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GARDEN   CROPS 
PRODUCTION    AND    PRESERVATION 


Fig.   i.     A  Wisconsin  home  garden  that  look  first  prize. 


GARDEN  CROPS 

PRODUCTION     AND     PRESERVATION 


By^ 

LESTER    S^IVINS 

Specialist  in  School  and  Home  Gardening,  Regional  Director  for  Central  States, 

United  States  Bureau  of  Education;  also  of  Department  of  Education,  Kent 

Ohio  State  Normal  College;  formerly  State  Supervisor  of  Agricultural 

Education  in  Ohio;  author  of  "Agriculture  in  the  Public  Schools,'1 

"Lessons  in  Agriculture,"  "Methods,  Aids,  and  Devices  in 

Teaching  Agriculture,"  "School  Garden  Practices  fin  the 

Elementary  Schools  of  the  United  States" 


RAND  McNALLY  &  COMPANY 

CHICAGO  NEW  YORK 


Copyright,  IQ19,  by 
Rand  McNally  &  Company 


To 

MY   FATHER   AND   MY   MOTHER 

Who  secured  the  maximum  production 

by    cultivating   every   inch    of  space   in 

the    old    home    garden    and    who    prevented 

waste  by  preserving  the  sur\ 


us 


THE  TABLE  OF  CONTENTS 

PAGE 

The  Preface 15 

SECTION  ONE.     THE    PRODUCTION    OF   GARDEN    CROPS 

CHAPTER 

I.     Selecting  the  Garden  Site .  21 

II.     Making  Garden  Plans 24 

III.  Companion  Crops 32 

IV.  Rotation  of  Garden  Crops .  35 

V.     Purchasing  Garden  Seed 37 

VI.  Economy  in  the  Use  of  Seeds     ......  39 

VII.     Varieties  of  Crops 41 

VIII.     Hints  on  Planting 43 

IX.     Draining  the  Garden 47 

X.     Preparing  the  Garden  Soil 50 

XI.  Commercial  Fertilizers  for  the  Garden        .      .  53 

XII.     Testing  Garden  Seed 56 

XIII.  The  Hotbed 59 

XIV.  The  Cold  Frame  and  Seed  Bed 62 

XV.  Planting  Dates  East  of  the  Mississippi         .      .  65 

XVI.  Planting  Dates  West  of  the  Mississippi        .      .  70 

XVII.     Thinning  and  Replanting  Plants 75 

XVIII.  Growing  and  Transplanting  Plants     ....  77 

XIX.     Tillage  and  the  Use  of  Tools 81 

XX.     Watering  the  Garden 86 

XXI.     Protecting  the  Garden  Products 90 

XXII.     Garden  Records 92 

XXIII.  Spraying  for  Insects  and  Plant  Diseases      .      .  95 

XXIV.  Protecting  Garden  Crops  from  Frost  ioi 
XXV.     Weeds  and  Weeding 103 

XXVI.     The  Gardener's  Friends 105 

XXVII.     Lettuce no 

7 


8 


THE  TABLE  OF  CONTENTS 


CHAPTER  PAGE 

XXVIII.  Radishes 113 

XXIX.  Peas 115 

XXX.  Onions 117 

XXXI.  Cabbage 120 

XXXII.  Cabbage  Enemies  and  Their  Control        .      .      .  122 

XXXIII.  Beets 126 

XXXIV.  Parsnips 128 

XXXV.  Carrots  and  Chervils 130 

XXXVI.  Turnips  and  Rutabagas 132 

XXXVII.  Irish  Potatoes 135 

XXXVIII.  Sweet  Potatoes 138 

XXXIX.  Peppers  and  Eggplants 140 

XL.  Tomatoes 143 

XLI.  Beans 147 

XLII.  Bean  Enemies  and  Their  Control 150 

XLIII.  Sweet  Corn  and  Pop  Corn 152 

XLIV.  Cucumbers 155 

XLV.  Melons 158 

XLVI.  Squashes — Vegetable  Marrows  —  Pumpkins  .      .  161 

XLVII.  Celery  and  Celeriac 166 

XLVIII.  Kale  and  Cauliflower 170 

XLIX.  COLLARDS    AND    BRUSSELS    SPROUTS 1 74 

L.  Kohl-Rabi  and  Okra 176 

LI.  Spring  Greens 170 

LII.  Spring  Salads       .           182 

LIII.  Greens  That  Endure  Heat 184 

LIV.  Salads  That  Endure  Heat 186 

LV.  Plants  Related  to  the  Onion 189 

LVI.  Root  Crops  That  Withstand  Winter  Freezing   .  191 

LVII.  Perennial  Crops 194 

LVIII.  Saving  Seed  for  Planting 198 

LIX.  Harvesting  Vegetable  Crops 201 

LX.  Marketing  Vegetable  Crops 205 

LXI.  Small  Fruits 210 

LXII.  Strawberries 212 


THE  TABLE  OF  CONTENTS  9 

CHAPTER  PAGE 

LXIII.     Blackberries  and  Raspberries 215 

LXIV.     Currants  and  Gooseberries  .      . 217 

LXV.     Grapes        219 

LXVI.     Harvesting  and  Marketing  Small  Fruits      .      .  221 

LXVII.     Useful  Plants  Used  for  Ornament      ....  224 

LXVIII.     Plants  to  Beautify  the  Yard  or  Garden      .      .  227 

LXIX.     Fall  Work  for  the  Spring  Garden      ....  232 

Projects  and  Problems 234 


SECTION    TWO.     THE    PRESERVATION   OF    GARDEN   CROPS 

LXX.     Why  and  How  We  Preserve  Foods      ....  249 

LXXI.     Canning:     One-Period  Cold-Pack  Method      .      .  252 

LXXII.     Preserving  and  Jelly  Making 261 

LXXIII.     Drying 264 

LXXIV.     Fermentation  and  Salting 269 

LXXV.     Storing  Vegetables 274 

LXXVI.     Storing  Vegetables  in  Cellars 276 

LXX VI I.     Storing  Vegetables  in  Pits 280 

LXXVIII.     Storing  Vegetables  in  Cold  Frames    ....  284 

LXXIX.     Storing  Vegetables  in  Cool  and  Warm  Rooms  286 

LXXX.     Saving  the  By-Products 287 

SECTION   THREE.     SUGGESTIONS   TO   TEACHERS 

Lesson  Assignments 291 

Chapters  for  Reference  and  Study 291 

Projects  and  Problems 291 

Study  Outline  at  End  of  Chapters 291 

Home  and  Community  Work 292 

Class  Room  and  Outdoor  Work 292 

Types  of  Gardens 294 

School  Exhibits  of  Garden  Crops 304 

Score  Cards 308 

Some  Suggestive  Forms 312 

The  Composition  of  Vegetables 320 


io  THE  TABLE  OF  CONTENTS 

PAGE 

Addresses  op  State  Experiment  Stations 321 

United  States  and  State  Publications  op  Interest  to 

Gardeners ?21 

Helppul  Books o2[- 

The  Index ~2- 


THE    ILLUSTRATIONS 
A  Wisconsin  home  garden  that  took  first  prize      ....  Frontispiece 

PAGE 

One  of  the  first   school   gardens   in  America.     Patterson   School, 

Dayton,  Ohio 20 

A  well-planned  garden 24 

A  gardener  who  has  the  right  idea  about  utilizing  garden  space   .  32 

Companion  cropping  in  practice 33 

A  white  grub  working  in  a  diseased  potato 36 

Fine  potatoes  grown  by  New  York  school  boys 37 

These  boys  are  not  planting  their  potatoes  by  chance   ....  44 

How  drainage  affects  the  root  growth  of  plants 48 

Filling  plant  containers  from  the  compost  heap 51 

A  hotbed  shielded  from  the  wind  by  willows 60 

A  zone  map  of  the  eastern  pait  of  the  United  States  based  on  the 

average  dates  of  the  latest  killing  frosts  in  the  spring  ....  67 
A  zone  map  of  the  eastern  part  of  the  United  States  based  on  the 

average  dates  of  the  first  killing  frost  in  the  fall 68 

Map  of  the  western  part  of  the  United  States,  showing  the  average 

dates  of  the  last  killing  frost  in  the  spring 7 1 

Map  of  the  western  part  of  the  United  States,  showing  the  average 

dates  of  the  first  killing  frost  in  the  fall 73 

Seedlings  ready  to  be  transplanted  to  other  containers  ....  78 
A  frosty  evening  in  early  spring;  protecting  newly  transplanted 

tomato  plants  from  the  frost 79 

Tools  every  gardener  needs 82 

A  Minnesota  lad  and  his  tractor  cultivator 83 

Cultivating  a  garden  with  a  wheel  hoe 84 

Watering  sweet  corn  with  garden  hose  and  trench  system  ...  87 
A  garden  in  Dayton,  Ohio,  watered  by  the  overhead  sprinkling 

system 88 

The  result  of  using  a  mole  trap 9° 

The  record  book  and  the  market  reports 93 

Learning  how  to  keep  a  garden  record 94 

11 


12  THE   INDEX 


PAGE 


Enemy  insects  and  a  sprayer  which  will  help  the  gardener  to  destroy 

these  enemies 96 

Armed  for  battle ;  a  practical  lesson  in  spraying 97 

Spraying  tomato  plants  to  prevent  diseases 99 

Two  insects,  a  friend  and  an  enemy 106 

A  bird  bath  and  a  feed  shelf 107 

A  feeding  shelf  for  birds 108 

A  field  of  fine  lettuce no 

A  splendid  example  of  head  lettuce in 

Scarlet  Globe  radishes 113 

Spring  onions Il8 

A  sure  way  of  protecting  tomato  plants  from  cutworms        .      .      .  122 

A  lesson  in  natural  history  in  the  home  garden 123 

The  destructive  work  of  cabbage  worms 134 

Crosby's  Egyptian  beet 126 

Parsnips I29 

Carrots 130 

Turnips - 132 

Sweet  potatoes •  139 

Green  peppers 140 

Eggplant I41 

Tomatoes 143 

The  gardener  who  trains  his  tomatoes  to  stakes  finds  it  easier  to 

cultivate,  spray,  and  harvest  his  crop 144 

Green  or  snap  beans 148 

Golden  Bantam  seed  corn 152 

Cucumbers 156 

A  watermelon  of  the  Tom  Watson  variety 158 

Ohio  Sugar  muskmelons 1 59 

A  good  summer  squash,  the  "Patty  Pan" 161 

Summer  squashes  grown  by  school  children  of  the  fitst  grade   .      .  162 

"Some  pumpkins"  grown  by  a  Gary,  Indiana,  girl 164 

A  stalk  of  celery 166 

Blanching  celery  with  tile 167 

Blanching  celery  by  means  of  paper 168 

Blanching  celery  with  earth 168 


THE   INDEX  13 

PAGE 

Kale 170 

A  fine  stand  of  kale 171 

A  cauliflower  plant  tied  up  for  blanching 172 

A  fine  example  of  Snowball  cauliflower 173 

Kohl-rabi 176 

Okra  blossom  and  pod 177 

A  spinach  plant 179 

Mustard  and  kale  grown  for  greens 181 

Parsley 186 

Chives 19° 

Salsify,  or  vegetable  oyster 191 

Asparagus  bunched  for  market 195 

A  bunch  of  rhubarb  stalks 196 

Harvest  day  at  a  school  for  the  blind,  Cleveland,  Ohio   ....  203 

A  home  market  on  the  highway 205 

A  co-operative  school  market,  Richmond,  Indiana 206 

The  Richmond  school  market  open  and  ready  for  business  .      .      .  207 
A  flourishing  strawberry  patch  and  a  sample  of  the  fruit  being  mar- 
keted from  it 213 

Pole  lima  beans  furnishing  a  luxuriant  screen  for  the  back  yard  fence  225 

A  flower-bordered  vegetable  garden 227 

A  moon  vine  covering  the  garden  fence 228 

Starting  ornamental  plants  in  egg  shells  in  a  window  garden   .      .  229 

A  school  room  class  at  work  testing  seeds  for  purity        .      .      .      .  235 

Second  grade  pupils  learning  how  to  propagate  plants     ....  244 

Drying  sweet  corn  in  the  open  air 248 

Galvanized  pail  and  wooden  rack;  an  inexpensive  equipment  for 

canning 253 

One  process  in  canning:   blanching  vegetables  in  boiling  water   .  254 

Members  of  a  boys'  class  grading  beans  for  canning 256 

Two  members  of  a  canning  class  sealing  jars 256 

Sealing  jars  of  fruit  canned  by  the  one-period-cold-pack  method   .  257 
Teacher  placing  rack  in  the  wash  boiler  and  pupil  ready  to  place 

filled  jars  in  the  boiler 259 

Eight  varieties  of  vegetables  successfully  canned  by  the  one-period- 
cold-pack  method 260 


14  THE    INDEX 

PAGE 

A  jelly  strainer 262 

Drying  apples  on  a  wire  screen  exposed  to  the  sun  and  air   .      .      .  265 

Preserving  the  surplus  bean  supply  by  drying 266 

A  home  made  drier  constructed  of  lath  and  wire  netting       .      .      .  267 

Two  devices  for  drying 268 

A  cross  section  of  a  storage  pit  showing  the  arrangement  of  ven- 
tilating flue,  potatoes,  straw,  and  earth 281 

An  exhibit  of  home  garden  crops,  Milwaukee 290 

Teacher  and  pupils  at  work  in  a  school  garden 292 

Teaching  pupils  how  to  garden  in  a  school  garden,  Washington 

City 293 

At  the  end  of  a  lesson  in  school  gardening,  the  pupils  are  putting 

the  paths  in  order 294 

A  large  tract  or  community  garden  for  girls 295 

A  boy's  garden,  Cincinnati 296 

Scattering  lime  on  a  large  tract  garden 297 

Supervisors,  teachers,  and  gardeners,  Union  Tract,  Cleveland   .    298-299 
A  large  tract  garden  with  an  unusually  fine  location   .      .      .   300-301 

A  section  of  a  seven-acre  school  garden 303 

Among  school  garden  exhibits  this  one  of  Portland,  Oregon,  stands 

almost  unrivaled 304 

An  exhibit  of  vegetables,  Columbus  and  Cincinnati  school  gardens, 

at  an  Ohio  State  Fair 305 

An  excellent  exhibit  of  vegetables  displayed  by  the  garden  class  of 

Lincoln  Agricultural  School,  New  York 307 


THE   PREFACE 

Gardening  has  been  taught  for  years  in  European  schools 
with  great  success.  The  subject  is  fast  finding  a  place  in  the 
course  of  study  of  many  of  the  best  schools  of  America.  Its 
introduction  is  due  largely  to  the  following  influences: 

School  officials  are  tending  more  and  more  to  include  in  the 
courses  of  study  such  subjects  as  will  afford  children  a  better 
opportunity  to  prepare  themselves  for  a  well-rounded  life.  School 
patrons  are  asking  that  the  schools  be  made  more  democratic  by 
offering  practical  work  in  which  the  relations  of  cause  and  effect 
are  more  apparent  and  results  more  evident.  The  children  them- 
selves find  more  enjoyment  in  studying  a  subject  that  requires 
both  indoor  and  outdoor  work,  which  at  the  same  time  enables 
them  to  make  some  contribution  to  their  own  support  and  in- 
directly to  the  wealth  of  the  nation.  Community  leaders  are 
beginning  to  appreciate  the  great  civic,  hygienic,  economic,  and 
educational  values  that  results  from  children  having  gardens 
and  being  taught  the  principles  of  gardening.  These  leaders 
point  out  that  under  these  conditions  part  of  the  products  are 
consumed  where  they  are  produced  and  while  they  are  fresh, 
avoiding  cost  of  transportation  and  handling  or  loss  from 
deterioration  in  the  market,  while  the  part  that  is  not  consumed 
when  fresh  is  saved  by  canning,  preserving,  drying,  salting,  and 
storing. 

This  volume  is  intended  chiefly  as  a  textbook  for  schools 
below  the  tenth  grade.  It  is  believed,  however,  that  senior 
high  schools  or  special  voactional  departments  desiring  a  less 
advanced  course  in  gardening  than  is  offered  in  the  more  difficult 
books  will  find  this  text  useful.  It  is  also  hoped  that  individual 
gardeners,   members   of   reading   or   study   circles,    or   any   one 

15 


16  THE   PREFACE 

pursuing  home-reading  courses  will  find  it  of  value.  The  author 
has  endeavored  to  make  the  subject  matter  definite,  and  to 
present  it  clearly  in  order  that  it  may  be  easily  understood  by 
children  as  well  as  adults. 

If  this  book  enables  the  pupil  to  obtain  a  clearer  under- 
standing of  the  principles  involved  in  producing  and  preserving 
garden  crops  a  great  step  will  have  been  made  toward  encouraging 
these  industries  in  the  home.  It  is  evident  that  when  children 
understand  how  the  home  grounds  or  lands  in  their  community 
may  serve  to  advantage  as  a  laboratory  in  which  they  may  apply 
the  knowledge  they  have  gained  at  school,  that  this  will  result 
in  bringing  the  school  in  to  closer  touch  with  the  home  life. 

The  text  is  divided  into  three  sections.  Section  One  discusses 
the  production  of  all  the  most  important  garden  crops  grown  in 
the  United  States  and  presents  problems  and  projects  for  class 
room  and  outdoor  work. 

Section  Two  tells  how  all  the  crops  treated  in  Section  One 
may  be  preserved  and  stored.  Outlines  for  study  and  for  home 
and  community  work  are  included  in  most  of  the  chapters  in  the 
first  two  sections. 

In  Section  Three  under  "Suggestions  to  Teachers,"  the 
teacher  will  not  only  find  help  in  preparing  a  course  of  study 
in  Gardening,  but  also  practical  hints  that  will  be  useful  through- 
out the  entire  course  in  the  teaching  of  the  subject. 

This  book  may  be  used  satisfactorily  in  all  parts  of  the 
United  States,  especially  if  experienced  gardeners  are  consulted 
in  connection  with  the  study  of  Chapters  XV  and  XVI  which 
treat  of  the  dates  or  time  for  planting  in  all  sections  of  the 
country,'  and  Chapter  VII  on  "Varieties  of  Crops." 

Lester  S.  Ivins. 


THE    ACKNOWLEDGMENTS 

In  the  preparation  of  this  book  many  sources  of  information  have 
been  consulted  and  I  hereby  express  my  gratitude  to  all  whose  writings 
have  been  of  assistance.  For  careful  reading  and  criticism  of  the 
entire  manuscript  I  acknowledge  my  special  obligation  to  Mr.  L.  M. 
Montgomery,  Professor  of  Vegetable  Gardening  in  the  Agricultural 
College  of  Ohio  State  University,  and  to  Mr.  Frank  W.  Miller,  Superin- 
tendent of  Schools,  of  Dayton,  Ohio,  formerly  Ohio  State  Superintendent 
of  Public  Instruction. 

I  am  also  indebted  to  the  several  state  departments  of  education, 
agricultural  colleges,  and  experiment  stations  that  furnished  me  their 
latest  publications  on  gardening  and  many  photographs  for  reproduction; 
to  the  United  States  Department  of  Agriculture  for  bulletins,  maps,  and 
photographs  furnished;  to  former  college  and  university  students  who 
reported  results  of  recent  studies  and  investigations  on  the  production 
and  preservation  of  garden  crops;  to  garden  teachers  and  garden  super- 
visors throughout  the  country  for  the  helpful  suggestions  they  have 
offered  me,  and  for  reports  and  photographs  they  have  been  kind  enough 
to  furnish;  to  thousands  of  children  with  whom  I  have  had  the  pleasure 
of  working  in  order  to  learn  at  first  hand  the  kind  of  subject  matter 
needed  as  well  as  the  best  methods  for  teaching  gardening;  to  Franklin 
K.  Lane,  Secretary  of  the  Interior, -and  P.  P.  Claxton,  United  States 
Commissioner  of  Education,  who  have  pointed  out  to  me  clearly  and 
definitely  the  need  of  instruction  in  gardening  in  the  schools;  to  my 
co-workers  in  the  Garden  Division  of  the  Bureau  of  Education,  J.  H. 
Francis,  General  Director;  Cyril  Stebbins,  John  L.  Randall,  Clarence 
M.  Weed,  and  Frederick  A.  Merrill,  Regional  Directors,  for  the  sug- 
gestions I  have  received  as  the  result  of  conferences  with  these  men  in 
the  Bureau  of  Education  at  Washington;  to  President  John  E.  McGilvrey 
of  Kent  Ohio  State  Normal  College,  who  has  given  me  an  opportunity 
to  try  out  many  of  my  plans  while  teaching  with  him;  to  John  W. 
Withers,  Superintendent  of  City  Schools  of  St.  Louis,  who  as  a  former 
teacher  of  mine  thoroughly  convinced  me  that  it  requires  years  of  study 
upon  any  subject  to  get  the  most  out  of  it;  to  F.  B.  Dyer,  who  while 
superintendent  of  schools  at  Cincinnati  gave  me  much  encouragement 
in  my  work  of  promoting  greater  interest  in  the  teaching  of  Gardening 
and  Agriculture;  to  Elizabeth  Ivins,  my  wife,  who  prepared  most  of  the 
matter  in  Section  Two,  assisted  in  the  preparation  of  Section  One,  and 
gave  the  entire  manuscript  a  critical  reading. 

2  i7 


SECTION   ONE 
SUGGESTIONS   TO   TEACHERS 


Fig.  2.     One  of  the  first  school  gardens  in  America.     Patterson  School, 

Dayton,  Ohio. 


■ '  < , 


GARDEN    CROPS 

CHAPTER   I 
SELECTING   THE   GARDEN    SITE 

The  selection  of  a  proper  location  for  the  garden  is  an 
important  matter.  It  sometimes  happens  that  the  gardener 
has  but  one  available  site.  In  that  case  the  space  should 
be  used,  if  it  is  at  all  suitable  for  vegetable  or  fruit  crops. 

Where  a  home  has  considerable  ground  connected  with 
it  from  which  a  site  may  be  selected,  there  are  certain  things 
that  should  be  taken  into  account  before  marking  off  the 
garden.  Two  of  these  considerations  are  the  soil  and  the 
location. 

Soil.  We  have  found  by  experience  that  most  of  our 
vegetables  and  fruit  crops  can  be  grown  on  many  different 
types  of  soil.  This  fact  should  encourage  every  one  to  try 
to. produce  a  sufficient  supply  of  vegetables  and  fruits  for 
the  entire  year. 

Even  though  garden  and  fruit  crops  may  be  successfully 
grown  in  many  different  varieties  of  soil,  when  there  is  op- 
portunity for  selection  some  gardeners  prefer  one  type 
to  another.  If  part  of  the  land  that  may  be  used  is 
somewhat  sandy  it  should  be  selected  for  the  garden.  The 
reason  for  this  is  that  sandy  soils  dry  out  earlier  in  the 
spring;  therefore  they  become  warm  and  can  be  worked 
earlier  than  clay  and  many  other  kinds  of  soil.  Since  sandy 
soil  can  be  worked  earlier  and  is  warmer,  we  are  able  to 


flMKNT  WEARY 
N.  C  State  Collof 


22  GARDEN   CROPS 

produce  earlier  crops  on  this  type  of  soil.  At  the  same  time, 
soils  that  contain  a  considerable  amount  of  sand  require 
less  effort  to  put  them  in  proper  condition  for  planting. 
Such  soils  respond  readily  to  applications  of  fertilizers,  can 
be  tilled  soon  after  a  rain,  and  are  not  injured  by  the  tramp- 
ing that  is  necessary  in  harvesting  crops  while  the  soil  is 
wet.  Yet  if  soils  contain  too  much  sand,  unless  some  artificial 
method  of  supplying  water  is  provided,  the  crop  may  be 
injured  from  lack  of  moisture  during  the  dry  season. 

If  the  only  available  garden  space  is  of  a  clayey  nature 
the  ground  may  be  improved  by  the  use  of  lime,  stable  and 
commercial  fertilizers,  or  green  crops  that  supply  humus. 
If  clayey  or  heavy  soils  are  wet  they  can  be  improved  by 
tile  drainage.  These  different  methods  of  improving  the 
soil  will  be  discussed  in  later  chapters. 

Location.  If  possible  select  a  gentle  southern  slope. 
This  location  will  give  the  garden  the  most  direct  exposure 
to  sunshine,  afford  natural  drainage,  and  protect  it  from 
cold  north  winds.  These  conditions  are  especially  favorable 
for  an  early  garden.  The  garden  site  should  be  in  an  open 
place,  that  is,  it  should  be  free  from  trees  which  would  shade 
the  plants  and  also  deprive  them  of  plant  food  and  moisture. 
The  site  should  be  as  near  the  home  as  possible  (Fig.  i). 
This  will  permit  the  gardener  to  use  many  odd  moments  in 
his  garden.  It  will  also  make  watering  an  easier  task  if 
garden  hose  is  used  and  water  plugs  are  available  on  or  near 
the  house.  A  site  so  located  that  it  is  protected  from 
chickens  and  dogs  is  also  to  be  preferred.  If  the  gardener 
has  the  choice  of  several  sites  he  should  select  the  one  most 
attractive  to  the  eye,  provided  it  possesses  all  the  other 
requirements. 


SELECTING   THE   GARDEN   SITE  23 

When  a  late  garden  is  desired  the  location  selected  should 
be  low  and  flat  with  rich  soil,  which  will  be  more  likely  to 
afford  ample  moisture  during  a  dry  season. 

We  learn  to  garden  by  gardening.  For  this  reason  select 
the  best  site  available  and  then  improve  it  as  rapidly  as 
possible.  This  may  require  study  but  the  effort  is  always 
worth  while. 

STUDY    OUTLINE 

1.  What  are  two  important  points  to  consider  in  the  selection  of  a 
garden  site? 

2.  What  kind  of  soil  is  especially  good  for  a  garden? 

3.  Give  five  advantages  of  a  garden  site  that  contains  a  considerable 
amount  of  sand. 

4.  Name  four  ways  in  which  a  clay  soil  can  be  made  better  for  a  garden 
site. 

5.  State  three  advantages  of  a  southern  slope  for  a  garden  site. 

6.  Name  four  points  that  should  be  considered  in  securing  a  proper 
location  for  a  garden  site. 

7.  Name  two  points  to  consider  in  selecting  a  site  for  a  late  garden. 

HOME     AND     COMMUNITY    WORK 

Visit  two  or  three  garden  sites  near  your  home  and  be  prepared  to 
discuss  the  following  with  regard  to  each: 

1.  Kind  of  soil. 

2.  What,  if  anything,  has  been  done  by  the  owner  to  improve  the 
site? 

3.  Is  the  site  shaded  by  trees? 

4.  In  what  direction  does  the  ground  slope? 

5.  Has  the  site  any  means  of  protection  from  dogs,  chickens,  or  other 
agents  of  destruction? 


CHAPTER    II 
MAKING    GARDEN   PLANS 

I.     ONE-CROP  PLAN 

Garden  crops  dependent  upon  site  and  plan.  When 
people  are  considering  building  a  home  or  factory  the  plans 
for  the  building  should  be  taken  up  after  the  site  is  selected. 
These  plans  must  be  made  to  meet  the  special  conditions  or 
requirements,  as  well  as  the    taste  of   the  persons  who  are 


Fig.  3.     A  well-planned  garden.     Here  the  crops  are  planted  in  rows 

eight   inches   apart    and  the   rows   are   marked   to   show  just 

where  each  crop   and   each  variety  has  been  planted. 

24 


wmnm  LIBRARY 
K  C.  State  CMeH 


MAKING   GARDEN    PLANS 


25 


to  live  in  the  home  or  to  operate  the  factory.  After  a  boy 
or  girl  has  chosen  the  location  for  a  garden  according  to 
suggestions  received  from  his  teacher,  the  garden  super- 
visor, or  his  parents,  the  next  thing  is  to  plan  the  garden 
so  that  the  greatest  possible  amount  of  produce  may  be 
grown  upon  the  area  selected. 

Advantages  of  planting  in  rows.  Making  garden  plans 
is  an  interesting  school  exercise.  It  will  teach  the  child  to 
approach  a  problem  in  a  scientific  manner.  When  planning 
a  garden  remember  that  it  is  better  to  plant  in  straight  rows 
(Fig.  3)  than  in  odd-sized  beds  or  patches.  Planting  in 
rows  permits  the  gardener  to  cultivate  the  crops  more 
easily  and  much  more  thoroughly.  In  large  garden  areas 
it  also  makes  possible  the  use  of  horse-drawn  implements. 

1.     Vegetable  Gardens:   One-Crop  Plan 
A.     Size:   15  ft.  x  20  ft.  B.     Size:  20  ft.  x  30  ft. 


Inches 


Crops 


Rows 


Inches 


Crops 


Rows 


Beans,  early  dwarf 

Beans,  early  dwarf 

Beans,  early  dwarf 

Beans,  early  dwarf 

Onion  sets 

Onion  sets 

Lettuce  (from  seed) 

Lettuce  (from  seed) 

Beets,  early  (with  rad.)1  .  .  . 
Beets,  early  (with  rad.)1.  .  . 
Lettuce  (plants  if  possible) . 
Carrots,  early  (with  rad.)1  . 

Parsnips  (with  rad.)1 

Turnips,  early 

Turnips,  early 

Peas,  early 

Peas,  early 

Tomatoes 


2 
3 
4 
5 
6 

7 
8 

9 

10 
1  i 
12 
13 
'4 
1  5 
[6 

17 

fence 


1  Rows  marked  with  radishes.  Early 
[button  radishes  are  most  suitable]  for 
this  purpose. 


Beans,  early  dwarf 

Beans,  early  dwarf 

Beans,      ,,         ,,    (2  wks 

Beans,  late  dwarf 

Onion  sets 

Onion  sets 

Parsnips  (with  rad.)1 

Parsnips  (with  rad.)1 

Beets,  early  (with  rad.)1.  . 
Beets,  later  (with  rad.)1. .  . 
Lettuce  (plants  if  possible) 
Lettuce  (2  weeks  later) .  .  . 

Spinach 

Peas,  early 

Peas,  early 

Peas  (2  weeks  later) 

Peas,  late 

Turnips,  early 

Tomatoes,  early 

Tomatoes,  early 

Tomatoes,  late 

Peppers 


later) 


IWrt 


55 


26  GARDEN    CROPS 

The  use  of  the  wheel  hoe  or  horse-drawn  cultivator  keeps 
the  soil  in  better  condition  than  the  hand  hoe  alone. 

The  arrangement  shown  in  the  preceding  table  will  be 
useful  in  planning  a  garden  where  the  space  for  growing 
vegetables  is  very  limited.  The  figures  at  the  left  in  both 
plans  indicate  the  distance  in  inches  the  rows  are  apart; 
the  figures  at  the  right  indicate  the  number  of  the  row.  A 
record  should  be  made  of  the  crop  and  variety  planted  in 
each  row.  In  the  smaller  garden  tomatoes  may  be  grown 
along  the  fence. 

II.     A   SUCCESSION    OF   GARDEN    CROPS 
Succession   cropping.     When   gardens   are   planned   and 
planted  so  that  early  crops  are  followed  by  later  ones  in 

2.     Vegetable  Gardens:    Double-Crop  Plan 

A.     Size:   25  ft.  x  30  ft. 
Flowers  or  a  vine  crop  Fence 


Inches       First  Crop  SEASON'S   CROPS  Second  Crop 


Rows 


12 
12 
12 

12 
18 
12 
18 
24 

24 
12 
12 
12 
12 
12 
12 
12 
18 
18 
18 
18 


Onion  sets tomatoes 

Onion  sets 

Beets,  early tomatoes 

Beets,  early 

Lettuce,  early tomatoes 

Carrots winter  radishes 

Peas,  early celery 

Peas,  early » celery 

Peas,  early celery 

Beans,  dwarf parsnips 

Beans,  dwarf parsnips 

Beans,  early  string : turnips 

Beans,  early  string turnips 

Beans,  early  string turnips 

Radishes  or  spinach late  cabbage  .  . . 

Radishes  or  spinach 

Radishes  or  parsley late  cabbage 

Potatoes,  early navy  beans 

Potatoes,  early navy  beans  ...... 

Potatoes,  earlv navy  beans 


2 
3 
4 
5 
6 

7 
8 

9 
10 

12 

13 
14 
15 
16 

17 
18 

19 
20 


MAKING   GARDEN   PLANS 


27 


succession  the  system  is  called  succession  cropping.  By  care- 
fully planning  the  varieties  of  vegetables  and  their  planting 
time  the  succession  of  crops  will  be  almost  unbroken  and 
the  supply  of  vegetables  ample  and  continuous  throughout 
the  season.  Plans  A  and  B  of  table  2  illustrate  a  double- 
2.     Vegetable  Gardens:  Double-Crop  Plan 

B.     Size:   50  f t.  x  60  ft. 
Flowers  or  a  vine  crop  Fence 


Inches        First  Crop 


SEASON'S  CROPS 


Second  Crop 


Rows 


18 
18 
18 
18 
18 
18 
18 
24 
24 
24 
18 


30 
30 
30 
30 
30 
18 
18 
24 
24 
24 
12 
12 
18 


Onion  sets sweet  corn 

Onion  sets 

Lettuce sweet  corn 

Beets,  early 

Beets,  early sweet  corn 

Peas,  early 

Peas,  early sweet  corn 

Bean^,  bush 

Beans,  bush late  cabbage 

Beans,  bush 

Carrots,  early late  cabbage 

Carrots,  early 

Radishes late  cabbage 

Potatoes,  early winter  radishes. 

Potatoes,  early turnips 

Potatoes,  early turnips 

Potatoes,  early turnips 

Potatoes,  early ^turnips 

Spinach tomatoes 

Spinach 

Spinach tomatoes 

Parsley 

Turnips,  early lima  beans,  pole. 

Turnips,  early 

Turnips,  early lima  beans,  pole. 

Onions  from  seed 


3 
4 
5 
6 

7 
8 

9 
10 
11 
12 
13 
14 
15 
16 

l7 

18 

19 
20 

21 
22 
23 
24 
25 
26 


PERMANENT  CROPS 


48 


Asparagus  bed 


Rhubarb 


Winter  onions 


crop  system,  that  is,  where  an  early  crop  is  to  be  followed 
by  one  late  crop. 
In  the  southern  part  of  the  United  States  this  plan  could 


28  GARDEN    CROPS 

be  modified  and  three  or  four  crops  a  year  eould  be  grown. 
The  practice  of  planting  the  same  vegetables  at  intervals 
of  ten  days  or  two  weeks  to  make  a  long  succession,  further 
illustrates  succession  cropping. 

A  much  larger  production  can  be  secured  from  a  given 
space  by  succession  cropping  than  by  following  the  single- 
crop  plan. 

As  in  the  first  table,  the  figures  on  the  left  in  both  plans 
indicate  the  distance  in  inches  the  rows  are  apart,  and  the 
figures  at  the  right  the  number  of  the  rows. 

Gardens  of  the  larger  size  permit  greater  space  between 
the  rows  and  therefore  easier  cultivation. 

Turnips  do  not  require  rows  but  may  be  sown  broadcast. 

Plan  B  illustrates  the  proper  location  of  three  permanent 
crops,  asparagus,  winter  onions  (multipliers),  and  rhubarb, 
and  also  shows  succession  crops  (page  27). 

Always  keep  your  garden  plans  for  reference  throughout 
the  season.  You  may  forget  the  crop  or  variety  planted  in 
certain  rows  or  sections  of  the  garden. 

It  is  impossible  to  show  by  diagram  in  the  few  pages 
available  all  possible  combinations  for  succession  planting. 
For  this  reason  we  give  below  two  lists  of  crops,  showing 
early  crops  which  may  be  followed  by  others  and  late  crops 
which  may  follow  others.  By  having  these  lists  at  hand 
the  gardener  may  arrange  the  crops  for  succession  crop- 
ping in  any  combination  that  he  desires. 

Early  crops  which  may  be  followed  by  others : 

Bush  beans  Carrots  Peas  Spinach 

Early  beets  Early  corn         Early  potatoes         Turnips 

Early  cabbage         Lettuce  Radishes 


MAKING   GARDEN    PLANS  29 

Late  crops  which  may  follow  others: 

Late  beets  Cauliflower  Kale  Turnips 

Brussels  sprouts  Celery  Peas 

Late  cabbage  Sweet  corn  Spinach 

Other  vegetables  may  be  planted  at  frequent  intervals 
during  the  summer,  thus  furnishing  a  continuous  supply  of 
vegetables  throughout  the  growing  season.  The  following 
is  a  list  of  some  garden  crops  which  may  be  planted  at 
intervals  of  ten  days. 
Crops  which  may  be  planted  at  ten-day  intervals: 

Lettuce  Dwarf  beans  Spinach  Early  beets 

Peas  Early  turnips  Radishes  Early  corn 

III.  VEGETABLES  AND  SMALL  FRUITS  FOR  THE  GARDEN 

Garden  fruits.  Small  fruits  should,  like  vegetables,  be 
planted  in  rows  so  they  may  be  cultivated  easily.  If  the 
garden  space  is  limited,  some  small  fruits  may  be  planted 
along  the  fence. 

In  table  3  the  small  fruits,  including  strawberries,  black- 
berries, raspberries,  currants,  gooseberries,  and  grapes,  are 
placed  on  one  side  while  the  most  common  vegetable  peren- 
nials or  permanent  crops,  including  asparagus,  winter 
onions,  rhubarb,   and  horse-radish,   are  on  the  other  side. 

The  figures  at  the  left  indicate  the  distance  in  inches  the 
rows  are  apart;  the  figures  on  the  right  the  number  of  the 
row.  The  number  of  rows  of  both  vegetables  and  small 
fruits  may  be  increased  or  decreased  in  proportion  to  the 
size  of  the  available  site. 

Where  quarter-acre  plots,  or  larger,  are  available  for  gar- 
den sites  the  distance  between  the  rows  may  be  increased 


30 


GARDEN   CROPS 


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MAKING   GARDEN    PLANS  31 

if  desired.  If  this  is  done  horse-drawn  implements  may  be 
used  to  greater  advantage  in  cultivating.  The  larger  garden 
sites  afford  opportunity  for  planting  a  greater  variety  of 
garden  crops  and  also  make  possible  a  better  system  of 
succession  and  companion  cropping. 

STUDY    OUTLINE 

1.  State  the  next  important  step  after  the  selection  of  the  garden  site. 

2.  Why  is  it  better  to  plant  in  rows  rather  than  in  beds  or  patches? 

3.  What  is  meant  by  succession  crops? 

4.  Is  the  succession-crop  plan  better  than  the  one-crop  plan?     Give 
your  reason. 

5.  Name  ten  crops  that  can  be  followed  by  other  crops. 

6.  Name  ten  crops  that  may  follow  other  crops. 

7.  Name  five  crops  that  can  be  planted  at  ten-day  intervals  to  secure 
a  continuous  supply  of  vegetables. 

8.  Is  it  an  advantage  to  keep  the  garden  plans  throughout  the  season? 
State  reasons. 

9.  Name  six  small  fruits  that  may  be  included  in  a  home  garden. 
10.  Name  four  perennials  or  permanent  crops  that  may  be  included 

in  a  home  garden. 

HOME    AND    COMMUNITY    WORK 

1.  Visit  two  neighbors  and  draw  plans  of  their  gardens. 

2.  Tell  the  arrangements  each  has  made  for  succession  planting. 

3.  What  crops  do  they  grow  that  may  well  be  planted  at  ten-day 
intervals? 

4.  Name  four  of  their  crops  that  might  be  followed  by  later  ones. 

5.  Were  there  any  small  fruits  in  their  gardens?     If  so,  name  them. 

6.  What  perennials  were  included  in  their  gardens? 

7.  What  crops  were  planted  in  rows? 

8.  If  there  were  any  crops  planted  in  beds  or  patches,  tell  what  they 
were. 


CHAPTER   III 
COMPANION    CROPS 

Growing  two  or  more  crops  together  at  the  same  time  on 
the  same  land  is  called  companion  cropping.  This  method 
of  gardening  is  followed  in  order  that  all  garden  space  may 
be  utilized  throughout  the  growing  season. 

How  to  utilize  garden  space.  Some  common  examples 
of  utilizing  garden  space  by  companion  cropping  are  the 
following : 

i.  Slow  growing  plants  such  as  melons,  cabbages,  and 
cauliflower,  occupy  only  a  small  space  for  several  weeks  after 


Fig.  4.     .4  gardener  who  has  the  right  idea.      This  seven-year-old  boy 
is  wasting  no  space  in  his  garden.    Notice  its  flourishing  condition. 

planting.     Therefore  a  few  rows  of  early  radishes,  lettuce, 
or  turnips  may  be  grown  between  the  hills  or  rows. 

32 


COMPANION   CROPS 


33 


2.  The  plan  of  marking  rows  of  beets,  parsnips,  or  carrots 
with   radishes    or  lettuce,    as   already   suggested   (table    i, 


Fig.  5.     Companion  cropping  in  practice.     In  this  garden  spinach  is 

seen  growing  in  rows  between  peas  and  carrots,  leaf  lettuce  between 

carrots  and  beets,  onions  between  beets  and  parsnips. 

page  25),  is  a  common  example  of  companion  cropping. 
For  this  purpose  the  early  button  radishes  should  be  used. 
They  come  up  quickly  and  make  possible  the  early  culti- 
vation of  the  companion  crop. 

3.  Many  gardeners  set  lettuce  plants  between  rows  of 
early  potatoes,  tomatoes,  or  corn;  spinach  between  rows  of 
peas  and  carrots;  onion  sets  between  beets  and  parsnips, 
and  leaf  lettuce  between  rows  of  carrots  and  beets  (Fig.   5). 

4.  If  pole  beans  are  planted  in  the  hills  with  sweet  corn 
3 


34  GARDEN    CROPS 

or  field  corn  or  near  single  sunflower  plants,  the  stalks  will 
furnish  support  for  the  bean  vine. 

5.  Pumpkins  may  be  planted  in  the  corn  rows,  especially 
in  large  gardens. 

6.  When  melon  or  cucumber  hills  are  eight  feet  apart  each 
way,  plant  two  or  three  rows  of  early  bunch  beans  between 
the  rows  or  hills.  Pick  the  beans  as  soon  as  they  are  ready 
for  table  use  and  then  pull  up  the  stalks. 

7.  As  soon  as  early  potatoes  begin  to  reach  maturity  and 
the  vines  show  signs  of  turning  brown,  plant  an  early  variety 
of  sweet  corn,  or  sow  turnip  seed  between  the  potato  rows. 

STUDY    OUTLINE 

1.  What  is  companion  cropping?  Tell  the  advantages  of  this  method 
of  gardening. 

2.  Name  ten  examples  of  companion  cropping. 

HOME    AND    COMMUNITY    WORK 

1.  Have  you  made  plans  for  companion  cropping  in  your  home 
garden?     If  so,  explain  them. 

2.  Visit  two  gardens  in  the  neighborhood  and  make  an  outline  plan  of 
each.     If  companion  cropping  is  followed  indicate  the  crops. 


CHAPTER   IV 
ROTATION    OF   GARDEN   CROPS 

Growing  different  garden  crops  on  the  same  ground  in 
successive  years  so  that  the  crops  follow  one  another  in 
regular  order  is  called  crop  rotation.  A  rotation  in  which 
corn  is  planted  the  first  year,  potatoes  the  second  year,  and 
some  crop  of  the  clover  family  the  third  year,  is  known  as  a 
three-year  rotation.  Many  gardeners  make  the  mistake  of 
planting  the  same  crop  year  after  year  in  exactly  the  same 
spot  and  then  wonder  why  the  yield  is  poor  or  their  soil  less 
productive  than  it  once  was. 

Advantages  of  crop  rotation.  Experienced  gardeners  have 
found  that  the  following  are  some  of  the  advantages  of  crop 
rotation : 

i.  Potato  scab  is  eliminated  by  changing  potatoes  to  a 
new  location  in  the  garden  (Fig.  6). 

2.  Club  root,  a  disease  to  which  cabbages  are  subject, 
may  be  avoided  by  planting  cabbages  in  a  different  part  of 
the  garden  and  putting  something  else  in  their  place. 

3.  Rotation  makes  it  possible  to  take  plant  food  from 
different  soil  depths.  Potatoes,  onions,  and  beets  secure 
nourishment  from  the  first  six  inches  of  the  soil.  When 
these  crops  are  followed  by  sweet  corn  the  plant  food  is 
secured  from  a  greater  depth  because  corn  roots  are  longer. 

4.  Rotation  results  in  better  crops  (Fig.  7). 

5.  By  rotating  crops  a  greater  variety  of  vegetables  is 
produced  and  labor  is  distributed  throughout  the  year, 

35 


36 


GARDEN    CROPS 


6.  If  we  grow  only  one  crop  the  ground  will  be  bare  part 
of  the  year,  while  a  variety  of  crops  keeps  the  soil  covered 
for  a  longer  period. 

7.  Weeds  which  prove  very  troublesome  to  some  garden 

crops,  such  as  onions, 
may  be  entirely  elimi- 
nated from  the  gar- 
den if  the  same  space 
is  planted  with  sweet 
corn  and  then  more 
thoroughly  cultivated. 

8.  Generally  speak- 
ing, it  is  well  to  select 
now  and  then  a  new 
location  for  the  entire 
garden  if  space  is 
available.  By  so 
doing  many  plant  diseases  and  insect  pests  will  disappear. 


Fig.  6.     A  white  grub  working  in  a  dis- 
eased potato.     Crop  rotation  might 
have  saved  this  potato. 


STUDY    OUTLINE 

: .  What  is  meant  by  rotation  of  crops? 
2.  Name  five  advantages  of  rotation. 


HOME    AND    COMMUNITY    WORK 

Visit  two  gardens  in  the  neighborhood  and  be  prepared  to  answer  the 
following: 

1.  What  crops  have  been  planted  this  year  in  each  garden? 

2.  Name  the  crops  that  were  planted  last  year  in  the  space  occupied 
by  each  of  these  crops. 

3.  If  possible,  learn  what  crops  were  planted  two  years  ago  in  the 
space  at  present  occupied  by  each  vegetable. 

4.  What  garden  pests  and  plant  diseases  were  most  troublesome  two 
years  ago?     What  ones  were  most  troublesome  last  year? 


CHAPTER   V 
PURCHASING   GARDEN    SEED 

Home-grown  seeds  preferable.  It  is  always  best  to  use 
your  own  garden  seeds  if  they  have  been  selected  with  care 
from  strong,  healthy  plants,  and  have  been  properly  stored 
and  carefully  tested.  When  certain  varieties  of  seeds  have 
been  grown  and  have  proved  satisfactory,  purchasing 
unknown  kinds  would  be  taking  a  risk  that  might  result  in 
a  complete  failure  of  the  crop. 

Many  gardeners  find  it  necessary  to  purchase  the  greater 
part  of  the  seed  they  use.  When  doing  this  care  should  be 
taken  to  secure  varieties  that  have  proved  successful  in 
the  community.  The  names  of  tested  kinds  may  easily  be 
secured  by  consulting 
a  successful  gardener 
in  the  neighborhood. 

Standard  varieties. 
Those  varieties  of 
seeds  which  have  pro- 
duced satisfactory 
crops  for  a  certain 
period  of  years  are 
known  as  standard 
(Fig.  7).  It  is  always  highly  desirable  to  plant  standard 
varieties  of  all  vegetables  and  fruits  because  they  are  more 
likely  to  continue  to  yield  the  same  quality  of  products  as 
their  ancestors. 

All  seed  should  be  purchased  from  a  reliable  dealer,  or  a 
person  who  has  had  experience  in  producing  and  caring  for 

37 


7.     The  New  York  school  children 
who  grew  these  fine  potatoes 
planted  a  standard  variety. 


38  GARDEN   CROPS 

good  seed.  A  reliable  seed  house  makes  it  a  business  to 
sell  seeds  from  well-tested  varieties.  When  these  special 
varieties  have  become  well  established  every  principle 
known  to  science  is  practiced  to  keep  the  seed  pure.  In 
addition  every  effort  is  made  to  see  that  the  seeds  are 
properly  stored  and  protected  from  mice. 

Buying  seed  in  small  packets.  It  is  less  expensive  to 
purchase  seed  in  large  quantities  and  divide  them  into  small 
individual  portions  than  it  is  to  buy  separate  packets.  But 
dividing  quantities  of  seed  requires  time,  and  unless  each 
portion  is  weighed  all  persons  may  not  get  an  equal  quan- 
tity. Many  gardeners  are  of  the  opinion  that  seed  is  saved 
by  purchasing  it  in  small  packets  since  in  many  varieties 
only  a  small  number  of  seeds  is  needed.  This  is  especially 
true  where  the  garden  is  small  and  seeds  of  several  kinds  of 
crops  are  to  be  planted. 

STUDY    OUTLINE 

i.  What  points  should  be  considered  when  you  wish  to  use  your  own 
seed  for  planting? 

2.  What  are  standard  varieties?     Tell  how  they  are  produced. 

HOME    AND    COMMUNITY    WORK 

i.  Visit  five  gardens  in  the  community  and  ask  how  many  of  the 
gardeners  grow  their  own  seed. 

2.  Find  out  if  they  prefer  home-grown  seeds  to  those  purchased  from 
the  store. 

3.  If  possible,  learn  from  whom  they  secured  the  best  seeds. 


CHAPTER   VI 
ECONOMY  IN  THE  USE  OF  SEEDS 

One  of  the  most  valuable  lessons  a  gardener  can  learn  is 
economy.  Great  care  should  be  exercised  with  regard  to 
the  quantity  of  seed  purchased  for  the  garden.  No  seed 
should  ever  be  wasted.  Purchasing  a  larger  quantity  of 
seed  than  is  necessary  is  wasteful.  Planting  seeds  too  thick 
is  also  wasteful  and  should  be  avoided. 

With  these  facts  in  mind,  purchase  only  such  seeds  as 
your  garden  plan  calls  for  (Chapter  II).  Seeds  for  future 
plantings  should  always  be  kept  in  dry,  well-ventilated  con- 
tainers so  that  mice  cannot  get  at  them  and  destroy  them. 

Quantity  of  Seed  Necessary  for  a  Family  of  Four 


Vegetables  Quantity        Vegetables  Quantity 


Bean,  bush   lima i  pint 

Bean,  pole  lima i  pint 


Melon:  watermelon i  ounce 

Onion  sets 4  to  6  quarts 


Bean,  snap 1  to  2  quarts  j  Pea 4  to  6  quarts 

Beet 4  ounces  Parsley 1  packet 

Cabbage,  early 1  packet  !  Parsnip >2  ounce 

Cabbage,  late y2  ounce  |  Radish 1  ounce 

Carrot 1    ounce  |  Salsify 1  ounce 

Cauliflower 1  packet 

Celery 1  packet  j  Spinach  (in  spring) X  ounce 

Corn,  sweet 1  to  2  pints  |  Spinach  (in  fall) }4  pound 

Cucumber 1  ounce  Squash,  Hubbard 1  ounce 

Eggplant 1  packet  t  Squash,  summer 1  ounce 

Kale 2  ounces  Tomato,  early 1  packet 

Lettuce >^  ounce  |  Tomato,  late yi  ounce 

Melon:  muskmelon 1  ounce  !  Turnips 2  to  3  ounces 

Estimating  quantity  of  seed.  The  United  States  Depart- 
ment of  Agriculture  in  its  Farmers'  Bulletin  Q34  suggests 
that  the  quantities  of  the  various  kinds  of  seed  given  in  the 

39 


40  GARDEN    CROPS 

foregoing  table  will  be  sufficient  for  a  family  of  four  persons. 
Taking  these  as  a  basis,  a  gardener  can  estimate  the  quan- 
tity of  seed  he  will  need,  and  purchase  it  before  planting 
time  arrives.  Such  a  calculation  is  a  splendid  school  exer- 
cise. It  makes  arithmetic  a  live  subject  in  the  minds  of  the 
pupils  who  have  such  practical  problems  to  solve. 

Fresh  vegetables  all  summer.  Young  gardeners  must 
not  forget  the  importance  of  successive  planting  throughout 
the  season,  so  that  fresh  vegetables  may  be  available  for  the 
family  at  all  times. 

STUDY    OUTLINE 
i.  Why  should  we  avoid  wasting  seed? 

2.  How  can  we  do  so? 

3.  Name  five  garden  crops;  give  the  quantity  of  each  kind  of  seed 
required  to  plant  a  garden  for  a  family  of  four. 

HOME    AND    COMMUNITY    WORK 

i.  Find  out  from  three  persons  in  the  community  how  much  of  each 
kind  of  seed  they  purchased  for  last  year's  garden. 

2.  In  each  instance  how  does  the  quantity  compare  with  that  given 
in  the  table? 


CHAPTER   VII 

VARIETIES    OF    CROPS 

The  varieties  of  garden  crops  mentioned  in  the  following 
table  have  proved  dependable  for  home  and  school  gardens 
throughout  many  parts  of  the  United  States.  Check 
this  list  with  an  experienced  gardener  in  your  locality. 
Occasionally  local  soils  and  climatic  conditions,  as  well  as 
market  demands,  might  make  it  desirable  to  use  different 
varieties  from  the  ones  suggested  here. 

i.  Vegetables 

Name  Variety 

Beans,  green  bush Stringless;  Green  Pod;  Red  Valentine 

Beans,  green  pole Kentucky  Wonder 

Beans,  bush  lima Landreth;  Burpee's  Bush 

Beans,  pole  lima Seidert;  Ideal 

Beets,  red Crosby's  Egyptian;  Detroit  Red 

Cabbage,  early Jersey  Wakefield;  Copenhagen 

Cabbage,  late Flat  Dutch;  Danish  Ball  Head 

Carrots French  Forcing ;  Half  Long  Scarlet 

Celery Easy  Blanching;  Columbia 

Corn,  sweet Country  Gentleman ;  Golden  Bantam 

Cucumbers Emerald;  White  Spine 

Lettuce,  leaf Grand  Rapids ;  Blackseeded  Simpson 

Lettuce,  head Big  Boston;  May  King 

Onion  sets White  Silverskin 

Onions,  dry Yellow  Globe;  Silver  King 

Parsley Plain  Leaved ;  Moss  Curled 

Parsnip Hollow  Crowned;  Sugar 

Peas Telephone;  American  Wonder 

Potatoes,  earlv Early  Ohio;  Irish  Cobbler;  Early  Rose 

Potatoes,  late". Burbank;  Sir  Walter  Raleigh 

Radishes,  early Scarlet  Globe ;  Short  Top 

Radishes,  summer White  Icicle 

Radishes,  winter Japanese 

Tomatoes Red  Rock;  Jewel;  Bonny  Best 

Turnips,  white White  Globe;  Purple  Top  Globe 

41 


42  GARDEN   CROPS 

2.  Small  Fruits,  Etc. 


Name  Variety 

Strawberries,  everbearing  (bisexual)  .  .Progressive;  Superb 

Strawberries,  ordinary  (bisexual) Lady  Thompson ;  Tennessee 

Strawberries  (pistillate) Crescent ;  Warfield 

Blackberries,  early Early  King ;  Eldorado 

Blackberries,  late Success;  Taylor 

Raspberries,  red Marlboro ;  Herbert ;  King 

Raspberries,  black Ohio;  Black  Diamond 

Raspberries,  purple-canc Shaffer;  Columbian 

Currants,  red Red  Dutch ;  Cherry 

Currants,  white White  Dutch;  Grape 

Currants,  black Black  Naples 

Gooseberries,  American Houghton;  Downing 

Gooseberries,  English Triumph;  Industry 

Grapes Concord;  Delaware 


STUDY    OUTLINE 

i.  Name  ten  common  vegetable  crops.  " 

2.  Name  two  varieties  of  each  crop. 

3.  Name  five  small-fruit  crops. 

4.  Name  two  varieties  of  each  crop. 

HOME    AND    COMMUNITY    WORK 

1.  What  vegetables  and  fruits  were  grown  in  your  home  garden  last 
year? 

2.  Name  each  variety  that  you  grew. 

3.  Visit  three  gardens  in  your  community  and  make  a  list  of  all  the 
crops  grown  in  each  and  the  variety  of  the  crop  produced. 


CHAPTER   VIII 
HINTS    ON   PLANTING 

The  successful  gardener,  before  starting  on  the  season's 
work,  secures  all  the  information  he  can  get.  Subjects  of 
special  interest  to  him  are:  Kinds  of  vegetables,  quantity 
of  seed  or  number  of  plants  required  for  his  garden,  planting 
distances,  depth  of  planting,  days  required  for  germination 
of  seed,  average  time  of  maturing,  and  average  life  of  the 
seed  of  each  kind  of  vegetable.  All  these  things  are  impor- 
tant to  the  gardener.  In  selecting  vegetable  varieties  care 
must  be  used  to  get  those  that  do  best  in  the  locality,  and 
for  the  surplus  of  which  a  nearby  market  affords  an  outlet. 

Planting  distances.  The  number  of  plants  or  the  quantity 
of  seed  required  for  a  row  depends  upon  the  distance  between 
the  plants  (Fig.  8).  This,  as  well  as  the  distance  between 
rows,  is  determined  by : 

i .  The  character  of  root  growth ;  planting  distances  differ 
for  corn  and  beets  because  of  the  difference  in  root  growth, 
corn  roots  being  much  the  longer. 

2.  Top  growth,  as  in  lettuce  and  tomatoes. 

3.  Fertility  of  the  soil;  some  crops,  such  as  onions  and 
celery,  require  a  much  more  fertile  soil  than  others — beans, 
for  instance,  which  will  grow  in  almost  any  soil. 

4.  Character  of  growth;  melons  require  more  space  than 
cabbages,  because  of  their  tendency  to  vine. 

5.  Germinating  power  of  seeds;  some  seeds  germinate 
under  almost  any  reasonable  conditions  of  soil  and  climate, 
while  others  need  care  and  attention. 

43 


44 


GARDEN    CROPS 


Planting  depths.     The  depth  at  which  the  seed  should  be 
planted  is  determined  by: 
i.  Size  of  seed. 

2.  Habit  of  plant. 

3.  Quality  of  soil,  whether  warm  or  cold,  heavy  or  light. 

4.  Time  of  year. 

Things   that  affect   seed.     The  gardener  should  realize 
that  many  agencies  combine  to  influence  the  germination, 


tir-:K'*>^.*s    -        w\ 

-^i. 

•it- 

j                     ;                                                    if'.,                                ,,      '^     - 

/^Tp>  p       f^fi 

--**     ^-::f;  —    -£i  JR>;             *  -■ 

Fig.  8.     These  boys  are  not  planting  their  potatoes  by  chance, 
have  learned  that  potatoes  should  be  planted  j  or  4  inches 
deep,  and  in  straight  rows  2  to  2^2  feet  apart. 


They 


maturity,  and  life  of  seeds.      For  this  reason,  the  exact  length 
of  time   required    for    these   cannot   be   determined.      For 


HINTS   ON    PLANTING 


45 


example,  soil  and  climatic  conditions  have  an  influence  on 
the  germination  and  maturing  of  seed.  The  life  of  the  seed 
may  depend  upon  their  state  of  maturity  at  harvest  time, 
or  the  conditions  under  which  they  are  stored.  Although 
seed  may  be  in  good  condition  to  plant  after  several  years 
of  storage,  it  is  not  at  all  safe  to  depend  upon  old  seed. 

Since  this  information  is  of  interest  to  so  many  it  has  been 
arranged  in  a  convenient  form  known  as  "gardeners'  plant- 
ing tables"  which  follow.1 

Gardeners'  Planting  Table  I 


Vegetable 


Seeds  or  plants 
required  for  ioo 
feet  of  row  space 


Beans,  bush.  .  .  . 

Beans,  pole 

Beets. . . 
Cabbage,  early. 
Cabbage,  late . . . 

Carrot 

Celery 

Corn,  sweet .... 

Cucumber 

Lettuce 

Muskmelon .... 
Watermelon .... 

Onion  seed 

Onion  sets 

Parsnips 

Peas 

Pepper 

Potato,  Irish .  .  . 

Radish 

Rhubarb  seed .  . 
Rhubarb  plants. 

Rutabaga 

Salsify 

Spinach 

Squash,  bush  . . . 
Squash,  late. .  .  . 

Tomato 

Turnip .  - 


i  pint 
3  2  pint 
2  ounces 
34  ounce 
34  ounce 
i  ounce 
34  ounce 
34  pint 
L2  ounce 
J'2  ounce 
Y2  ounce 
i  ounce 
i  ounce 
I  quart 
Y%  ounce 
i  to  2  pints 
\6  ounce 
5  pounds 
i  ounce 
Y/2  ounce 

33  plants 

34  ounce 
i  ounce 

i  ounce 
l . 
l 


?  ounce 


y%  ounce 
Yl  ounce 


Planted  apart 
in  rows 


5  to  8  inches 

3  to  4  feet 

5  to  8  inches 
12  to  1 8  inches 
1 6  to  24  inches 

6  to  10  inches 

4  to  8  inches 
30  to  36  inches 
4  to  6  feet 

4  to  6  inches 
Hills  6  feet 
Hills  10  feet 
4  to  6  inches 

4  to  8  inches 

5  to  8  inches 
1 5  to   a  foot 
15  to  18  inches 
14  to  18  inches 
8  to  12  feet 

6  to  8  inches 
3  feet 

6  to  8  inches 

2  to  4  inches 

7  or  8  to  a  foot 
Hills  3  to  4  feet 
Hills  7  to  9  feet 

3  feet  (  plants) 
6  to  7  to  a  foot 


Depth  of 
planting 


Y/'2  to  1  inch 
1  to  2  inches 
1  to  2  inches 
3^  inch 


l- 


inch 


>2  inch 
\6  inch 
1  to  2  inches 
1  to  2  inches 
3>2  inch 
1  to  2  inches 
1  to  2  inches 
3^2  to  1  inch 

1  to  2  inches 
>2  to  I  inch 

2  to  3  inches 
3>^  inch 

4  inches 


to  1  inch 
>2  to  1  inch 
2  to  3  inches 
3^2  to  1  inch 
I2  to  1  inch 
1  to  2  inches 
1  to  2  inches 
1  to  2  inches 
3-2  to  1  inch 
J4  to  3  2  inch 


Part  of  the  information  in  these  tables  is  taken  from  Farmers'  Bulletin  818. 


46 


GARDEN   CROPS 


Gardeners'  Planting  Table  II 


Vegetable 

Beans,  bush 

Beans,  pole 

Beets 

Cabbage 

Carrots 

Cauliflower 

Celery 

Corn,  sweet 

Cucumbers 

Lettuce 

Onions 

Peas 

Parsnips 

Radishes 

Tomatoes 

Turnips 


Usual    time   of 

Ready  for  use 

Average   time  in 

germination 

after  planting 

years  that  seeds 

in    days 

in    days 

retain  vitality 

7  to  10 

40  to  65 

3 

7  to  io 

50  to  80 

3 

8  to  14 

60  to  80 

6 

7  to  10 

80  to  125 

5 

13  to  18 

80  to  no 

4 

8  to  10 

90  to  125 

5 

10  to  15 

125  to  150 

8 

4  to  8 

60  to  100 

10 

8  to  10 

60  to  80 

10 

7  to  10 

60  to  90 

5 

10  to  12 

125  to  150 

2 

6  to  9 

40  to  75 

3 

12  tO  20 

125  to  150 

2 

5  to  6 

20  to  40 

5 

7  to  10 

100  to  150 

4 

6  to  8 

60  to  90 

5       . 

STUDY    OUTLINE 

1.  Give  quantity  of  seed  needed  for  100  feet  of  row  space  for  the  ten 
vegetables  with  which  you  are  most  familiar. 

2.  Give  depth  the  seed  of  each  should  be  planted. 

3.  What  is  the  average  time  before  each  of  these  ten  vegetables  is 
ready  for  table  use? 

4.  State  the  average  life  in  years  of  the  seeds  of  each. 

5.  What  is  the  usual  time  required  for  the  germination  of  each  kind 
of  seed. 

HOME    AND    COMMUNITY    WORK 

1.  Visit  three  home  gardens  near  your  school  or  residence  and  learn 
what  vegetables  were  grown  in  them  last  year. 

2.  Find  out  the  quantity  of  seed  used  for  each  crop;  the  length  of  the 
rows. 

3.  How  does  the  quantity  used  compare  with  that  given  in  the  table? 

4.  Germinate  seeds  of  different  ages.     Note  results. 


CHAPTER   IX 
DRAINING   THE    GARDEN 

Natural  drainage.  When  the  garden  site  contains  gravel 
or  has  a  sandy  soil  it  is  said  to  have  natural  drainage.  If 
the  garden  is  on  a  slope  the  surplus  water  will  drain  off. 

Artificial  drainage.  If  the  garden  is  low  and  flat  and  has 
a  heavy  clay  soil  it  will  need  artificial  drainage.  Artificial 
drains  should  be  put  in  before  the  seed  bed  is  prepared. 

If  garden  plants  are  to  grow  and  reach  their  best  develop- 
ment they  must  have  a  well-drained  seed  bed.  For  growth 
roots  require  air  as  well  as  water  (Fig.  9).  They  cannot  find 
the  proper  amount  of  air  if  the  soil  contains  too  much  water. 
This  surplus  soil  moisture  is  sometimes  called  gravitational 
water.  It  excludes  the  air  which  the  plant  roots  need.  It 
is  also  gravitational  water  that  fills  our  wells  or  springs. 

The  water  that  does  not  run  off  either  by  natural  or  arti- 
ficial drainage  is  known  as  capillary  or  film  water.  It  is 
capillary  or  film  water  that  the  roots  of  plants  make  use  of. 

Tile  drains.  When  properly  placed  tile  drains  are  bene- 
ficial because  they  carry  off  the  gravitational  water  and 
thus  provide  more  air  for  the  roots,  warm  the  soil,  make 
tillage  easy,  reduce  injury  due  to  dry  weather,  promote 
germination  of  seeds,  reduce  surface  wash,  permit  earlier 
working  of  the  soil,  and  make  possible  a  deeper  root  system. 

Open  trenches.  If  the  garden  is  small  and  the  gardener 
does  not  care  to  go  to  the  expense  of  putting  in  tile  drains, 
open  trenches  will  do  some  good.  These  trenches  are  made 
with  a  spade,  shovel,  or  plow.     They  are  usually  located  on 

47 


48 


GARDEN   CROPS 


both  sides  or  ends  of  the  garden  and  occasionally  through 
the  middle  also.  If  the  garden  is  large  an  open  trench 
1 8  to  24  inches  deep  may  be  made  every  30  or  40  feet. 
Filling  to  avoid  drainage.  In  a  small  garden  it  is  often 
Jess  expensive   and  more   convenient  to  fill  in  low  ground 


Fig.  9. 


How  drainage  ajfects  the  root  growth  of  plants. 


rather  than  to  put  in  tile  drains  or  dig  surface  trenches. 
When  this  is  done,  good  loam,  wood's  dirt,  or  a  sandy  soil 
is  used  for  filling.  The  low  part  of  the  garden  should  be 
covered  to  a  depth  of  3  or  4  feet.  If  this  is  not  sufficient 
more  soil  must  be  added.  Drainage,  or  filling  of  low 
ground,  will  add  greatly  to  the  value  of  a  garden  site. 

STUDY    OUTLINE 

1.  What  two  conditions  favor  natural  drainage? 

2.  What  is  gravitational  water?     What  is  film  water? 

3.  Give  six  advantages  derived  from  the  use  of  tile  drains. 

4.  How  are  open  trenches  prepared?  How  do  they  drain  the  garden? 

HOME    AND    COMMUNITY    WORK 

1.  Visit  gardens  in  your  community  and  learn  the  method  of  drainage, 
if  any,  used  in  each.     How  many  gardens  were  on  natural  slopes? 


CHAPTER   X 
PREPARING  THE  GARDEN  SOIL 

Plowing  and  spading.  If  possible  the  garden  should  be 
plowed  in  the  fall.  If  this  cannot  be  done,  very  early 
spring  plowing  is  advisable.  Many  gardens  are  too  small 
to  be  plowed  with  a  team.  These  should  be  spaded  deeply 
with  a  spading  fork.  Deep  plowing  and  spading,  followed 
by  thorough  harrowing  and  raking,  put  the  soil  in  the  best 
possible  condition  for  the  development  of  the  root  system. 
When  the  soil  is  being  spaded,  each  spadeful  as  it  is  turned 
over  should  be  broken  by  striking  it  with  the  back  of  the 
spade.    An  ideal  garden  soil  will  crumble  in  the  hands. 

How  to  make  a  compost  heap.  Vegetables  are  heavy 
feeders  and  therefore  they  need  a  soil  made  rich  by  the 
application  of  stable  manure.  Experienced  gardeners  have 
a  very  high  regard  for  compost  for  use  upon  the  garden. 
A  compost  heap  is  made  of  a  mixture  of  meadow  sod, 
leaves,  straw,  the  skin  and  other  unused  portions  of  food 
and  vegetables,  sweepings  from  unoiled  streets,  lime  or 
wood  ashes,  stable  manure,  and  earth.  By  means  of  the 
compost  heap  manure  is  allowed  to  rot  under  the  most 
favorable  conditions.  The  plan  usually  followed  is  to 
spread  out  first  a  layer  of  manure  about  four  inches  deep, 
then  one  of  leaves  or  straw  or  vegetable  waste.  Upon  these 
sprinkle  a  small  quantity  of  lime  or  wood  ashes  and  follow 
with  a  layer  of  earth  an  inch  or  two  thick.  Repeat  the 
operation  until  all  available  material  has  thus  been  arranged 
in  piles.     The  rainfall  will  probably  be  sufficient  to  prevent 

4  49 


5° 


GARDEN    CROPS 


the  compost  heap  from  heating.  Alternate  layers  of  leaves 
or  straw  prevent  the  plant  food  contained  in  the  stable 
fertilizer  and  street  sweepings  from  dissolving  away  or 
"leaching  out"  as  the  rain  water  filters  through  the  heap. 


Fig.  io.  Filling  plant  containers  from  the  compost  heap.     The  boy  or 

girl  who  learns  to  make  good  use  of  the  compost  heap  will 

stand  a  good  chance  of  carrying  off  the  prizes. 

Any  stable  or  commercial  fertilizer  should  be  very  thor- 
oughly worked  into  the  soil.  This  is  important.  A  detailed 
discussion  of  garden  fertilizers  is  given  in  Chapter  XI. 

The  use  of  lime.  Garden  soils  composed  largely  of  clay 
are  very  likely  to  be  sour.  To  remedy  this  condition  apply 
to  every  25  square  feet  of  garden  space  1  pound  of  air- 
slaked,  burned,  or  hydrated  lime,  or  2  pounds  of  ground 
limestone,  or  3  pounds  of  unleached  wood  ashes. 


PREPARING    THE    GARDEN    SOIL  51 

Lime,  in  addition  to  correcting  acidity  in  the  soil,  improves 
its  physical  structure. 

The  proper  preparation  of  the  soil  is  of  the  utmost  impor- 
tance, and  the  success  of  the  garden  will  very  largely  depend 
upon  the  thoroughness  with  which  this  work  has  been  done. 

STUDY    OUTLINE 

1.  When  is  the  1  est  time  to  plow  a  spring  garden? 

2.  How  should  spading  be  done? 

3.  What  is  an  ideal  garden  soil? 

4.  Do  vegetables  need  a  rich  soil?     If  so,  why? 

5.  Tell  how  a  compost  heap  is  made. 

6.  How  should  sour  garden  soils  be  treated? 

7.  Besides  correcting  acidity  of  soil  state  another  use  of  lime. 

8.  Upon  what  does  a  successful  garden  largely  depend? 

HOME    AND    COMMUNITY    WORK 

1 .  Has  your  spring  garden  at  home  ever  been  spaded  or  plowed  in  the 
fall? 

2.  Visit  four  gardeners  in  your  community.  How  many  have  used 
lime  and  compost?     State  the  results  in  each  case. 


CHAPTER   XI 
COMMERCIAL   FERTILIZERS   FOR   THE   GARDEN 

Compost  and  manure  from  the  stable,  hen  house,  or 
pigeon  loft  are  by  far  the  best  fertilizers  for  the  garden. 
When  these  natural  fertilizers  are  not  available  in  sufficient 
quantities  it  is  necessary  to  obtain  commercial  fertilizers, 
which  are  also  often  used  as  a  supplement  to  manure. 

Commercial  fertilizers.  The  better  commercial  fertilizers 
contain  plant  food  in  a  readily  available  form  and  will 
therefore  help  materially  in  producing  a  good  garden  crop. 
The  three  food  elements  most  needed  by  plants  are  nitro- 
gen, phosphorus,  and  potassium.  The  nitrogen  can  be 
supplied  by  means  of  nitrate  of  soda  and  sulphate  of  ammo- 
nia, which  are  its  most  common  chemical  sources.  The 
most  common  nitrogenous  fertilizers  from  organic  sources 
are  dried  blood,  tankage,  fish  scraps,  and  cotton-seed  meal. 
The  phosphorus  needed  for  soils  is  supplied  through  chem- 
ical sources  from  phosphate  rock  and  Thomas  slag;  through 
organic  sources  by  ground  raw  bone,  ground  steamed  bone, 
and  bone  black.  The  organic  sources  of  potash  fertilizers 
are  unleached  and  leached  wood  ashes  and  tobacco  stems. 
The  chemical  sources  of  potash  are  kainite,  muriate  of 
potash,  and  sulphate  of  potash.  If  the  prices  on  potash 
from  chemical  sources  are  too  high  to  be  profitable,  wood 
ashes  may  be  used  to  supply  this  plant  food.  Besides 
potash,  wood  ashes  also  contain  about  30  per  cent  of  lime 
and  therefore  serve  a  double  purpose,  furnishing  lime  as 
well  as  a  small  per  cent  of  potash. 

52 


COMMERCIAL   FERTILIZERS   FOR   THE    GARDEX  53 

Quantity  of  fertilizer  to  use.  For  a  garden  containing 
1,000  to  1,250  square  feet,  10  pounds  of  nitrate  of  soda  or 
sulphate  of  ammonia  and  30  pounds  of  acid  phosphate  will 
make  a  good  application.  The  nitrate  of  soda  or  sulphate 
of  ammonia  is  applied  in  dry  form  by  putting  half  the 
quantity  in  the  row  at  planting  time  after  the  seeds  have 
been  covered,  and  scattering  the  other  half  broadcast 
between  the  rows  and  raking  it  into  the  soil.  When 
applying  the  dry  fertilizers  directly  in  the  row  before  the 
plants  come  up,  use  2  tablespoonfuls  for  20  feet  of  row 
space.  If  the  dry  fertilizer  is  applied  after  the  plants 
come  up,  scatter  2  tablespoonfuls  along  the  side  of  each 
row.  Do  not  permit  the  dry  fertilizer  to  come  in  contact 
with  the  plants. 

Another  way  to  use  fertilizers,  and  one  often  followed, 
is  to  apply  nitrate  of  soda  or  sulphate  of  ammonia  in 
solution  after  the  plants  are  started.  Use  1  tablespoonful 
of  either  of  these  to  a  gallon  of  cold  water.  Sprinkle  this 
solution  freely  along  the  row.  A  gallon  of  this  mixture 
should  be  enough  for  20  feet  of  row  space.  Three  applica- 
tions during  the  growing  season  will  probably  be  sufficient 
to  insure  good  results  on  most  soils.  It  is  important  to 
remember  that  the  first  two  applications  should  be  made 
early  in  the  growing  season.  Apply  the  first  solution  soon 
after  the  plants  appear ;  the  second  application  can  be  added 
about  two  or  three  weeks  later,  and  the  third  about  the 
middle  of  the  growing  season. 

These  fertilizers  may  also  be  applied  in  solution  as  soon 
as  the  seeds  are  planted.  If  this  is  done,  2  heaping  table- 
spoonfuls may  be  used  to  1  gallon  of  cold  water  on  every 
20  feet  of  row  space.     The  acid  phosphate  can  be  scattered 


54  GARDEN    CROPS 

broadcast  and  raked  in  as  soon  as  the  ground  is  plowed. 
Use  3  pounds  to  each  ioo  square  feet  of  garden  space. 

Stable  manure  is  sometimes  used  in  connection  with  a 
commercial  fertilizer.  A  ton  of  this  manure  could  be  used 
on  a  garden  containing  1,000  to  1,250  square  feet.  After 
spading  or  plowing  in  the  stable  manure  add  30  pounds  of 
acid  phosphate  and  rake  it  in  well  as  soon  as  the  ground 
is  plowed. 

Prepared  fertilizers.  Most  seed  and  fertilizer  houses  now 
sell  garden  fertilizers  already  prepared.  These  can  be  pur- 
chased in  small  quantities.  A  good  garden  fertilizer  will 
contain  3  to  5  per  cent  of  nitrogen,  2  per  cent  of  potash, 
and  8  to  10  per  cent  of  phosphoric  acid.  The  dealer  will 
explain  the  best  mixtures  for  the  different  types  of  soil. 
Most  gardeners  count  on  using  about  5  pounds  of  the  above 
grade  of  commercial  fertilizer  for  each  100  square  feet  of 
garden  space. 

A  little  study  of  the  best  methods  of  using  commercial 
fertilizers  on  his  garden  will  yield  any  gardener  a  splendid 
reward  for  the  time  thus  spent. 

STUDY    OUTLINE 

1.  What  three  chemical  elements  are  most  necessary  to  plant  life? 
From  what  two  general  classes  of  sources  are  they  obtained? 

2.  What  are  the  most  common  chemical  sources  of  nitrogen? 

3.  What  are  the  most  common  organic  sources  of  nitrogen? 

4.  What  the  most  common  chemical  sources  of  phosphorus? 

5.  What  are  the  most  common  organic  sources  of  phosphorus? 

6.  What  are  the  organic  sources  of  potash? 

7.  What  are  the  chemical  sources  of  potash? 

8.  Tell  how  dry  fertilizers  should  be  applied. 

9.  Give  proportions  of  fertilizers  to  be  used  in  solution. 


COMMERCIAL    FERTILIZERS   FOR   THE    GARDEN  55 

HOME    AND    COMMUNITY    WORK 

i.  Visit  five  home  gardens  in  your  community  and  learn  what  kinds 
of  fertilizer  were  used  in  each. 

2.  In  applying  fertilizers  which  form  —  dry  or  in  solution  —  was  the 
more  popular? 

3.  What  was  the  cost  for  each  garden? 

4.  What  fertilizers  were  most  popular? 

5.  Find  out  the  trade  name  and  the  plant  food  contained  in  the  kinds 
which  proved  most  successful. 


CHAPTER    XII 
TESTING   GARDEN    SEED 

The  importance  of  testing  garden  seed  cannot  be  over- 
emphasized. We  cannot  tell  by  looking  at  seeds  whether 
or  not  they  will  grow.  The  only  safe  way  is  to  test  them 
to  see  if  the  germs  are  alive. 

Many  things  contribute  to  undermine  the  vitality  of 
seeds.  Among  these  are  cold  wet  seasons,  seasons  too  short 
for  plants  to  mature  properly,  improper  storage  after  seeds 
have  been  harvested,  exposure  to  rodents  or  insect  enemies 
which  destroy  them  while  in  storage,  and  keeping  them  too 
long  before  planting. 

Reliable  seed  houses  make  it  a  part  of  their  business  to 
test  carefully  the  seeds  they  plant  or  sell.  Even  when  this 
is  done  it  sometimes  happens  that  the  vitality  of  seeds  is 
injured  before  they  are  planted.  Because  of  these  and  other 
reasons  that  need  not  be  mentioned  here,  it  is  necessary  for 
gardeners  to  test  their  seed  before  planting. 

How  to  test  seed.  Testing  seed  is  a  simple  process  and 
may  be  done  in  any  of  the  following  ways: 

i.  Fill  a  chalk  box  with  sand.  Plant  ioo  seeds  in  the 
sand.  Cover  the  box  with  glass  and  keep  it  in  a  temperature 
of  about  700  Fahrenheit.  Note  the  percentage  of  seed  that 
germinate.  Place  corresponding  numbers  on  the  box  and 
the  seed  package  as  a  reminder  of  which  package  is  being 
tested. 

2.  Place  100  seeds  between  two  sheets  of  moistened  blot- 
ting paper.     Keep  in  a  warm  room  and  note  the  percentage 

56 


TESTING    GARDEN    SEED  57 

that  germinate.     Number  the  sheets  and  package  to  corre- 
spond. 

3.  Fill  two  small  bags  with  sawdust  and  moisten  them. 
Place  100  seeds  between  these  bags  and  note  the  percentage 
that  germinate.  Be  sure  to  keep  the  bags  in  a  warm  place. 
Number  the  bags  and  put  the  same  number  on  the  package 
from  which  the  seeds  were  taken. 

4.  Cut  a  long  strip  of  muslin  about  12  inches  wide. 
Mark  it  off  into  3 -inch  squares,  leaving  about  8  inches  blank 
at  each  end  of  the  strip.  Select  the  same  number  of  ears 
of  corn  to  be  tested  as  you  have  squares  on  the  cloth.  Put 
a  few  grains  from  one  of  the  ears  on  each  of  the  squares 
and  number  the  ears  and  squares  to  correspond.  Turn 
the  blank  ends  of  the  new  cloth  back  over  the  squares  of 
seeds  and  roll  up  the  entire  strip  over  a  smooth  round 
stick,  being  careful  not  to  disarrange  the  seeds.  Tie  the 
ends  of  the  roll  and  set  it  in  lukewarm  water  for  twelve 
hours  and  then  keep  it  in  a  warm  place  for  a  week.  This 
is  a  convenient  way  to  germinate  seeds.  It  is  known  as 
the  "rag-doll"  tester. 

Determining  the  percentage  of  germination.  By  testing 
seed  we  determine  not  only  the  percentage  that  will  germi- 
nate, but  also  the  strength  of  the  seed  germ.  When  seeds 
show  a  very  weak  germ  we  conclude  that  they  are  not  fit  to 
plant.  Most  gardeners  consider  garden  seed  good  to  plant 
if  the  test  shows  that  7  5  per  cent  will  germinate  and  produce 
a  strong  germ.  If  the  percentage  of  germination  is  smaller, 
we  must  discard  the  entire  package  as  unfit  to  plant,  or 
sow  the  seed  more  thickly  than  has  been  suggested 
(Chapter  VIII)  in  order  to  make  up  for  the  weak  or  inferior 
seeds.     When  the  samples  show  both  a  low  percentage  of 


58  GARDEN   CROPS 

germination  and  an  inferior  germ,  the  better  plan  is  to 
discard  the  package  from  which  the  seeds  were  taken  and 
get  new  seed.  But  if  the  seed  is  sown  thickly  it  usually 
means  that  the  plants  will  have  to  be  thinned  out  later- 
At  best  the  plants  will  be  uneven  and  also  very  irregular  in 
their  growth  and  time  of  maturing.  Successful  gardeners 
always  test  seed  before  planting. 

STUDY    OUTLINE 

i.  Name  three  conditions  that  tend  to  undermine  the  vitality  of  seed. 

2.  Name  several  ways  of  testing  seed.     Describe  each  process. 

3.  What  is  determined  by  testing  seed? 

4.  What  per  cent  may  be  used  as  a  minimum  for  deciding  that  seed  is 
fit  to  plant? 

HOME    AND    COMMUNITY    WORK 

1.  State  the  methods  most  commonly  used  in  your  community  for 
testing  seed. 

2.  Visit  five  homes  in  your  community  and  find  out  how  many  persons 
tested  their  garden  seed  last  year. 

3.  How  many  had  difficulty  in  getting  a  good  stand  of  certain  vege- 
tables? 

4.  Did  they  test  the  seeds  of  these  poor  crops?     If  so.  what  per  cent 
germinated? 


CHAPTER   XIII 
THE   HOTBED 

Making  a  hotbed.  A  hotbed  is  used  to  produce  early 
plants  that  are  intended  for  transplanting  later  to  the  vege- 
table or  flower  garden,  or  to  mature  plants  like  lettuce, 
radishes,  and  onions  out  of  season  (Fig.  n).  In  preparing 
a  hotbed  the  gardener's  first  problem  is  the  selection  of  a 
site.  This  should  be  in  a  convenient  and  well-drained  loca- 
tion. After  the  site  is  chosen  the  next  step  is  to  dig  a  pit 
from  2  to  3  feet  deep  and  6  feet  wide.  This  pit  may  be 
made  as  long  as  the  sash  with  which  the  gardener  intends 
to  cover  it,  but  9  to  12  feet  will  be  long  enough  to  produce 
plants  sufficient  for  the  average  home  garden.  When  the 
pit  is  ready  a  2 -inch  plank  15  inches  wide  is  placed  on  the 
north  side  of  the  bed  and  one  8  to  10  inches  wide  on  the 
south.  This  arrangement  gives  the  sash  a  southern  slope. 
The  ends  of  the  bed  are  then  enclosed  with  boards,  and 
earth  is  thrown  up  around  the  entire  framework  to  keep 
out  cold  and  insure  a  more  uniform  temperature. 

Hotbed  sashes.  In  the  North,  the  pit  and  the  framework 
should  be  made  ready  in  the  fall.  Hotbed  sashes  are  fre- 
quently made  in  sections  3  feet  wide  and  6  feet  long.  These 
sections  can  easily  be  raised  or  lowered  by  placing  hinges 
on  the  north  or  south  plank.  They  can  also  be  made  to 
slide  in  and  out  on  the  strips  of  wood  placed  across  the  top 
of  the  bed  for  the  sash  to  rest  upon. 

Preparing  the  hotbed  for  the  plants.  About  ten  weeks 
before  it  is  time  to  transplant  the  plants  to  the  garden  the 

59 


6o 


GARDEN    CROPS 


pit  should  be  filled  with  moist  stable  manure.  This  manure 
is  covered  with  5  or  6  inches  of  rich  soil  procured  for  that 
purpose  in  the  fall.  The  manure  ferments  and  heats  the 
soil  which,  during  this  time,  should  be  kept  moist.  At  first 
the  fermentation  will  be  excessive,  but  after  a  few  days  this 


Fig.  11.     A  hotbed  shielded  from  the  wind  by  willows.     Some  of  the 

mature  plants  from  the  hotbed  have  already   been   transplanted 

and  are  growing  in  this  luxuriant  and  attractive  garden. 

will  stop,  and  the  heat  given  off  will  become  uniform.  The 
hotbed  is  then  ready  for  use.  A  thermometer  should  be 
placed  in  the  soil  so  that  the  gardener  may  know  when  the 
temperature  remains  at  about  850  Fahrenheit,  which  is 
the  proper  temperature  for  planting  seeds.  If  the  bed 
should  get  too  warm  after  planting  the  seed  it  can  be  cooled 


THE   HOTBED  61 

by  lifting  the  sash  a  few  minutes.  If  the  hotbed  has  been 
properly  constructed  it  will  give  off  sufficient  heat  of  a 
uniform  temperature  to  produce  plants  for  a  period  of  six 
weeks. 

The  hotbed  will  prove  a  valuable  addition  to  any  garden. 
If  the  frames  and  sashes  are  kej-t  painted  and  well  cared 
for  they  will  last  many  years. 

STUDY    OUTLINE 

i.  For  what  purposes  is  the  hotbed  used? 

2.  How  should  it  be  located? 

3.  How  is  the  pit  constructed? 

4.  How  is  the  frame  constructed? 

5.  When  is  the  manure  put  in  place? 

6.  How  much  and  what  kind  of  soil  should  be  placed  upon  the  manure? 

7.  Why  should  the  gardener  use  a  thermometer  to  test  the  temperature 
of  the  hotbed? 

HOME    AND    COMMUNITY    WORK 

Visit  two  gardeners  who  have  hotbeds  and  be  prepared  to  answer  the 
following  questions: 

1.  What  is  the  size  of  each  hotbed? 

2.  What  is  the  height  of  plank  on  the  north  side?  on  the  south  side? 

3.  On  what  date  was  the  soil  added  to  the  hotbed? 

4.  When  was  the  seed  planted,  and  what  kinds? 

5.  On  what  date  was  transplanting  done? 

6.  Were  there  any  vegetables  matured  in  these  beds?  If  so,  name 
them. 


CHAPTER   XIV 
THE   COLD   FRAME   AND    SEED    BED 

Cold  frames.  No  manure  is  used  in  cold  frames,  but 
otherwise  they  are  made  exactly  like  hotbeds.  The  sun 
alone  is  depended  upon  to  furnish  heat  for  the  plants.  A 
cold  frame  is  covered  with  a  sash  similar  to  that  used  for 
the  hotbed.  If  no  glass  is  available,  heavy  cotton  cloth  or 
canvas  may  be  substituted  for  it.  The  chief  object  in  con- 
structing a  cold  frame  is  to  have  a  place  in  which  to  harden 
plants  raised  in  a  hotbed  before  transplanting  them  to  the 
garden.  If  some  means  were  not  taken  to  harden  tender 
plants  like  the  tomato,  the  plants  would  have  to  be  taken 
directly  from  the  hotbed  to  the  open  ground  and  probably 
would  die.  If  such  plants  are  first  transplanted  to  a  cold 
frame  the  change  of  temperature  is  not  so  sudden,  and  they 
are  less  liable  to  die  or  to  be  set  back  in  growth.  In  some 
localities  cold  frames  may  also  be  used  for  growing  winter 
lettuce  and  spinach  as  well  as  for  storing  certain  tender 
plants  over  winter. 

As  the  spring  season  approaches  and  the  heat  of  the  sun 
begins  to  increase  in  the  middle  of  the  day,  the  sash  may, 
at  this  time,  be  raised  a  few  inches  in  order  to  harden  the 
plants.  This  also  provides  necessary  ventilation.  Later 
in  the  season  the  covering  may  be  removed  entirely  for  the 
greater  part  of  the  day.  A  few  days  before  the  plants  are 
to  be  transplanted  from  the  cold  frame  to  the  garden  the 
sash  should  be  removed  from  the  frames  both  day  and  night 
to  finish  the  process  of  hardening.     In  severe  cold  weather 

62 


THE   COLD   FRAME   AND   SEED   BED  63 

both  hotbeds  and  cold  frames  need  additional  protection 
against  the  cold.  This  extra  protection  may  be  provided 
by  covering  the  frames  or  beds  at  night  with  hay,  straw,  or 
fodder. 

Seed  bed.  Many  gardeners  reserve  a  small  piece  of 
ground  at  one  end  of  the  garden  for  a  seed  bed.  Good  soil 
may  be  secured  by  using  one  part  well-rotted  manure,  two 
parts  rich  garden  loam  or  wood's  dirt,  and  one  part  fine 
sand.  Compost  from  the  compost  heap,  already  described 
(Chapter  X),  is  good  to  use  in  preparing  soil  for  the  seed 
bed.  Mix  all  the  ingredients  thoroughly  before  planting 
the  seed. 

Protecting  the  bed  against  cold.  In  the  North  the  seed 
bed  should  be  protected  against  severe  cold  by  placing  over 
it  a  wooden  frame  covered  with  canvas  cloth.  Earth  is 
banked  up  around  this  frame  during  the  coldest  weather. 
As  the  days  begin  to  grow  warmer  the  canvas  can  be  removed 
from  the  frames  so  as  to  harden  the  plants.  Two  weeks 
before  it  is  time  to  begin  transplanting,  the  canvas  should 
be  removed  entirely.  Plants  produced  in  this  way  are  some- 
times stronger  than  those  produced  in  either  the  hotbed  or 
the  cold  frame. 

STUDY    OUTLINE 

1.  What  is  the  chief  difference  between  a  cold  frame  and  a  hotbed? 

2.  What  is  the  principal  use  of  the  cold  frame? 

3.  Tell  how  hotbeds  and  cold  frames  are  protected  in  severe  cold 
weather. 

4.  How  is  a  seed  bed  made? 

5.  Describe  the  plan  used  in  the  North  for  protecting  the  seed  bed. 


64  GARDEN  CROPS 

HOME  AND  COMMUNITY  WORK 

Visit  two  gardeners  who  use  either  a  cold  frame  or  a  seed  bed  and 
answer  the  following  questions  in  regard  to  each: 
i.  On  what  date  were  the  observations  made? 

2.  What  were  the  dimensions  of  the  cold  frame  or  seed  bed,  and  what 
kind  of  soil  did  it  contain? 

3.  What  crops  were  produced  in  the  cold  frame  or  seed  bed? 


CHAPTER   XV 
PLANTING   DATES   EAST   OF   THE   MISSISSIPPI1 

It  is  said  that  the  Indians  planted  corn  when  the  oak  leaves 
were  as  large  as  a  squirrel's  ear.  When  planting,  they  also 
gave  consideration  to  the  changes  of  the  moon.  Some  of  the 
signs  used  by  the  Indians  are  still  observed  by  persons  who 
believe  in  the  old  ways  of  gardening. 

Deciding  when  to  plant.  To  be  successful  a  gardener 
must  exercise  good  judgment  in  deciding  upon  the  proper 
date  to  plant  his  crop.  The  correct  date  one  year  may  be 
too  early  or  too  late  another  year.  As  weather  conditions 
vary  from  year  to  year,  it  is  wise  for  a  young  gardener 
to  advise  with  an  experienced  gardener  before  deciding 
upon  the  dates  for  planting  in  any  part  of  the  country. 

Planting  zones.  In  recent  years  planting  dates  have 
been  given  much  attention.  Those  making  a  study  of  the 
subject  have  noted  that  climatic  conditions  are  similar 
throughout  certain  portions  of  the  country.  Such  areas  are 
called  planting  zones.  The  eastern  part  of  our  country  has 
been  divided  into  seven  planting  zones.  On  our  map  these 
zones  are  called  A,  B,  C,  D,  E,  F,  G. 

The  dates  given  in  the  tables  for  planting  in  these  seven 
zones  are  average  dates  that  are  considered  best  for  planting ; 
therefore  dates  slightly  earlier  or  later  may  frequently  be 
used  with  an  average  chance  for  success. 

i  Part  of  the  information  contained  in  this  chapter  was  taken  from  the 
reports  of  the  United  States  Weather  Bureau  and  from  bulletins  of  the  United 
States  Department  of  Agriculture. 

5  65 


66  GARDEN  CROPS 

I.    EARLIEST   VEGETABLE   PLANTING   DATES   FOR   THE 
EASTERN    HALF   OF   THE   UNITED    STATES 

Vegetable  groups.  For  greater  convenience  in  study  the 
most  common  vegetables  are  arranged  in  four  groups  a? 
follows : 

Group  i.  Vegetables  that  may  be  planted  two  weeks 
before  the  last  killing  frost : 

Early  cabbage x         Mustard  Early  potatoes 

Collards  Onion  sets  Radishes 

Kale  Early  smooth  peas  Turnips 

Group  2.  Vegetables  that  may  be  planted  about  the 
date  of  the  last  killing  frost: 

Beets  Celery  seed      Onion  seed     Wrinkled  peas 

Chinese  cabbage     Sweet  corn      Parsley  Salsify 

Carrots  Lettuce  Parsnips  Spinach 

Cauliflower  plants 

Group  3.  Vegetables  that  should  be  planted  two  weeks 
after  the  last  killing  frost: 

vSnap  beans  Okra  Tomato  plants 

Group  4.  Vegetables  that  cannot  be  planted  until  the 
soil  is  well  warmed  up,  or  about  one  month  after  the  last 
hard  frost: 

Lima  beans  Eggplant  Pepper  plants  Squash 

Cucumbers  Melons  Sweet  potatoes 

Earliest  planting  dates.  The  following  table  shows  the 
earliest  safe  dates  for  planting  the  vegetables  of  these  four 
groups  in  the  open,  within  the  seven  zones  illustrated  on 
the  map  (Fig.  12).  These  dates  are  based  on  the  average 
dates  of  the  last  killing  frost  in  the  spring. 

1  Plants  from  hotbed  or  seed  box. 


PLANTING  DATES  EAST  OF  THE  MISSISSIPPI  67 

Planting   Dates   by   Vegetable   Groups 


Zone 

Group  1 

Group  2 

Group  3 

Group  4 

A 

Jan.  1  to  Feb  1. 

Feb.  1  to  Feb.  1 5 

Feb.  15  to  Mar.  1 

Mar.  1  to  Mar.  15 

B 

Feb.  1  to  Feb.  15 

Feb.  15  to  Mar.  1 

Mar.  1  to  Mar.  15 

Mar.  15  to  Apr.  1 

C 

Feb.  15  to  Mar.  1 

Mar.  1  to  Mar.  15 

Mar.  15  to  Apr.  1 

Apr.  1  to  Apr.  15 

D 

Mar.  1  to  Mar.  15 

Mar.  15  to  Apr.  15 

Apr.  1  to  May  1 

May  1  to  May  15 

E 

Mar.  15  to  Apr.  15 

Apr.  15  to  May  1 

May  1  to  May  15 

May  15  to  June  1 

F* 

Apr.  15  to  May  1 

May  1  to  May  15 

May  15  to  June  1 

May  15  to  June  15 

G* 

May  1  to  May  15 

May  15  to  June  1 

May  15  to  June  15 

It) 

*  For  the  crops  grown  in  these  zones. 


+  Season  too  short  for  this  group. 


Fig.  12.     A  zone  map  of  the  eastern  part  of  the  United  States  based  on 
the  average  dates  of  the  latest  killing  frosts  in  the  spring. 


68 


GARDEN  CROPS 


Use  of  the  map.  By  referring  to  the  map  to  find  the  zone 
in  which  he  lives  and  then  consulting  the  table  showing 
the  planting  dates  by  vegetable  groups,  the  gardener  may 
determine  the  proper  time  within  a  very  few  days  for 
planting  any  vegetable  included  in  the  four  groups. 

II.    LATEST   VEGETABLE   PLANTING   DATES   FOR   THE 
EASTERN   HALF    OF   THE    UNITED   STATES 

The  following  table  gives  the  latest  dates  on  which  it  is 
safe  to  plant  vegetables  for  fall  gardens  in  zones  C  to  G. 
It  is  based  on  the  accompanying  map   (Fig.  13). 

Latest  Safe  Dates  for  Planting  Vegetables  for  the  Fall  Garden 


Crop 


Beans,  bush 

Beans,   pole   lima 

Beets 

Cabbage 

Carrots 

Cauliflower 

Celery 

Corn,  sweet 

Cucumbers 

Kale 

Lettuce 

Parsley 

Peas 

Potatoes,  Irish .  .  . 
Potatoes,  sweet .  . 

Radishes 

Spinach 

Squash,  bush 

Squash,  vine 

Tomatoes 

Turnips 


Zone  C 

Sept.  15 
Sept.  15 
Sept.  15 
Sept.  1 
Sept.  1 
Sept.  1 
Oct.  1 
Aug.  15 
Aug.  15 
Nov.  1 
Nov.  1 
Nov.  1 
Nov.  1 
Aug.  15 
Aug.  15 
Oct.  15 
Oct.  15 
Aug.  15 
July  15 
Aug.  15 
Oct.  15 


Zone  D 


Sept.  1 
Aug.  1 
Sept.  1 
Aug.  15 
Aug.  15 
Aug.  15 
Sept.  1 
Aug.  1 
Aug.  1 
Oct.  1 
Oct.  15 
Oct.  1 
Oct.  1 
Aug.  1 
July  15 
Oct.  1 
Oct.  1 
Aug.  1 
July  1 
July  15 
Oct.  1 


Zone  E 


Aug.  15 

July  15 
Aug.  15 
July  15 
July  15 
July  15 
Aug.  1 
July  15 
July  15 
Sept.  15 
Oct.  1 
Sept.  1 
Sept.  1 

July  5 
June  15 
Sept.  15 
Sept.  1 
July  15 
June  15 
July  1 
Sept.  1 


Zone  F 


Aug.  1 
July  1 
Aug.  1 
July  1 
July  1 
July  1 
July  1 
July  1 
July  1 
Sept.  ] 
Sept.  15 
Aug.  1 
Aug.  1 
July  1 
May  1 
Sept.  1 
Aug.  15 
July  1 
June  1 
June  15 
Aug.  1 


ZoneG 


July  15 

July  15 
June  15 
June  15 
June  15 
May  15 
June  15 

Aug.  15 
Sept.  1 
July  1 
July  15 
June  15 

Aug.  15 
Aug.  1 
June  15 


July  15 


Days  neces- 
sary for 
maturing  in 
any  locality. 

40  to  65 

80  tO   120 

60  to  80 
90  to  130 
70  to  IOO 
100  to  130 
120  to  150 
60  to  IOO 
100  to  140 

90  to  120 

60  to  90 
90  to  120 
40  to  80 
80  to  140 
140  to  160 
20  to  40 
30  to  60 
60  to  80 

120  tO  160 

80  to  125 
60  to  80 


In  zones  A  and  B  many  vegetables  are  planted  late  in  the 
fall  for  the  winter  or  early  spring  garden.     The  dates  for 


PLANTING  DATES  EAST  OF  THE  MISSISSIPPI 


60 


planting  are  based  on  the  average  dates  of  the  first  killing 
frosts  in  the  fall.  The  period  necessary  for  maturing  each 
vegetable  is  indicated  in  the  foregoing  table. 


Fig.  13.     A  zone  map  of  the  eastern  part  of  the  United  States  based  on 
the  average  dates  of  the  first  killing  frost  in  the  fall. 


CHAPTER   XVI 

PLANTING  DATES  WEST  OF  THE  MISSISSIPPI 

Several  attempts  have  been  made  to  map  planting  zones 
for  that  section  of  our  country  lying  west  of  the  Mississippi. 
There  is  much  doubt  in  the  minds  of  many  persons  concern- 
ing the  success  that  will  result  from  these  efforts.  The 
difficulty  in  the  way  of  successfully  mapping  this  section 
lies  in  the  fact  that  because  of  the  mountainous  character 
of  the  country  the  altitude  varies  greatly  within  the  same 
state  and  sometimes  wide  variation  occurs  even  within  the 
same  county. 

The  United  States  Weather  Bureau  and  the  United  States 
Department  of  Agriculture  have  published  the  maps  in 
this  chapter,  giving  the  average  dates  of  the  last  killing 
frost  in  spring  and  the  first  killing  frost  in  fall  in  the  Rocky 
Mountains  and  further  west. 

I.    EARLIEST  VEGETABLE  PLANTING  DATES  FOR  THE 
WESTERN   HALF   OF   THE   UNITED   STATES 

The  first  map  (Fig.  14)  shows  the  average  dates  of  the 
last  killing  frost  in  spring  in  the  western  part  of  the  United 
States.  The  planting  of  the  vegetables  given  in  the  follow- 
ing groups  should  be  governed  by  the  frost  dates  shown  on 
the  map. 

Classification  of  Vegetable  groups.  For  convenience  in 
using  the  gardener's  planting  tables  we  repeat  the  classifi- 
cation of  vegetables  into  groups  given  on  page  66. 

70 


PLANTING  DATES  WEST  OF  THE  MISSISSIPPI 


7i 


Fig.  14.     Map  of  the  western  part  of  the  United  States,  showing  the 
average  dates  of  the  last  killing  frost  in  the  spring. 


72  GARDEN  CROPS 

Group  i.  Vegetables  that  may  be  planted  two  weeks 
before  the  last  killing  frost: 

Early  cabbage1  Mustard  Early  potatoes 

Collards  Onion  sets  Radishes 

Kale  Early  smooth  peas        Turnips 

Group  2.  Vegetables  that  may  be  planted  about  the 
date  of  the  last  killing  frost: 

Beets  Celery  seed      Onion  seed     Wrinkled  peas 

Chinese  cabbage     Sweet  corn      Parsley  Salsify 

Carrots  Lettuce  Parsnips  Spinach 

Cauliflower  plants 

Group  3.  Vegetables  that  should  be  planted  two  weeks 
after  the  last  killing  frost: 

Snap  beans  Okra  Tomato  plants 

Group  4.  Vegetables  that  cannot  be  planted  until  the 
soil  is  well  warmed  up,  or  about  one  month  after  the  last 
hard  frost : 

Lima  beans  Eggplant  Pepper  plants  Squash 

Cucumbers  Melons  Sweet  potatoes 

II.     LATEST  VEGETABLE  PLANTING  DATES  FOR  THE 
WESTERN  HALF  OF  THE  UNITED  STATES. 

The  map  (Fig.  15)  shows  the  average  dates  of  the  first 
killing  frost  in  the  fall  in  the  western  part  of  the  United 
States. 

There  is  also  an  accompanying  table  showing  the  time 
necessary  for  the  maturing  of  vegetables  in  any  locality. 
Knowing  the  average  dates  of  the  first  killing  frost  in  the 
fall  and  the  time  necessary  for  the  vegetables  to  mature, 

Plants  from  hotbed  or  seed  box. 


PLANTING  DATES  WEST  OF  THE  MISSISSIPPI 


73 


Fig.   15.     Map  of  the  western  part  of  the  United  States  showing  the 
average  dates  of  the  first  killing  frost  in  the  fall. 


74 


GARDEN  CROPS 


we  can  find  the  best  time  to  plant  any  vegetable  contained 
in  the  list.  As  has  already  been  suggested  (Chapter  XV), 
always  consult  experienced  persons  in  any  locality  before 
planting  either  in  the  spring  or  fall. 

Time  Necessary  for  Maturing  Vegetables  in  any  Locality 


Crops 


Period  necessary 
for  maturity 


Beans,  bush .  .  .  40  to  65  days 

Beans,  pole  lima. ...  80  to  120  days 

Beets 60  to  80  days 

Cabbage,  late 90  to  130  days 

Carrots 70  to  100  days 

Cauliflower 100  to  130  days 

Celery 120  to  150  days 

Corn,  sweet 60  to  100  days 

Cucumbers 60  to  80  days 

Kale 90  to  120  days 

Lettuce 60  to  90  days 


Crops 


Period 'necessary 
for  maturity 


Parsley 90  to  1 20  days 

Peas 40  to  80  days 

Potatoes,  Irish 80  to  140  days 

Potatoes,  sweet ....    140  to  160  days 

Radishes I  20  to  40  days 

Spinach 30  to  60  days 

Squash,  bush 60  to  80  days 

Squash,  vine '<  120  to  160  days 

Tomatoes 80  to  125  days 

Turnips 60  to  80  days 


CHAPTER   XVII 
THINNING   AND   REPLANTING   PLANTS 

Thinning.  We  may  use  the  very  best  possible  methods 
for  testing  and  planting  and  still  not  always  succeed  in 
getting  a  uniform  stand.  In  our  desire  to  get  a  sufficient 
number  of  plants  we  frequently  plant  the  seed  too  thick. 
Then  there  are  times  when  weather  conditions  are  so  favor- 
able for  germination  and  growth  that  even  inferior  seeds 
seem  to  produce  fairly  good  plants. 

These  conditions  often  make  it  necessary  to  thin  the 
plants  in  the  rows.  Thinning  the  plants  gives  the  gardener 
an  opportunity  to  eradicate  or  get  rid  of  all  weak  and  inferior 
plants. 

Thinning  will  allow  ample  room  for  all  plants  to  grow 
and  will  insure  their  natural  development.  It  also  insures 
large  and  uniform  specimens.  Plants  like  carrots,  beets, 
radishes,  turnips,  salsify,  and  onions  cannot  grow  and 
develop  smooth  roots  if  crowded.  Other  garden  crops  will 
also  be  improved  by  thinning. 

For  the  proper  distance  that  should  be  allowed  between 
plants  in  the  rows  consult  the  Gardeners'  Planting  Tables 
in  Chapter  VIII. 

Replanting.  Sometimes  it  is  desirable  to  replant  vacant 
spaces  in  the  garden.  This  is  just  the  opposite  of  thinning. 
We  should  replant  as  soon  as  we  discover  that  the  seed  sown 
has  not  sprouted  or  that  the  plants  set  out  have  died  or 
been  destroyed  by  insects.  Replanting  is  made  necessary 
by  poor  seed,  unfavorable  weather  conditions,  or  improper 

75 


76  GARDEN  CROPS 

planting.     It  helps  to  utilize  all  garden  space  and  to  secure 
maximum  crop  yields. 

In  replanting,  place  the  new  plants  as  nearly  as  possible 
in  the  spot  where  the  former  seed  or  plants  failed  to  grow. 
The  plants  may  sometimes  be  obtained  from  crowded  rows 
that  must  be  thinned.  Where  seeds  are  used  for  replanting 
soak  them  a  few  hours  in  warm  water,  so  that  they  will 
germinate  more  quickly. 

STUDY    OUTLINE 

i.  Give  two  causes  contributing  to  make  plants  grow  too  thick. 

2.  What  advantage  has  the  gardener  who  has  surplus  plants  in  his 
rows? 

3.  Name  some  plants  that  are  injured  by  crowding. 

4.  What  conditions  make  it  necessary  to  replant? 

5.  Why  should  we  replant  vacant  garden  space? 

6.  When  should  replanting  be  done? 

7.  Where  should  the  new  plants  be  placed? 

8.  Suggest  an  economical  and  easy  way  to  obtain  plants  for  replanting. 

9.  Why  should  we  soak  seeds  that  are  to  be  used  for  replanting? 

HOME    AND    COMMUNITY    WORK 

1 .  Visit  two  or  three  gardeners  in  your  neighborhood  and  where  plants 
came  up  too  thick  ask  what  they  think  are  the  reasons. 

2.  Find  out,  if  possible,  the  principal  source  from  which  they  obtained 
plants  for  replanting. 


CHAPTER   XVIII 
GROWING   AND   TRANSPLANTING  PLANTS 

Window  boxes.  Garden  plants  may  be  grown  in  a 
limited  way  from  seeds  sown  in  shallow  boxes  set  in  a 
sunny  window  of  a  dwelling  house.  The  soil  used  should  be 
obtained  in  the  fall  and  should  be  rich  and  mellow. 

Plant  the  seed  in  rows  in  the  box.  Mark  on  the  box  at 
the  end  of  each  row  the  kind  and  variety  of  seed  planted. 
When  the  plants  have  two  or  three  leaves  transplant  them 
to  other  boxes,  setting  them  2  or  3  inches  apart  (Fig.  16). 
This  will  enable  them  to  grow  more  rapidly  and  to  develop 
a  good  root  system  before  being  again  transplanted  to  the 
cold  frame  or  garden. 

Transplanting  for  succession  crops.  Some  gardeners 
transplant  from  the  first  box  to  small  individual  pots  or 
berry  boxes.  When  this  is  done  the  plants  may  be  taken 
later  from  these  pots  or  boxes  and  transplanted  without 
destroying  their  root  system  or  retarding  their  growth.  If 
this  plan  is  carefully  followed  a  garden  may  be  planted  with 
good  sized  plants  at  an  early  date.  We  may  also  plan  our 
box  planting  so  that  later-crop  plants  may  be  ready  for 
the  garden  as  rapidly  as  the  early  crops  have  been  harvested. 
For  example,  pepper  and  tomato  plants  should  be  ready  to 
set  out  in  the  garden  as  soon  as  the  earliest  lettuce  and 
radishes  have  been  used.  Care,  however,  should  be  exer- 
cised in  planting  out  tender  plants  like  the  tomato  and 
pepper,  as  they  are  liable  to  be  killed  by  frost.     It  is  wise 

77 


78 


GARDEN    CROPS 


also  to  cover  the  newly  set  out  plants  at  night  with  news- 
papers or  paper  caps  until  all  danger  of  frost  is  past  (Fig.  17). 
How  to  transplant.  Before  plants  are  taken  out  of  boxes 
or  cold  frames  they  should  be  thoroughly  watered,  so  that 
soil  will  adhere  to  the  roots.  After  they  are  taken  from 
the  frames  or  boxes  they  should  be  set  out  at  once.  But 
if  this  is  impossible,  they  can  be  kept  a  few  hours  by 
covering  them  with  a  damp  cloth,  which  prevents  wilting. 


Fig.    16.     Seedlings  ready  to  be  transplanted  to  other  containers,  where 

they  will  have  more  room  to  grow  and  develop  a  good  root  system 

before  it  is  time  to  set  the  plants  out  in  the  garden. 

Watering  the  plants.  If  the  soil  is  very  dry  at  the  time 
of  transplanting,  all  plants  should  be  watered  out.  This 
may  be  done  by  making  the  holes  and  filling  them  with 
water  a  few  minutes  before  you  are  ready  to  begin  trans- 
planting. Fill  the  hole  about  one  fourth  full  of  fine  soil 
before  pouring  the  water  into  it.  Place  the  plant  roots  in 
the  damp  soil  at  the  bottom  of  the  hole  and  press  the  soil 
firmly  about  the  roots.     Then  cover  all  damp  earth  with 


GROWING   AND   TRANSPLANTING    PLANTS 


79 


dry  soil.  This  will  help  hold  the  moisture  until  the  plant 
takes  root.  When  transplanting  plants  to  the  garden  some 
gardeners  apply  water  to  the  roots  after  setting  out  the 
plant  but  before  all  the  soil  is  filled  in.  Water  should 
never  be  poured  over  the  surface  of  the  soil  about  newly 
transplanted  plants.  If  the  plants  have  too  much  foliage 
some   of   the   leaves   should   be   removed   to   prevent   their 


Fig.  17.     A  frosty  evening  in  early  spring.     Protecting  newly  trans- 
planted tomato  plants  from  frost  by  setting  over  them  these  little 
paper    caps    may    save    the    gardener    an  entire  crop. 

evaporating  more  moisture  than  the  roots  are  able  to  take 
up.  All  transplanting  should  be  done  late  in  the  afternoon 
or  in  the  evening. 

If  the  weather  is  cool  and  there  is  sufficient  rainfall  at 
the  time  of  transplanting,  the  plants  will  soon  be  growing 
well  in  their  new  location.     If  the  weather  is  hot  and  the 


8o  GARDEN   CROPS 

soil  very  dry,  all  transplanted  plants  should  be  thoroughly 
watered  once  a  week,  until  they  begin  to  show  signs  of 
growing. 

STUDY    OUTLINE 
i.  Suggest  a  simple  method  of  growing  garden  plants  in  the  home. 

2.  How  are  plants  that  are  grown  in  small  seed  boxes  in  the  house 
transplanted  to  other  containers? 

3.  What  is  meant  by  watering   out?     Why    are    plants   sometimes 
watered  out?     Describe  the  process. 

4.  How  may  plants  for  transplanting  be  kept  from  wilting  before  they 
are  set  out? 

5.  When  is  the  best  time  of  day  to  transplant  plants? 

HOME    AND    COMMUNITY    WORK 
1 .  What  ways  of  growing  plants  in  the  house  are  most  commonly  used 
in  your  community? 


CHAPTER   XIX 
TILLAGE   AND    THE    USE    OF   TOOLS 

Many  boys  and  girls  have  been  known  to  follow  nearly 
every  suggestion  we  have  thus  far  made  and  then  fail 
with  their  garden.  This  unfortunate  outcome  was  the 
result  of  what  is  sometimes  called  "garden  fever."  Early 
in  the  spring  the  children  would  be  very  anxious  to  have  an 
excellent  garden,  but  later  in  the  season  when  the  sun  be- 
came very  hot  they  would  abandon  the  entire  project.  To 
make  a  success  the  gardener  must  stick  to  his  task  regardless 
of  how  hot  the  sun  shines  or  how  busy  he  may  be  with  other 
work.  In  other  words,  the  garden  must  have  proper  care 
through  frequent  cultivation  with  suitable  tools. 

Tillage.  Stirring  or  cultivating  the  land  to  make  it 
suitable  for  growing  plants  is  called  tillage. 

The  soil  should  be  cultivated  or  tilled  shortly  after  each 
rain  in  order  to  break  the  crust  and  keep  a  covering  of  dust 
to  conserve  the  moisture.  Never  work  the  soil  when  it  is 
too  wet.  It  should  be  dry  enough  to  crumble  in  the  hands 
before  you  try  to  use  a  garden  plow  or  hand  hoe. 

Stir  the  soil  regularly  and  thoroughly  throughout  the 
season.  Gardeners  occasionally  neglect  to  do  this  during 
dry  periods.  Try  to  keep  the  earth  very  fine  and  loose  on 
the  surface.  This  fine,  loose,  dry  soil  is  called  a  dust 
mulch.  Even  if  a  mulch  is  already  present  the  garden  will 
be  benefited  by  regular   cultivation. 

While  the  vegetables  are  small  cultivate  close  to  the 
plants  and  as  deep  as  the  roots  extend  into  the  soil.  As 
6  81 


82 


GARDEN    CROPS 


they  grow  larger  cultivation  should  become  more  shallow 
and  farther  away  from  the  row.     Cultivate  at  regular  inter- 


Fig.  1 8.     Common  tools  every  gardener  needs  in  his  work. 

vals  until  the  plants  are  large  enough  to  interfere.  In  a 
small  garden  a  hand  hoe  or  weeder  may  be  used  if  further 
stirring  seems  necessary. 

If  a  hard  crust  forms  over  the  surface  soon  after  the  seeds 
are  planted  it  will  retard  their  growth  and  keep  them  from 
coming  up.  Therefore  cultivate  the  top  of  the  soil  lightly 
to  break  the  crust  and  enable  the  sprout  to  push  through 
the  earth. 

Advantages  of  tillage.  The  advantages  to  be  derived  from 
cultivation  or  tillage  other  than  the  formation  of  a  dust 
mulch  are: 


TILLAGE    AND    THE   USE    OF    TOOLS 


83 


i.   Improved  physical  condition  of  soil. 

2.  Increased  quantity  and  availability  of  plant  food. 

3.  Warmer  soil. 

4.  Better  ventilation,  more  air  reaching  the  plant  roots. 

5.  More  thorough  blending  of  fertilizers  with  soil. 

6.  Destruction  of  insects  and  weeds  injurious  to  garden 
plants. 

Common  garden  tools.     The  tools  most  commonly  used 
in  the  cultivation  and  care  of  the  home  and  school  garden 


Fig.  19.     A  Minnesota  lad  tilling  his  onion  field  with  a  tractor  cultivator. 

This  boy  follows  the   most  approved  methods  of  gardening 
and  uses  the  best  tools.     His  crop  shows  it. 

are  the  hand  weeder,  hoe,  rake,  wheel  hoe,   spade,  garden 
line,  measuring  line,  trowel,  and  shovel  (Fig.  18).     Tractor 


84 


GARDEN   CROPS 


cultivators  are  sometimes  used  where  gardeners  have  large 
areas  of  special  crops  under  cultivation  (Fig.  19). 

Use  of  tools.  The  hand  weeder  is  a  rake-like  tool  used 
to  stir  the  soil  between  rows  and  plants.  The  hand  hoe  is 
also  used  for  cultivation  between  the  rows  as  well  as  between 


Fig.  20.     Cultivating  a  garden  with  a  wheel  hoe.     Evidently  the  soil  is 

dry  and  hard  but  the  effort  required  to  push  the  hoe  does  not 

discourage  this  determined  young  gardener. 

the  plants.  The  hand  rake  is  used  for  leveling  the  surface, 
raking  of!  the  clods  and  making  the  soil  fine  for  planting 
small  seeds. 

The  wheel  hoe  is  mounted  on  wheels  and  is  equipped  with 
several  different  kinds  of  shovels  which  may  be  changed  as 
conditions  demand  (Fig.  20).  It  is  used  to  cultivate  between 
the  rows  and  also  for  making  the  garden  ready  to  plant.  It 
is  considered  one  of  the  most  valuable  of  our  garden  tools. 
The  spade  and  the  shovel  are  for  digging  up  and  leveling  the 


TILLAGE  AND   THE   USE   OF   TOOLS  85 

soil.  The  trowel  is  used  for  transplanting  young  plants, 
and  the  garden  line  is  useful  in  keeping  the  rows  straight 
and  thus  giving  the  garden  a  neat  appearance. 


STUDY    OUTLINE 

1 .  Define  tillage. 

2.  Why  should  soil  be  cultivated  soon  after  a  rain? 

3.  What  is  a  dust  mulch?     Of  what  use  is  it? 

4.  Give  six  advantages  derived  from  cultivation. 

5.  Name  the  tools  commonly  used  to  cultivate  the  garden. 

6.  Tell  the  use  of  each. 

HOME    AND    COMMUNITY    WORK 

1.  Describe  the  methods  used  in  the  cultivation  of  garden  crops  in 
four  gardens  near  your  home. 

2.  How  many  of  these  gardens  were  covered  with  a  dust  mulch? 

3.  What  tools  were  used  by  each  gardener? 


CHAPTER   XX 
WATERING   THE    GARDEN 

One  of  the  gardener's  greatest  problems  is  providing  an 
ample  supply  of  water  in  dry  weather.  This  problem  can- 
not be  overlooked  since  the  growth  of  crops  depends  upon 
the  plants  receiving  enough  water  during  the  growing  season. 
Plant  food  must  be  in  solution,  or  dissolved,  before  it  can  be 
absorbed.  It  cannot  be  dissolved  unless  the  soil  receives 
water  naturally  or  artificially.  Giving  additional  water  to 
the  soil  to  aid  the  growth  of  plants  is  called  watering  or 
irrigation. 

Artificial  watering.  There  are  many  different  methods 
for  applying  water  artificially  to  the  garden.  Among  the 
means  employed  some  of  the  most  practical  are  garden 
hose,  tin  cans,  sub-irrigation,  the  trench  system,  and  the 
overhead  sprinkling  system. 

Garden  hose.  When  garden  hose  is  used  for  watering 
the  garden,  sprinkle  the  ground  thoroughly  at  night. 

Tin  cans.  Watering  is  sometimes  done  by  means  of  cans 
placed  in  the  plant  hills.  Dig  a  hole  the  size  of  the  can  in  the 
hill  before  the  seed  is  planted  or  the  plant  set  out.  Perforate 
the  sides  and  bottom  of  the  can  with  nails  so  that  the  water 
will  seep  out  and  reach  the  soil.  Place  the  can  in  the  hole. 
Plant  the  seed  or  plant  by  the  side  of  the  can,  and  whenever 
the  ground  becomes  dry  pour  water  into  the  can. 

Sub-irrigation.  Probably  sub-irrigation  is  the  best  method 
of  applying  water.  The  system  is  rather  expensive  to  install 
but  it  is  permanent.     In  this  system  the  water  reaches  the 

86 


WATERING   THE   GARDEN 


87 


roots  from  below  the  surface  and  prevents  the  soil  from 
baking.  Trenches  18  to  24  inches  deep  and  3  feet  apart 
are  dug  across  the  garden.  In  these  trenches  drain  tiles,  or 
four  laths  so  nailed  as  to  form  rectangular  tubes,  are  placed 
end  to  end.  At  certain  places  these  tiles  or  lath  tubes  are 
brought  to  the  surface  and  water  is  poured  into  them  by 
means  of  a  garden  hose.  The  water  reaches  the  soil  by 
escaping  between  the  ends  of  the  tiles  or  by  leaking  through 


Fig.  21.  Watering  sweet  com  with  garden  hose  and  trench  system. 
Notice  the  distance  of  the  trench  from  the  corn  rows.  Where  plants 
have  less  wide-spreading  roots  the  trench  may  be  closer  to  the  rows. 

the  lath  tubes.     After  reaching  the  soil  it  climbs  toward 

the  surface  and  is  then  taken  up  by  the  roots  of  the  plants. 

Trench  system  of  irrigation.     In  the  trench  system  of 

irrigation  the  trenches  should  be  dug  close  enough  to  the 


88 


GARDEN    CROPS 


rows  so  that  the  water  will  serve  the  plants,  yet  not  close 
enough  to  disturb  the  roots  (Fig.  21).     Water  may  be  run 


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Fig.  22.     A  garden  in  Dayton,  Ohio,  that  is  watered  by  the  overhead 
sprinkling  system.     Notice  the  flourishing  appearance  of  the  crop. 

into  the  trenches  with  a  hose  as  often  as  it  is  needed.  This 
is  the  best  system  for  amateurs  to  use,  since  the  water  is 
below  the  roots  and  insures  a  deep  root  system.  The 
trenches  should  be  covered  after  watering. 

Overhead  sprinkling.  The  overhead  method  of  sprinkling 
involves  installing  a  system  of  galvanized  pipes  extending 
lengthwise  over  the  area  to  be  watered.  These  pipes  may 
be  used  in  16-foot  lengths,  fastened  together  and  mounted 
upon  posts.  A  series  of  small  holes  are  drilled  in  the  pipes 
every  3   or  4   feet,  and  small  nozzles  inserted  in  the  holes. 


WATERING  THE   GARDEN  89 

The  pipes  are  connected  with  the  water  supply.  When 
the  water  is  turned  into  the  pipes  fine  sprays  issue  from  each 
nozzle.  Different  sections  of  the  garden  may  be  watered 
by  shifting  the  pipes.  One  16-foot  length  of  pipe  will  water 
a  strip  of  ground  16  feet  long  and  about  40  or  50  feet  wide. 
This  system  of  sprinkling  distributes  the  water  gently, 
evenly,  and  thoroughly  over  the  entire  garden  (Fig.    22). 

Quantity  of  water  applied.  No  matter  what  system  is 
used,  a  thorough  application  of  water  once  a  week  is  better 
than  a  light  application  each  evening.  Cultivation  should 
follow  as  soon  as  possible  after  the  water  has  been  applied. 
This  will  produce  a  dust  mulch  which  will  retain  the  moisture 
in  the  soil. 

STUDY    OUTLINE 

1.  Upon  what  does  the  proper  growth  of  plants  largely  depend,  and 
why? 

2.  What  is  watering? 

3.  Name  five  methods  by  which  the  garden  may  be  watered  and 
describe  each. 

4.  Why  should  cultivation  follow  the  use  of  water? 

HOME    AND    COMMUNITY    WORK 

i.  What  system  of  watering  do  you  use  at  your  own  home? 

2.  What  systems  are  used  in  your  neighborhood? 

3.  Which  seems  to  be  the  most  satisfactory? 


CHAPTER   XXI 
PROTECTING   THE   GARDEN   PRODUCTS 

Many  garden  plants  are  destroyed  by  rabbits,  sparrows, 
dogs,  eats,  moles,  and  chickens.  The  young  gardener,  there- 
fore, should  be  prepared  to  protect  his  crops  from  these 
intruders. 

Cheesecloth  frames.  One  of  the  best  means  of  pro- 
tecting young  plants  from  these  enemies,  as  well  as  from 
insect  pests,  is  the  cheesecloth  frame.  These  frames  may 
be  made  in  small  squares  to  cover  the  individual  hills  or, 
if  preferred,  in  lengths  that  will  cover  several  hills.  Hill 
frames  are  made  2  or  3  feet  square.  To  make  the  frame 
use  4  thin  pine  boards,  6  inches  wide,  nail  them  together  at 
the  ends,  and  tack  cheesecloth  over  them.  When  cheese- 
cloth frames  are  to  cover  an  entire  row  they  may  be  made 
in  sections  10  to  12  feet  long  and  4  feet  wide. 

Light  brush.  Some  protection  may  be  furnished  plants 
by  placing  light  brush  over  them.  The  brush  must  not 
be  too  thick  or  it  will  exclude  the  light. 

Bright  or  shining  objects.  Strips  of  tin,  or  tin  cans  sus- 
pended from  poles,  placed  in  the  garden  will  sometimes  keep 
birds  from  injuring  garden  crops.  This  is  because  of  the 
bright  sun  shining  upon  the  tin.  Three  or  four  cans  or 
strips  of  tin  should  be  tied  together  so  that  the  noise  result- 
ing from  their  striking  against  each  other  as  they  sway  in 
the  wind  will  also  tend  to  frighten  the  birds  away. 

90 


PROTECTING  THE  GARDEN  PRODUCTS        91 

Mole  traps.     Mole  traps  set  in  mole  runs  are  useful  in 
catching  and  destroying  these  animals  (Fig.  23). 


Fig.  23.     The   result  of   using  a  mole  trap.     This  troublesome  little 
animal  will  never  damage  a  garden  again. 

Wire  fencing.  If  the  garden  is  enclosed  with  a  wire 
fence  5  or  6  feet  high,  dogs,  chickens  and  cats  will  probably 
not  damage  the  crops.  Wire  fencing  with  a  fine  mesh  is 
best  suited  for  this  purpose. 

STUDY    OUTLINE 

1.  Tell  about  cheesecloth  frames  and  how  they  are  used  to  protect 
the  garden. 

2.  In  what  way  may  brush  be  used  to  protect  the  garden  from  birds? 

3.  What  good  should  result  from  the  use  of  shining  objects  in  the 
garden? 

4.  How  are  moles  caught? 

5.  Should  a  garden  be  surrounded  by  a  fence?     If  so,  why? 

HOME    AND    COMMUNITY    WORK 

i.  What  plans  are  used  at  your  home  to  afford  protection  to  the 
garden  crops? 

2.  Are  any  other  means  used  in  your  community  to  protect  garden 
crops  beside  the  ones  just  mentioned?     If  so,  describe  them. 


CHAPTER   XXII 
GARDEN   RECORDS 

The  gardener  should  keep  careful  records  of  all  garden  oper- 
ations. A  record  of  everything  done  in  the  garden  should 
be  made  just  as  soon  as  the  day's  work  is  over  (Fig.  24). 

In  order  to  judge  of  the  profits  obtained  from  the  garden 
a  careful  account  should  be  kept  of  the  following  items: 

EXPENSES 

1.  A  charge  of  10  cents  per  hour  for  each  child's  labor. 

2 .  A  charge  of  2  5  cents  per  hour  for  adult  labor. 

3.  A  charge  of  30  cents  per  hour  for  horse  labor.     If  it  is 

necessary  to  hire  a  horse  charge  actual  cost. 

4.  Tractor  labor,  where  used,  at  actual  cost. 

5.  Any  charge  for  the  labor  of  a  man  to  aid  in  plowing. 

6.  Fertilizers  and  stable  manure  at  actual  cost.     If  stable 

manure  is  taken  from  home  barns  charge  $1.00  for 
one-horse  loads  and  $2.00  for  two-horse  loads. 

7.  Seeds  and  plants  at  actual  cost,  or  their  real  value  in  the 

market  if  produced  at  home. 

8.  Tools,   cans,   and   other   equipment   on  hand   should   be 

charged  at  one-third  their  market  value. 

9.  Any  other  item  of  expense  you  may  have  incurred. 

RECEIPTS 

Cash  received  from  sale  of  products. 
Cash  received  from  sale  of  canned  goods. 

3.  Value  of  products  used  in  the  home. 

4.  Value  of  canned  products  to  be  used  in  the  home. 

5.  Any  other  cash  or  value  received  from  the  garden. 

92 


GARDEN  RECORDS 


93 


Keep  a  copy  of  the  garden  plan  you  used.  Indicate  on 
it  the  length  of  rows  (or  size  of  beds),  the  names  of  fruits 
or  vegetables  planted,  the  date  when  each  variety  and  type 
was  planted,  cultivated,  thinned,  and  harvested  (Fig.  25). 

Careful  record  should  be  kept  of  the  amount  of  fruit  or 
vegetables  canned,  pickled,  preserved,  stored,  and  the  date 
when  each  was  so  conserved. 

The  gardener  should  also  keep  a  record  of  all  the  best 
varieties  as  well  as  all  the  best  combinations  for  companion 
and  succession  cropping  systems.     The  keeping  qualities  of 


Fig.  24.     Records  and  market  prices.     With  an  eye  to  business  these 
young  gardeners  consult  the  market  reports  before  entering 
the  day}s  record  in  their  garden  book. 

fruits  and  vegetables,  the  results  gained  from  the  use  of 
different  grades  of  fertilizers,  crop  rotation   systems,  and  the 


94 


GARDEN   CROPS 


Fig.  25.     A  practical  lesson  on  how  to  keep  a  garden  record.      This  is 
an  important  part  of  the  work  of  gardening. 

kinds  of  spraying  materials  found  to  be  most  satisfactory, 
should  become  a  part  of  the  garden  records. 

STUDY    OUTLINE 

1 .  What  records  should  be  kept  in  connection  with  the  receipts  received 
from  the  sale  and  use  of  garden  products? 

2.  Name  the  expense  items  that  should  be  accounted  for  in  any  garden 
record. 

3.  What  other  records  should  be  included  in  a  daily  record  book  by 
an  efficient  keeper  of  garden  records? 

HOME    AND    COMMUNITY    WORK 
i.  Did  you  keep  a  record  of  your  garden  work  during  the  past  year? 

If  so,  what  items  did  you  set  down  in  your  book? 

2.  Inquire  of  five  persons  in  your  neighborhood  and  learn  how  many 

keep  records  of  all  their  garden  operations. 


CHAPTER   XXIII 
SPRAYING   FOR   INSECTS   AND   PLANT   DISEASES 

I.    INSECTS 

The  history  of  most  insects  may  be  divided  into  four 
periods :  First,  the  egg  which  hatches  into  a  worm-like  animal 
called  the  larva.  Most  larvae  are  green.  Daring  the  larva 
or  second  stage  of  development  the  insect  grows  rapidly  and 
therefore  requires  a  great  quantity  of  food.  It  is  during 
this  stage  that  the  insect  does  the  most  damage  to  garden 
crops  and  that  we  can  most  successfully  undertake  to 
destroy  it.  When  the  larva  attains  its  full  development  it 
seeks  some  secluded  place  and  spins  a  cocoon  about  itself. 
Within  this  cocoon  or  enclosure  the  insect  passes  its  third 
or  pupal  stage  of  development.  During  this  stage  a  com- 
plete change  takes  place.  The  larva  enters  the  stage  as  a 
worm-like  animal,  but  emerges  into  the  fourth  stage  as  a 
fully  developed  insect. 

True  insects.  A  true  insect  is  a  small  creature  which  in 
the  adult  stage  has  rather  a  hard  body.  The  body  is  divided 
into  three  parts  —  the  head,  thorax  or  chest,  and  abdomen. 
True  insects  have  a  single  pair  of  feelers  or  antennae,  three 
pairs  of  legs,  and  usually  one  or  two  pairs  of  wings. 

True  insects  that  are  injurious.  Some  true  insects  that 
are  injurious  to  garden  crops  are  beetles,  butterflies,  moths, 
sawflies,  grasshoppers,  plantbugs,  thrips,  and  plant  lice. 

Other  injurious  insects.  There  are  other  tiny  animals 
popularly  known  as  insects  that  injure  garden  crops.  Some 
of  these  are  sowbugs,  red  spiders,  and  mites. 

95 


96 


GARDEN   CROPS 


Chewing  and  sucking  insects.  Insects  are  classified  as 
chewing,  or  biting,  and  sucking.  Chewing  insects  eat  the 
leaves  and  other  parts  of  the  plant.  Sucking  insects  injure 
plants  by  sucking  away  their  juices. 

Sprays  for  chewing  insects.  Since  chewing  insects  bite, 
chew,  and  swallow  the  leaves  and  stems  of  plants,  they  may 
be  killed  by  placing  poison  upon  the  plants  which  they 
attack.     The  insects  take  the  poison  into  their  stomachs 


IP 


r«*. 


*>~*^_j 


Fig.  26.     Enemy  insects.     A,  tomato  worm;  B,  tomato  worm  at  work; 
C  and  D,  potato  beetles;  E,  a  sprayer  to  destroy  these  enemies. 

with  the  portion  of  the  plant  eaten.  Arsenicals,  including 
Paris  green  and  arsenate  of  lead,  are  recommended  to  kill 
chewing  insects.  Cabbage  and  tomato  worms  and  potato 
beetles  are  common  examples  of  chewing  insects  (Fig.  26). 
Treatment  for  sucking  insects.  The  sucking  insect 
procures  its  food  by  inserting  its  beak  into  the  tissues  of  the 


SPRAYING   FOR   INSECTS  AND   PLANT   DISEASES 


97 


stems  or  leaves  of  plants  and  sucking  out  the  juices,  the  loss 
of  which  causes  the  plant  to  die.  Since  the  source  of  the 
food  supply  of  these  insects  lies  beyond  the  reach  of  poison- 
ous sprays  they  cannot  be  destroyed  by  poisons  placed 
upon  the  plants.  Therefore  to  kill  this  class  of  insects  it 
is  necessary  to  use  some  strong  spray  that  will  kill  them 
when  it  comes  in  contact  with  their  bodies.  Soaps,  pyreth- 
rum,  and  kerosene  emulsion  are  some  of  the  sprays  used  for 
this  purpose.  The  squash  bug  and  the  aphis  are  examples 
of  sucking  insects. 

When   to    spray   plants.     To   check  both   chewing   and 
sucking  insects,  plants  should  be  sprayed  as  soon  as  any 


Fig.  27.     Armed  for  battle.    These  pupils  are  all  ready  for  a  practical 
lesson  in  spraying  for  insect  and  plant  diseases. 

injury  is  noticed  or  as  soon  as  insects  are  seen.     Repeat 
the  treatments  until  the  insects  disappear. 

7 


98  GARDEN   CROPS 

Liquid  and  dry  sprays.  Liquid  sprays  may  be  applied 
to  garden  crops  by  using  an  ordinary  sprinkling  can,  but 
a  force  pump  or  a  good  hand  is  better.  A  hand  atomizer 
will  answer  very  well  as  a  sprayer  for  the  small  garden 
(Figs.  27  and  28). 

Poisons  in  powder  form  are  distributed  upon  plants  by 
means  of  a  dust  bag  or  can,  or  by  an  automatic  dusting 
machine.  An  easy  way  to  spray  with  dry  Paris  green,  or 
other  poisons  in  powder  form,  is  to  puncture  an  old  can  with 
a  small  nail,  and  tie  it  to  a  stick  or  pole.  Then  fill  the  can 
with  the  poison,  and  by  striking  the  pole  lightly  the  Paris 
green  will  be  jarred  out  upon  the  plants.  Dry  poisons  are 
most  successfully  applied  when  the  leaves  are  wet  with  dew. 
Always  see  that  plants  are  thoroughly  covered  with  the 
poison  whether  in  liquid  or  dry  form. 

II.     PLANT  DISEASES 

Fungi  and  bacteria.  Plant  diseases  which  cause  the 
greatest  injury  to  garden  crops  are  due  to  fungi  and  bacteria. 
Fungi  and  bacteria  are  plants  that  live  on  or  in  our  vege- 
tables and  fruits  and  feed  upon  the  crop  plants,  causing 
blights,  rots,  scabs,  and  spots.  They  multiply  by  means  of 
spores  instead  of  seeds.  These  spores  are  spread  by  wind, 
water,  or  insects.  The  spores  germinate  and  grow,  starting 
a  new  center  of  the  disease. 

Preventing  plant  diseases.  Some  of  the  ways  to  guard 
against  plant  diseases  caused  by  fungi  and  bacteria  are  by 
rotating  garden  crops,  by  keeping  all  weeds  out  of  the 
garden,  by  destroying  fruits  and  vegetables  as  soon  as  they 
decay  and  by  being  careful  to  avoid  injuring  the  plants 
through  breaking  the  leaves  or  stems. 


SPRAYING  FOR   INSECTS  AND   PLANT   DISEASES 


99 


Spraying  with  Bordeaux  mixture.  The  chief  remedy  for 
the  control  of  fungous  diseases  of  vegetables  and  fruits 
is  to  spray  them  with  a  compound  of  blue  vitriol,  lime,  and 
water  called  Bordeaux  mixture.  These  ingredients  can  be 
purcjhas.ed  at  the 
store  and  prepared 
at  home.  Bordeaux 
mixture  may  be 
applied  with  the  hand 
atomizer  sprayer. 
Use  the  sprayer  be- 
fore a  rain  rather  than 
after,  as  this  gives 
the  spray  time  to  dry 
on  the  leaves.  More 
applications  are  need- 
ed in  wet  weather 
than  in  dry.  During 
wet  weather,  espe- 
cially when  heavy 
dews  and  fogs  are 
common,  spray  every 
three  or  four  days. 
In  dry  weather  spray- 
ing every  eight  or  ten 
days  will  keep  the 
plants  protected.  For  directions  for  the  preparation  and 
use  of  Bordeaux  mixture  consult  Chapter  XXXVII. 

Sprays  for  each  crop.  In  later  chapters  the  gardener 
will  find  spraying  suggestions  for  the  treatment  of  insects 
and  plant  diseases  in  connection  with  each  crop  discussed. 


Fig.  28.   Spraying  plants  to  prevent  diseases. 

Gardeners  learn  early  that  ilan  ounce  of 

prevention  is  worth  a  pound  of  cure  " 


ioo  GARDEN    CROPS 

STUDY    OUTLINE 

i.  Describe  the  four  stages  through  which  the  insect  passes  in  com- 
pleting its  life  history. 

2.  What  is  a  true  insect?     Name  some  which  injure  garden  crops. 

3.  What  other  small  animals  commonly  spoken  of  as  insects  injure 
garden  crops? 

4.  Into  what  two  forms  are  insects  classified? 

5.  How  may  we  poison  chewing  insects? 

6.  Name  three  examples  of  this  class  of  insects. 

7.  How  are  sucking  insects  destroyed? 

8.  Name  two  insects  of  this  class. 

q.  How  are  liquid  sprays  applied  to  plants?     How  are  dry  sprays 
applied? 

10.  What  causes  plant  diseases? 

11.  How  do  fungi  and  bacteria  multiply? 

1 2.  How  may  plant  diseases  be  prevented? 

13.  What  remedy  is  used  to  control  fungous  diseases? 

HOME    AND    COMMUNITY    WORK 
i.  What  insects  are  most  numerous  in  the  gardens  of  your  community? 

2.  Classify  the  most  common  ones  under  chewing  and  sucking  kinds. 

3.  What  materials  have  been  used  to  destroy  these  insects? 

4.  What  means  other  than  spraying  have  been  used  to  rid  the  gardens 
of  insects? 

5.  How  do  the  gardeners  distribute  the  poisons  over  the  plants? 

6.  What  plant  diseases  are  most  troublesome  in  your  neighborhood? 

7.  What  means  are  taken  to  control  them? 


CHAPTER   XXIV 
PROTECTING   GARDEN   CROPS   FROM   FROST 

The  growing  season  for  garden  crops  may  be  lengthened 
by  providing  protection  against  frost  in  early  spring  and 
late  fall.  It  often  happens  that  frost  occurs  on  one  night 
only,  after  which  the  weather  continues  warm  for  a  long 
period.  To  save  the  plants  during  this  one  night  means 
increased  garden  production. 

During  the  periods  when  frost  is  likely  to  occur,  the 
gardener  should  give  attention  to  the  weather  forecasts  and 
frost  warnings  sent  out  by  the  United  States  Weather 
Bureau. 

How  plants  may  be  protected  from  frost.  There  are 
many  devices  or  plans  for  protecting  garden  crops  against 
frost.  These  include  cheesecloth  frames,  muslin,  news- 
papers, tin  cans,  boxes,  barrels,  fruit  cartons,  and  patented 
devices  used  to  cover  the  plants.  Hay  and  straw,  if  avail- 
able, may  also  be  used  for  this  purpose. 

Where  plants  are  small  the  cheesecloth  frames  made  to 
protect  them  from  injurious  insects  will  also  protect  them 
from  frost.  Where  newspapers,  muslin,  or  sacks  are  used 
put  them  over  the  hills  in  such  a  way  that  their  weight  will 
not  break  down  the  plants.  It  will  be  necessary  to  place 
clods  or  stones  on  the  corners  of  the  covers  to  keep  them 
from  blowing  away.  Where  cans,  boxes,  and  pasteboard 
cartons  are  used  they  may  merely  be  placed  over  the  top. 
Hay  or  straw  thrown  loosely  over  the  plants  also  affords 


102  GARDEN   CROPS 

protection  against  frost.  Sometimes  a  barrel  is  placed 
over  a  large  plant  to  protect  it. 

These  protecting  devices  are  all  inexpensive  and  very 
easy  to  adjust  over  the  plants.  Gardeners  should  always 
keep  on  hand  a  supply  of  material  for  constructing  them. 

If  a  slight  frost  occurs  at  a  time  when  the  plants  are 
unprotected,  to  revive  them  try  sprinkling  with  water  early 
the  next  morning  before  the  sun  rises. 

STUDY    OUTLINE 

i .  Name  five  devices  that  may  be  used  for  protecting  plants  from  frost. 

2.  How  does  the  use  of  frost-protecting  devices  lengthen  the  growing 
season? 

3.  Did  you  ever  try  sprinkling  a  frosted  plant  with  cold  water?  If 
so,  what  was  the  result? 

HOME    AND    COMMUNITY    WORK 

1.  What  frost-protecting  devices  are  used  in  your  community? 

2.  Do  the  people  of  your  community  consult  the  United  States 
Weather  Bureau  reports? 


CHAPTER   XXV 
WEEDS   AND   WEEDING 

Useless  plants,  or  plants  growing  out  of  their  proper  place 
are  called  weeds.  Weeds  are  usually  vigorous  and  persistent. 
They  compete  with  food  plants  in  taking  from  the  soil  light, 
plant  food,  and  moisture  which  the  others  need.  They  also 
afford  protection  to  injurious  insects.  Weeds  are  always 
in  evidence  and  must  be  destroyed  if  the  garden  is  to 
produce  the  best  results.  Removing  weeds  to  promote  the 
growth  of  useful  plants  is  called  weeding. 

How  weeds  are  classified.  Weeds,  like  useful  plants,  are 
classified  as  annuals,  biennials,  and  perennials. 

Annuals.  The  annuals  come  up  from  seed,  blossom,  ripen 
their  seeds,  and  then  die,  all  in  one  season.  They  can  be 
destroyed  by  any  method  that  will  prevent  their  going  to 
seed.  A  simple  plan  is  to  cut  them  off.  A  better  plan  is 
to  pull  them,  root  and  all,  and  carry  them  out  of  the  garden. 
Some  examples  of  annuals  are  the  ragweed,  wild  mustard, 
pigweed,  and  purslane. 

Biennials.  The  biennial  weeds  live  two  years.  The  first 
year  they  come  up  from  seed,  grow,  and  store  up  food  in  their 
roots.  They  do  not  produce  seed  the  first  year,  and  all  of 
the  plant  except  the  root  dies.  The  second  year  the  plant, 
using  the  food  stored  in  the  roots,  grows,  produces  seed, 
and  dies,  root  and  all.  The  best  way  to  destroy  this  class 
of  weeds  is  to  pull  them  the  first  year,  both  plant  and  root. 
If  we  begin  cutting  biennials  we  must  keep  at  it  until  the 
food  stored  in  the  roots  is  exhausted  by  the  plant's  efforts 

103 


104  GARDEN   CROPS 

to  produce  seeds.  The  burdock,  wild  parsnip,  bull  thistle, 
and  the  mullein  are  common  examples  of  biennial  weeds. 
Perennials.  Weeds  classed  as  perennials  grow  from 
seeds  and  also  multiply  from  some  form  of  root  or  under- 
ground stem.  Plants  of  this  class  live  on  year  after  year. 
Continual  cutting  or  pulling  up  by  the  roots  will  destroy 
them.  Fall  spading  or  plowing  aids  in  exposing  the  roots 
to  frost  which  may  kill  them.  Perennials  may  be  smothered 
out  by  sowing  grasses  which  cover  the  ground  with  a  thick 
growth.  If  perennial  weeds  continue  to  grow  after  cutting 
the  tops  a  few  inches  below  the  surface  of  the  soil,  apply 
strong  salt  water  to  the  roots.  This  will  kill  them.  The 
Canada  thistle,  yellow  dock,  ox-eye  daisy,  and  sorrel  are 
some  common  examples  of  perennials. 


STUDY    OUTLINE 

i.  What  is  a  weed? 

2.  Why  should  weeds  be  destroyed? 

3.  What  is  weeding? 

4.  Into  what  classes  are  weeds  divided? 

5.  What  are  annual  weeds?     How  are  they  destroyed?     Name  two 
kinds. 

6.  What  are  biennial  weeds?     How  are  they  destroyed?     Name  two 
kinds. 

7.  What  are  perennial  weeds?     How  are  they  destroyed?     Name  two 
kinds. 

HOME    AND    COMMUNITY    WORK 

1.  Name  two  weeds  of  each  class  that  grow  in  your  neighborhood. 

2.  What  methods  are  used  to  destroy  weeds  of  each  class  in  the  gardens 
of  your  neighborhood? 

3.  What  weeds  of  each  class  are  most  numerous  in  your  community? 


CHAPTER   XXVI 
THE   GARDENER'S   FRIENDS 

Although  the  gardener  may  not  know  it,  he  always  has 
some  faithful  friends  around  him,  in  and  near  his  garden. 
They  may  be  called  friends  because  they  aid  in  protecting 
his  garden  from  injury  by  the  insects  that  threaten  it. 

Insect  friends.  Among  the  gardener's  friends  are  the 
insects  which  destroy  other  insects  that  are  injurious  to 
his  plants.  These  include  ladybirds  or  ladybugs,  wasps, 
ichneumon  and  chalcid  flies,  ground  beetles,  syrphus  flies, 
tachina  flies,  and  lace-wing  flies. 

The  ladybird  or  ladybug  destroys  all  forms  of  garden 
plant-lice  as  well  as  the  eggs  of  several  insects  including  the 
Colorado  potato  beetle. 

Wasps  kill  or  paralyze  injurious  insects  by  stinging  them. 
They  then  feed  the  insects  to  the  young  wasps. 

The  adult  ichneumon  flies  feed  chiefly  on  the  juices  of 
plants.  They  lay  their  eggs  on,  near,  or  beneath  the  skin 
of  the  larva,  or  insect  form,  on  which  the  young  are  to  prey 
(Fig.  29).  When  the  eggs  hatch,  the  young  ichneumon  flies 
feed  on  the  tissues  and  juices  of  the  host,  that  is,  on  the 
insect  in  which  the  eggs  were  deposited,  and  this  later  causes 
the  death  of  the  insect.  As  these  are  mostly  injurious  insects, 
the  ichneumon  fly  is  a  true  friend  and  ally  of  the  gardener. 

The  chalcid  flies  destroy  injurious  insects  in  the  same  way, 
while  the  tachina  flies  in  like  manner  deposit  their  eggs  in 
caterpillars  that  are  injurious  to  plants. 

105 


io6 


GARDEN    CROPS 


The  larvae  of  lace-wing  and  syrphus  flies  destroy  the 
aphis,  a  kind  of  plant-louse,  by  feeding  upon  its  tissues  and 
juices  in  a  way  similar  to  that  practiced  by  ichneumon  flies. 

Ground  beetles  are  other  friendly  insects  that  feed  upon 
injurious  ones. 

Toads.  The  toad,  which  is  a  great  feeder,  begins  hunting 
for  food  soon  after  sundown.  Toads  eat  so  many  insects 
that  gardeners  sometimes  employ  boys  to  collect  them  for 


Fig.  29.    Two  insects,  a  friend  (1),  and  an  enemy  (2).     The  young  hatched 

from  the  eggs  insect  one  is  depositing  beneath  the  outer  covering  of 

insect  two  will  in  lime  cause  the  death  of  the  enemy  insect. 

the  protection  of  their  gardens.  Toads  will  destroy  cut- 
worms, army  worms,  caterpillars,  crickets,  grasshoppers,  and 
other  insects.  They  hide  under  boards,  stones,  and  brush 
when  they  are  not  feeding.  To  induce  these  friends  to 
visit  the  garden  or  to  make  it  their  home  a  few  such  objects 
should  be  left  in  or  near  it  to  afford  them  protection. 

Birds.     Almost    all   birds   are   friends   of   the    gardener, 
although  some  prove  to  be  better  friends  than  others  because 


THE  GARDENER'S   FRIENDS 


107 


they  do  a  greater  service.  The  insect  eaters  are  most 
valuable  because  they  destroy  a  large  number  of  the  plants' 
most  injurious  ene- 
mies. Birds  that  live 
on  seeds  help  the 
gardener  indirectly 
by  eating  seeds  that 
would  otherwise  live 
to  produce  weeds. 

Insect-eating  birds 
should  be  encouraged 
to  build  their  nests 
near  the  garden.  The 
gardener  may  en- 
courage them  to  do 
so  by  building  bird 
houses,  by  placing 
vessels  of  water  in 
the  garden,  and  by 
throwing  out  a  few 
bread  crumbs  or  other 
bits  of  food  to  afford 
the   birds   a   variety 

of  diet  (Figs.  30  and 

x    q,       1,  ,  Fig.  30.     A  bird  bath  and  a  feed  shelf.     The 

31;.  ^nruDDery,  Dear-  owner  of  this  garden  is  very  sure  to 

ing  edible  berries,   as  have  many  friendly  visitors. 

well  as  mulberry,  wild  cherry,  or  other  fruit  trees  planted 
near  the  garden,  also  helps  to  attract  birds  to  it. 

Sparrows  may  cause  some  trouble,  as  has  already  been 
mentioned  (Chapter  XXI),  since  they  are  fond  of  eating 
the  tender  leaves  of  early  plants,  such  as  lettuce  and  peas. 


ioS 


GARDEN   CROPS 


We  can  protect  these  plants  for  a  few  days  until  they  get 
well  started,  and  then  remove  the  brush  so  that  other  birds 

can  catch  the  insects 
that  injure  peas  or 
lettuce. 

Other  garden 
friends.  Lizards, 
non-venomous 
snakes,  and  skunks, 
all  serve  the  gardener 
because  they  destroy 
many  insects.  The 
earthworm  does  its 
part  by  making  the 
soil  more  porous  and 
this  makes  possible 
better  and  larger 
crops. 

The  gardener 
should  welcome  these 
friends  and  endeavor 
to  become  acquaint- 
ed with  them  so  that 
he  may  be  able  to 
distinguish  them  from 
his  garden  enemies. 
He  will  very  soon 
come  to  appreciate  the  value  of  the  work  they  do  for  him. 
Then  he  will  offer  them  every  encouragement  and  induce- 
ment to  visit  his  garden  frequently  or  to  make  their  homes 
year  after  year  among  his  trees. 


Fig.  31.     A  feeding  shelf  for  birds.     Notice 

also  the  suet  and  the  strings  of  peanuts 

provided  for  them  by  the  gardener. 


THE   GARDENER'S   FRIENDS  io<; 


STUDY    OUTLINE 


1.  Name  five  insects  that  destroy  injurious  insects. 

2.  How  does  the  wasp  kill  insects? 

3.  How  does  the  ichneumon  fly  destroy  the  injurious  insects? 

4.  What  other  flies  have  the  same  habits? 

5.  Upon  what  insects  do  toads  feed? 

6.  How  may  we  encourage  birds  to  visit  our  garden? 

7.  What  other  friends  has  the  gardener? 

HOME    AND    COMMUNITY    WORK 

Visit  three  gardens  in  the  neighborhood  just  about  sundown. 

1.  Did  you  see  any  toads  in  the  gardens?     If  so,  how  many? 

2.  What  friends  besides  toads  have  been  observed  in  the  gardens  of 
your  neighborhood? 


CHAPTER  XXVII 
LETTUCE 
Soil  and  climate.  Lettuce  is  usually  one  of  the  earliest 
plants  sown  in  the  garden.  It  thrives  best  in  cool  weather, 
and  for  this  reason  we  should  plant  the  seeds  in  the  early 
spring  or  late  fall.  It  grows  best  in  a  rich,  sandy  soil  that 
contains  considerable  humus.  Lettuce  grown  during  the 
summer  months  when  the  sun  is  hot  is  of  little  value 
except  for  garnishing.  Summer  grown  lettuce  for  the  table 
should  be  planted  in  a  location   that  is  partially  shaded. 


Fig.  32.     A  field  of  fine  lettuce.     Only  a  congenial  soil,  careful  culti- 
vation, and  a  sufficient  water  supply  will  produce  a  crop  like  this. 


no 


LETTUCE 


Planting  and   cultivation.     Lettuce   seed   may  be   sown 
broadcast  in  a  bed  and  the  leaves  removed  from  the  plants 


Fig.  S3-    -4  fine  specimen  of  head  lettuce.    Lettuce  is  grown  everywhere 
in  the  United  States  and  is  our  most  popular  salad  plant. 

as  rapidly  as  they  become  large  enough  to  use.  A  better 
way  is  to  transplant  the  seedlings  in  rows  and  thin  them  as 
needed  when  the  plants  are  large  enough  for  the  table.  If 
the  heading  kind  is  sown,  the  plants  should  be  thinned  to 
10  inches  apart  in  a  row  and  permitted  to  grow  until  com- 
pact heads  are  formed  (Figs.  32  and  33).  The  entire  plant 
may  then  be  cut  for  use.  The  soil  in  the  lettuce  bed  should 
be  well  pulverized.  Sow  the  seed  and  rake  in  with  a 
garden  rake.     Cover  seed  with  about  half  an  inch  of  soil. 


ii2  GARDEN  CROPS 

Lettuce  plants  require  frequent  shallow  cultivation.  The 
bed  should  be  kept  free  from  weeds.  The  leaves  (or  head) 
are  crisper  if  the  crop  is  forced  and  successive  plantings  are 
made  ten  days  or  two  weeks  apart  throughout  the  early 
spring  and  late  fall. 

For  a  very  early  crop,  lettuce  should  be  started  in  a  hot- 
bed or  indoor  box  and  the  plants  transplanted  to  the  garden 
as  soon  as  there  is  no  further  danger  of  a  hard  freeze.  Let- 
tuce may  be  grown  between  the  rows  of  long-season  crops. 

Varieties.  The  varieties  of  both  leaf  and  head  lettuce 
that  will  prove  most  dependable  are: 

LEAF  HEAD 

Grand  Rapids  Big  Boston 

Blackseeded  Simpson  May  King 

STUDY    OUTLINE 
i.  What  soil  and  climatic  conditions  are  most  favorable  for  growing 
lettuce? 

2.  Tell  how  lettuce  should  be  planted  and  cultivated. 

3.  How  are  crisp  leaves  produced? 

4.  How  may  a  very  early  crop  be  obtained? 

5.  Name  two  varieties  of  leaf  lettuce. 

6.  Name  two  varieties  of  head  lettuce. 

HOME    AND    COMMUNITY    WORK 

1.  What  are  the  most  common  methods  of  growing  lettuce  in  your 
community? 

2.  What  varieties  are  grown? 

3.  Which  of  these  have  proved  most  successful? 

4.  Are  the  head  or  leaf  varieties  more  generally  grown? 


CHAPTER  XXVIII 
RADISHES 

Soil  and  climate.  Radishes  do  best  in  a  rich  soil.  If  the 
seed  is  sown  in  poor  soil  their  growth  will  be  slow  and  their 
quality  not  first  class.  Radishes  are  better  when  grown  in 
cool  weather  rather  than  in  hot,  therefore  the  seed  should  be 
planted  in  early  spring  or  late  fall.  The  seed  may  be  sown 
in  the  open  ground  as  soon  as  the  soil  is  moderately  warm. 

Planting  and  cultivation.  Radish  seed  should  be  covered 
about  }-2  inch  deep  with  very  fine  soil.  Plant  the  seed 
i  inch  apart  in  the  rows,  using  i  ounce  of  seed  for  every 
ioo  feet  of  row  space.  For  a  constant  supply,  plant  seed 
about  every  two  weeks  during  the  spring  and  fall  months. 
Begin  using  the  radishes  as  early  as  possible,  for  they  lose 
their  crispness  (Fig.  34)  and  delicate  flavor  if  allowed  to 
remain  too  long  in  the  open  ground.     Thinning  the  plants 


Fig.  34.     A  prize  bunch  of  scarlet  globe  radishes.     Even  in  a  picture 
the  freshness  and  crispness  of  these  radishes  is  apparent. 

8  113 


H4  GARDEN   CROPS 

permits  those  that  remain  more  space  for  growth.  Radishes 
may  be  sown  between  the  rows  of  long-season  garden  crops. 

Cultivate  radishes  frequently  in  order  that  the  soil  may 
be  kept  loose  about  the  roots.  Keep  the  rows  free  from 
weeds. 

Varieties.  One  or  two  excellent  varieties  of  each  kind  of 
radishes  are  as  follows: 

EARLY  SUMMER  WINTER 

Scarlet  Globe  White  Icicle  Japanese 

Short  Top 

STUDY    OUTLINE 

i.  What  soil  and  climatic  conditions  are  most  favorable  for  growing 
radishes? 

2.  Why  should  we  use  radishes  while  they  are  young? 

3.  What  are  the  advantages  of  thinning  the  roots  in  the  row? 

4.  Suggest  a  plan  for  companion  cropping  including  radishes. 

5.  Name  one  variety  each  of  early,  summer,  and  winter  radishes. 

HOME    AND    COMMUNITY    WORK 

1.  What  methods  of  culture  are  used  in  your  community  for  growing 
radishes? 

2.  What  companion  cropping  plan  including  radishes  is  practiced  in 
your  neighborhood? 

3.  What  varieties  are  most  commonly  raised  there? 


CHAPTER   XXIX 
PEAS 

Soil  and  climate.  Peas  require  rich,  mellow  soil  made  firm 
by  thorough  working.  The  first  crop  should  be  planted  as 
early  as  the  soil  can  be  worked.  Peas  are  not  injured  by 
light  frosts. 

Planting  and  cultivation.  Peas  should  be  covered  about 
2  inches  deep  with  fine  soil,  and  should  be  planted  every 
two  weeks  until  hot  weather,  in  order  to  insure  a  continuous 
supply.  Plant  about  15  seeds  to  the  foot,  using  1  to  2  pints 
for  100  feet  of  row  space.  Some  gardeners  plant  in  double 
rows  6  to  8  inches  apart  and  3  to  4  feet  between  the  double 
rows.  This  plan  is  especially  advisable  when  varieties 
requiring  support  are  used.  The  support  is  placed  between 
the  rows  of  the  double  row.  Brush,  wire  netting,  and  stakes 
are  used  to  support  large  growing  varieties.  The  wire 
netting  should  be  tacked  firmly  to  stakes  located  about 
every  8  feet  in  the  row.  When  strings  are  used,  the 
stakes  should  be  placed  about  4  inches  apart.  Drive  stakes 
supporting  either  netting  or  strings  about  10  inches  into 
the  soil,  so  as  to  produce  a  firm  support  for  the  pea  vines. 

Cultivate  frequently.  As  the  vines  grow  larger  draw  the 
dirt  up  around  them  to  give  support. 

Insect  enemies.  The  most  harmful  enemies  of  the  pea 
are  the  plant-louse  known  as  the  pea  aphis,  and  the  pea 
weevil,  a  tiny  beetle-like  insect.  Attacks  of  the  aphis  may 
be  prevented  by  applying  kerosene  emulsion  to  both  sides 
of    the    leaves.     This   emulsion  is  made  as  follows:  Shave 

115 


n6  GARDEN    CROPS 

x/i  pound  of  hard  soap  into  fine  pieces.  Dissolve  this  fine 
soap  in  M  gallon  of  boiling  soft  water.  Remove  from  the 
fire  and  pour  i  gallon  of  kerosene  into  the  soap  and  water 
mixture.  Churn  or  shake  well  while  the  mixture  is  still 
hot,  and  continue  until  a  creamy  emulsion  is  formed.  For 
use  in  warm  weather  add  i  part  to  9  parts  of  soft  water. 
For  cold  weather  use  in  the  ratio  of  1  to  7.  Sprinkling  the 
young  plants  with  water  in  which  tobacco  leaves  have  been 
soaked  sometimes  prevents  injury  to  pea  vines.  The  pea 
weevil  injures  the  seed  while  in  storage.  To  destroy  it  use 
1  to  2  ounces  of  bisulphide  of  carbon  to  100  pounds  of  seed. 
Varieties.  The  first  plantings  should  consist  of  the 
dwarf,  quick  maturing  varieties.  Follow  with  the  wrinkled 
kinds.  For  the  fall  garden  use  early  dwarf  varieties.  Some 
varieties  of  both  kinds  are: 

EARLY  DWARF  WRINKLED 

Alaska  Champion  of  England 

Gradus  Telephone 

STUDY    OUTLINE 

1.  What  soil  is  most  suitable  for  peas? 

2.  Suggest  common  methods  for  supporting  climbing  pea  vines. 

3.  What  two  insect  enemies  do  most  damage  to  the  pea? 

4.  How  is  kerosene  emulsion  prepared? 

5.  How  may  the  pea  weevil  be  destroyed? 

6.  Name  two  varieties  each  of  the  early,  medium,  and  late  peas. 

HOME    AND    COMMUNITY    WORK 

1.  In  what  kind  of  soil  have  peas  been  planted  in  your  home  garden? 

2.  What  methods  are  used  in  your  neighborhood  for  supporting  climb- 
ing pea  vines? 

3.  What   varieties  of  peas  are  usually  planted  in  your  community? 

4.  What  varieties  are  most  successful? 


CHAPTER   XXX 
ONIONS 

Soil  and  climate.  Onions  do  best  in  well-drained  loams 
that  contain  a  large  amount  of  humus.  They  may  be  grown 
in  all  temperate  climates  and  are  a  very  widely  cultivated 
crop  (Fig  35). 

Planting  and  cultivation.  For  a  crop  of  dry  onions  use 
1  ounce  of  seed  for  100  feet  of  row  space,  planting  seed 
iH  inches  apart  in  a  row  and  covering  with  1  inch  of  fine 
soil.  When  early  bulbs  are  desired,  plant  the  seed  in  a 
hotbed  or  an  indoor  seed  box.  Transplant  the  plants  to 
the  soil  as  early  as  it  can  be  worked.  Plants  4  or  5  inches 
high  are  the  best  size  for  transplanting.  When  sets  are 
planted  use  1  quart  to  100  feet  of  row  space,  placing  the 
sets  about  2  inches  apart  in  a  row  and  from  1  to  2  inches 
deep. 

Early  spring  onions  may  be  produced  by  planting  multi- 
pliers in  the  fall.  If  only  the  new  growth  is  desired  for 
food,  plant  old  onions  that  have  already  started  to  grow. 
Onions  require  shallow  cultivation  and  hand  weeding. 
They  may  be  pulled  any  time  after  they  become  large 
enough  to  eat.  These  are  known  as  green  onions.  When 
onions  get  ripe  the  outer  skin  of  the  bulbs  becomes  dry 
and  the  tops  fall. 

Onion  diseases.  Onion  smut  and  downy  mildew  are 
serious  diseases  of  the  onion.  Smut  attacks  the  entire 
plant  and  prevents  its  proper  growth.     This  disease  may 

117 


n8 


GARDEN   CROPS 


be  prevented  by  treating  the  seed  with  formalin  solution 
at  the  rate  of  i   ounce  of  formalin  to   i   gallon  of  water. 


Fig.  35.     Spring  onions.     The  onion  was  one  of  the  very  first  vege- 
tables to  be  cultivated.     Today  it  is  seen  in  every  early  garden. 

Soak  seed  20  minutes  in  this  solution.  The  mildew  may 
be  prevented  by  spraying  with  Bordeaux  mixture  (Chap- 
ter XXXVII). 

Insect  enemies.  Onion  maggots  frequently  do  consid- 
erable damage  in  some  soils.  If  they  are  discovered,  dis- 
continue growing  onions  in  the  infested  area  for  a  period  of 
two  or  three  years.  Try  a  rotation  of  crops  and  plant 
other  vegetables  in  that  space.  By  this  plan  the  maggots 
will  probably  disappear. 

Varieties.  A  few  good  varieties  to  plant  both  as  onion 
sets  for  green  onions,  and  for  dry  onions  to  store  for  winter 
use  are: 


SETS 

White  Silverskin 


DRY 

Yellow  Globe 
Silver  King: 


ONIONS  119 


STUDY    OUTLINE 


1.  Upon  what  soils  do  onions  grow  best? 

2.  What  planting  methods  should  be  used? 

3.  How  may  early  spring  onions  be  produced? 

4.  How  may  early  sprouts  be  produced? 

5.  When  are  green  onions  ready  to  use? 

6.  What  conditions  indicate  that  onions  are  ripe? 

7.  Name  two  diseases  of  the  onion. 

8.  How  are  these  controlled? 

9.  How  are  onion  maggots  controlled? 

10.  Name  a  variety  used  for  sets,  and  one  used  for  dry  onions. 

HOME    AND    COMMUNITY    WORK 

1.  In  what  kind  of  soil  are  onions  grown? 

2.  What  plan  is  used  to  get  early  sprouts  or  early  onions? 

3 .  Has  there  been  any  evidence  of  mildew  or  smut  in  your  community 
and  if  so,  what  means  were  used  to  control  it? 

4.  What  varieties  are  commonly  grown  by  your  neighbors? 


CHAPTER   XXXI 
CABBAGE 

Soil  and  climate.  To  produce  early  cabbages  a  rich, 
warm,  mellow  soil  is  required.  The  seeds  of  early  varieties 
may  be  sown  in  a  hotbed  or  an  indoor  seed  box.  The 
plants  are  hardy  and  will  stand  a  light  frost.  Cabbages  can 
be  left  in  the  garden  until  cool  weather  without  injury  to 
the  heads. 

Planting  and  cultivation.  Cabbage  plants  should  be 
transplanted  as  soon  as  the  soil  can  be  put  in  good  condition. 
They  should  be  placed  about  12  to  18  inches  apart  in  the 
row  and  >2  to  1  inch  deep.  The  rows  should  be  from  30  to 
36  inches  apart  for  convenient  cultivation  with  the  wheel 
hoe.  Seed  for  the  fall  crop  should  be  planted  in  June. 
Transplant  the  plants  as  soon  as  they  are  about  4  inches 
high,  and  when  the  soil  contains  sufficient  moisture  to  insure 
their  proper  growth.  Plant  late  cabbage  between  the  rows 
of  early  potatoes  about  three  weeks  before  the  potatoes 
are  dug. 

Diseases  of  the  plant.  Cabbages  and  turnips  are  subject 
to  a  disease  called  clubroot.  It  is  due  to  a  fungus  which 
develops  swellings  on  the  roots.  The  remedy  is  rotation  of 
garden  crops  and  an  application  of  lime  to  the  soil.  Black- 
leg, yellows,  black-rot,  and  soft-rot  in  cabbage  may  be 
prevented  by  sowing  clean  seed  in  a  soil  free  from  disease, 
by  practicing  crop  rotation,  and  by  destroying  all  old  stalks 
in  the  fall  of  the  year. 


CABBAGE  121 

Varieties.  Some  favorite  varieties  of  both  the  early  and 
late  kinds  are: 

EARLY  LATE 

Jersey  Wakefield,  Flat  Dutch, 

Copenhagen.  Danish  Ball  Head. 

Chinese  cabbage.  This  plant  is  often  called  "celery 
cabbage"  and  may  be  served  either  as  a  potherb  or  a  salad. 
It  is  most  frequently  cooked  for  greens  during  the  spring 
months  because  of  the  difficulty  of  getting  it  to  head  at 
that  time.  The  growth  and  cultivation  of  Chinese  cabbage 
are  the  same  as  for  common  cabbage.  It  needs  a  rich, 
well-drained  soil  as  well  as  plenty  of  moisture.  This  plant 
matures  in  much  less  time  than  ordinary  cabbage  and  so 
may  be  planted  for  a  late  crop  about  the  same  time  as  fall 
turnips. 

STUDY    OUTLINE 

i.  What  soil  is  most  favorable  for  the  growth  of  cabbage? 

2.  What  plan  for  companion  cropping  is  suggested  for  late  cabbage? 

3.  What  plant  diseases  are  common  to  cabbage? 

4.  How  are  these  prevented? 

5.  Name  one  early  and  one  late  variety  of  cabbage. 

6.  What  is  Chinese  cabbage? 

HOME    AND    COMMUNITY    WORK 

i.  What  soils  seem  best  adapted  to  the  growth  of  cabbage  in  your 
community? 

2.  What  companion  cropping  plans  including  cabbage  are  practiced 
in  your  locality? 

3.  What  diseases  of  cabbages  are  most  common  in  your  neighborhood? 

4.  What  methods  are  taken  to  control  them? 

5.  What  varieties  of  cabbage  do  you  learn  are  most  common? 


CHAPTER   XXXII 
CABBAGE  ENEMIES  AND  THEIR  CONTROL 

The  cutworm,  cabbage  worm,  cabbage  looper,  flea-beetle, 
and  plant-louse  are  the  chief  enemies  of  cabbage. 

Cutworms.  The  stems  of  many  plants  in  the  spring 
garden  are  cut  off  by  cutworms.  These  destroyers  may  be 
poisoned  with  bait  placed  near  the  plants.  To  prepare 
this  bait  mix  i  teaspoonful  of  Paris  green  with  i  quart 
of  bran  and  moisten  with  sweetened  water.  Garden  plants 
may  be  protected  from  cutworms  by  wrapping  paper 
around  the  stems  when  ready  to  set  out.  The  paper 
should  extend  about  i  inch  below  and  2  inches  above  the 
surface  of  the  soil.     This  simple  plan  has  saved  many  a 


Courtesy  of  Purdue  University. 


Fig.  36.     A  sure  way  of  protecting  tomato  plants  from  cutwor 

garden  plant.     Fig.  36  shows  (1)  the  paper  in  place  and  (2) 
the  plant  after  transplanting. 


CABBAGE  ENEMIES  AND   THEIR   CONTROL 


123 


Cabbage  butterfly.     The  cabbage  butterfly  deposits  her 
eggs  upon  the  under  side  of  the  cabbage  leaves.     The  eggs 


Fig.  37.     .1//  Interesting  lesson  in   a   home   garden.     These   young 

gardeners  are  studying  a  stage  in  the  life  history  of  the  cabbage 

butterfly  that  they  may  learn  to  fight  the  enemy  successfully. 

soon  hatch  into  pale  green  worms  which  feed  upon  the 
leaves  (Figs.  2>7  and  $&).  To  prevent  this,  spray  the  plant 
with  fine  air-slaked  lime,  road  dust,  wood  ashes  or  powdered 
tobacco. 

Treatment  for  other  pests.  To  destroy  the  cabbage 
worm,  cabbage  looper,  and  flea-beetle,  mix  Paris  green  with 
lime  or  ashes  at  the  rate  of  1  tablespoonful  of  Paris  green 


124 


GARDEN    CROPS 


to  i  pint  of  lime  or  ashes.  This  should  be  dusted  on  the 
plants  early  in  the  morning  when  the  dew  is  still  upon  the 
leaves. 

Most  gardeners  prefer  arsenate  of  lead  to  Paris  green. 
When  this  is  used  in  powder  form  10  teaspoonfuls,  or  %  of 
an  ounce,  to  i  gallon  of  water  is  recommended  by  the  United 


Fig.  38.     The  destructive  work  of  cabbage  worms.    When  the  sun  grew 
hot  this  gardener  lost  interest  and  neglected  his  spraying. 

States  Department  of  Agriculture  for  a  small  garden.  Re- 
peat the  application  every  two  or  three  weeks  if  the  worms 
and  beetles  continue  upon  the  cabbage. 

Use  of  a  "sticker."  The  adhesiveness  of  arsenate  of  lead 
is  enhanced  by  the  addition  of  a  "sticker"  of  about  the  same 
quantity  in  weight  of  resin  fish-oil  soap,  or  other  soft  or 
dissolved  soap,  as  of  the  arsenical  used.     The  "sticker," 


CABBAGE   ENEMIES  AND   THEIR   CONTROL  125 

according  to  Farmers'  Bulletin  836,  will  prevent  the  foliage 
of  cabbage  and  similar  smooth-leaved  crops  from  repelling 
the  liquid.  Without  the  "sticker"  the  poison  may  gather 
in  drops  and  not  be  equally  distributed  over  the  foliage. 
Foliage  successfully  treated  will  show  a  thin  white  coating 
of  the  poison  for  some  time. 

Sprays  to  destroy  plant-lice.  To  destroy  the  plant-lice 
known  as  the  cabbage  aphis,  turnip  aphis,  and  spinach 
aphis,  as  well  as  leaf-bugs,  leaf-hoppers,  and  thrips,  spray 
plants  with  dissolved  cresol  soap  or  resin  fish-oil  soap  at 
the  rate  of  1  pound  to  6  gallons  of  water. 

STUDY    OUTLINE 

1.  Name  five  insect  enemies  of  the  cabbage. 

2.  How  is  poison  bait  for  cutworms  prepared? 

3.  In  what  other  way  may  cabbage  be  protected  from  cutworms? 

4.  How  are  cabbage-worms,  cabbage  loopers,  and  flea-beetles  de- 
stroyed? 

5.  How  are  the  cabbage  aphis,  turnip  aphis,  and  spinach  aphis  de- 
stroyed? 

HOME    AND    COMMUNITY    WORK 
Make  a  survey  of  twelve  home  gardens  in  your  community  and  if 
possible  secure  the  following  information: 

1 .  What  insect  enemies  of  cabbage  are  most  common  in  these  gardens? 

2.  What  methods  are  used  to  destroy  them? 

3.  Which  seems  to  be  the  most  satisfactory? 


CHAPTER   XXXIII 
BEETS 


Soil  and  climate.     Beets  can  be  grown  in  almost  any 
climate.     They  do  best  in  a  moist,  well- drained  soil.     This 

crop  grows  well  in  cool  climates, 
therefore  the  larger  crops  are  grown 
in  the  North.  The  seed  may  be 
planted  as  early  as  the  ground  can 
be  worked  in  the  spring.  It  is  not 
necessary  for  the  ground  to  be 
warm. 

Planting  and  cultivation.  The 
seed  should  be  planted  about  i 
inch  deep,  at  the  rate  of  2  ounces 
to  100  feet  of  row  space.  The 
rows  are  usually  placed  about  12 
or  18  inches  apart.  The  plants 
should   be   thinned    so    that    they 

T  stand  about  6  inches  apart  in  the 

row.  Do  not  throw  away  the  plants 
taken  out.  Transplant  them  to 
other  garden  space,  if  you  have  it, 
or  use  the  tops  for  greens.  Per- 
haps some  young  gardener  in  the 
neighborhood  would  be  glad  to 
have  your  surplus  plants.  To 
insure  a  supply  of  young  tender 
beets  throughout  the  season  it  is 
126 


Courtesy  Livingston  Seed  Company 

Fig.  39.     A  fine  specimen  of 
Crosby's  Egyptian  beet. 


BEETS  I27 

advisable  to  make  three  or  four  plantings.  Under  favorable 
weather  conditions,  beets  (Fig.  39)  will  be  ready  for  use  in 
from  60  to  80  days. 

Insect  enemies.  The  beet  army  worm  and  several  kinds 
of  webworm  damage  the  beet  by  feeding  on  the  foliage. 
They  may  be  controlled  by  the  use  of  arsenate  of  lead  as 
already  described.  Flea-beetles  are  very  destructive  to 
the  beet.  To  destroy  them  the  plants  should  be  sprayed 
with  Paris  green.     For  method  consult  Chapter  XXXII. 

Varieties.  Four  varieties  of  beets  that  experience  has 
proved  to  be  reliable  are : 

Crosby's  Egyptian  Yellow  Turnip 

Detroit  Red  Eclipse 


STUDY    OUTLINE 

1.  What  climate  is  most  suitable  for  growing  beets? 

2.  In  what  ways  may  extra  beet  plants  and  beet  tops  be  used. 

3.  Name  some  insect  enemies  that  destroy  the  beet. 

4.  How  are  these  enemies  controlled? 

5.  Name  two  reliable  varieties  of  beets. 


HOME    AND    COMMUNITY    WORK 

1.  What  use  is  made  of  the  extra  beet  plants  and  tops  in  gardens  near 
your  home? 

2.  What  insect  enemies  are  common  in  your  locality? 

3.  What  is  done  to  control  them? 

4.  What  varieties  of  beets  are  most  commonly  grown? 


CHAPTER   XXXIV 
PARSNIPS 

Soil  and  climate.  Parsnips  (Fig.  40)  are  very  easily 
grown  when  the  soil  is  rich  and  mellow.  When  this  con- 
dition prevails  they  will  grow  in  almost  any  part  of  the 
country. 

Planting  and  cultivation.  Parsnip  seed  may  be  planted 
as  early  in  the  spring  as  the  soil  can  be  put  in  good  condition. 
Use  >2  ounce  of  seed  to  100  feet  of  row  space,  planting  the 
seed  lA  to  1  inch  deep.  The  plants  should  be  thinned 
to  2%  inches  apart.  The  plants  taken  out  can  be  trans- 
planted to  other  garden  space.  When  this  is  done  the  soil 
should  be  made  very  mellow  to  a  depth  of  6  or  8  inches. 
Very  loose  mellow  soil  is  necessary  to  produce  smooth  roots. 

The  rows  should  be  12  to  18  inches  apart.  Frequent 
cultivation  is  necessary. 

Wintering  parsnips  in  the  ground.  The  roots  of  parsnips 
may  be  used  in  the  fall,  but  their  quality  is  improved  if 
they  are  left  in  the  ground  until  spring.  This  makes 
them  sweeter.  They  should  be  dug,  however,  before  they 
begin  to  grow,  as  sprouting  makes  them  unfit  for  table  use. 
In  addition,  parsnips  produce  seed  the  second  season,  and  if 
the  roots  are  left  in  the  ground  to  mature  and  bear  seed, 
this  seed  will  scatter  and  the  result  will  be  a  weedy  garden. 

Companion  crops.  Lettuce,  radishes,  and  onions  may 
be  used  as  companion  crops  for  parsnips. 

Enemies.  The  parsnip  is  not  seriously  injured  by  insect 
enemies  or  plant  diseases.  If  web  worms  appear,  spray  with 
arsenate  of  lead,  as  already  described  (Chapter  XXXII). 

128 


PARSNIPS 


129 


Fig.  40.     Parsnips.     Experienced  householders  who  grow  their  own 
parsnips  allow  them  to  remain  in  the  ground  all  winter. 

Varieties.     Two  leading  varieties  of  parsnips  which  may 
be  recommended  to  the  young  gardener  are: 
Hollow  Crown  Sugar 


STUDY    OUTLINE 

1.  What  methods  are  commonly  used  for  planting  and  cultivating  the 
parsnip? 

2.  Why  are  parsnips  left  in  the  ground  over  winter? 

3.  What  crops  may  be  used  as  companion  crops  for  parsnips? 

4.  What  insects  occasionally  injure  parsnips? 

5.  Name  two  leading  varieties  of  parsnips. 

HOME    AND    COMMUNITY    WORK 

1.  Are  parsnips  very  generally  grown  in  your  neighborhood? 

2.  Are  they  left  in  the  ground  over  winter  or  dug  and  placed  in  storage? 

3.  What  crops  are  used  as  companion  crops  with  parsnips? 

4.  What  insects,  if  any,  have  injured  them? 

5.  What  varieties  are  grown? 

9 


CHAPTER   XXXV 

CARROTS   AND    CHERVILS 

CARROTS 

Soil  and  climate.  The  soil  and  climatic  conditions  under 
which  parsnips  do  best  are  also  favorable  to  the  carrot. 

Planting  and  cultivation.  Carrot  seed  should  be  planted 
XA  inch  deep,  using  i  ounce  to  ioo  feet  of  row  space.  The 
plants  should  stand  2  inches  apart  in  the  rows.  If  they  are 
too  thick  thin  the  rows  and  transplant  your  surplus  plants 
to  other  garden  space.  Cultivation  should  begin  when  the 
plant  is  an  inch  high.  By  marking  the  rows  with  button 
radishes,  cultivation  may  begin  before  the  young  plants 
have  come  through  the  ground.  The  growth  may  be 
hastened  by  the  application  of  a  small  amount  of  fertilizer 
on  each  side  of  the  row.  When  plants  are  large  enough  to 
touch  each  other  in  the  row,  the  larger  carrots  should  be 
pulled  for  table  use  (Fig.  41). 


^jf 

ifc*->         litte         ... 

p^'         *» 

Hfc.    i 

Fig.  41.     Carrots.     The  carrot  is  rapidly  growing  in  favor  as  a  table 

vegetable. 


130 


CARROTS  AND   CHERVILS  131 

Insect  enemies.  Cutworms  sometimes  do  a  great  deal 
of  damage  to  carrots.  If  they  are  in  the  garden  use  the 
cutworm  bait  as  suggested  (Chapter  XXXII). 

Varieties.  If  the  carrots  are  planted  in  a  clay  soil  that 
tends  to  become  hard,  the  short  variety  known  as  the  Golden 
Ball  should  be  used.  Some  of  the  longer  varieties  are  later 
and  require  soil  that  is  deep  and  mellow  for  most  successful 
development.     A  few  varieties  of  both  kinds  are: 

EARLY  LATER 

Golden  Ball  French  Forcing 

Early  Scarlet  Horn  Half  Long  Scarlet  Oxheart 

Long  Orange 
CHERVIL 

Two  types  of  chervil  are  grown.  The  salad  type,  which 
is  much  like  parsley,  is  not  often  found  in  American  gar- 
dens. The  seed  for  this  is  sown  in  the  spring.  The  other 
type  is  known  as  the  turnip  rooted  chervil.  The  seed  is 
sown  in  early  fall,  but  it  does  not  germinate  until  spring. 
The  edible  part  of  this  plant  is  the  root.  It  closely  resem- 
bles the  carrot  and  is  used  in  the  same  way  for  the  table. 
The  leaves  are  used  either  for  garnishing  or  for  flavoring 
soups. 

STUDY    OUTLINE 

1.  What  companion  crop  is  used  for  marking  the  carrot  rows? 

2.  How  should  carrots  be  planted  and  cultivated? 

3.  What  insect  enemy  attacks  the  carrot? 

4.  Name  two  varieties  of  carrots  suitable  for  early  planting  and  two 
suitable'  for  late  planting. 

5.  Name  two  types  of  the  chervil.     How  is  each  used? 

HOME    AND    COMMUNITY    WORK 

1.  Name  two  varieties  of  carrots  grown  in  your  neighborhood. 

2.  Has  the  chervil  also  been  grown  there?     If  so,  which  type? 

3.  Can  you  tell  where  the  salad  chervil  has  long  been  popular? 


CHAPTER   XXXVI 
TURNIPS   AND   RUTABAGAS 

TURNIPS 

Soil  and  climate.  The  turnip  does  best  in  a  cool,  moist 
climate,  but  will  grow  in  nearly  all  sections  of  the  country. 
The  fact  that  it  is  such  a  hardy  vegetable  makes  it  a  popular 
crop  for  cool  latitudes.  It  is  grown  most  successfully  in  a 
rich,  mellow  soil. 

Planting  and  cultivation.  Two  crops  of  turnips  can  be 
raised  in  one  year  (Fig.  42) .  For  the  early  crop  plant  as  soon 
as  the  soil  can  be  worked.  Use  H  ounce  of  seed  to  100  feet  of 
row  space.  Plants  should  number  6  or  7  to  a  foot.  Rows  are 
usually  12  to  18  inches  apart.  The  roots  of  the  early  crop 
will  be  ready  for  use  before  the  weather  gets  hot.  The  late 
crop  is  usually  sown  broadcast  on  land  occupied  by  early 


Fig.  42.     Turnips.     To  the  gardener  who  is  looking  for  quick  returns 
the  turnip  affords  one  of  the  most  satisfactory  crops. 


132 


TURNIPS   AND   RUTABAGAS  133 

vegetables.  Seed  may  be  sown  for  the  late  crop  from  the 
last  of  July  until  the  middle  of  August.  It  should  be 
covered  34  to  lA  inch  deep  with  fine  soil.  When  turnips 
are  sown  broadcast,  use  2  pounds  of  seed  to  an  acre.  To 
determine  the  quantity  of  seed  necessary  for  your  garden 
space  find  what  part  of  an  acre  is  comprised  in  the  space. 
Stir  the  ground  frequently  for  the  cultivation  of  an  early 
crop,  and  keep  the  soil  free  from  weeds.  When  the  seed 
is  sown  broadcast,  pull  weeds  by  hand  and  use  a  hand 
hoe  for  loosening  the  soil  among  the  turnips  if  it  seems 
necessary. 

Varieties.     Good  varieties  of  the  turnip  which  may  be 
safely  recommended  are : 
Purple  Top  Globe 
White  Globe 

RUTABAGAS 

The  rutabaga  is  commonly  known  in  England  as  Swedish 
turnip.  The  yellow-fleshed  root  is  the  variety  most 
widely  cultivated  here.  Its  culture  is  the  same  as  that 
for  the  turnip  except  that  the  rutabaga  requires  a  longer 
period  and  more  room  for  growing. 

Enemies.  The  insect  enemies  of  the  turnip  and  the 
rutabaga  are  the  same  as  those  of  the  cabbage.  Clubroot 
is  the  most  serious  disease  that  attacks  these  plants.  The 
remedies  for  destroying  the  insects,  as  well  as  the  way  in 
which  clubroot  may  be  prevented  are  the  same  as  already 
given  for  cabbages  (Chapters  XXXI  and  XXXII). 

Varieties.     Leading  varieties  of  the  rutabaga  are : 
Large  White  Purple  Top 


134  GARDEN   CROPS 

STUDY    OUTLINE 

i .  Where  is  the  turnip  most  successfully  grown? 

2.  Tell  when  and  how  seed  is  sown  for  the  early  crop;  the  late  crop. 

3.  Name  two  popular  varieties  of  the  turnip. 

4.  Name  two  varieties  of  the  rutabaga. 

5.  What  plant  disease  injures  turnips  and  rutabagas? 

HOME    AND    COMMUNITY    WORK 

1.  In  your  community  what  varieties  of  turnip  are  grown?    of  the 
rutabaga? 

2.  Do  you  know  anyone  who  grows  this  white-fleshed  variety? 

3.  What  varieties  of  each  are  most  successful? 

4.  Have  any  crops  in  your  neighborhood  been  injured  by  either  dis- 
eases or  insects? 

5.  If  so,  which  did  the  most  damage? 


CHAPTER   XXXVII 
IRISH   POTATOES 

The  Irish  potato  is  a  native  of  America,  but  after  its 
introduction  into  Ireland  because  of  famine  it  became  the 
staple  food  of  that  country,  and  so  it  has  come  to  be 
called  the  Irish  potato. 

Soil  and  climate.  The  Irish  potato  is  grown  successfully 
in  nearly  every  section  of  the  United  States  and  in  many 
countries  of  the  Old  World.  It  grows  best  in  a  well-drained 
sandy  loam  that  is  rich  in  humus. 

Planting  and  cultivation.  Irish  potatoes  should  be 
planted  in  rows  2  to  2YA  feet  apart,  and  4  to  6  pounds  of 
seed  should  be  used  for  100  feet  of  row  space  (Fig.  8).  The 
potatoes,  or  "tubers,"  are  planted  3  to  4  inches  deep  and  the 
plants  should  stand  about  15  inches  apart  in  the  row.  Cut 
seed  potatoes  so  that  there  will  be  three  good  eyes  in  each 
piece  to  be  planted.  Each  piece  should  weigh  about  2 
ounces.  For  example,  a  potato  weighing  6  ounces  should  be 
cut  so  as  to  produce  3  pieces  of  seed.  Potatoes  that  are 
intended  for  seed  should  be  saved  from  the  hills  producing 
the  largest  yield  and  where  there  have  been  no  traces  of 
plant  disease. 

Early  potatoes  should  be  planted  as  soon  as  the  ground 
can  be  worked.  Late  potatoes  may  be  planted  from  the 
last  week  in  May  to  the  first  week  in  July.  Potatoes  require 
considerable  water  to  make  successful  growth.  For  this 
reason  the  moisture  in  the  ground  should  be  conserved  by 
frequent  cultivation.     Toward  the  last  of  the  growing  season 

135 


136  GARDEN    CROPS 

pull  the  dirt  up  well  around  the  vines  to  protect  the  tubers 
from  the  sun  after  the  vines  die. 

Treatment  for  scab.  If  the  seed  potatoes  have  rough- 
pitted  spots  upon  them  they  should  be  treated  for  the  dis- 
ease known  as  "scab,"  which  is  due  to  a  parasite  living  in 
the  soil.  Formalin  is  used  for  treating  potatoes  with  scab. 
It  is  a  clear  solution  of  40  per  cent  formaldehyde  gas  in 
water.  Use  1  ounce  to  2  gallons  of  water,  or  1  pint  to  30 
gallons  if  a  large  number  of  potatoes  are  to  be  treated. 
This  solution  may  also  be  used  to  treat  onions,  seeds  of  any 
kind,  and  even  the  soil,  to  prevent  plant  diseases.  If  pota- 
toes have  scab  the  second  year,  be  sure  to  secure  a  new 
location  for  the  crop. 

Enemies.  The  Irish  potato  has  many  enemies,  but  the 
Colorado  potato  beetle  (Fig.  26)  and  late  blight  are  consid- 
ered the  greatest.  For  the  Colorado,  blister,  and  flea  beetles 
spray  with  Paris  green  or  arsenate  of  lead,  as  described 
(Chapter  XXXII).  Repeat  the  spraying  application  every 
two  weeks  if  the  beetles  continue  to  appear.  For  both 
early  and  late  blight,  spray  with  Bordeaux  mixture,  using  a 
hand  sprayer  where  only  a  small  garden  is  being  treated. 
To  prevent  early  blight,  spray  first  when  the  plants  are  3 
or  4  inches  high,  following  with  two  or  three  other  sprayings 
about  two  weeks  apart.  If  late  blight  is  observed  it  may 
be  necessary  to  spray  four  or  five  times.  All  applications 
should  be  two  or  three  weeks  apart. 

Bordeaux  mixture.  In  preparing  Bordeaux  mixture  use 
M  pound  of  unslaked  lime,  M  pound  of  copper  sulphate, 
and  3  gallons  of  water.  Slake  the  lime  in  half  of  the  water 
and  dissolve  the  copper  sulphate  in  the  other  half.  Stir 
the  two  well  together.     Spray  without  diluting. 


IRISH  POTATOES  137 

Varieties.     Some  popular  and  satisfactory  early  and  late 
varieties  of  potatoes  are: 

EARLY  LATE 

Early  Ohio  Green  Mountain 

Early  Rose  Rural  New  Yorker 

Irish  Cobbler  Sir  Walter  Raleigh 

STUDY    OUTLINE 
i.  What  are  common  rules  for  planting  the  Irish  potato? 

2.  State  two  important  points  in  preparing  seed  potatoes  for  planting. 

3.  How  should  seed  potatoes  with  scab  be  treated? 

4.  How  should  seed  potatoes  be  selected? 

5.  What  are  the  greatest  enemies  to  the  potato? 

6.  How  may  these  be  controlled? 

7.  How  is  Bordeaux  mixture  prepared? 

8.  Name  two  early  varieties  of  potatoes;  two  late  varieties. 

HOME    AND    COMMUNITY    WORK 

1.  What  is  the  chief  source  of  seed  potatoes  in  your  neighborhood? 

2.  What  enemies  do  most  damage  to  the  potatoes? 

3.  What  methods  are  used  to  prevent  diseases?     To  destroy  insect 
pests? 

4.  Are  both  early  and  late  potatoes  grown?     Name  the  varieties. 


CHAPTER   XXXVIII 
SWEET  POTATOES 

Soil  and  climate.  The  sweet  potato  (Fig.  43)  belongs  to 
the  morning-glory  family  and  as  a  general  thing  requires 
entirely  different  treatment  from  that  given  the  white  pota- 
to. It  grows  best  in  the  South  because  of  its  tropical 
nature.  It  is  best  adapted  to  a  warm,  well-drained,  sandy 
loam  soil.  The  sweet  potato  is  grown  extensively  for  com- 
mercial purposes  as  far  north  as  the  southern  boundary  of 
Pennsylvania.  It  may  be  grown  in  a  limited  way  for  family 
use  in  southern  New  York  and  Michigan. 

Planting  and  cultivation.  Sweet  potatoes  are  usually 
planted  in  ridges  3  to  5  feet  apart  so  as  to  insure  good  drain- 
age. In  a  large  garden  these  ridges  may  be  made  by  throw- 
ing two  plow  furrows  together ;  in  a  small  garden  by  the  use 
of  the  spade,  shovel,  or  hand  hoe.  A  good  application  of 
fertilizer  should  be  mixed  with  the  soil  of  which  the  ridges 
are  composed. 

Plants  should  be  started  in  a  hotbed.  This  insures  early 
development  and  a  longer  season  for  the  crop's  growth. 
They  should  be  planted  12  to  14  inches  apart  in  the  row. 
Cultivate  frequently  and  thus  keep  the  soil  free  from  weeds 
and  provide  a  surface  mulch.  After  the  vines  cover  the 
ground  there  is  no  further  need  of  cultivation. 

Insect  enemies.  The  cutworm  is  an  enemy  of  the  sweet 
potato  and  frequently  destroys  many  plants.  For  the 
control  of  this  pest  consult  Chapter  XXXII. 

138 


SWEET  POTATOES 


139 


Fig.  43.     Sweet  potato  tubers.     The  sweet  potato,  one  of  the  most  impor- 
tant crops  grown  in  the  South,  in  suitable  locations  will  thrive 
and  yield  abundantly  in  Northern  gardens. 

Varieties.     Among  the  varieties  'of  sweet  potatoes  grown 
the  leading  ones  are : 

Improved  Jersey  Triumph 

STUDY    OUTLINE 

1.  Why  does  the  sweet  potato  do  best  in  the  South? 

2.  How  are  sweet  potatoes  planted  and  cultivated? 

3.  What  insect  frequently  does  injury  to  the  youn< 
plants? 

4.  How  may  it  be  destroyed? 

5.  Name  two  leading  varieties  of  the  sweet  potato. 


sweet  potato 


HOME    AND    COMMUNITY    WORK 

1.  Is  the  sweet  potato  grown  in  your  neighborhood?     If  so,  what 
variety  is  commonly  planted? 

2.  Tell  how  it  is  grown  and  cultivated. 

3.  Have  insects  ever  injured  the  crop? 

4.  What  methods  have  been  used  to  destroy  them? 


CHAPTER   XXXIX 

PEPPERS   AND   EGGPLANTS 

PEPPERS 

Climatic   conditions.      Peppers   grow  well   throughout  a 

large  part  of  the  country  (Fig.  44).     The  plants  are  tender, 

therefore  they  should  not   be  planted  out  until  after  all 

danger  of  frost  is  past. 

Planting  and  cultivation.  Pepper  plants  can  be  raised 
in  an  indoor  seed  box  or  a  hotbed.  In  this  case  the  seeds 
should  be  planted  about  eight  weeks  before  the  time  for 
transplanting  to  the  garden.  Plants  should  be  set  12  to  18 
inches  apart  in  the  rows.     The  distance  between  the  rows 


Fig.  44.     Green  peppers, 
salads  and  other  dishes. 


Sweet  peppers  add  an  appetizing  flavor  to 
They  are  now  cultivated  in  many  gardens. 

140 


PEPPERS  AND  EGGPLANTS 


141 


Fig.  45.     Eggplant.     The  eggplant  reaches  perfection  in  our  hot  dry 
summers.     This  plant  is  becoming  more  common  in  the  home  garden. 

should  be  2}2  to  3  feet.  Where  seeds  are  sown  in  the  open 
ground  use  %  ounce  to  100  feet  of  row  space,  planting  YA  inch 
deep.  Peppers  under  favorable  conditions  mature  in  from 
100  to  140  days. 

Varieties.     Some   varieties   of  peppers   that   have   been 
successfully  grown  are: 


SWEET 

Bull  Nose 
Sweet  Spanish 


HOT 

Long  Red  Cayenne 
Red  Cluster 


EGGPLANTS 

Planting  and  cultivation.  Eggplant  seed  should  be  sown 
in  an  indoor  seed  box,  hotbed,  or  green  house  about  two 
months  before  time  to  set  out  the  plants  in  the  garden, 


142  GARDEN   CROPS 

which  should  not  be  done  until  after  all  danger  of  frost 
is  over.  Plant  them  18  to  24  inches  apart  in  rows  3  feet 
apart. 

Keep  the  rows  free  from  weeds  and  the  soil  thoroughly 
cultivated.  If  the  soil  is  rich,  12  or  15  good  plants  will  be 
sufficient  to  supply  a  family  of  four  (Fig.  45)-  The  egg- 
plant is  injured  by  the  same  enemies  that  trouble  the 
white  potato  (Chapter  XXXVII). 

Varieties.  Among  varieties  to  be  recommended  for  the 
home  garden  are: 

Florida  High  Bush 
Black  Beauty 

STUDY    OUTLINE 

1.  What  culture  is  required  for  peppers  and  eggplants? 

2.  Name  one  variety  of  sweet  peppers  and  one  of  hot  peppers. 

3.  Name  two  varieties  of  eggplant. 

4.  What  enemies  injure  the  eggplant? 

5.  How  are  these  controlled? 

HOME    AND    COMMUNITY    WORK 

1.  What  types  and  varieties  of  peppers  are  grown  in  your  neighbor- 
hood? 

2.  What  use  is  made  of  them? 

3.  What  kinds  of  eggplants  have  been  grown? 

4.  Find  out,  if  possible,  the  normal  yield  in  one  season  from  one  dozen 
eggplants. 


CHAPTER   XL 
TOMATOES 

Soil  and  climate.  Tomatoes  are  grown  in  nearly  all 
gardens  (Fig.  46).  Some  gardeners  succeed  best  with  them 
when  they  are  grown  in  a  fertile  sandy  loam  with  well- 
drained  clay  as  a  subsoil. 

Planting  and  cultivation.  Plants  for  home  use  may  be 
procured  by  planting  seeds  in  an  indoor  seed  box  eight 
weeks  before  time  for  setting  out  in  the  garden.  When 
2  inches  high  the  plants  should  be  transplanted  to  another 


Fig.  46.     Tomatoes.    The  fruit  of  this  plant  once  thought  to  be  poisonous  is 

now  one  of  the  most  popular  and  widely  used  of  our  garden  vegetables. 

It  reaches  its  greatest  perfection  in  American  gardens. 

box,  hotbed,  or  cold  frame.     They  should  be  placed  2  or 
3  inches  apart  in  the  new  location.     When  the  plants  begin 

143 


144 


GARDEN    CROPS 


to  crowd  under  these  conditions,  transplant  each  one  to  a 
separate  container.  Use  clay  or  paper  flower  pots  or  old 
strawberry  boxes  for  this  purpose.  When  all  danger  of 
frost  is  over,  remove  the  plants  from  the  pots,  being  careful 


**&&!*J 

-^^ 

,3^      .'    <»» 

, 

Wfff.:  Mm 

«  /--.¥i: 

v*fi     fcfjtlV*  J  I 

IP    ? 

-    ■■ .. 

Slflrt^jJ 

7»     *! 
H2M 

Fig.  47.     r/te  gardener  who  trains  his  tomatoes  to  stakes  finds  it  easier 

to  cultivate,  spray,  and  harvest  his  crop,  and  will  have  an  added 

satisfaction  in  the  neat  appearance  of  his  garden. 

to  keep  all  dirt  upon  the  roots,  and  set  them  out  in  the 
garden.  If  berry  boxes  are  used,  cut  the  bottoms  out  and 
place  the  boxes  in  the  row. 

Staking  and  pruning.  If  the  plants  are  to  be  pruned  to 
one  or  two  stems  and  staked  up,  when  setting  them  out  the 
best  way  is  to  put  them  18  inches  apart  in  rows  3  feet  apart. 
If  plants  are  not  to  be  pruned,  put  them  3  feet  apart  in  rows 
4  feet  apart. 


TOMATOES  145 

The  advantages  resulting  from  staking  and  pruning  are: 

1.  The  fruit  ripens  earlier. 

2.  Fungous  diseases  are  diminished. 

3.  Spraying,  cultivation,  and  harvesting  are  more  easily 
accomplished. 

4.  Space  is  economized. 

Insect  enemies.  Flea-beetles,  tomato  worms,  and  cut- 
worms are  common  enemies  of  the  tomato.  Flea-beetles 
and  tomato  worms  may  be  repelled  by  thoroughly  spraying 
the  plants  with  arsenate  of  lead.  For  the  use  of  this  poison 
see  Chapter  XXXII.  The  control  of  the  cutworm  is  also 
discussed  in  that  chapter. 

Diseases.  The  tomato  is  subject  to  a  number  of  plant 
diseases.  These  may  usually  be  controlled  by  regular  appli- 
cations on  a  clear  day  of  Bordeaux  mixture  before  the 
diseases  appear  (Chapter  XXXVII).  This  mixture  should 
be  applied  to  the  plants  shortly  after  they  come  up  in  the 
seed  box  and  every  two  weeks  thereafter  until  the  crop  is 
harvested  (Fig.  47). 

Varieties.  A  few  of  the  varieties  of  tomatoes  that  have 
been  widely  used  are: 


EARLY 

MEDIUM 

AND 

LATE 

Earliana 

Globe 

Ponderosa 

John  Baer 

Red  Rock 

Matchless 

Acme 

Stone1 

STUDY    OUTLINE 

1.  Describe  some  methods  of  planting  and  cultivating  tomatoes. 

2.  Tell  how  to  stake  and  prune  tomato  vines.     What  advantages,  if 
any,  will  result? 


1  The  Stone  variety  is  used  for  canning. 
10 


146  GARDEN    CROPS 

3.  What  insects  and  plant  diseases  injure  tomatoes? 

4.  What  are  the  best  remedies  to  use? 

5.  Name  varieties  of  tomatoes  that  are  planted  early;  varieties  that 
are  planted  for  medium  and  late  crops;  a  good  canning  variety. 

6.  Find  out  and  report  items  concerning  the  origin  and  history  of 
the  tomato. 

HOME    AND    COMMUNITY    WORK 

Visit  among  the  gardens  in  your  neighborhood  and  be  prepared  to 
answer  the  following: 

1.  How  are  the  tomato  vines  usually  supported? 

2.  Are  the  vines  pruned? 

3.  What  enemies  do  them  most  injury? 

4.  What  methods  are  used  to  control  these  enemies? 

5.  What  varieties  of  tomatoes  are  most  popular? 


CHAPTER   XLI 
BEANS 

Classes  and  kinds.  Beans  are  divided  into  two  general 
groups  or  classes,  field  beans  and  garden  beans.  Here 
we  shall  consider  only  the  garden  type.  It  includes  both 
bush  and  pole  beans,  and  both  of  these  are  also  further 
divided  into  two  classes,  kidney  and  lima.  The  kidney  pole 
and  the  kidney  bush  beans  are  of  two  kinds,  wax  and  green- 
pod.  Some  gardeners  classify  beans  as  snap,  string,  green 
shell,  and  dry  shell,  in  order  to  distinguish  the  different 
kinds. 

Snap  or  string  beans  (Fig.  48)  may  be  eaten  while  the 
pods  are  green.  Green  shell  beans  are  eaten  before  the  crop 
is  ripe.  Dry-shell  beans  are  eaten  after  the  beans  are  fully 
ripened  and  have  become  dry.  Green  shell  beans  may  be 
used  like  the  dry  shell  kinds,  if  they  are  allowed  to  remain 
on  the  vines  and  ripen  thoroughly. 

Where  beans  are  grown.  Beans  are  grown  in  all  kinds 
of  soil  and  in  gardens  in  almost  all  parts  of  the  world. 
They  should  not  be  planted  in  a  rich  muck  soil  as  they  will 
then  go  to  vine;  that  is,  many  and  large  vines  will  be  pro- 
duced but  they  will  bear  very  few  beans.  No  kind  of  bean 
can  stand  a  heavy  frost.  Beans,  therefore,  should  not  be 
planted  until  all  danger  of  frost  is  over. 

Planting  and  cultivation.  The  bush  varieties  are  more 
hardy  than  the  pole  beans,  therefore  they  can  be  planted 
earlier.  The  lima  bean  requires  a  longer  season  for  matur- 
ing.    The  dwarf  varieties  of  the  string  bean  mature  quickly, 

147 


148 


GARDEN    CROPS 


therefore  they  are  some  of  the  first  beans  to  be  found  on  the 
market.  When  planting  bush  beans  place  the  seed  in  rows 
18  inches  apart  and  lA  to  i  inch  deep  in  the  soil,  using  i  pint 
of  beans  to  ioo  feet  of  row  space  with  plants  6  inches  apart. 
Plant  pole  beans  in  hills  4  feet  apart  each  way  and  4  beans 
in   a  hill,  using  XA  pint  of  seed  to  100  feet  of  row  space. 

Cover  the  beans  1 
inch  deep  with  fine 
soil.  Drive  an  8 -foot 
pole  10  inches  deep 
into  the  soil  in  each 
hill.  Slant  the  poles 
in  two  adjoining  hills 
in  two  adjoining  rows 
in  such  a  way  that 
they  may  be  tied  to- 
gether at  the  top  in 
Indian  wigwam  fash- 
ion. The  beans  will 
climb  and  cling  to 
the  poles.  Pole  beans  may  be  planted  with  sweet  corn,  and 
the  vines  permitted  to  climb  the  corn  stalks.  Occasionally 
beans  are  planted  in  rows  and  the  vines  permitted  to  run  on 
wire  netting  placed  for  this  purpose.  Beans  should  not  be  cul- 
tivated when  the  dew  is  on  the  leaves  or  when  the  vines  are 
wet  with  rain.  Frequent  shallow  cultivation  is  necessary. 
Varieties.  The  following  varieties  have  proved  satis- 
factory throughout  a  large  territory: 

BUSH  GREEN  POLE  GREEN  BUSH  LIMA  POLE  LIMA 

Green  Pod  Kentucky  Wonder     Landreth  Seibert 

Red  Valentine  Burpee's  Bush      Ideal 


Fig.  48.     Green  or  snap  beans. 


BEANS  149 

STUDY    OUTLINE 

1.  Into  how  many  general  groups  are  beans  divided,  and  what  arc 
they? 

2.  Into  what  two  divisions  is  the  garden  bean  divided? 

3.  How  are  the  bush  and  pole  beans  further  divided? 

4.  Into  what  divisions  are  the  kidney  pole  and  the  kidney  bush  beans 
divided? 

5.  What  other  names  are  used  to  distinguish  the  different  kinds  of 
beans? 

6.  Why  should  we  avoid  planting  beans  in  a  very  rich  soil? 

7.  Give  methods  used  in  planting  bush  beans;   pole  beans. 

8.  How  and  when  should  they  be  cultivated? 

9.  Name  some  leading  varieties  of  beans. 

HOME    AND    COMMUNITY    WORK 

1.  What  types  and  varieties  of  beans  are  most  commonly  raised  in 
your  community? 

2.  Which  varieties  seem  to  give  the  best  satisfaction  there? 

3.  What  methods  are  used  for  growing  the  different  kinds? 

4.  What  plant  diseases  and  enemies  do  the  most  injury? 

5.  How  are  these  diseases  and  enemies  prevented  from  injuring  beans? 


0 

CHAPTER   XLII 
BEAN   ENEMIES   AND   THEIR   CONTROL 

Diseases.  Bean  anthracnose  is  a  fungous  disease  which 
attacks  the  stem,  leaves,  pods,  and  seeds  of  the  bean  plant. 
The  disease  may  be  detected  by  the  spots  or  cankers  that 
have  pink  centers  surrounded  by  a  darker  reddish  border. 
It  may  be  prevented  by  selecting  healthy  seed  and  by  rota- 
tion of  garden  crops.  Bean  blight  produces  irregular,  dis- 
eased areas  which,  according  to  Farmers'  Bulletin  856,  at 
first  have  a  water-soaked  appearance  but  later  dry  out  and 
become  brown  and  brittle.  When  a  bean  seed  is  affected 
with  blight  it  shows  yellow  blotches  and  sometimes  becomes 
entirely  yellow  and  shriveled.  Blight  may  be  prevented 
by  using  the  same  remedies  that  have  been  suggested  for 
anthracnose. 

Downy  mildew  sometimes  attacks  lima  beans.  Spraying 
with  Bordeaux  mixture  at  ten-day  intervals  is  recommended 
for  the  prevention  of  mildew  (Chapter  XXXVII). 

Insects.  The  most  harmful  insect  enemy  of  the  bean  is 
the  bean  weevil.  This  cannot  be  controlled  in  the  field  or 
garden  but  only  through  the  seed.  As  soon  as  the  crop 
is  harvested,  the  beans  should  be  fumigated  with  carbon 
bisulphide.  For  details  concerning  this  process  consult 
Farmers'  Bulletin  jgg. 

The  bean  ladybird,  leaf-beetle,  and  blister  beetle  may 
be  repelled  by  spraying  with  arsenate  of  lead  (Chapter 
XXXII).  When  beans  are  young  the  vines  are  very  ten- 
der, therefore  at  this  stage  of  their  growth  the  preparation 

150 


BEAN   ENEMIES   AND   THEIR   CONTROL  151 

applied  should  be  only  one-half  strength  to  avoid  burning 
the  plants. 

The  bean  aphis  is  a  plant-louse  that  may  be  controlled 
by  the  use  of  nicotine  sulphate.  For  a  small  garden  use 
1  teaspoonful  to  1  gallon  of  water,  to  which  add  a  i-inch 
cube  of  hard  soap  after  it  is  thoroughly  dissolved.  For  a 
larger  garden  1  fluid  ounce  to  8  gallons  of  water  is  recom- 
mended by  Farmers'  Bulletin  856.  When  this  quantity  is 
used  XA  pound  of  soap  should  be  dissolved  in  the  poison 
mixture. 

The  melon  aphis,  pea  aphis,  cabbage  aphis,  turnip 
aphis,  and  spinach  aphis  may  also  be  controlled  by  the  use 
of  nicotine  sulphate. 

STUDY    OUTLINE 

1.  What  is  bean  anthracnose?  How  may  it  be  detected  and  how 
prevented? 

2.  How  may  we  detect  bean  blight?     How  prevent  it? 

3.  How  may  downy  mildew  be  prevented? 

4.  How  is  Bordeaux  mixture  prepared? 

5.  What  insect  is  most  harmful  to  the  bean?  How  is  it  prevented 
from  injuring  beans? 

6.  What  other  insect  enemies  have  beans?  How  prevent  them  from 
injuring  beans? 


CHAPTER   XLIII 


SWEET   CORN   AND   POP   CORN 

SWEET  CORN 
Soil  and  climate.  Sweet  corn  is  grown  throughout 
a  large  area  of  our  country  and  under  many  different 
conditions  of  soil  and  climate.  Generally  speaking,  condi- 
tions favoring  field  corn  are  satisfactory  for  sweet  corn. 
Planting  and  cultivation.  Sweet  corn  should  be  planted 
as  early  as  the  ground  can  be  worked  and  the  soil  becomes 

warm.  Use  YA  pint  of  seed  to  ioo 
feet  of  row  space.  The  hills  should 
be  3  feet  apart,  with  4  grains  in  a 
hill,  covered  i%  inches  deep.  If 
corn  is  planted  in  rows,  the  plants 
should  be  thinned  to  15  inches  a- 
part  in  the  row.  Sweet  corn  should 
be  planted  every  three  weeks  until 
late  summer.  By  this  means  there 
will  be  a  continuous  supply  of  green 
corn  for  the  table.  Some  gardeners 
attain  the  same  result  by  planting 
early,  medium,  and  late  varieties. 
Sweet  corn  should  be  used  as  soon 
as  possible  after  the  ears  are  re- 
moved from  the  stalks  as  it  loses  its 
flavor  very  quickly. 

Keep  the  soil  loose  and  free  from 
weeds  by  frequent  cultivation.     At 

152 


Fig.  49.  Golden  Bantam 
sweet  com. 


SWEET  CORN  AND  POP  CORN  I53 

the  last   cultivation  the  soil  should  be  pulled   around  the 
stalks  to  give  them  support. 

Enemies.  The  corn  root-aphis  is  an  enemy  that  may  be 
controlled  by  crop  rotation,  a  free  use  of  fertilizers  to  stimu- 
late plant  growth,  and  by  plowing  or  spading  the  soil  in  the 
fall. 

The  corn  earworm,  another  enemy,  may  be  killed  by 
applying  arsenate  of  lead  to  the  silk  early  in  the  season, 
repeating  the  application  if  the  worms  do  not  disappear. 
Late  sweet  corn  is  less  liable  to  attack  from  this  pest  than 
the  early  crop. 

Cutworms  and  flea-beetles  may  be  controlled  by  the 
methods  suggested  in  Chapters  XXXII  and  XXXVII. 

Diseases.  Bacterial  blight  sometimes  attacks  sweet  corn. 
It  may  be  partially  controlled  by  destroying  infected  seed 
and  rotating  crops.  If  smut  boils  appear,  cut  and  burn 
them  before  they  mature  and  burst. 

Varieties.  Sweet  corn  is  one  of  our  most  popular  vege- 
tables.    Some  of  the  best  known  varieties  are : 

EARLY  MEDIUM  AND  LATE 

Golden  Bantam  Country  Gentleman 

Black  Mexican  Evergreen 

POP  CORN 
Planting  and  cultivation.  Pop  corn  is  grown  practically 
in  the  same  way  as  sweet  corn.  It  is  a  very  common 
crop  throughout  the  corn  belt.  Pop  corn  must  not  be 
planted  too  thick.  Experienced  gardeners  recommend 
that  it  be  planted  in  hills  30  to  36  inches  apart  and  thinned 
to  three  stalks  in  a  hill.  When  cultivated  with  horse-drawn 
tools  the  rows  also  should  be  30  to  36  inches  apart,  but  when 
it  is  to  be  cultivated  by  hand  24  to  28  inches  are  sufficient. 


154  GARDEN   CROPS 

Great  care  is  necessary  in  the  curing  and  storing  of  pop 
corn.  After  it  has  been  husked  clean,  it  is  frequently  placed 
on  shelves  in  the  pantry  to  dry.  Pop  corn  will  not  pop  until 
it  is  dry.  On  the  other  hand,  sometimes  old  pop  corn  gets 
too  dry  and  fails  to  pop.  When  the  corn  is  fairly  dry  place 
it  for  storage  in  well-ventilated  containers  that  are  pro- 
tected from  mice.  If  space  and  conditions  permit,  spread 
out  on  the  floor  in  a  dry  room. 

Varieties.  There  are  three  standard  varieties  of  pop 
corn,  the  first  two  of  which  pop  best,  while  the  last  is  particu- 
larly suited  for  stringing  and  coating  with  sugar  : 

Rice  (rough-kerneled) 

Pearl  (smooth,  small-kerneled) 

Yankee  (smooth,  large-kerneled) 


STUDY    OUTLINE 
i.  What  culture  does  sweet  corn  require? 

2.  Name  the  most  important  enemies  of  sweet  corn. 

3.  How  may  we  prevent  these  from  injuring  the  corn? 

4.  Name  one  early,  one  medium,  and  one  late  variety  of  sweet  corn. 

5.  Name  three  varieties  of  pop  corn  and  the  uses  made  of  each  variety. 

HOME    AND    COMMUNITY    WORK 

1 .  What  varieties  of  sweet  corn  are  most  satisfactory  to  the  gardeners 
of  your  neighborhood? 

2.  What  enemies  have  they  found  do  this  crop  the  most  injury? 

3.  What  methods  are  used  in  your  neighborhood  to  prevent  these 
enemies  from  injuring  the  crop. 


CHAPTER   XLIV 

CUCUMBERS 

Soil  and  climate.  The  cucumber  requires  a  rich,  mellow 
soil  and  a  warm  climate  for  its  best  development.  Stable 
or  commercial  fertilizers  should  be  put  in  the  cucumber 
hills  or  rows. 

Planting  and  cultivation.  Cucumbers  are  easily  injured 
by  the  cold.  For  this  reason,  do  not  plant  the  seed  until  all 
danger  of  frost  is  over.  To  secure  an  early  crop,  plant  seed 
in  plant  bands,  berry  boxes,  or  inverted  sods,  placing  these 
containers  in  an  indoor  box  or  hotbed.  Transplant  the 
plants  directly  to  the  garden,  leaving  them  in  the  con- 
tainers. When  seed  is  planted  in  the  open  in  rows,  use 
H  ounce  to  ioo  feet  of  row  space.  Plant  i  inch  deep  and 
make  the  rows  5  or  6  feet  apart.  When  planted  in  rows 
thin  the  plants  to  stand  18  inches  apart.  When  planted  in 
hills  use  10  or  12  seeds  to  the  hill  and  thin  them  to  3  strong 
plants  in  each  hill  (Fig.  50).  Young  cucumber  plants  are 
destroyed  in  great  numbers  by  the  cucumber  beetle,  there- 
fore it  is  important  to  have  surplus  plants  in  the  hills  or  rows. 

Cucumbers  should  be  given  frequent  cultivation  while 
the  vines  are  small.  After  the  vines  have  grown  to  cover 
most  of  the  row  space  all  weeds  should  be  pulled  by  hand. 
During  the  early  season  the  fruit  should  be  removed  from 
the  vines  before  it  is  allowed  to  ripen.  This  stimulates  the 
vines  to  greater  productiveness. 

Companion  crops.  Early  bunch  beans,  lettuce,  or  rad- 
ishes can  be  used  as  companion  crops  with  cucumbers. 

155 


i56 


GARDEN    CROPS 


Enemies.  The  striped  and  the  twelve-spotted  cucumber 
beetles  are  the  greatest  insect  enemies  of  the  cucumber. 
If  the  garden  contains  only  a  few  plants  make  small  frames 
covered  with  cheesecloth  to  protect  them  from  the  beetles. 
A  solution  made  by  mixing  arsenate  of  lead  and  a  small 


Fig.  50.     Three  choice  cucumbers.     Every  garden  should  have  a  jew 

cucumber  hills.     If  garden  space  is  limited  plant  seeds  near  the  fence 

and  encourage  the  vines  to  climb  and  cling  to  the  wire  or  board. 

quantity  of  Bordeaux  mixture  will  repel  or  destroy  the 
beetle  and  prevent  its  injuring  the  foliage. 

The  melon  aphis  is  another  of  the  special  enemies  of  the 
cucumber.  To  destroy  it  follow  the  suggestions  in  Chapter 
XLII. 

Protecting  cucumber  plants  from  the  beetles  also  helps 
to  keep  them  free  from  diseases.  If  wilt,  anthracnose,  and 
downy  mildew  appear,  spray  with  Bordeaux  mixture. 


CUCUMBERS  157 

Varieties.     Good  varieties  widely  and  successfully  grown 
by  gardeners  are: 

Emerald  White  Spine 

STUDY    OUTLINE 

1.  How  should  cucumbers  be  planted  to  secure  an  early  yield? 

2.  Why  should  the  fruit  in  the  early  season  be  removed  from  the  vines 
before  it  is  allowed  to  ripen? 

3.  Suggest  companion  crops  suitable  to  be  planted  with  cucumbers. 

4.  What  are  the  most  harmful  enemies  of  the  cucumber? 

5.  How  may  they  be  prevented  from  injuring  the  vines? 

6.  What  plant  diseases  attack  the  cucumber? 

7.  How  may  they  be  prevented? 

8.  Name  two  well-known  varieties  of  the  cucumber. 

HOME    AND    COMMUNITY    WORK 

1.  Are  cucumbers  cultivated  in  the  gardens  of  your  community? 

2.  If  so,  what  companion  crops,  if  any,  are  planted  with  them? 

3.  What  insect  enemies  have  been  reported?     What  plant  diseases 
noticed?     State  methods  used  to  control  these  enemies. 

3.  What  varieties  of  cucumbers  are  grown  in  the  gardens  of  your 
neighborhood? 

4.  What  kinds  have  proved  most  successful? 


CHAPTER   XLV 
MELONS 

Soil  and  climate.  Soil,  climatic  conditions,  and  cultiva- 
tion required,  as  well  as  remedies  for  protection  from  insects 
and  diseases,  are  about  the  same  for  melons  as  for  cucumbers. 

Watermelons.  Watermelons  (Fig.  51)  should  be  in  hills 
from  8  to  10  feet  apart  each  way.  Plant  10  to  12  seeds  in 
each  hill.  Thin,  leaving  3  good  plants  in  each  hill.  When 
planting  in  rows  make  them  8  feet  apart.  Thin  the  plants 
so  that  they  will  stand  30  inches  apart  in  a  row. 


Courtesy  of  Livingston  Seed  Company 

Fig.  51.     A  watermelon  of  the  Tom  Watson  variety.     A  melon  that 

ripens  in  your  own  garden  has  a  finer  flavor  than  one  from  the 

market.     Plant  a  few  hills. 

Muskmelons.  Muskmelons  (Fig.  52)  may  be  in  hills  6 
feet  apart  each  way.  Plant  10  to  12  seeds  in  each  hill.  Thin, 
leaving  4  of  the  best  plants  in  each  hill.     When  planting 

158 


MELONS 


Courtesy  of  Livingston  Seed  Company 

Fig.  52.     Ohio  Sugar  muskmelon.     This  mdou,  one  of  the  most  de- 
licious of  our  garden  products,  may  be  grown  almost  anywhere. 

in  rows  put  the  seeds  6  to  8  feet  apart.  Thin  the  plants 
so  that  they  will  stand  20  inches  apart  in  a  row. 

Citron  melons.  The  citron  melon  is  a  type  of  water- 
melon. It  has  solid  flesh  which  is  much  used  for  preserves 
or  sweet  pickles.  Directions  for  the  cultivation  of  the  citron 
melon  are  the  same  as  for  watermelon. 

Enemies.  The  insect  enemies  and  plant  diseases  of 
melons  are  the  same  as  those  of  cucumbers.  For  their 
control  see  Chapter  XLIV. 

Varieties.  Some  varieties  of  melons  that  have  proved 
both  successful  and  popular  are: 

MUSKMELON  CITRON  MELON 


WATERMELON 

Tom  Watson 
Florida  Favorite 


Rocky  Ford 
Ohio  Sugar 


Colorado  Preserving 


160  GARDEN   CROPS 


STUDY    OUTLINE 


i.  What  conditions  of  soil  and  climate  do  melons  require? 

2.  Suggest  methods  for  planting  muskmelons. 

3.  Name  two  varieties  of  muskmelons. 

4.  How  are  watermelons  planted? 

5.  Name  two  varieties  of  watermelons. 

6.  What  enemies  injure  melons?     How  is  each  controlled? 

7.  What  is  the  citron  melon?     How  is  it  grown? 

HOME    AND    COMMUNITY    WORK 

1.  What  melons  are  grown  in  the  gardens  of  your  neighborhood? 

2.  What  methods  did  the  gardeners  use  in  growing  melons? 

3.  What  enemies  have  done  injury  to  the  crop? 

4.  What  means  were  used  to  destroy  the  enemies? 


CHAPTER   XLVI 
SQUASHES  —  VEGETABLE  MARROWS  —PUMPKINS 

SQUASHES 

The  squash  is  a  good  plant  to  grow  in  corners  or  other 
spaces  in  the  garden  that  might  not  otherwise  be  utilized. 
Squashes  are  sometimes  planted  so  that  the  vines  may 
grow  over  ash-piles,  rough  banks,  or  over  unsightly  places 
in  the  back  yard,  in  vacant  lots  or  in  the  garden  (Fig.  54). 

There  are  two  kinds  of  squash  adapted  to  garden  culture, 
summer  squash  (Fig.  53),  which  usually  keeps  only  a  short 
time  after  it  is  removed  from  the  vine,  and  winter  squash 


Fig.   53.     A  good  summer  squash.     This  variety,  commonly  known  as 

the  "Patty  Pan,"  matures  early  and  will  thrive  in  any 

odd  corner   of  the  garden  plot. 

which  is  gathered  about  the  time  of  the  first  frost  and  may 
be  kept  through  the  winter. 


11 


[6i 


162 


GARDEN    CROPvS 


Soil  and  climate.  Squashes  require  a  rich  mellow  soil. 
They  are  very  easy  to  grow  and  thrive  in  most  all  parts 
of  the  country. 

Planting  and  cultivation.  Summer  squash  should  be 
planted  in  hills  4  feet  apart,  and  winter  squash  6  to  8  feet 
apart  each  way.  The  seed  should  not  be  planted  in  the 
open  until  all  danger  of*  frost  is  past.  For  an  early  crop 
seed  may  be  planted  in  sods,  seed  boxes,  or  plant  bands, 
as  recommended  for  cucumbers  (Chapter  XLIV).  Started 
in  this  way  the  crop  should  be  ready  for  the  table  by  July. 
Winter  squash  seed  may  be  planted  as  late  as  July  1 ,  ex- 
cept in  the  northern  states. 


Fig.  54.     Summer  squashes  grown  by  school  children  of  the  first  grade. 

The  cultivation  and  care  of  the  squash  is  the  same  as 
that  already  suggested  for  cucumbers  and  melons. 


SQUASHES  —  VEGETABLE  MARROWS  — PUMPKINS        163 

Enemies.  The  insect  enemies  mentioned  in  connection 
with  the  cucumber  (Chapter  XLIV)  sometimes  attack 
squash.  Squashes  frequently  escape  attacks  from  cucumber 
beetles  and  the  melon  aphis  but  are  injured  by  the  squash 
bug  commonly  known  from  its  odor  as  the  "stink  bug." 
This  insect  like  the  aphis  is  a  sucking  insect,  and  cannot 
therefore  be  poisoned  with  arsenate  of  lead  or  Paris  green. 
The  bugs  are  large  and  may  be  hand-picked  and  killed. 
They  may  also  be  controlled  by  the  use  of  nicotine  sulphate 
(Chapter  XLII).  Some  gardeners  trap  squash  bugs  by 
placing  shingles  or  small  boards  among  the  vines.  The  bugs 
take  shelter  there  at  night,  and  by  examining  these  sheltered 
places  in  the  mornings  early  in  the  season  they  may  be 
caught  and  killed. 

Varieties.  Good  varieties  of  summer  and  winter  squash 
to  grow  are : 

SUMMER  WINTER 

Summer  Crookneck  Hubbard 

Early  Jersey  Delicious 

White  Bush 
Yellow  Custard 

VEGETABLE  MARROWS 

.  Vegetable  marrows  resemble  pumpkins  in  appearance  and 
habits  of  growth.  They  should  be  gathered  while  the  outer 
skin  is  sufficiently  tender  to  be  broken  by  the  finger  nail. 
When  taken  while  young  and  tender  vegetable  marrows 
may  be  baked  and  served  like  sweet  potatoes,  and  when 
fried  they  are  considered  superior  to  eggplant.  They  have 
long  been  popular  in  England  and  are  now  coming  to  be 
better  known  in  this  country. 


164 


GARDEN    CROPS 


PUMPKINS 
The  soil  and  climatic  conditions  required  by  pumpkins  are 
the  same  as  those  that  are  best  for  squashes  (Fig.  55). 
Pumpkins  may  be  planted  in  hills  8  to  10  feet  apart.  They 
should  be  considered  a  field  crop,  and  are  often  planted  in 
the  corn  rows.  When  replanting  or  hoeing  corn,  farmers 
usually  plant  pumpkin  seed  in  the  space  where  no  corn  has 
come  up.  Pumpkin  seed  should  not  be  placed  in  the  corn 
drill  and  planted  at  the  same  time  the  corn  is  planted.  If 
this  is  done  the  pumpkin  seed  frequently  prevent  the  grains 
of  corn  from   passing    uniformly    through    the    corn    drill. 


R 

w*4 

aJ«L\ 

•  */'*  * 

•v.       '  HE*! 

lb  ' 

1   •           f< 

&"* ■ 

Fig. 


55.     "Some  pumpkins"     This  Gary,  Indiana,  girl,  when  told 
that  pumpkins  would  succeed  best  in  her  sandy  soil, 
determined  to  grow  a  maximum  crop. 


This    makes    a    uniform    stand    of    corn    impossible.     The 
enemies  of  pumpkins  are  the  same  as  those  of  squashes, 


SQUASHES— VEGETABLE   MARROWS— PUMPKINS  165 

Varieties.     Popular  varieties  of  pumpkins  are : 
Burpee's  Golden  Oblong  White  Cushaw 

Small  Sugar  Striped  Cushaw 


STUDY    OUTLINE 
i.  What  types  of  squashes  are  adapted  to  garden  culture? 


What  culture  is  required  for  squashes  and  pumpkins? 

3.  What  insect  enemies  injure  these  crops? 

4.  How  may  they  be  controlled? 

5.  Name  two  varieties  of  summer  and  two  varieties  of  winter  squashes. 

6.  Where  are  pumpkins  usually  grown? 

7.  What  are  vegetable  marrows? 

8.  How  may  they  be  served? 


HOME    AND    COMMUNITY    WORK 

1.  What  kinds  of  squashes  are  grown  in  your  community? 

2.  Where  are  they  usually  planted? 

3.  Have  any  enemies  attacked  the  squash  or  pumpkin  crops  in  your 
neighborhood? 

4.  If  so,  what  methods  have  been  used  to  control  them? 


CHAPTER   XLVII 
CELERY   AND    CELERIAC 


CELERY 

Soil  and  climate.  Celery  is  a  popular  garden  crop  to 
follow  early  vegetables.  For  successful  growth  it  requires 
a  deep,  rich,  loose,  moist  soil. 

Planting  and  cultivation.     Celery  is  usually  planted  in 

the  garden  space 
that  has  been  uti- 
lized for  early  crops. 
When  seed  is  plant- 
ed, use  34  ounce  to 
ioo  feet  of  row  space 
and  plant  H  of  an 
inch  deep.  The 
plants  should  be 
thinned  to  stand  6 
inches  apart  in  the 
rows.  The  rows  are 
usually  made  3  to  5 
feet  apart.  The 
plants  should  be 
kept  free  from  weeds 
by  hand-hoeing  and 
Fig.  56.    A  stalk  of  celery.  frequent  shallow  cul- 

tivation. If  it  is  desired  to  set  out  plants  instead  of  sowing 
seed  in  the  garden,  sow  the  seed  first  in  a  hotbed  or  cold 
frame  and  transplant. 

166 


CELERY   AND   CELERIAC 


167 


Blanching  celery.  As  the  plants  grow,  earth  should 
be  drawn  up  around  them,  in  order  to  give  the  leaves 
support  and  to  hold  the  stalks  upright. 
This  also  aids  the  blanching  process. 
If  earth  is  used  altogether  for  blanching 
care  should  be  taken  that  it  does  not 
get  into  the  hearts  of  the  plants.  In 
addition  to  earth,  boards,  paper,  and 
drain  tile  may  also  be  used  for  blanch- 
ing celery  (Figs.  57,  5 8  and  59). 

Storing.  If  celery  is  desired  for  winter 
use  it  may  be  left  in  the  garden  or  put 
in  the  cellar.  If  left  outdoors  the  rows 
must  be  banked  with  earth  and  the  tops 
covered  with  leaves  or  straw  to  prevent 
them  from  freezing.  Perhaps  the  safer 
way  for  the  inexperienced  gardener 
would  be  to  remove  the  plants  to  the 
cellar  or  storing  pit.  There  they  should 
be  reset  close  together  in  loose  earth  brought  for  the  purpose. 

If  celery  is  stored  in  cellars  or  pits  it  should  be  kept  as 
cool  as  possible,  but  the  temperature  should  not  be  below 
freezing. 

Enemies.  Early  and  late  leaf-blight  sometimes  attack 
celery.  They  may  be  controlled  by  Bordeaux  mixture  applied 
every  two  weeks.  The  celery  leaf -try  er,  caterpillar  and 
looper  may  all  be  controlled  with  arsenate  of  lead  (Chap- 
ter XXXII).  The  tarnished  plant-bug,  another  enemy, 
can  be  destroyed  with  nicotine  sulphate  (Chapter  XLII). 
If  insect  enemies  are  not  too  numerous,  it  may  be  possible 
to  overcome  them  by  hand-picking. 


Fig.  57.     Blanching 
celery  with  tile. 


^tfdi 

, 

L^-***iM 

.-■  . 

V  .'«<-*     •  v  -   •    • 
.  *M .    ;*   v  ;  ■..    &* 

-:>y 

ism  m.  »?.           .i-m 

r**^#r . 

ll*^^    » 

MMH5S&.       ^ESk/i^  x 

Fig.   58.     Bhauhing  celery  by  means  of  paper. 


^■■ii/^-iuw 


^#;.;:.'-^ .   ■- ' 


Fig.  59.     Blanching  celery  with  earth. 


CELERY   AND   CELERIAC  169 

Varieties.  Two  varieties  among  those  that  have  proved 
satisfactory  are : 

Easy  Blanching  Columbia 

CELERIAC 

Celeriac  is  another  kind  of  celery  that  is  used  only  for  its 
roots,  which  may  be  served  either  cooked  or  raw.  The  rules 
for  its  cultivation  are  the  same  as  for  celery,  but  of  course 
it  does  not  require  blanching.  By  applying  a  light  covering 
to  avoid  freezing,  the  roots  may  remain  in  the  ground  until 
used,  or  they  may  be  stored  like  carrots. 


STUDY    OUTLINE 

1.  What  culture  is  required  for  celery  and  celeriac? 

2.  Describe  the  various  methods  used  to  blanch  celery. 

3.  How  may  celery  and  celeriac  be  preserved  for  winter  use? 

4.  What  enemies  injure  celery? 

5.  How  are  they  destroyed? 

6.  Name  two  varieties  of  celery. 

HOME    AND    COMMUNITY    WORK 

1.  What  methods  are  used  for  blanching  celery  in  your  community? 

2.  How  are  celery  and  celeriac  preserved  for  winter  use? 

3.  What  enemies  injure  these  crops  in  your  neighborhood? 

4.  What  methods  are  used  to  prevent  their  injuring  the  crop? 


CHAPTER   XLVIII 

KALE   AND    CAULIFLOWER 

Kale,  cauliflower,  collards,  and  Brussels  sprouts  are 
garden  crops  that  are  all  related  to  the  cabbage  and  are 
used  as  substitutes  for  it.  Kale  (Figs.  60  and  61)  and 
collards  are  also  used  for  greens.  Since  their  uses  and  the 
culture  they  require  are  somewhat  similar,  they  may  be 
treated  together. 

KALE 

Soil  and  climate.  Kale  is  a  very  hardy  plant,  and  where 
severe  freezing  does  not  continue  too  long  it  can  be  left  in 
the  ground  all  winter.     It  does  best  in  a  rich,  mellow  soil. 


Fig.  60.     Kale.     This  plant  is  closely  related  to  cabbage  and  is  used 
chiefly  as  greens. 


170 


KALE   AND    CAULIFLOWER 


171 


Planting  and  cultivation.     The  culture  of  the  plant  is  the 
same  as  that  for  cabbage  (Chapter  XXXI).     Unlike  cab- 


Fig.  61.     A  fine  stand  of  kale.     This  crop  is  cultivated  in  the  same 
manner  as  turnips. 

bage,  kale  produces  no  head  but  has  convoluted  leaves  and 
a  thick  stem.  It  will  produce  continuously  if  only  a  few 
leaves  are  taken  off  at  a  time.  Light  frosts  not  only  do 
not  injure  the  plant  but  are  thought  greatly  to  improve 
its  flavor. 

Varieties.     Two  well-known  varieties  of  kale  are: 
Dwarf  Siberian 


172 


GARDEN   CROPS 


CAULIFLOWER 
Soil  and  climate.     Cauliflower  requires  a  rich,  moist  soil. 
This  plant  will  not  stand  as  much  frost  as  cabbage.     Hence 
it  should  be  planted  early  enough  to  mature  before  heavy 
frosts. 

Planting  and  cultivation.  The  planting  and  culture  of 
cauliflower  are  the  same  as  for  cabbage  (Chapter  XXXI). 
Cauliflower  must  be  grown  either  early  or  late  in  the 
season,  because  in  most  localities  it  will  not  head  properly 
in  mid  summer.  The  same  treatment  that  is  given  late 
cabbage  will  usually  prove  satisfactory  for  cauliflower. 

To  be  kept  white, 
the  heads  must  be 
protected  from  too 
much  light,  by  taking 
the  longer  leaves  and 
pulling  them  up  over 
the  head  and  tying 
them  together  at  the 
ends  (Fig.  62). 

Enemies.  The  ene- 
mies of  kale  and 
cauliflower  are  the 
same  as  those  of 
cabbage  (Chapters 
XXXI-XXXII). 

Varieties.  The 
most  widely   known 

variety  of  cauliflower 
Fig.  62.     A  cauliflower  plant.     Notice  •     fh      T?flriv    Qnnw 

how  the  leaves  are  tied  together  to  keep  1S   me    ^any    onow- 

the  sunlight  from  the  head.  ball  (Fig.  63). 


KALE   AND   CAULIFLOWER 


i  n 


Fig.  63.     A  fine  example  of  Snowball  Cauliflower. 


STUDY    OUTLINE 


What  is  the  chief  reason  for  producing  kale  and  cauliflower? 
Tell  the  soil  and  climate  required  for  the  production  of  kale. 
What  methods  are  used  in  producing  kale?     Name  two  varieties. 
Describe  the  soil  and  climate  required  for  the  production  of  cauli- 


flower. 

5.  How  are  the  heads  of  cauliflower  kept  white: 

6.  What  enemies  injure  kale  and  cauliflower? 
■  7.  How  are  these  controlled? 


HOME    AND    COMMUNITY    WORK 

1.  How  are  kale  and  cauliflower  used  in  your  community? 

2.  What  enemies  injure  these  crops? 

3.  How  are  they  controlled? 


CHAPTER   XLIX 
COLLARDS   AND   BRUSSELS    SPROUTS 

COLLARDS 

Soil  and  climate.  Collar ds,  like  cauliflower,  require  a 
rich,  moist  soil.  This  plant  will  stand  the  heat  better 
than  either  cabbage  or  kale.  This  makes  it  a  valuable 
crop  in  the  South  where  it  is  chiefly  grown. 

Description.  Collards  are  sometimes  called  non-heading 
cabbage.  Instead  of  a  true  head,  a  loose  rosette  of  leaves 
is  formed  on  the  top  of  the  tall,  sturdy  stem.  When  these 
are  young  they  are  very  tender  and  have  a  delicate  flavor. 
They  are  served  as  greens  (Chapter  LIII). 

Planting  and  cultivation.  The  culture  required  for  col- 
lards is  the  same  as  for  late  cabbage  and  kale  (Chapters 
XXXI  and  XLVIII). 

Varieties.  The  Creole  variety  is  the  one  that  is  best 
known  and  most  generally  used. 

BRUSSELS   SPROUTS 

Like  kale  and  cauliflower  Brussels  sprouts  are  related  to 
the  cabbage,  and  all  these  crops  require  a  similar  culture. 

Description.  Brussels  sprouts  form  a  number  of  small 
heads  in  the  axils  of  the  leaves,  instead  of  having  a  single 
head  like  cabbage.  As  these  small  heads  grow  and  begin  to 
crowd,  the  leaves  should  be  removed  from  the  stem  of  the 
plants  to  provide  more  space  for  the  heads  or  sprouts.  A 
few  leaves  should  be  left  on  the  top  of  the  plant. 

Storing.     Brussels  sprouts  are  very  hardy  and  can  be  left 

174 


COLLARDS  AND  BRUSSELS  SPROUTS  175 

out  all  winter  in  a  mild  climate.  A  better  way,  however,  is 
to  remove  the  plants  containing  the  best  formed  heads  to  a 
cellar,  storage  pit,  or  cold  frame.  Place  them  close  together 
and  cover  the  roots  with  earth. 

Enemies.  The  enemies  of  collards  and  Brussels  sprouts 
are  somewhat  similar  to  those  of  cabbage.  For  their  control 
see  Chapters  XXXI  and  XXXII. 

Varieties.  Not  many  varieties  of  this  crop  are  offered  by 
the  seed  houses,  but  satisfactory  ones  are : 

Paris  Market  Long  Island  Improved 

Dwarf  Perfection 


STUDY    OUTLINE 

1 .  Where  are  collards  usually  grown?     Why  is  it  a  favorite  crop  in  the 
South? 

2.  What  part  of  the  plant  is  used  for  food? 

3.  What  other  garden  crops  similarly  used  require  the  same  culture 
as  collards? 

4.  What  is  the  best  known  variety  of  collards? 

5.  How  are  Brussels  sprouts  produced? 

6.  What  enemies  do  injury  to  collards  and  Brussels  sprouts? 

7.  How  are  they  controlled? 

HOME    AND    COMMUNITY    WORK 
Visit  the  gardens  of  your  neighborhood  and  if  collards  or  Brussels 
sprouts  are  cultivated  there,  be  prepared  to  answer  the  following: 

1.  What  methods  of  culture  are  given  each? 

2.  What  enemies,  if  any,  have  injured  the  crops? 

3.  What  means  were  used  to  control  them? 


CHAPTER   L 
KOHL-RABI   AND    OKRA 

KOHL-RABI 

Culture.  For  an  early  crop  kohl-rabi  (Fig.  64)  requires 
the  same  culture  as  cabbage  (Chapter  XXXI). 

Description.  While  kohl-rabi  belongs  to  the  same  family 
as  the  cabbage  and  cauliflower  it  is  very  different  in  appear- 
ance from  either.  When  prepared  for  the  table  it  more 
closely  resembles  turnips  in  flavor  and  texture  than  cabbage. 

The  part  used  for  food  is  an  enlarged  portion  of  the  stem 
just  above  the  ground.  These  fleshy  stems  should  be  used 
when  young  and  tender. 


Courtesy  of  Livingston  Seed  Company 

Fig.  64.     Kohl-rabi.     This  is  an  excellent  vegetable  for  early  summer 
use.     The  seed  should  be  sown  where  it  is  to  mature. 

176 


KOHL-RABI  AND  OKRA 


177 


Varieties.     Good  varieties  of  kohl-rabi  that  may  be  rec- 
ommended to  the  young  gardener  are: 
Early  White  Vienna 
Early  Purple  Vienna 

OKRA 

Soil  and  climate.  Okra  does  best  in  a  rich  soil  and  a 
warm  climate  and  has  usually  been  considered  a  southern 
crop.  But  with  sufficient 
rainfall  and  a  warm  soil  it 
will  thrive  and  yield  abund- 
antly in  the  average  home 
garden. 

Planting  and  cultivation. 
Prepare  the  land  for  okra 
after  all  danger  of  frost  is 
over.  The  seed  should  be 
sown  about  the  time  beans 
are  planted.  It  will  take  2 
ounces  of  seed  to  plant  100 
feet  of  row  space.  The  rows 
should  be  4  feet  apart  for 
the  dwarf  kinds  and  5  feet 
apart  for  the  tall  ones.  The 
plants  should  be  thinned  to 
2  feet  apart  in  the  row. 

Edible  parts.  The  seed 
pods  (Fig.  65)  are  used  when 
green    and    tender    chiefly 

n  yr       ,  1  Courtesy  of  Livingston  Seed  Company 

to   fiavor  soups,     it    these       ^       ^        ^li./  j^j 

^  t  ric  65.      Okra  blossom  and  pod. 

are    gathered    just     before  The  large  blossoms  are  attractive. 


12 


1 78  GARDEN  CROPS 

they  ripen,  the  plants  will  continue  to  produce  until  killed 
by  frost.     The  best  pods  are  produced  on  young  plants. 

Varieties.     Some  varieties  of  okra  that  are  grown  with 
good  success  are: 

Lady  Finger  Long  Green  Perkins  Mammoth 


STUDY    OUTLINE 

i.  What  culture  do  kohl-rabi  and  okra  require? 

2.  What  parts  of  these  plants  are  used  for  food? 

3.  Name  two  varieties  of  kohl-rabi. 

4.  Name  two  varieties  of  okra. 

HOME    AND    COMMUNITY    WORK 
Visit  ten  gardeners  in  your  neighborhood  and  be  prepared  to  answer 
the  following: 

1.  How  many  have  grown  kohl-rabi  and  okra? 

2.  What  varieties  were  most  successful? 

3.  What  enemies,  if  any,  injured  these  plants? 

4.  What  means  were  taken  to  control  them? 


CHAPTER   LI 
SPRING   GREENS 

The  two  leading  garden  crops  used  for  "greens"  in  the 
spring  are  spinach  and  mustard  (Fig.  67).  Every  gardener 
should  make  provision  for  the  planting  of  one  or  both  of 
these  valuable  crops. 

Spinach.  The  most  important  plant  grown  exclusively 
for  greens  in  America  is  spinach  (Fig.  66).  It  is  a  cool- 
season  crop,  and  for  this  reason  should  be  planted  in  early 
spring  or  late  fall.     In  the  North  when  planted  in  the  fall 


Fig.  66.     A  spinach  plant.     By  growing  this  crop  in  spring  and  fall 

and  New  Zealand  spinach  during  the  summer  the  family  may 

be  provided  with  a  continuous  supply  of  greens. 

179 


i So  GARDEN   CROPS 

it  should  be  protected  from  the  cold  during  the  winter  by 
mulching  with  straw  or  leaves. 

The  seed  of  spinach  is  sown  H  to  i  inch  deep  and  at  the 
rate  of  i  ounce  to  ioo  feet  of  row  space.  The  plants  should 
stand  about  7  or  8  to  the  foot.  This  crop  requires  a  rich 
soil  for  successful  growth.  If  the  soil  is  not  fertile,  use  a 
light  application  of  nitrate  of  soda  in  the  rows.  When  the 
seed  is  sown  in  the  early  fall  3  or  4  ounces  will  furnish  a 
sufficient  amount  of  greens  for  the  family  during  the  fall 
and  early  spring. 

The  whole  of  the  spinach  plant,  not  merely  the  leaves,  is 
pulled  when  greens  are  desired.  The  larger  plants  are  used 
first,  and  by  this  practice  thinning  becomes  unnecessary. 
Always  keep  the  rows  free  from  weeds  and  cultivate  fre- 
quently. 

Varieties.     Two  varieties  of  spinach  that  have  been  suc- 
cessfully grown  in  many  gardens  are : 
Dutch  Savoy 

Mustard.  A  plant  that  is  frequently  used  for  greens  in 
place  of  spinach  is  mustard  (Fig.  67).  It  grows  in  almost 
any  garden  soil  and  thrives  best  in  a  cool  climate. 

The  seeds  are  planted  H  inch  deep  and  about  5  seeds  to 
the  inch.  Thin  the  plants  to  about  4  inches  apart  in  the 
row.   This  crop  can  be  planted  in  the  early  spring  or  late  fall. 

Either  the  entire  plant  or  individual  leaves  may  be  pulled 
for  greens.  Mustard  also  makes  a  pungent  salad  as  well 
as  supplying  greens  for  the  table,  and  its  seed  is  used  for 
seasoning  pickles,  etc. 

Varieties.  Two  varieties  of  mustard  which  have  usually 
given  satisfaction  are : 

Giant  Ostrich  Large-Leaved  Curled 


SPRING   GREENS 


Courtesy  of  Livingston  Seed  Company 

Fig.  67.     Mustard  and  kale  grown  for  greens.     Rows  1  and  4  are  kale 
to  be  used  for  summer  greens;  rows  2  and  j  mustard  for  spring  greens. 

STUDY    OUTLINE 

1.  Name  the  two  leading  crops  used  as  spring  greens  by  American 
gardeners? 

2.  Describe  the  methods  used  in  producing  spinach? 

3.  What  methods  are  used  for  mustard? 

4.  For  what  purpose  other  than  greens  is  mustard  used? 


HOME    AND    COMMUNITY    WORK 

Visit  the  homes  of  five  gardeners  in  your  neighborhood. 

1.  How  many  have  grown  spring  greens? 

2.  What  crop  has  been  most  largely  used  for  greens  in  the  homes 
visited?  * 


CHAPTER   LII 
SPRING   SALADS 

The  spring  salads  that  are  most  widely  grown  in  American 
gardens  are  leaf  lettuce,  garden  cress,  and  corn  salad. 

Leaf  lettuce.  The  culture  of  lettuce  has  already  been  dis- 
cussed (Chapter  XXVII).  This  applies  to  leaf  as  well  as 
head  lettuce. 

Garden  cress.  A  crop  that  is  easily  grown  and  one  that 
is  excellent  for  flavoring  salads  and  garnishing,  or  for  sand- 
wiches, is  garden  cress  or  pepper  grass. 

The  seed  should  be  sown  very  early  in  the  spring  about 
>2  inch  deep,  using  3  to  6  seeds  to  the  inch  in  rows  12  inches 
apart.  By  sowing  seed  every  ten  days  a  continuous  supply 
of  cress  will  be  provided. 

This  crop  will  be  ready  for  use  six  weeks  after  planting, 
if  it  has  been  kept  free  from  weeds  and  well  cultivated.  The 
entire  plant  is  generally  used  for  salad. 

Corn  salad.  The  plant  commonly  known  as  corn  salad 
is  also  called  lamb's  lettuce  and  fetticus.  This  plant  has 
never  been  very  largely  grown  in  America. 

Sow  the  seed  very  early  in  the  spring  in  rows  12  to  15 
inches  apart.  Cultivate  it  as  you  would  mustard  and  let- 
tuce. For  a  very  early  spring  crop  corn  salad  seed  may  be 
planted  in  the  fall  and  the  plants  covered  lightly  over 
winter  for  protection  against  the  cold  weather. 

The  plants  should  be  thinned  to  6  inches  apart  in  the  row 
to  secure  the  best  results.  The  crop  should  be  ready  for 
use  in  from  six  to  eight  weeks  after  planting. 

182 


SPRING   SALADS  183 

Corn  salad  is  frequently  used  alone  like  lettuce  as  a 
salad,  or  it  may  be  served  in  combination  with  lettuce  or 
garden  cress. 

STUDY    OUTLINE 

1.  What  crops  are  grown  for  spring  salads? 

2.  What  are  the  special  uses  of  garden  cress? 

3.  What  culture  does  garden  cress  require? 

4.  By  what  other  names  is  corn  salad  known? 

5.  What  culture  is  required  for  corn  salad? 

6.  How  is  corn  salad  prepared  for  the  table? 

HOME    AND    COMMUNITY    WORK 

1.  What  crops  are  grown  for  spring  salads  in  the  gardens  of  your 
community? 

2.  Which  have  proved  most  satisfactory  for  this  purpcse? 


CHAPTER   LIII 
GREENS   THAT   ENDURE   HEAT 

Chard  and  Swiss  chard,  kale  or  borecole,  collards,  and 
New  Zealand  spinach,  are  the  leading  garden  crops  grown 
for  summer  greens  by  American  gardeners.  Kale  has  already 
been  discussed  in  Chapter  XLVIII  and  collards  in  Chapter 
XLIX. 

Swiss  chard.  One  of  the  most  popular  plants  for  greens 
is  Swiss  chard.  It  belongs  to  the  beet  family  but  is  culti- 
vated for  its  foliage  instead  of  its  root.  Chard  is  prepared 
for  the  table  like  spinach.  The  tender  stems  are  frequently 
cooked  and  served  like  asparagus. 

The  leaves  may  be  cut  without  injury  to  the  plant.  Care 
should  be  used  in  removing  them  in  order  not  to  injure  the 
crown.  The  gardener  should  have  a  sufficient  number  of 
plants  to  make  it  possible  to  remove  only  a  few  leaves  at  a 
time  from  each  plant.  In  this  way  a  continuous  supply 
can  be  maintained. 

If  a  very  early  crop  of  Swiss  chard  is  desired,  the  plants 
may  be  started  either  in  an  indoor  seed  box  or  in  a  hotbed, 
and  later  set  out  in  the  garden. 

The  methods  suggested  for  the  planting  and  cultivation 
of  the  beet  (Chapter  XXXIII)  may  also  be  used  for  Swiss 
chard. 

Varieties.     The  one  variety  of  Swiss  chard  that  is  almost 
universally  grown  is: 
Giant  Lucullus 


GREENS   THAT   ENDURE    HEAT  185 

New  Zealand  spinach.  The  plant  known  as  New  Zealand 
spinach,  unlike  common  spinach,  withstands  heat  and  dry 
weather  and  produces  good  greens  during  the  summer 
months. 

New  Zealand  spinach  makes  a  much  larger  growth  than 
true  spinach,  and  should  therefore  be  given  more  garden 
space.  Rows  should  be  3  feet  apart  and  plants  thinned  to 
stand  15  or  18  inches  apart  in  the  row.  Seeds  may  be 
soaked  two  hours  in  warm  water  before  planting,  to  assist 
germination.  Plant  seed  } i  to  1  inch  deep,  using  from  3  to 
5  to  the  foot.  The  plants  taken  out  when  thinning,  if  not 
used  for  greens,  may  be  transplanted  to  other  garden  space. 

The  fleshy  young  leaves  and  tender  stems  are  prepared 
for  the  table  like  ordinary  spinach. 


STUDY    OUTLINE 

1.  What  methods  of  culture  are  required  for  kale? 

2.  What  are  required  for  collards? 

3.  How  is  Swiss  chard  grown? 

4.  Name  one  variety  of  Swiss  chard. 

5.  What  is  the  advantage  of  growing  New  Zealand  spinach  in  the 
garden? 

HOME    AND    COMMUNITY    WORK 

1.  What  summer  crops  are  grown  for  greens  in  your  community? 

2.  Which  have  proved  most  satisfactory? 


CHAPTER   LIV 


SALADS   THAT   ENDURE   HEAT 

The  chief  plants  grown  for  salads  in  hot  weather  are 
parsley,  upland  cress,  and  endive. 

Parsley.  America's  leading  plant  for  garnishing  foods  is 
parsley  (Fig.  68).  It  is  also  used  to  flavor  salads  and  soups. 
Sow  seeds  in  rows  12  inches  apart  and  thin  plants  to  stand 
4  inches  apart  in  the  row.  The  seeds  are  very  small  and 
germinate  slowly.  For  this  reason  the  garden  soil  should 
be  well  prepared  .and  the  seed  soaked  in  warm  water  before 

planting.  The  rows 
may  be  marked  with 
radishes. 

If  an  early  crop  is 
desired  the  seed  may 
be  sown  in  a  hotbed 
and  the  plants  trans- 
planted to  the  garden 
as  soon  as  the  ground 
can  be  worked.  The 
leaves  will  be  large 
enough  to  use  as  a 
garnish  about  three 
months  after  planting. 


Fig.  68.     Parsley.     Our  most  popular 
plant  for  garnishing. 


This  plant  will  withstand  dry  weather  and  continue  grow- 
ing until  the  ground  freezes.  If  taken  up  in  the  fall  and 
transplanted  to  indoor  seed  boxes  or  to  cold  frames  the 
plants  will  continue  to  grow  throughout  the  winter. 

186 


SALADS   THAT   ENDURE   HEAT  187 

Varieties.  The  most  desirable  varieties  for  the  home 
garden  are : 

Dwarf  Moss  Curled 

Upland  cress.  Seed  of  upland  cress  may  be  sown  in  the 
early  spring  and  will  continue  to  provide  leaves  for  salad 
all  through  the  summer  and  fall.  It  does  not  produce  seed 
the  first  year  and  in  the  North  is  killed  in  the  winter  unless 
well  protected  by  mulching  or  moving  to  the  cold  frame, 
indoor  seed  box,  or  cellar. 

The  seeds  are  sown  H  inch  deep  in  rows  12  inches  apart. 
The  plants  should  be  thinned  to  stand  18  to  20  inches  apart 
in  the  row. 

The  crop  is  ready  for  use  in  ten  weeks  after  the  seed  is 
sown.  When  care  is  exercised  in  removing  the  leaves  the 
plant  will  continue  to  produce  new  foliage  and  constantly 
furnish  a  fresh  supply  of  salad  material. 

Endive.  The  endive  is  one  of  the  finest  of  our  salad 
plants.  It  is  a  native  of  China  and  was  introduced  into 
America  from  Europe.  In  the  North  it  is  planted  in  June 
or  July.  The  seeds  are  sown  in  rows  18  inches  apart  and 
the   plants    thinned   to  stand   12  inches  apart  in  the  row. 

If  desired,  seed  may  be  sown  in  a  seed  bed  and  the  plants 
transplanted  later  to  the  garden.  If  the  weather  is  dry  the 
plants  will  need  watering  out  (Chapter  XVIII).  After  they 
get  started  the  plants  may  need  watering  during  the  dry, 
hot  weather  (Chapter  XX).  Cultivate  the  soil  frequently 
and  always  as  soon  as  possible  after  the  plants  have  been 
watered . 

Blanching.  After  the  outer  leaves  of  the  plant  are  8 
inches  long,  draw  them  up  and  tie  the  ends  together  in 
order  that  the  heart  may  blanch.     This  should  be  done  at 


1 88  GARDEN   CROPS 

a  time  when  there  is  no  moisture  on  the  plant.  The  blanch- 
ing process  requires  about  three  weeks.  Only  a  few  plants 
should  be  tied  up  at  a  time,  for  the  hearts  must  be  used  as 
soon  as  they  are  well  blanched;  otherwise,  they  soon  begin 
to  decay. 

When  the  gardener  wishes  to  have  salad  material  during 
the  winter  months  he  removes  some  of  the  late  endive 
plants  to  a  cellar  or  cold  frame.  These  plants  if  cared  for 
will  furnish  delightful  salads  for  the  winter. 

Varieties.     There  are  a  number  of  varieties  of  endive. 
The  varieties  generally  grown  are: 
White  Curled  Green  Curled 

STUDY    OUTLINE 

i.  Name  three  garden  salad  plants  that  withstand  the  summer  heat. 

2.  Give  the  methods  of  culture  required  for  parsley. 

3.  Name  two  varieties  of  parsley. 

4.  Describe  the  culture  required  for  upland  cress. 

5.  What  methods  of  planting  and  cultivating  does  endive  require? 

HOME    AND    COMMUNITY    WORK 

t.  What  summer  salad  plants  are  grown  in  your  community? 
2.  Which  ones  have  proved  most  satisfactory? 


CHAPTER   LV 
PLANTS   RELATED   TO   THE   ONION 

Chives,  garlic,  and  leeks  are  well-known  and  widely  used 
garden  plants  that  are  related  to  the  onion. 

Chives.  The  small  onion-like  plants  (Fig.  69)  called 
chives  are  used  for  flavoring  soups.  The  part  used  is  the 
hollow  leaves.  These  may  be  cut  off  as  desired,  for  new 
ones  will  quickly  grow  to  take  the  place  of  those  removed. 

This  plant  is  propagated  by  bulbs  which  form  in  clusters. 
The  clusters  are  divided  and  planted  early  in  the  spring, 
12  inches  apart  in  rows  18  inches  apart. 

If  leaves  are  desired  for  winter  use  transplant  a  few  plants 
to  indoor  seed  boxes,  to  the  cellar  or  to  a  cold  frame. 

Garlic.  Another  plant  used  chiefly  for  flavoring  foods  is 
garlic.  Some  people,  mostly  those  from  southern  Europe, 
serve  garlic  as  a  side  dish  like  other  vegetables.  It  has  a 
very  strong  flavor. 

Garlic  is  grown  by  planting  out  the  small  divisions  of 
which  the  bulb  is  composed.  These  divisions  are  called 
"cloves."  Each  clove,  as  well  as  the  entire  mass  of  the 
cloves  that  make  up  the  bulb,  is  surrounded  by  a  thin  mem- 
brane resembling  the  skin  of  an  onion. 

The  culture  required  for  garlic  is  the  same  as  for  the 
onion.  The  crop  is  harvested  in  the  fall  and  cured  for  win- 
ter use  by  braiding  the  tops  together  and  hanging  up  the 
bulbs  in  a  dry,  well-ventilated  location. 

Leeks.  The  leek  is  used  in  the  same  way  as  the  onion 
for    flavoring    soups    and    stews.     It    is    not    so   strong   in 

189 


190 


GARDEN    CROPS 


Fig.  69.     Chives.     The  grass-like  leaves 
are  hollow  and  grow  in  clusters. 


flavor,  but  it  is  coarser 
and  tougher  in  texture. 
It  requires  the  same 
general  treatment 
as  onions  (Chapter 
XXX). 

After  the  plants  have 
fully  developed,  earth 
is  drawn  up  around 
them  to  blanch  the 
stems.  Leeks  do  not 
form  a  bulb  like  the 
full-grown  onion  but  in- 
stead have  a  stem  that 
is  uniformly  thick 
throughout.  The  shape 
of  the  stem  resembles 
that  of  the  young  green 


onion  except  that  when  properly  grown  it  is  much  larger. 

Leeks  are  marketed  in  bunches  and  stored  for  winter  use 
like  celery. 

Varieties.    The  best  variety  of  leek  is  the  American  Flag. 

STUDY    OUTLINE 
i.  Name  three  garden  crops  that  are  related  to  the  onion. 

2.  What  are  the  cultural  requirements  of  chives,  leeks,  garlic? 

3.  For  what  purpose  is  each  of  the  above  crops  used? 


HOME    AND    COMMUNITY    WORK 

1.  Are  any  of  these  crops  grown  in  your  neighborhood? 

2.  If  so,  which  ones  have  proved  most  satisfactory? 

3.  How  is  each  of  them  prepared  for  the  table  by  your  neighbors? 


CHAPTER   LVI 

ROOT    CROPS    THAT    WITHSTAND    WINTER    FREEZING 

Parsnips,  salsify,  and  horse-radish  are  root  crops  that  with- 
stand freezing  as  well  as  summer  heat.  Most  people 
feel  that  these  roots  are  improved  by  freezing.  For  this 
reason  gardeners  usually  allow  them  to  remain  in  the  ground 
all  winter  and  dig  them  early  in  the  spring.  For  the  winter 
supply,  a  few  roots  may  be  stored  in  an  outdoor  storage  pit 
or  an  indoor  cellar. 

PARSNIPS  AND  SALSIFY 
Parsnips.     The  culture  for  parsnips  is  the  same  as  for 
carrots  and  has  already  been  discussed  on  page  128. 


Fig.  70.     Salsify  or  vegetable  oyster  plant.     This  plant  is  easily 
cultivated  and  very  hardy. 

Salsify.  The  salsify  (Fig.  70),  or  vegetable  oyster  as  it  is 
sometimes  called,  requires  the  same  general  treatment  as 
parsnips  and  carrots. 

191 


1 92  GARDEN    CROPS 

An  ounce  of  seed  will  be  sufficient  for  ioo  feet  of  row  space. 
Plant  seed  >2  to  i  inch  deep  in  rows  12  to  18  inches  apart. 
Thin  the  plants  to  stand  3  or  4  inches  apart.  The  growth 
of  this  crop  requires  120  to  180  days. 

Salsify  is  a  biennial,  and  for  this  reason  the  roots  should 
be  dug  before  the  second  season  to  prevent  the  plant  going 
to  seed.  Salsify  is  served  in  the  same  way  as  the  parsnip. 
The  plant  has  an  oyster  flavor  and  because  of  this  it  is 
known  as  "vegetable  oyster." 

Varieties.  The  varieties  of  salsify  that  are  most  generally 
cultivated  are: 

Sandwich  Island 
Long  White 
Mammoth 

HORSE  RADISH 

Soil  and  culture.  Horse-radish  requires  a  deep,  rich, 
well-drained  soil.  The  roots  are  planted  in  rows  3  feet 
apart  and  the  plants  12  to  18  inches  apart  in  the  row. 
Root  cuttings  are  used  for  planting.  These  cuttings  are 
obtained  by  taking  the  small  side  roots  from  the  main  roots 
as  the  gardener  does  when  preparing  the  crop  for  market. 
Select  roots  that  are  6  inches  long  and  li  to  >27  inch  in 
diameter.  If  kept  free  from  weeds  and  well  cultivated,  a 
dozen  hills  will  produce  enough  roots  for  the  ordinary  family. 

Horse-radish  is  usually  planted  at  one  end  of  the  garden 
near  other  perennials  such  as  asparagus  and  rhubarb. 

The  roots  are  prepared  for  use  by  peeling  and  grating. 
The  grated  root  stands  in  salt  and  vinegar  for  a  short  time 
and  then  is  ready  to  be  served  with  meats  as  a  condiment. 
Roots  intended  for  table  use  should  be  dug  in  the  winter  or 
early  spring  before  the  leaves  begin  to  grow. 


ROOT  CROPS  THAT  WITHSTAND  WINTER  FREEZING       193 

STUDY    OUTLINE 

i.  What  root  crops  withstand  winter  freezing  as  well  as  summer  heat? 

2.  What  culture  do  parsnips  require? 

3.  How  is  salsify  produced? 

4.  By  what  other  name  is  it  sometimes  called?     Why? 

5.  What  culture  is  required  for  horse-radish? 

6.  What  use  is  made  of  horse-radish  by  the  family? 


HOME    AND    COMMUNITY    WORK 

1.  Are  any  root  crops  that  withstand  winter  freezing,   as  well   as 
summer  heat,  grown  in  your  community?     If  so,  name  them. 

2.  Which  ones  have  proved  the  most  popular  in  your  neighborhood? 


13 


CHAPTER   LVII 
PERENNIAL   CROPS 

The  most  important  perennial  crops  grown  in  American 
gardens  are  asparagus,  rhubarb,  and  horse-radish.  Aspara- 
gus and  rhubarb  should  be  found  in  every  home  garden. 
It  requires  a  few  years  for  them  to  reach  their  best  develop- 
ment. They  are  not  difficult  to  raise  but  to  grow  them 
successfully  requires  patience.  Try  a  few  roots  of  asparagus 
and  rhubarb  at  one  end  of  the  garden.  The  results  will 
usually  justify  the  effort  and  the  small  expense  involved. 

Horse-radish  has  already  been  treated  under  Root  Crops 
that  Withstand  Winter  Freezing,  page  192. 

ASPARAGUS 

Soil.  Almost  any  well-drained  soil  that  has  been  fer- 
tilized with  good  stable  manure  is  suitable  for  asparagus 
and  will  yield  good  crops.  It  can  be  grown  from  seeds  but 
time  is  saved  by  purchasing  two-year-old  roots  from  a 
reliable  dealer.  These  roots  may  be  transplanted  to  the 
garden  late  in  the  fall  or  early  in  the  spring. 

After  choosing  the  location  for  your  asparagus,  remove 
5  inches  of  the  top  soil.  With  a  pick,  shovel,  or  spade,  dig 
up  the  subsoil  to  a  depth  of  14  or  18  inches.  Into  this  loose 
soil  mix  well-rotted  stable  manure.  Then  replace  the  top 
soil,  thoroughly  mixing  fertilizer  with  it. 

Planting  and  cultivation.  In  a  large  garden  where  horse- 
drawn  implements  are  to  be  used,  plant  the  roots  in  rows  4 
feet  apart  and  15  inches  apart  in  the  row. 

194 


PERENNIAL    CROPS 


195 


If  your  garden  is  less  than  H  of  an  acre,  plant  the  roots 
in  beds  at  one  end  of  the  garden.  Place  them  1 2  to  1 5  inches 
apart  in  rows  1 2  inches  apart  and  cultivate  by  hand.  Plant 
the  root  crowns  4  or  5  inches  deep.  In  the  North  mulch 
during  cold  weather  with  3  inches  of  stable  manure.  Re- 
move this  mulch  gradually  so  that  as  the  weather  grows 
warmer  in  the  spring,  the 
ground  may  be  warmed  by 
the  sun's  heat. 

Cutting.  No  shoots  should 
be  cut  the  first  year  and  only 
a  few  the  second.  But  if  the 
bed  is  kept  well  fertilized 
after  the  second  year,  it  will 
be  permanent  and  will  fur- 
nish a  good  supply  of  tender 
shoots  each  season. 

During  the  cutting  season 
be  sure  to  keep  all  shoots 
removed,  as  the  roots  will 
cease  producing  when  shoots 
are  permitted  to  mature. 
After  the  season  for  cutting 
is  over,  the  shoots  should  be 
permitted  to  grow  and  form 
large  tops.  In  the  late  fall 
remove  all  tops  and  give  the  bed  another  supply  of  rich 
stable  manure. 

RHUBARB 

Soil  and  climate.     All  that  has  been  said  about  soil  and 
fertilizers  required  for  asparagus  applies  equally  to  rhubarb. 


Fig.  71.     Asparagus  bunched  for 

market.     Asparagus  is  hardy, 

early,  and  a  sure  crop. 


196 


GARDEN    CROPS 


It  does  best  in  gardens  where  it  is  cool,  and  is  perfectly 
hardy  in  localities  where  the  climate  is  severe. 

Planting  and  cultivation.     A  dozen  hills  planted  at   one 
end  of  the  garden  will  be  sufficient  for  an  ordinary  family. 

Time  is  saved  by  plant- 
ing pieces  of  roots  from 
an  old  bed  rather  than 
by  using  seed.  These 
pieces  or  parts  of  roots 
from  old  hills  of  rhubarb 
should  be  planted  4  feet 
apart  in  rows  3  feet 
apart.  Be  careful  to 
see  that  each  root  has 
at  least  one  good  bud. 
The  plants  succeed  best 
if  set  out  in  the  fall. 

The  thick  leaf  stems 
are  used  after  the  sec- 
ond year.  The  chief  use 
of  rhubarb  as  a  food 
is  for  pies  and  sauces. 

The  seed  stalks  should 
be  kept  cut  in  order 
that  young  shoots  may 
continue  to  come  up 
and  be  available  for  a 
longer  period. 


Fig.  72.     A  bunch  of  rhubarb  stalks. 

Mulch  this  plant  for  winter  as  you  do  asparagus 


from 


Fresh    young    stalks    can    be    obtained    in   winter 
rhubarb  roots  that  have  been  transplanted  to  a  cold  frame 


PERENNIAL    CROPS  197 

or  indoor  cellar  and  kept  moist  and  warm.  This  process, 
known  as  forcing  the  roots,  produces  tender  fine-flavored 
stalks.  Two  or  three  year  old  plants  should  be  used  for 
forcing.  No  stalks  should  be  pulled  from  these  roots 
during  the  summer. 

STUDY    OUTLINE 

1.  Name  three  popular  perennial  crops  that  may  be  found  in  American 
gardens. 

2.  Describe  the  culture  required  for  asparagus. 

3.  Describe  the  culture  of  rhubarb. 


HOME    AND    COMMUNITY    WORK 

Visit  four  gardens  in  the  neighborhood  and  be  prepared  to  answer  the 
following  questions : 

1.  How  long  have  the  rhubarb  and  asparagus  beds  been  producing? 

2.  How  are  they  protected  over  winter? 

3.  What  soils  produce  the  best  asparagus  or  rhubarb? 

4.  What  fertilizers  are  used  to  keep  the  soil  in  the  beds  rich? 


CHAPTER   LVIII 

SAVING  SEED   FOR  PLANTING 

Each  year  it  is  becoming  more  and  more  difficult  to  secure 
good  garden  seed.  In  view  of  this  fact,  the  gardener 
should  produce  at  least  a  part  of  his  own  seed.  In  planning 
the  garden,  space  can  be  saved  for  the  growing  of  special 
seed  plants.  If  preferred,  the  healthiest  and  best  developed 
plants  in  the  regular  garden  space  may  be  permitted  to  go 
to  seed. 

If  different  varieties  of  a  crop,  which  mature  at  the  same 
time,  are  planted  in  the  same  part  of  the  garden  they  are 
liable  to  become  mixed.  Vine  crops  and  sweet  corn  are 
good  examples  of  such  crops.  This  mixing  causes  the  seed 
to  become  impure  and  is  the  result  of  the  pollen  grains  from 
the  tassels  (stamens)  of  one  variety  falling  upon  the  silk 
(pistils)  of  another  variety  that  is  at  about  the  same  stage 
of  maturity.  No  mixed  or  impure  seed  should  be  saved 
for  planting. 

Garden  crops  may  be  divided  into  three  groups :  (i)  annu- 
als; (2)  biennials;  (3)  perennials. 

Annuals.  The  annuals  live  for  one  year  and  ripen  their 
seed.  Peas,  beans,  spinach,  corn,  squash,  cucumbers, 
tomatoes,  lettuce,  and  radishes  are  good  examples  of  this 
group. 

Biennials.  The  biennials  ripen  their  seeds  the  second 
year  and  then  die.  This  group  includes  carrots,  beets,  cab- 
bages, onions,  parsnips,  and  turnips.  As  the  biennials  do  not 
mature  the  first  year,  that  is,  flower  and  produce  seed,  it 

198 


SAVING  SEED  FOR  PLANTING  199 

follows  that  they  must  be  allowed  to  stay  in  the  garden  two 
years.  However,  roots  or  plants  from  biennials  that  have 
been  stored  may  be  taken  out  of  storage  and  planted  when 
the  soil  has  become  warm,  and  they  will  grow,  mature,  and 
produce  seed  the  same  year. 

Perennials.  The  tops  of  perennials  usually  die  in  winter, 
but  the  roots  or  root  stalks  live  on  year  after  year.  While 
some  of  the  perennials  may  be  grown  from  seed,  it  is  better 
to  propagate  from  "piece"  roots.  These  may  be  pur- 
chased or  grown  in  the  garden.  By  using  roots  time  is 
gained  and  the  plants  come  true  to  variety.  This  is  true, 
as  we  have  already  learned,  of  the  most  important  garden 
perennials,  rhubarb,  asparagus,  and  horse-radish. 

Harvesting  and  cleaning  seed.  Gather  seeds  that  are 
ripe  before  there  is  danger  of  frost.  They  should  be  gath- 
ered from  plants  that  are  healthy,  vigorous,  true  to  type, 
and  have  produced  satisfactorily.  Spread  the  seeds  out  to 
dry  in  a  well-ventilated,  sheltered  place. 

Cucumbers,  melons,  tomatoes,  and  similar  plants  should 
be  gathered  before  there  is  danger  from  frost.  The  seeds 
should  be  removed  and  washed  free  from  the  pulp  matter. 
They  should  then  be  dried  in  a  sheltered  place.  Seeds  such 
as  lettuce  and  radish  may  be  whipped  out  on  a  piece  of 
cloth  or  paper,  or  rolled  out  by  hand. 

Protecting  the  seed.  After  the  plants  have  been  whipped 
to  remove  the  seeds  the  chaff  can  be  taken  out  by  the  wind. 
This  is  done  by  pouring  them  from  one  receptacle  into 
another  on  a  windy  day.  This  process  will  also  remove 
many  small  and  inferior  seeds. 

Before  storing,  seeds  should  be  carefully  selected  and  all 
inferior  specimens  removed.     Proper  storing  and  handling 


200  GARDEN  CROPS 

has  much  to  do  with  the  vitality  of  seeds.  All  seed  saved 
should  be  correctly  labeled  and  put  in  containers  that  will 
protect  them  from  mice  or  other  destructive  agents. 

Potatoes  that  are  to  be  used  for  seed  should  be  placed  in 
the  cellar  in  a  well-ventilated  receptacle.  Read  carefully 
the  instructions  for  storing  potatoes  and  also  for  storing 
other  garden  crops  (Chapters  LXXV-LXXIX). 

Well-matured  ears  of  seed  corn  can  be  tied  together  and 
suspended  from  nails  or  hooks  in  a  well-ventilated  dry 
location. 

STUDY    OUTLINE 

i .  Into  what  three  groups  are  garden  crops  divided? 

2.  What  are  annuals?     Name  five. 

3.  What  are  biennials?     Name  five. 

4.  What  are  perennials?     Name  three. 

5.  Should  the  gardener  save  part  or  all  of  his  seed?  If  so  from  what 
kind  of  plants  should  it  be  saved? 

HOME    AND    COMMUNITY    WORK 

1 .  Name  six  garden  crops  that  are  grown  in  the  home  gardens  of  your 
neighborhood. 

2.  Classify  these  as  annuals,  biennials,  and  perennials. 

3.  What  methods,  if  any,  are  used  in  your  community  for  producing 
and  saving  seed  to  plant  in  the  home  gardens? 


CHAPTER   LIX 
HARVESTING  VEGETABLE  CROPS 

The  importance  of  properly  harvesting  garden  crops  can- 
not be  overestimated.  There  is  great  loss  each  year  in  the 
United  States  because  of  neglect  in  harvesting  and  the  use 
of  wrong  methods. 

*  Harvesting  stem  crops.  Asparagus  is  cut  close  to  the 
ground  when  the  shoots  are  4  to  6  inches  tall.  The  shoots  are 
then  sorted  and  bundled  and  the  butts  cut  off  even. 

Rhubarb  should  be  used  while  young.  Cut  the  stems 
close  to  the  ground  but  do  not  disturb  the  crowns.  By 
keeping  the  seed  stalks  cut  back  more  stems  will  grow. 

Celery  should  be  cut  just  beneath  the  crown  when  it  is 
sufficiently  developed. 

Early  potatoes  should  be  harvested  as  soon  as  they  are 
large  enough  for  the  table,  and  late  ones  as  soon  as  the  vines 
have  died. 

Early  sweet  potatoes  are  dug  as  soon  as  they  are  large 
enough  to  use  as  food,  but  late  ones  should  be  left  in  the 
ground  as  late  as  possible  before  killing  frosts. 

Leaf  crops.  Lettuce,  spinach,  mustard,  and  young  kale 
are  all  cut  off  just  beneath  the  crowns.  This  should  be 
done  in  the  morning  when  the  leaves  are  filled  with  moisture. 
The  outer  leaves  of  Swiss  chard  and  fall  kale  are  cut  from 
the  plants  when  they  are  5  to  10  inches  long.  This  should 
also  be  done  in  the  morning.  Cabbages  and  cauliflower 
should  be  used_ while  young.     They  begin  to  get  tough  after 


202  GARDEN    CROPS 

reaching  about  three  fourths  of  their  mature  size.  Cut  off 
the  heads  just  beneath  the  crowns. 

Root  crops.  We  should  begin  using  radishes,  carrots, 
turnips,  and  beets  when  they  have  reached  about  half  their 
full  development.  Radishes  grow  pithy  and  hot  soon  after 
reaching  maturity.  Root  crops  mature  irregularly.  Pull 
the  largest  vegetables  first. 

Vine  crops.  String  beans  should  be  picked  when  the 
pods  are  good  sized,  snap  readily,  and  have  soft  pliable 
tips.  Do  not  let  the  pods  get  tough  and  stringy  nor  wait 
until  the  seeds  are  well  formed.  The  pods  of  shell  beans 
should  be  left  on  the  vines  until  they  mature  but  not  until 
they  dry  out  and  crack  open.  When  lima  beans  are  to  be 
used  green,  they  should  be  picked  when  the  beans  are  full 
grown  in  the  pods  but  before  they  become  dry  and  hard. 

Peas  should  be  picked  as  soon  as  they  are  three-fourths 
their  full  size  in  the  pod.  They  toughen  soon  after  reaching 
maturity. 

Cucumbers  should  be  picked  before  the  seeds  begin  to 
develop.  After  the  seeds  are  formed  production  decreases. 
When  cucumbers  are  to  be  sold  or  used  for  pickles  they 
should  be  picked  as  soon  as  they  reach  the  desired  size. 

Summer  squashes  are  picked  as  soon  as  large  enough  and 
while  the  skin  will  give  to  the  press  of  the  finger.  Winter 
squashes  may  be  left  until  the  other  harvesting  is  done.  A 
slight  frost  will  not  harm  them  but  they  should  be  gathered 
before  a  hard  freeze. 

Melons  are  generally  ready  when  they  crack  around  the 
stem.  Watermelons  are  usually  ripe  when  the  tendril  near 
the  stem  is  dry.  A  peculiar  mellow  response,  or  a  "dead" 
sound  when  thumped,  also  indicates  a  ripe  watermelon. 


HARVESTING    VEGETABLE    CROPS 


203 


Tomatoes  should  be  gathered  as  fast  as  they  ripen.  If  a 
frost  threatens,  pick  green  tomatoes,  wrap  each  one  in 
paper  separately,  and  put  them  in  a  dry  place.  Unwrap  a 
few  at  a  time  and  place  them  in  the  sun  to  ripen.     If  pre- 


Fig.   73.     Harvest  day  at  a  school  for  the  blind,   Cleveland.     These 

young  pupils,  encouraged  and  directed  by  their  instructors, 

in  spite  of  their  handicap  have  proved  to 

be  successful  gardeners. 

ferred  pull  up  the  vines  and  put  them  in  a  dry  place  in 
order  that  the  tomatoes  may  ripen. 

Corn.     When  corn  is  in  the  "milk"  it  is  ready  for  use. 
When  sweet  corn  is  ready  for  the  table  a  few  of  the  silks 


204  GARDEN    CROPS 

begin  turning  brown.  Use  sweet  corn  as  soon  as  pulled. 
Corn  pulled  and  kept  over  night  loses  at  least  50  per  cent  of 
its  normal  quality. 

Peppers.  Pick  sweet  peppers  while  green,  and  hot  pep- 
pers after  the  skins  have  turned  red.  The  stem  should 
always  be  left  attached. 

Onions.  Onions  are  ripe  and  ready  to  be  harvested  when 
the  tops  have  fallen  and  the  outer  skins  are  dry. 

STUDY    OUTLINE 

1.  Name  five  general  classes  of  crops. 

2.  How  or  when  are  stem  crops  harvested? 

3.  How  or  when  are  leaf  crops  harvested? 

4.  How  or  when  are  root  crops  harvested? 

5.  How  or  when  are  vine  crops  harvested? 

6.  How  or  when  is  corn  harvested? 

7.  How  or  when  are  peppers  harvested? 

8.  When  are  onions  ripe? 

HOME    AND    COMMUNITY    WORK 

Visit  the  homes  of  five  gardeners  and  learn  the  answers  to  the  following: 

1.  How  or  when  are  stem  crops  harvested? 

2.  How  or  when  are  leaf  crops  harvested? 

3.  How  or  when  are  root  crops  harvested? 

4.  How  or  when  are  vine  crops  harvested? 

5.  How  or  when  are  corn,  peppers,  and  onions  harvested? 


CHAPTER    LX 
MARKETING   VEGETABLE   CROPS 

Each  year  our  gardeners  experience  great  loss  from  im- 
proper marketing.  Far  too  little  attention  has  been  given  to 
this  important  part  of  the  gardener's  work.  The  gardeners 
of  the  future  must  profit  by  the  mistakes  that  have  been 
made  in  the  past.  More  attention  must  be  given  to  the 
preparation  for  market,  the  display  of  vegetables,  and  the 
different  types  of  marketing.  Special  efforts  should  be  made 
by  gardeners  to  work  out  plans  for  cooperative  marketing. 

Preparing  vegetables  for  market.  Vegetables  should  not 
be  marketed  directly  from  the  garden.     They  should  receive 


Fig.  74.     -1  home  market  on  the  highway.     A  passer-by  has  stopped 
to  purchase  some  vegetables  from  the  young  gardeners. 

205 


206 


GARDEN   CROPS 


such  special  treatment  as  washing,  trimming,  grading,  sort- 
ing, and  must  be  free  from  defects.     Care  should  be  taken 


Fig.  75.     A  co-operative  school  market,  Richmond,  Indiana.     Here 
young  gardeners  arc  being  taught  that  quality  and  suitable  ar- 
rangement are  important  factors  in  selling  their  products. 

to  have  them  always  in  the  very  best  state  when  placed 
upon  the  market. 

Vegetables  to  be  attractive  must  not  only  be  clean  but 
they  must  be  also  fresh  and  crisp.  When  sorting  and 
grading  for  the  market  give  attention  to  quality  as  well  as 
to  form  and  size.  Grade  them  so  that  the  selling  price 
asked  will  correspond  with  the  grades  established. 

Types  of  marketing.  There  are  several  established 
types  of  marketing  vegetables  and  small  fruits.  Among 
those  of  special  interest  to  young  gardeners  are  community, 
individual  (Fig.  74),  and  cooperative  marketing. 


MARKETING    VEGETABLE    CROPS 


207 


The  community  type  can  be  located  at  the  school,  in  some 
attractive   central   location,    or  in   the   municipal   market. 

Some  individual  types  that  may  be  mentioned  are 
the  market  at  home,  selling  vegetables  to  neighbors  from 
the  wagon,  or  shipping  by  parcel  post. 

There  are  cooperative  types  which  provide  for  cooperation 
with  others  who  sell  at  central  locations  in  the  city,  county, 
or  special  markets  (Figs.  75  and  76). 

How  to  display  vegetables.  Arrange  the  display  so  that 
it  will  present  a  neat  appearance.  Place  vegetables  of  simi- 
lar type  together.     For   example,    the   root   or  vine  crops 


Fig.  76.      The  Richmond  school  market,  with  the  exhibits  all  in  place, 
is  here  seen  open  and  ready  for  business. 

should  be  grouped  in  a  regular  section  in  the  market  and 
not  be  scattered  throughout  the  entire  market  space.     For 


208  GARDEN  CROPS 

a  brief  classification  of  crops  into  kinds  and  types  see 
Chapter  LIX. 

Use  substantial  yet  inexpensive  containers.  The  exhibit 
will  make  a  better  appearance  if  these  are  as  nearly  uniform 
in  size  as  your  various  crops  will  permit. 

Stem  crops.  Asparagus  and  rhubarb  are  sold  in  bunches 
while  the  stems  are  young  and  tender.  The  same  plan  is 
usually  followed  with  celery.  Early  potatoes  are  sold  by 
measure  or  weight  as  soon  as  they  become  large  enough. 
They  should  be  graded  according  to  size. 

Leaf  crops.  The  leaf  crops  should  be  picked  early  in  the 
morning  while  crisp.  They  should  be  washed  in  cold  water, 
bunched,  and  kept  in  a  cool  place  until  ready  to  display  in 
the  market. 

Root  crops.  Wash  all  root  crops  in  cold  water  imme- 
diately after  pulling.  Arrange  in  bunches  and  wash  again- 
The  bunches  will  vary  in  size  according  to  the  demand- 
Green  onions  are  skinned  and  the  roots  cut  off.  Leeks  are 
skinned  but  the  roots  are  not  removed.  Custom  varies  in 
different  localities.  In  some  markets  it  is  not  customary  to 
cut  off  the  tops  of  root  crops. 

Vine  crops.  Pick  all  crops  carefully  and  place  in  clean  con- 
tainers. Wipe  tomatoes  with  a  damp  cloth,  placing  those 
of  the  same  size,  shape,  and  color  in  the  same  container. 
Peas  and  early  beans  are  generally  sold  in  the  pod,  while 
lima  beans  are  usually  hulled  and  sold  by  the  quart. 
Cucumbers  are  sold  by  the  measure  or  the  dozen.  Melons, 
squashes,  and  pumpkins  are  sold  individually  or  by  the 
dozen. 

Sweet  corn.  This  crop  is  marketed  with  husks  on  and 
sold  almost  universally  by  the  dozen. 


MARKETING   VEGETABLE   CROPS  209 

STUDY    OUTLINE 

1.  What  things  should  be  observed  in  preparing  crops  for  market? 

2.  How  should  the  vegetable  display  be  arranged? 

3.  Name  three  different  ways  of  marketing  crops. 

4.  Describe  each. 

5.  How  are  vegetables  under  each  of  the  five  classes  of  crops  marketed? 


HOME    AND    COMMUNITY    WORK 

Visit  a  vegetable  market  in  your  neighborhood  and  prepare  answers 
to  the  following: 

1.  How  were  the  vegetables  arranged  in  the  market? 

2.  What  ways  of  marketing  are  followed  in  your  locality? 

3.  In  your  opinion  what  improvements  could  be  made  in  the  market- 
ing methods  of  your  community? 


14 


CHAPTER    LXI 
SMALL   FRUITS 

The  fruits  considered  in  this  chapter  include  the  straw- 
berry, blackberry,  raspberry,  currant,  and  gooseberry. 

Soil  and  soil  conditions.  Small  fruits  do  best  when 
planted  where  other  garden  crops  have  already  been  grown 
rather  than  in  new  soil  just  broken  out  of  sod.  Corn  or  pota- 
toes grown  on  soil  that  has  been  well  treated  with  stable 
fertilizer  before  planting  make  good  crops  to  precede  small 
fruits.  Soil  in  which  small  fruits  are  planted  should  be 
covered  with  good  stable  manure.  It  should  be  free  from 
weeds  and  grasses,  must  contain  no  insect  larvae  that  would 
injure  the  crops,  and  should  be  in  a  high  state  of  cultivation. 
Many  gardeners  make  a  mistake  in  not  giving  proper 
preparation  to  soil  intended  for  small  fruits. 

Mulching.  When  small  fruits  are  planted  in  the  fall  in 
regions  where  the  ground  freezes  to  a  considerable  depth 
during  the  winter,  the  newly  set  plants  should  be  well 
mulched  to  prevent  winter  killing.  Cornstalks,  leaves,  and 
straw  are  materials  that  are  most  frequently  used  for 
mulching.  Perhaps  on  the  whole  it  will  be  safer  to  set  out 
the  plants  in  the  spring,  especially  for  the  inexperienced 
gardener. 

Planting  and  cultivation.  Small  fruits  should  be  planted 
in  rows  so  that  they  can  be  more  successfully  cultivated. 
Care  should  be  taken  to  avoid  overcrowding  plants  in  the 
rows.  Fruit  of  proper  size  and  quality  cannot  be  produced 
unless  the  plants  have  sufficient  food,   air,   and  sunshine. 

210 


SMALL   FRUITS  211 

Before  setting  out  plants  be  sure  that  all  broken  or 
decayed  roots,  branches,  or  leaves  have  been  removed. 
Plants  that  are  diseased  or  infested  with  injurious  insects 
should  be  destroyed. 

Small  fruits  should  be  cultivated  soon  after  planting  and 
at  frequent  intervals  during  the  following  summer  and  fall. 


STUDY    OUTLINE 

1.  What  crops  are  good  to  precede  small  fruits? 

2.  What  four  points  should  receive  consideration  in  the  preparation 
of  soil  for  small  fruits? 

3.  What  materials  are  commonly  used  for  mulching  small-fruit  crops 
during  the  cold  season? 

4.  Why  should  overcrowding  the  plants  in  the  rows  be  avoided? 

HOME    AND    COMMUNITY    WORK 

1.  What  small-fruit  crops  are  grown  in  your  neighborhood? 

2.  What  plans  are  used  to  protect  the  plants  over  winter? 


CHAPTER    LXII 
STRAWBERRIES 

Planting  and  cultivation.  Strawberries  (Fig.  77)  are 
grown  in  many  different  kinds  of  soil  but  do  best  in  a  moist, 
sandy  loam.  They  may  be  planted  in  the  early  spring  or 
late  summer. 

The  plants  should  be  set  15  to  24  inches  apart  in  rows  4  to 
5  feet  apart.  Be  sure  to  pack  the  soil  about  the  roots,  and 
be  very  careful  not  to  get  any  of  it  in  the  crown.  When 
plants  are  set  out  in  the  spring  the  blossoms  are  usually 
removed  to  encourage  plant  growth.  Runners  are  permitted 
to  root  early  in  the  season  and  to  continue  until  a  row 
width  of  15  to  18  inches  is  attained.  Runners  formed  be- 
yond this  distance  and  late  in  the  season  are  usually  cut 
off.  The  plants  should  not  be  permitted  to  fruit  the 
first  year. 

Strawberries  should  have  a  sunny  situation  in  the 
garden  and  should  be  cultivated  frequently  until  blos- 
soming time.  After  that  is  over,  cultivation  should  be 
discontinued.  Some  successful  growers  cover  the  ground 
with  straw  until  after  the  fruit  is  harvested.  This  tends 
to  keep  the  fruit  clean  and  serves  as  a  mulch. 

During  the  fall  cover  the  plants  with  straw  containing 
some  stable  manure.  When  spring  comes  rake  the  coarse 
material  between  the  rows  and  spade  in  all  manure  and  fine 
material. 

Use  Bordeaux  mixture  to  prevent  plant  diseases.  Direc- 
tions for  preparing  it  will  be  found  on  page  136. 


STRAWBERRIES 


213 


Perfect  and  imperfect  flowers.     Some  plants  bear  what 
are  called  perfect  flowers,  that  is,  blossoms  possessing  both 


Fig.  77.     A  flourishing  strawberry  patch  and  a  sample  of  the  fruit 
being  marketed  from  it. 

stamens  and  pistils.  Such  flowers  are  said  to  have  both 
male  and  female  organs,  and  the  plants  that  bear  them  are 
self -fertilizing.  Other  plants  bear  only  imperfect  flowers, 
those  that  have  pistils,  female  organs,  but  no  stamens, 
and  are  known  as  pistillate.  Pistillate  plants  are  unpro- 
ductive when  planted  alone.  Therefore,  where  there  are 
pistillate  plants  in  the  patch,  those  bearing  perfect  flowers 
that  bloom  at  the  same  time  must  also  be  grown  every  6 
to  8  feet  in  the  row  in  order  to  pollenize  the  imperfect  or 
pistillate  flowers  so  that  they  will  produce  fruit. 


214 


GARDEN    CROPS 


Varieties.     Strawberries  that  are  popular  throughout  a 


large  part  of  the  country  are 


STANDARD 
(PERFECT  FLOWERS) 

Dr.  Burrill 
Lady  Thompson 
Sentor  Dunlap 
Tennessee 


standard 
(imperfect  flowers) 

Crescent 
Warfield 


EVERBEARING 

(PERFECT  flowers) 

Progressive 
Superb 


STUDY    OUTLINE 

i.  What  kind  of  soil  is  most  suitable  for  growing  strawberries? 

2.  Describe  the  methods  used  in  planting  and  caring  for  this  crop. 

3.  Why  are  the  flowers  of  some  strawberry  plants  called  "perfect" 
and  others  "imperfect"? 

4.  Name  five  varieties  of  strawberries.     Which,  if  any,  have  imperfect 
flowers? 

HOME    AND    COMMUNITY    WORK 

1.  What  varieties  of  strawberries  have  proved  most  satisfactory  in 
your  community? 


CHAPTER   LXIII 
BLACKBERRIES   AND   RASPBERRIES 

BLACKBERRIES 

Soil  and  climate.  The  blackberry  will  thrive  in  a  lighter 
and  drier  soil  than  the  strawberry,  but  frequent  rains  during 
the  summer  will  produce  a  better  crop  of  berries. 

Planting  and  care.  This  crop  may  be  planted  early  in  the 
spring  or  in  the  fall.  New  plants,  known  as  suckers,  are 
procured  from  newly  established  fields  or  from  root  cuttings. 
Plants  should  be  set  4  feet  apart  in  rows  5  to  6  feet  apart. 
Plant  them  3  or  4  inches  deep  and  cut  back  the  tops  to 
from  3  to  5  inches  in  length.  Blackberries  will  grow  in 
partially  shaded  locations. 

When  the  bushes  get  well  established  cut  out  all  old  wood 
late  in  the  fall  or  before  the  new  growth  begins  in  the  spring. 
Do  not  permit  canes  to  grow  more  than  4  to  5  feet  high. 
Remove  all  diseased  canes  as  soon  as  noticed. 

Mulching  as  suggested  for  strawberries  should  prove 
beneficial. 

Varieties.  Good  varieties  of  blackberries  that  have 
been  successfully  grown  are: 

EARLY  LATE 

Early  King  Success 

Eldorado  Taylor 

RASPBERRIES 

There  are  three  types  of  raspberries — the  red,  black,  and 
purple.     Some  gardeners  also  recognize  a  yellow  type. 

215 


216  GARDEN    CROPS 

Red.  The  red  varieties  will  flourish  in  more  kinds  of  soil 
than  the  black.  Raspberries  do  best  in  rich,  well-drained 
clay  loam.  Pruning  is  commonly  limited  to  cutting  back  the 
canes  to  one-third  of  their  growth  and  should  be  done  in 
spring  before  the  leaves  start.     Remove  all  old  canes. 

Black.  In  many  sections  black  raspberries  are  less  pop- 
ular than  red  for  eating  fresh,  but  are  more  generally  used 
for  canning  or  drying.  The  plants  are  obtained  from  rooted 
tips.  These  should  be  planted  like  the  red  kinds.  When 
the  canes  reach  a  height  of  18  to  24  inches  they  should  be 
trimmed  back.  Tips  not  desired  for  sale  or  new  plantings 
should  not  be  allowed  to  root.  Early  in  the  spring  remove 
all  old  canes  and  cut  back  branches  to   15  inches. 

Purple.  The  purple  varieties  have  never  become  so  well 
known  and  are  not  so  highly  appreciated  as  the  other  kinds. 
The  care  of  these  is  the  same  as  for  black  raspberries. 

Varieties.  Some  good  varieties  that  are  commonly 
grown  of  each  type  of  raspberry  are : 

RED  BLACK  PURPLE  YELLOW 

Cuthbert  Ohio  Shaffer  Golden  Queen 

King  Gregg  Columbian 

Miller  Cumberland 

Thompson  Kansas 

STUDY    OUTLINE 

1.  Describe  the  method  of  planting  and  cultivating  blackberries. 

2.  Name  two  early  and  two  late  varieties. 

3.  Describe  the  method  of  planting  and  cultivating  raspberries. 

4.  Name  two  varieties  of  each  raspberry  type. 

HOME    AND    COMMUNITY    WORK 

1.  What  varieties  of  blackberries  and  raspberries  have  proved  most 
satisfactory  in  your  community? 


CHAPTER   LXIV 
CURRANTS   AND    GOOSEBERRIES 

Soil  and  cultivation.  Currants  and  gooseberries  require 
about  the  same  kind  of  soil  and  treatment  for  successful 
growth.  These  crops  do  best  in  a  moist,  clayey  or  sandy 
loam.  Almost  any  back  yard  or  garden  will  afford  a  suit- 
able location.  They  are  cool-climate  plants  and  if  planted 
south  of  the  Ohio  River  it  will  be  best  to  provide  a  partial 
shade. 

Plants  should  be  set  3  feet  apart  in  rows  5  or  6  feet  apart. 
While  these  bush  fruits  require  little  work,  careful  cultiva- 
tion will  increase  the  yield  and  improve  the  quality  of 
the  fruit.  A  liberal  supply  of  stable  manure  should  be 
used  to  secure  the  best  results. 

Plants  two  years  old,  having  good  roots  grown  from 
cuttings,  should  be  used.  It  is  customary  to  set  them  out 
in  the  fall,  but  they  can  be  successfully  transplanted  in  the 
spring. 

Pruning.  Prune  in  the  fall  or  early  in  the  spring.  Re- 
move weak  branches  and  all  those  over  three  years  old. 
The  best  fruit  is  produced  on  one-year-old  shoots.  From 
3  to  5  stems  to  the  bush  is  advisable.  The  stems  should 
be  kept  renewed  by  cutting  back. 

Mulching.  When  the  season  becomes  hot  and  dry  a 
mulch  of  straw  and  manure  should  be  used  between  the 
plants  and  rows. 

Insects.  Spraying  with  Paris  green  or  arsenate  of  lead 
will  destroy  the  currant  worm. 

217 


218  GARDEN   CROPS 

Varieties.     The    most    widely    known    varieties    of    the 
different  kinds  of  currants  and  gooseberries  are: 

RED  CURRANTS  WHITE  CURRANTS  BLACK  CURRANTS 

Cherry  White  Grape  Black 

Prince  Albert  White  Dutch  Naples 

Victoria 
Red  Dutch 

AMERICAN  GOOSEBERRIES  ENGLISH  GOOSEBERRIES 

Houghton  Industry 

Downing  Triumph 

STUDY    OUTLINE 
i.  What  methods  are  used  for  the  planting  and  cultivation  of  the 
currant  and  gooseberry? 

2.  How  can  the  currant  worm  be  destroyed? 

3.  Name  two  varieties  of  each  of  the  red,  white,  and  black  kinds  of 
currants. 

4.  Name  two  varieties  of  each  of  the  American  and  English  type  of 
gooseberries. 

HOME    AND    COMMUNITY    WORK 

1.  What  varieties  of  currants  and  gooseberries  are  most  generally 
grown  in  your  neighborhood? 

2.  Which  ones  are  most  satisfactory? 


CHAPTER   LXV 
GRAPES 

Propagating  grape  vines.  Grape  vines  may  be  propa- 
gated from  seed,  from  cuttings,  or  by  layering  or  grafting. 
The  first  method  is  used  only  when  new  varieties  are  to  be 
grown.  Seedlings,  vines  produced  from  seeds,  differ  so 
widely  that  they  are  seldom  used  even  for  grafting. 

Cuttings  for  propagating  may  be  prepared  at  any  time 
after  the  vines  have  become  dormant. 

All  varieties  of  grapes  may  be  propagated  by  layers. 
When  this  method  is  used  select  canes  of  the  last  season's 
growth,  preferably  those  that  start  near  the  base  of  the  vine. 

There  are  two  advantages  in  grafting:  (i)  Changing  poor 
varieties  to  valuable  ones;  (2)  protecting  non-resistant 
varieties  from  disease  by  grafting  them  upon  strong  stocks. 

Grapes  are  grown  in  all  parts  of  the  world.  This  crop 
can  be  produced  on  almost  any  kind  of  soil  providing  it  is 
given  a  reasonable  amount  of  cultivation  and  fertilizing. 

Pruning  grape  vines.  The  pruning  of  grape  vines  re- 
quires careful  study  if  the  best  results  are  to  be  attained. 
Grapes  are  borne  on  new  wood  and  these  new  shoots  spring 
from  buds  on  wood  of  the  previous  year's  growth. 

Grape  vines  should  be  trimmed  early  in  the  spring 
before  the  sap  begins  to  run.  The  first  spring  after  a 
new  vine  has  grown  through  one  season,  cut  away  all 
but  one  stem  and  cut  this  one  stem  back  so  as  to  leave 
only  one  or  two  buds.  The  second  spring  cut  away  all  but 
two  branches  of  the  main  stem  and  if  these  are  long  cut 

219 


220  GARDEN   CROPvS 

them  back;  laterals  will  grow  out  and  bear  fruit  from  these 
two  branches.  The  third  spring  cut  away  all  but  four  of 
the  shoots  nearest  the  main  stem  and  cut  these  back  so 
that  they  will  not  have  more  than  ten  buds.  To  produce 
the  best  results  continue  to  thin  out  the  vines  each  year. 

Vines  should  be  kept  off  the  ground  by  means  of  a  sup- 
port. For  details  on  training  grape  vines  as  well  as  pruning 
and  propagating  consult  Farmers'  Bulletin  471. 

Diseases.  To  prevent  plant  diseases  among  grape  vines 
clean  up  and  burn  all  the  dead  branches  and  leaves  early 
in  the  spring.  After  the  buds  begin  to  swell  spray  with 
Bordeaux  mixture  (Chapter  XXXVII)  every  ten  days 
until  the  fruit  is  set.  If  leaf  blight  develops  spray  every 
two  weeks  after  the  crop  is  harvested. 

Varieties:  Many  different  varieties  of  grapes  have  been 
grown  in  different  shades  of  greenish  white,  red  and  purple. 
Among  some  of  the  more  important  are: 

BLACK 

Champion 
Concord 
Moore's  Early 
Worden 


1.  How  are  grape  vines  propagated? 

2.  What  are  two  advantages  of  propagating  them  by  grafting? 

3.  Describe  pruning  a  grape  vine  from  the  first  to  the  third  year. 

4.  How  should  the  vines  be  trained?     How  are  diseases  prevented? 

5.  Name  four  varieties  of  grapes. 

HOME    AND    COMMUNITY    WORK 

i.  What   varieties  of  grapes  grown   in  your  community  are   most 
satisfactory? 


RED    OR    AMBER 

WHITE 

Agawam 

Diamond 

Catawba 

Niagara 

Delaware 

Winchell 

Wyoming 

STUDY    OUTLINE 

CHAPTER   LXVI 
HARVESTING   AND   MARKETING    SMALL   FRUITS 

When  selecting  varieties  of  small  fruits  for  planting, 
gardeners  should  consider  market  demands,  the  character 
of  the  fruit  as  to  firmness,  that  is,  whether  or  not  it  will 
stand  shipment,  as  well  as  the  other  things  mentioned  in 
table  2  of  Chapter  VII  on  small  fruits. 

Choosing  varieties  for  planting.  The  main  planting 
should  consist  of  standard  varieties  that  have  proved  to  be 
successful.  New  kinds  should  be  planted  only  in  a  limited 
way  at  first  until  their  value  has  been  proved.  Plant  two 
varieties  of  each  kind  of  fruit  except  strawberries.  Three 
or  four  different  varieties  of  this  fruit  ripening  in  succession 
will  distribute  the  labor  over  a  longer  period  of  time  and 
prevent  overstocking  the  supply  needed  in  the  home  or 
market. 

When  a  demand  arises  for  some  special  kind  of  fruit 
because  of  certain  qualities  it  possesses,  the  gardener  should 
devote  more  time  to  its  production  in  order  to  meet  the 
needs  of  the  market. 

Packing  the  fruit.  When  any  of  the  small  fruits  are  grown 
in  sufficient  quantity  to  market,  the  following  things  should 
be  considered :  (i)  The  size  of  the  fruit  containers  as  deter- 
mined by  custom,  law,  or  market  requirements;  (2)  the 
construction  of  the  containers,  that  they  may  be  as  light  as  is 
consistent  with  strength  and  stiffness;  (3)  the  neatness  and 
cleanliness  of  the  packages.  The  quart  box  is  used  in  market- 
ing most  small  fruits.     An  exception  is  usually  made  in  the 


221 


222  GARDEN   CROPS 

case  of  red  raspberries  which  are  put  up  in  pint  cups  or  boxes, 
and  sometimes  with  currants  that  are  frequently  sold  in  the 
climax  basket.  When  the  fruits  are  to  be  marketed  in 
pint  or  quart  boxes  these  small  containers  are  packed  in  a 
crate. 

It  is  important  that  no  decayed,  unripe,  or  imperfect 
berries  should  be  placed  in  the  containers  with  fruit  intended 
either  for  home  use  or  for  the  market.  Such  fruit  will  not 
only  prevent  the  owner  from  securing  a  reasonable  price 
for  his  product  but  will  also  cause  the  rapid  decay  of  the 
perfect  fruit. 

If  the  grower  desires  to  build  up  a  trade  all  berries  should 
be  as  nearly  uniform  in  size  and  quality  as  possible,  and  must 
be  clean. 

Gathering  the  crop.  In  picking  strawberries  a  short 
piece  of  stem  should  be  left  on  each  berry.  If  berries  are 
slipped  from  the  stem  their  keeping  and  shipping  qualities 
are  injured. 

Hand  picking  is  the  most  satisfactory  method  for  remov- 
ing small  fruits  from  vines  or  bushes.  They  should  be 
placed,  not  dropped,  into  the  basket  or  cup,  for  careless 
handling  results  in  bruising  the  fruit.  Bruised  fruit  will 
soon  decay  and  become  worthless. 

The  proper  time  for  picking  depends  on  the  distance  the 
fruit  is  to  be  shipped.  If  the  fruit  is  to  be  used  at  home  or 
sold  in  local  markets  it  should  be  left  on  the  bushes  or  vines 
until  thoroughly  ripened ;  but  if  it  is  to  be  shipped  any  great 
distance  it  must  be  packed  when  firm  and  not  too  ripe.  It 
is  for  this  reason  that  fruit  purchased  near  where  it  is  pro- 
duced usually  is  of  better  quality  than  that  shipped  from  a 
distance.     The  gardener  who  grows  his  own  small  fruit  and 


HARVESTING  AND   MARKETING   SMALL  FRUITS        223 

cares  for  it  in  the  proper  way  will  always  have  a  better 
quality  than  if  it  were  grown  in  a  locality  a  considerable 
distance  from  his  home. 


STUDY    OUTLINE 

i.  What  important  things  should  the  gardener  consider  in  selecting 
varieties  of  small  fruits? 

2.  What  three  points  should  be  taken  into  consideration  when  mar- 
keting small  fruits? 

3.  What  care  should  be  taken  in  picking  small  fruit? 

HOME    AND    COMMUNITY    WORK 

1.  What  small  fruits  are  produced  for  the  market  in  your  locality? 

2.  What  varieties  of  each  kind  of  fruit  are  most  popular  in  your  local 
markets? 


CHAPTER    LXVII 
USEFUL  PLANTS  USED  FOR  ORNAMENT 

The  Scarlet  Runner  bean  may  be  planted  so  that  it  will 
climb  fences  or  the  porches  about  the  house.  In  America 
it  is  better  known  as  a  flower  than  a  vegetable,  but  in 
Europe  it  is  cultivated  extensively  as  a  food  plant. 

The  sugar  pea,  or  edible-pod  pea,  which  when  used  as  a 
food  is  prepared  and  served  like  string  beans,  has  a  blossom 
as  beautiful  as  the  sweet  pea. 

The  variegated  kale  is  often  used  as  an  ornamental  plant. 

Carrots,  because  of  their  attractive  foliage,  are  frequently 
grown  along  walks  or  paths  in  the  garden. 

Parsley,  in  addition  to  its  value  for  garnishing,  is  fre- 
quently planted  as  a  border  for  beds  or  walks  in  the  yard 
or  garden. 

Okra  has  a  beautiful  flower,  besides  being  much  prized  as 
a  vegetable. 

The  martynia,  the  pods  of  which  make  an  excellent  sub- 
stitute for  cucumber  pickles,  has  a  beautiful  flower. 

Pumpkins  or  squashes  are  excellent  plants  to  use  for 
concealing  rough  places  in  the  yard  or  garden.  The  vines 
can  also  be  trained  to  run  on  fences  or  walls. 

Grape  vines  will  cover  fences  or  serve  as  screens  for 
unsightly  places  besides  affording  an  effective  background 
for  other  plants. 

Quince  bushes  can  be  planted  instead  of  lilacs.  The 
blossom  is  ornamental  and  the  fruit  is  of  great  value  to 
the  family  when  made  into  preserves. 

224 


USEFUL   PLANTS  USED  FOR  ORNAMENT 


225 


Sunflowers  may  be  used  along  fences  or  to  serve  as  a 
screen.  Their  seeds  are  valuable  as  food  for  poultry.  Sun- 
flowers are  also  grown  as  supports  for  climbing  beans. 

The  Witloof  chicory  has  a  beautiful  blue  flower  and  pos- 
sesses some  value  as  a  food  plant.     The  leaves  are  used  for 


Fig.  78.     Pole  lima  beans.     Here  this  useful  garden  vegetable  fur- 
nishes a  luxuriant  screen  for  the  back  yard  fence. 

salad  as  well  as  for  greens.  The  roots  are  used  as  an 
adulterant  of  coffee. 

The  Jerusalem  artichoke  has  an  attractive  yellow  blossom 
similar  to  that  of  the  native  sunflower.  It  is  used  for  food 
in  some  parts  of  the  United  States,  perhaps  most  frequently 
for  salads  and  pickles. 

The  castor  bean  is  used  for  screening  unsightly  objects 
from  view.     The  castor  plant  is  cultivated  in  fields  for  the 

15 


226  GARDEN   CROPS 

beans,  which  yield  a  valuable  medicinal  oil,  the  castor  oil 
of  commerce. 

Pole  lima  beans  are  frequently  planted  so  that  their  vines 
may  serve  as  screens  for  porches,  buildings,  or  the  garden 
fence  (Fig.  78). 

Tomatoes  of  the  tall  varieties,  if  carefully  pruned  to  one 
stem  and  staked  up,  will  serve  as  a  screen  for  fences  or 
unsightly  places. 

Such  plants  as  those  discussed  in  this  chapter  are  being 
used  more  and  more  for  decorative  purposes,  replacing  to 
some  extent  the  merely  ornamental  flowering  plants.  The 
reason  for  this  is  the  great  demand  for  food.  This  is  not 
merely  a  temporary  demand  but  will  increase  as  our  popu- 
lation increases.  For  this  reason  every  one  should  know 
more  about  the  ornamental  plants  that  can  be  used  as  food. 


STUDY    OUTLINE 

1.  Name  ten  useful  plants  that  are  grown  for  ornamental  purposes. 

2.  How  is  each  of  these  plants  used  as  a  food? 

HOME    AND    COMMUNITY    WORK 

1.  Are  there  any  food  plants  grown  in  your  community  for  ornamental 
purposes? 

2.  If  so,  name  and  describe  them. 

3.  How  is  each  used  as  a  food? 


CHAPTER   LXVIII 

PLANTS  TO  BEAUTIFY  THE  YARD  OR  GARDEN 

The  appearance  of  a  yard  or  garden  (Fig.  79)  is  greatly 
improved  by  the  presence  of  flowers  and  shrubbery.  Some 
well-known  varieties  are  suggested  in  this  chapter  as  a  help 
to  the  gardener  in  making  desirable  selections  for  his  grounds. 
Vines  and  window  boxes  add  much  to  the  attractive  appear- 
ance of  the  home  (Fig.  81). 


79.     A  flower-bordered  vegetable  garden.     Ornamental 
much  beauty  and  interest  to  a  well-kept  garden. 

227 


22i 


GARDEN   CROPS 


Bulbs.  Popular  hardy  flowering  bulbs  for  fall  planting 
are  hyacinths,  tulips,  narcissi,  and  lilies;  for  spring  planting, 
cannas,    dahlias,    gladioli,    tuberoses,    and    the    caladiums. 


Fig.  80.     A  moon  vine.     This  ornamental  plant  affords  an  excellent 
covering  for  the  garden  fence. 

Vines.  The  white  moonflower  is  a  vigorous  vine  that 
will  make  a  growth  of  50  feet  in  one  season.  It  has  large, 
funnel-shaped  flowers  and  abundant  foliage.  This  vine  is 
very  suitable  for  screening  porches  and  fences  (Fig.  80) . 

The  matrimony  vine  is  largely  used  for  covering  unsightly 
buildings  or  fences  and  for  furnishing  shade  for  porches. 

The  Boston  ivy  may  be  used  where  a  covering  for  brick  or 
stone  walls  is  desired  or  for  purely  ornamental  purposes  on 
fences  or  on  a  trellis. 


PLANTS   TO    BEAUTIFY   THE   YARD    OR   GARDEN 


229 


The  Virginia  creeper,  honeysuckle,  trumpet  flower,  false 
bitter  sweet,  and  several  kinds  of  clematis  are  also  popular 
vines  in  many  sections  of  the  country. 

Plants  for  ground  covering.  Trailing  myrtle  or  vinca, 
snow-in-summer,  moneywort,  and  moss  pink  are  used  for 
ground  coverings. 

Perennials.  Among  our  most  popular  perennials  which 
may  be  recommended  as  desirable  for  any  flower  garden 


Fig.  81.     Starting  ornamental  plants  in  egg  shells  in  a  window  garden. 

Notice  the  climbing  vines  and  the  luxuriant  plants  and 

vines  in  the  window  box. 


are  peonies,  phlox,  pinks,  golden  glow,  coneflower,  and  lark- 
spur.    The   following   classification    may   help   the   young 


230  GARDEN    CROPS 

gardener  in  making  a  selection  of  perennials  that  will  be 
most  suited  to  his  particular  purposes. 

Perennials  for  cut  flowers:  Columbine,   forget-me-not,  phlox, 

delphinium,  peonies,  chrysanthemums. 
Perennials  that  succeed  best  in  sunny  places:   Sweet  William, 

foxglove,  phlox,  coneflower. 
Perennials  that  flourish  in  shady  places:  Forget-me-not,  hardy 

pansies,  columbine,  lily-of-the-valley. 
White-flowering  perennials:  Funkia  or  day  lily,  snow-in-sum- 

mer,  Shasta  daisy,  yucca. 
Yellow-flowering  perennials:  Golden  glow,  gold  flower,  colum- 
bine, helianthus,  chrysanthemums. 
Pink-flowering  perennials:  Garden  pinks,  hardy  hibiscus  or 

rosemallow,  hollyhocks,  peonies,  dicentra  (bleeding  heart). 
Red-flowering  perennials:   Cardinal  flower,  beard's  tongue, 

anemone  japonica,  peonies,  oriental  poppy. 
Blue-flowering  perennials:  Phlox,  columbine,   delphinium  or 

larkspur,  hardy  sage,  Japan  iris. 

Shrubs.  When  carefully  arranged,  shrubs  have  a  dis- 
tinctly decorative  value  in  yard,  garden,  or  lawn.  They 
may  be  grouped  as  follows: 

Shrubs  for  cut  flowers:  Lilac,  spirea,  hydrangea,  syringa, 
snowball,  weigelia. 

Shrubs  attractive  for  their  fruit:  Japanese  barberry,  snow- 
berry,  strawberry  tree,  high -bush  cranberry,  wahoo, 
viburnum. 

Drouth-resisting  shrubs:  Russian  olive,  Siberian  pea  tree, 
St.  John's  wort,  sand  cherry. 

Shrubs  suited  to  cold  climates:  Lilac,  snowball,  bush  honey- 
suckle, Juneberry. 

Shrubs  that  like  sunny  situations:  Blue  spirea,  Carolina 
alspice,  oleaster. 


PLANTS   TO   BEAUTIFY   THE   YARD   OR   GARDEN         231 

Shrubs  for  shady  places:  St.  John's  wort,  snowberry,  red  bud 
or  Judas  tree,  red-stemmed  dogwood. 

White -flowering  shrubs:  Siberian  dogwood,  silverbell,  pep- 
perbush. 

Yellow -flowering  shrubs:  Golden  bell,  golden  currant,  St. 
John's  wort,  forsythia. 

Red -flowering  shrubs:  Althea,  red  bud,  currant  red  flower, 
japonica  or  Japanese  quince. 

Pink -flowering  shrubs:  Weigelia,  flowering  almond,  flower- 
ing crab. 

STUDY    OUTLINE 

1.  Name  some  bulbs  suitable  for  fall  planting. 

2.  Name  some  bulbs  suitable  for  spring  planting. 

3.  Name  three  vines  widely  used  for  ornamental  purposes. 

4.  Name  two  perennials  used  for  each  of  the  following  purposes: 
cut  flowers,  planting  in  sunny  places,  and  planting  in  shady  places. 

5.  Name  two  perennials  with  white  flowers,  two  with  yellow,  two  with 
pink,  and  two  with  red. 

6.  Suggest  two  kinds  of  shrubs  used  for  each  of  the  following  purposes: 
cut  flowers,  attractive  fruit,  to  resist  drought,  to  plant  in  cold  climates, 
to  plant  in  sunny  places,  and  to  plant  in  shady  places. 


CHAPTER   LXIX 
FALL   WORK   FOR  THE   SPRING   GARDEN 

The  successful  gardener  has  come  to  realize  that  gardening 
is  an  all-year-round  occupation,  and  that  time  and  money 
expended  in  the  fall  insure  a  better  spring  and  summer 
garden.  One  of  the  chief  reasons  for  fall  garden  work  is 
that  insects  that  are  troublesome  to  crops  in  the  spring  and 
summer  are  sheltered  in  an  early  stage  of  their  lives  during 
the  winter  by  weeds  and  garden  refuse.  Many  gardeners 
either  do  not  know  this  fact  about  the  habits  of  insects  or 
utterly  disregard  it. 

Why  garden  trash  should  be  burned  in  the  fall.  Many 
injurious  insects  hibernate  in  the  garden  trash,  and  for  this 
reason  all  such  material  should  be  raked  up  in  the  fall  and 
burned.  Cleaning  the  fall  garden  will  destroy  many  insects 
that  would  otherwise  injure  the  spring  and  summer  garden. 

Fall  plowing  and  spading.  Fall  plowing  will  help  put 
the  soil  in  better  condition  for  spring  working.  It  will 
also  aid  in  destroying  insects.  After  spading  or  plowing, 
the  soil  should  be  left  rough,  that  is,  not  harrowed  or  raked. 
This  rough  surface  will  permit  the  air  and  rain  to  penetrate 
the  soil.  The  moisture  in  the  soil,  especially  in  the  North, 
later  will  freeze  and  thaw  and  the  freezing  and  thawing 
will  help  make  the  soil  mellow. 

Fertilizing.  Many  gardeners  scatter  fresh  stable  manure 
over  the  newly  plowed  soil.  The  fall  and  early  spring  rains 
will  dissolve  the  plant  food  in  the  manure  and  enable  it  to 
be  taken  up  by  the  soil. 

232 


FALL  WORK  FOR  THE  SPRING  GARDEN  233 

Cover  crops  and  green  manure.  Crops  are  frequently 
planted  in  the  fall  to  cover  ground  which  would  otherwise 
be  bare.  These  cover  crops  include  mostly  legumes  like 
clover,  alfalfa,  soy  beans,  and  cowpeas.  Rye  is  not  a 
legume  but  it  is  a  favorite  cover  crop.  These  crops  grow 
during  the  fall  and  early  spring  and  are  plowed  under  in 
their  green  state  before  the  garden  season  begins.  Green 
cover  crops  that  are  plowed  under  in  the  spring  to  add 
humus  to  the  soil  are  called  green  manure.  This  manure 
improves  the  physical  condition  of  the  soil  and  adds  plant 
food  for  the  next  crop. 

Seed  boxes,  tools,  and  apparatus.  Prepare  your  seed 
boxes  and  hotbeds  or  cold  frames  in  the  fall.  In  the  North, 
the  soil  for  the  seed  boxes  and  hotbeds  must  be  secured 
before  the  ground  freezes. 

All  tools  should  be  cleaned  before  they  are  put  away  for 
the  winter.  Oiling  or  greasing  the  iron  parts  will  prevent 
their  rusting.  The  apparatus  for  drying  and  canning,  and 
boxes  for  storing,  may  well  be  prepared  in  the  fall. 

STUDY    OUTLINE 

1.  Why  should  all  garden  trash  be  destroyed  in  the  fall? 

2.  Name  three  cover  crops, 

3.  What  is  green  manure?     What  is  the  advantage  of  using  it? 

HOME    AND    COMMUNITY    WORK 

Visit  five  gardens   in  your   neighborhood   and   learn   what  work  is 
usually  done  in  them  in  the  fall. 


PROJECTS  AND  PROBLEMS 

I  SEEDS 
Dissemination  of  Seeds 

i.  Wind-blown  seeds.  Procure  fruit  of  the  dandelion,  thistle, 
or  milkweed.  Drop  them  from  a  second  or  third  story  window, 
and  note  where  the  seeds  reach  the  ground.  Did  they  fall  directly 
to  the  earth?  Why  do  some  gardeners  who  practice  clean  culti- 
vation have  difficulty  in  keeping  their  gardens  free  from  weeds? 

2.  Seeds  of  edible  fruits.  Cut  an  apple  or  pear  in  quarters. 
Notice  the  position  of  the  seed  with  reference  to  the  pulp.  How 
may  seeds  from  the  core  of  an  apple,  pear,  or  similar  fruit  become 
widely  scattered?  How  are  seeds  of  the  raspberry,  blackberry, 
or  strawberry  disseminated?  How  do  birds  aid  in  scattering 
the  seeds  of  edible  fruits? 

3.  Seeds  carried  by  animals.  Gather  the  fruit  of  the  Spanish 
needle,  cocklebur,  and  burdock.  Examine  them  and  see  how 
they  are  equipped  to  adhere  to  clothing  or  to  the  hair  of  animals 
and  in  this  way  may  be  carried  from  place  to  place.  Put  one  of 
these  or  a  similar  bur  in  your  own  clothing  or  in  the  hair  of  a 
dog  or  cat  and  see  how  long  it  will  remain. 

4.  Seeds  that  float.  Put  sound  hickory  nuts  or  walnuts  in 
water.  How  long  do  they  continue  to  float?  How  might  such 
nuts  be  carried  long  distances  ?  Find  out  how  some  of  the  small 
islands  in  the  ocean  were  planted  with  palms  by  floating  coco- 
nuts that  washed  upon  their  shores. 

5.  Seeds  discharged  from  bursting  pods.  Set  pods  of  the 
bean  or  pea  away  to  dry.  Later,  when  they  are  quite  dry,  handle 
them  roughly  and  note  the  result.  Observe  a  bean  patch  where 
the  pods  have  become  over-ripe. 

234 


PROJECTS  AND  PROBLEMS 


235 


Testing  Garden  Seed  for  Purity  and  Vitality 

6.  Testing  for  purity.  Seeds  to  be  used  in  the  garden  should 
be  pure,  that  is,  not  mixed  with  other  seeds,  especially  weed 
seed.  Obtain  a  sample  of  pure  seed  from  an  experienced  and 
reliable  gardener,  or  from  the  state  experiment  station,  or  from 
the   United   States   Department   of   Agriculture.     Measure   and 


Fig.  82.     Preparing  for  spring  planting.     A  schoolroom  class 
at  work  testing  seeds  for  purity. 

weigh  a  small  quantity  of  the  sample  procured.  Using  the  same 
measure,  take  an  equal  quantity  of  the  same  kind  of  seed  from 
that  which  is  to  be  planted.  How  does  the  weight  of  your  own 
seed  compare  with  that  of  the  sample?  Examine  your  own 
seed  carefully,  comparing  it  with  the  standard  sample  to  deter- 
mine the  percentage  of  good  seeds,  of  foreign  seeds,  and  of  trash. 
Record  the  results  in  each  case. 


236  GARDEN  CROPS 

7.  Testing  for  vitality.  Pure  seed  may  contain  many  grains 
that  are  dead  or  of  low  vitality.  To  determine  vitality  the 
germination  test  must  be  applied.  From  a  quantity  of  pure 
seed  determined  by  testing  for  purity  select  100  grains  of  each 
variety  to  be  planted.  Follow  in  detail  the  suggestions  already 
given  (Chapter  XII)  to  determine  what  percentage  of  the  pure 
seed  will  germinate  and  show  a  good  strong  germ.  Remember 
that  seeds  should  not  be  planted  if  they  show  but  little  vitality 
when  placed  in  the  germinator. 

Testing  Seed  for  Food  Substances 

From  the  next  four  exercises  we  determine  that  the  principal 
food  substances  in  seeds  are  protein,  starch,  sugar  and  fat. 

8.  Testing  for  protein.  Put  a  drop  of  nitric  acid  on  the  white 
of  an  egg.  The  yellow  stain  resulting  indicates  the  presence  of 
protein.  Likewise  put  two  drops  of  nitric  acid  on  a  part  of  a 
bean  or  pea.  Compare  the  result  with  that  obtained  when  acid 
was  put  on  the  white  of  an  egg.     Record  result. 

9.  Testing  for  starch.  Put  two  drops  of  iodine  solution  upon 
a  small  bit  of  starch  paste.  The  dark  blue  or  blackish  color 
resulting  indicates  that  starch  is  present.  Now  put  two  drops 
of  iodine  solution  upon  a  portion  of  a  fresh  seed.  Then  com- 
pare the  result  with  that  obtained  by  placing  the  solution  upon 
the  starch  paste.     Record  results. 

10.  Testing  for  sugar.  The  presence  of  sugar  in  seeds  can 
frequently  be  detected  merely  by  tasting  the  seed  parts. 

11.  Testing  for  fats  and  oils.  Scrape  the  seed  parts  with  a 
knife.  Place  the  small  particles  which  result  upon  a  piece  of 
white  paper.  Lay  this  paper  upon  a  plate  and  heat  it  slowly. 
Observe  the  effect  upon  the  paper  and  record  it. 

12.  Studying  garden  seed.  Procure  samples  of  seed  of  all  the 
garden  crops  cultivated  in  your  community.  Study  these  care- 
fully and  learn  to  distinguish  each  by  name. 


PROJECTS  AND  PROBLEMS  237 

II  SOILS1 

i.  Studying  soil  for  texture. 

Material:   Samples  of  clay,  gravel,  sand,  loam,  leaf  mold. 
Compare  these  samples  of  soils  carefully  and  note  the  different 
textures  of  each. 

2.  Testing  soils  for  retention  of  water. 

Apparatus:     Five    glass    bottles    or    fruit    jars;     five    large 

funnels;  a  piece  of  muslin. 
Material :  Soil  of  each  of  the  kinds  given  above ;  water. 
Fill  each  funnel  with  one  kind  of  soil,  using  equal  weights  for 
all.  Tie  a  piece  of  muslin  over  the  small  end  of  each  funnel  to 
prevent  the  earth  from  washing  through.  Then  place  the  five 
funnels  in  the  five  glass  fruit  jars  or  bottles.  Pour  an  equal 
quantity  of  water  in  each  funnel  and  note  at  the  same  time  which 
soil  permits  water  to  pass  through  the  fastest,  which  holds  it 
longest,  and  which  retains  the  largest  volume.  Determine  the 
rank  of  each  soil  according  to  its  capacity  for  retaining  water. 
After  two  or  three  pourings  of  water  weigh  the  funnels  and  note 
the  differences  in  their  weights.  Which  soil  retained  the  most 
water?  Which  soil  would  dry  out  the  soonest  after  a  heavy 
rain?  Which  soil  would  be  ready  to  plow  first  in  the  spring? 
Which  soil  would  best  stand  a  very  dry  summer?  Which  would 
best  stand  a  wet  summer? 

3.  Showing  rise  of  water  in  soils  (Capillarity) 
Apparatus:    Five  baking  powder  cans. 

Material:    Soil  of  each  of  the  kinds  given  above;    water. 
Punch  several  holes  in  the  bottom  of  each  can.     Fill  each  can 
with  a  different  kind  of  soil  and  set  them  in  a  pan  containing 
water.     Do  not  set  the  cans  flat  on  the  bottom  but  on  the  edges 

1  Part  of  the  material  for  the  exercises  in  the  second  and  third  groups  of  these 
projects  are  taken  from  the  author's  work  entitled,  Agriculture  in  the  Public 
Schools,  and  from  bulletins  of  the  United  States  Department  of  Agriculture  and 
the  State  Agricultural  Colleges  of  the  several  states. 


238  GARDEN   CROPS 

of  two  small  boards  previously  placed  in  the  pan.  Water  will 
rise  in  the  cans  through  the  holes  in  the  bottom.  In  which 
can  does  the  soil  first  show  moisture  at  the  top?  Which  last? 
Beginning  with  the  mostt  porous  write  the  soils  down  in  regular 
order. 

4.  Showing  effect  of  drainage. 

Apparatus:    A  can  or  a  milk  crock;    a  flower  pot  or  a  can 

with  a  hole  in  the  bottom. 
Material:  Clay  or  loam;  seeds. 
Fill  each  can  or  crock  with  clay  or  loam,  and  plant  the  same 
kind  of  seed  in  each.  Set  the  cans  in  a  warm,  light  place  and 
every  day  or  two  for  ten  or  fifteen  days  pour  an  equal  quantity 
of  water  in  each.  Now  note  which  plants  grow  the  better, 
those  in  the  container  with  holes  in  the  bottom  to  admit  air  and 
allow  drainage,  or  those  in  the  solid  can  or  crock? 

5.  Showing  effect  of  air  in  soils. 
Apparatus:    Two  chalk  boxes. 

Material:    Loam;    clay  or  leaf  mold;    seeds. 
Fill  one  box  with  loam,  loosely  packed.     Fill  the  other  with 
clay  or  leaf  mold,  packed  tightly.     Plant  the  same  kind  of  seed 
in  each  box  and  give  both  the  same  attention.     In  which  does 
the  plant  seem  to  grow  the  better? 

6.  Showing  need  of  ventilation  or  effect  of  air  on  plant  growth. 
Apparatus:   A  bottle  with  a  tightly  fitting  cork. 
Material:    Beans;    water. 

Soak  some  beans  in  water  for  about  twenty  hours.  Fill 
the  bottle  about  two-thirds  full  with  the  soaked  beans. 
Pour  in  water  until  it  stands  half  an  inch  above  the  beans. 
Cork  the  bottle  tightly.  The  seed  may  sprout  but  will  not  grow. 
Why  not?  When  the  cork  is  removed  a  lighted  paper  placed 
inside  will  not  burn.  Why  not?  When  the  surplus  water  is 
removed  and  fresh  air  is  admitted  the  beans  start  to  grow.  Why  ? 
Does  drainage  assist  in  ventilating  soils? 


PROJECTS  AND  PROBLEMS  239 

7.  Showing  that  seeds  need  plant  food. 

Material:    Seeds;  pure  sand;  rich  soil  or  fertilizer. 
Plant   seeds  in  the  sand  and  keep  it  damp.     Note  that  the 
seeds  sprout  but  do  not  grow.     Why  not?     Add  rotten  leaves, 
stable  fertilizer,  or  good  black  dirt.     Note  the  change  in  the  plant. 

8.  Showing  advantage  gained  by  improving  the  soil. 
Apparatus:   Four  boxes  about  3x4  feet  in  size. 

Material:  Soil;  stable  manure;  two  grades  of  commercial 
fertilizer;  seeds. 
Fill  all  the  boxes  with  the  same  kind  of  soil.  In  the  first  mix 
a  small  quantity  of  stable  fertilizer,  in  the  second  a  small  quantity 
of  high  grade  commercial  fertilizer,  in  the  third  the  same  quantity 
of  cheap  commercial  fertilizer,  and  in  the  fourth  omit  the  fer- 
tilizer. Plant  the  same  kind  of  seed  in  each  box;  give  all  the 
plants  the  same  cultivation.  Notice  the  difference  between  the 
plants  in  the  fertilized  and  the  non-fertilized  soils. 

9.  Showing  need  of  heat  in  soil. 
Apparatus:    Two  cans  or  crocks. 
Material:    Soil;    seeds. 

Fill  cans  or  crocks  with  the  same  kind  of  soil  and  plant  the 
same  kind  of  seed  in  each.  Place  one  where  it  wi]l  be  light  and 
warm,  the  other  where  it  is  cold  (not  freezing)  and  light.  Note 
the  difference  in  growth.  What  can  a  gardener  do  to  add 
warmth  to  his  soil? 

10.  Showing  change  of  heat  in  soil. 
Apparatus:    Two  cans;    a  thermometer. 
Material:   Dry  sand  or  loam;   wet  sand  or  loam. 

Fill  one  can  with  the  dry  soil  and  the  other  with  the  wet  soil. 
In  each  can  place  a  thermometer  about  half  an  inch  under  the 
surface  of  the  soil.  Set  the  cans  in  the  sunlight.  Observe  the 
change  of  temperature  of  each  can  from  time  to  time.  Which 
has  the  higher  temperature?  What  effect  will  tile  drains  have 
on  temperature? 


240  GARDEN   CROPS 

ii.  Showing  effect  of  a  mulch  on  the  moisture-retaining 
properties  of  the  soil. 

Apparatus:  Four  small  boxes  6  inches  deep. 
Material:  Rich  soil;  sand;  cut  straw;  water. 
Fill  each  box  half  full  with  the  same  kind  of  soil.  Pour  the 
same  quantity  of  water  into  each  box.  Cover  the  soil  in  the 
first  box  with  2  inches  of  dry  sand;  in  the  second  box  cover  with 
2  inches  of  loose,  dry  soil  of  the  same  kind  as  that  already  in  the 
box;  in  the  third  box  cover  with  2  inches  of  cut  straw;  in  the 
fourth  cover  with  packed  soil  of  the  same  kind  as  that  already 
in  the  box.  Weigh  the  boxes  and  record  the  weight  of  each. 
In  ten  days  weigh  all  the  boxes  again.  Which  box  lost  the  most 
moisture?  Which  box  lost  the  least?  Why  should  the  gardener 
stir  the  soil  frequently?  Should  the  ground  be  plowed  fre- 
quently in  dry  weather?     Why? 

12.  Showing  effect  of  fertilizer  on  crops. 

When  fertilizing  your  garden  crops  skip  a  few  feet  here  and  there 
and  as  the  season  progresses  note  the  difference  in  the  growth  of 
plants  that  received  the  fertilizer  and  those  that  did  not. 

13.  Detecting  acids  and  alkalies  in  soils. 

Material:  Red  and  blue  litmus  paper;  vinegar;  ashes: 
samples  of  soil. 
Vinegar  has  a  sour  taste  and  contains  an  acid.  A  piece  of  blue 
litmus  paper  dipped  in  vinegar  will  turn  red.  Dip  blue  litmus 
paper  in  several  samples  of  soil  and  see  if  the  paper  changes  to 
red.  If  so,  the  soil  is  sour  and  needs  a  coat  of  ashes  or  lime  to 
neutralize  the  acid  and  thus  sweeten  the  soil.  Red  litmus  paper 
placed  in  moist  ashes  turns  blue.  Ashes  contain  potash  and  lime 
which  are  alkaline.  If  the  red  litmus  paper  placed  in  your  soil 
turns  blue,  your  soils  are  alkaline.  Alkaline  soils  need  a  fertilizer 
rich  in  acid  to  be  neutralized.  When  the  paper  is  not  changed 
at  all  the  soil  is  said  to  be  neutral.  Good  producing  soils  are 
usually  neutral,  although  they  may  sometimes  be  slightly  alkaline. 


PROJECTS  AND  PROBLEMS  241 

14.  Comparing  plant-food  value  of  top  soil  and  subsoil. 

Apparatus:    Two  cans  of  equal  size. 

Material:  Soil;  subsoil;  seed  corn. 
Obtain  subsoil  by  digging  down  3  or  4  feet  in  ordinary  ground. 
Be  sure  to  get  below  the  top  soil.  Fill  one  of  the  cans  with  this 
subsoil.  In  the  other  can  place  the  good  surface  soil  obtained 
directly  above  the  subsoil.  Plant  corn  in  both  cans  and  keep 
both  cans  under  the  same  conditions  as  to  heat,  sunlight,  and 
moisture.  After  about  ten  days  to  two  weeks,  compare  the  size 
of  the  stalks  of  corn.  Why  does  corn,  or  any  other  garden  crop, 
planted  in  a  dead  or  unfilled  furrow  usually  make  a  small 
growth?  Did  you  ever  plant  flowers  or  vegetables  in  earth  that 
had  been  thrown  out  of  a  cellar  or  deep  ditch?  Try  this  some 
time.  Will  subsoil  gradually  improve  the  longer  it  is  exposed 
to  the  elements?     Why? 

15.  Comparing  plant-food  value  of  worn-out  soils  and  new 
soils. 

Apparatus:   Two  boxes  about  2  feet  square. 
Material:    New    soil;   worn-out    soil;    seed   corn   or    flower 
seeds. 

Fill  one  box  with  new  soil  obtained  in  new  ground,  that  is, 
ground  which  has  never  been  tilled,  or  by  digging  about  2  or  3 
inches  below  the  surface  in  an  open  forest.  Fill  the  other  box 
with  soil  taken  from  about  the  same  depth  in  a  field  where  the 
soil  is  old  and  run  down.  Plant  corn  or  flower  seeds  in  each 
box  and  place  the  boxes  under  similar  conditions  as  to  sunlight, 
heat,  and  moisture.  Watch  them  from  time  to  time  and  after 
five  or  six  weeks  compare  and  note  the  difference,  if  any,  in  the 
size  of  the  plants  in  each. 

What  process  will  partially  restore  the  plant  foods  in  worn- 
out  soils  ?  Why  is  crop  rotation  a  benefit  to  the  soil  ?  Why  does 
drainage  make  more  plant  food  available?  How  does  good 
tillage  improve  a  crop? 

16 


242  GARDEN   CROPS 

III  PLANTS 

i.  Studying  root  conditions. 

Material:    Roots  of  several  weeds  and  vegetables. 
Compare  these  roots  and  note  the  differences.     Which  roots 
are   fibrous?     Which  fleshy?     Which   are   long   tap   roots?     To 
observe  root  hairs,  sprout  wheat,  oats  or  beans  between  moist 
blotting  paper. 

2.  Showing  root  conditions  of  legumes. 

Material:    Roots  of  clover,  cow  peas,  vetches,  and  alfalfa 
plants. 
Gather  these  so  carefully  that  all  the  roots  will  be  preserved. 
Wash  the  roots  with  care  and  note  which  has  the  greatest  number 
of  nodules.     Which  is  the  best  for  improving  the  soil? 

3.  Finding  stamens  and  pistils. 
Material:   A  perfect  strawberry  blossom. 

Perfect  flowers  have  both  stamens  and  pistils  present.  Find 
such  a  flower  in  the  strawberry  patch  and  point  out  these  organs. 

4.  Comparing  perfect  and  imperfect  flowers. 

Material:   A  perfect  and  an  imperfect  strawberry  blossom. 

Flowers  having  pistils  and  not  stamens  are  imperfect  flowers 
(pistillate).  Find  such  a  strawberry  blossom  and  compare  it 
with  the  former. 

In  Chapter  LXII  you  have  an  illustration  of  what  must  take 
place  before  an  imperfect  flower  will  produce  fruit.  What  kind 
of  flower  is  found  on  Indian  corn?  Where  are  the  stamens  on 
the  corn  plant?     The  pistil? 

5.  Showing  what  is  necessary  to  produce  seed. 
Material:   Perfect  and  imperfect  cucumber  blossoms. 

Cover  up  a  few  flowers  that  contain  only  pistils.  Did  any 
seed  develop  ?  Why  not  ?  Will  flowers  that  contain  only  stamens 
(staminate)  ever  produce  seed?  Why  not?  How  are  new  and 
improved  varieties  of  plants  obtained? 


PROJECTS  AND  PROBLEMS  243 

6.  Learning  to  know  troublesome  weeds. 

Material :  A  good  specimen  of  each  of  the  following  trouble- 
some weeds:  Burdock,  Canada  thistle,  ox-eye  daisy,  cockle- 
bur,   pig-weed,  toadflax   or   butter- and-eggs,   sow-thistle, 
sour-dock,    plantain,    wild    lettuce,   wild    carrot,    quack 
grass,  Russian  thistle,  wild  parsnip,  horse-tail,  iron- weed, 
and  others  that  may  be  common  in  your  neighborhood. 
Learn  to  recognize  each  of  these  weeds  and  to  know  its  name. 
Can  you  tell  their  history?     Many  were  brought  to  this  country 
at  an  early  day  and  were  planted  for  ornamental  purposes.     Find 
out  which  ones.     Make  a  collection  of  weed  seeds  and  learn  to 
distinguish  each  kind  by  name.     (Consult   Ohio    Weed  Manual 
published   at  Wooster   Experiment   Station,   Wooster,   Ohio,   or 
Farmers'  Bulletin  28,  United  States  Department  of  Agriculture, 
Washington,  D.  C.) 

7.  Propagating  by  tip  layering. 
Material:    A  black  raspberry  branch. 

Bend  the  tip  of  a  branch  of  black  raspberry  over  to  the  ground 
and  cover  it  with  earth.  It  will  soon  take  root  and  form  a  new 
plant.  Try  this  several  times  and  see  how  many  new  plants  can 
be  started  from  one  old  plant. 

8.  Propagating  by  vine  layering. 
Material:   A  long  branch  of  grape  vine. 

Bend  the  branch  down  flat  on  the  ground  and  lay  it  in  a  small 
trench  in  the  ground.  Cover  it  entirely  with  earth.  Roots  will 
put  out  at  intervals  and  branches  will  come  up  through  the 
ground.  Afterward  you  can  cut  the  old  vine  between  each  pair 
of  new  shoots  and  thus  have  several  new  plants.  Try  this  and 
see  how  many  new  plants  you  will  have  gained  by  covering  some 
old  vines. 

9.  Propagating  by  mound  layering. 
[Material:  A  gooseberry  or  currant  plant. 

Take  any  plant  which  stools,  as  the  gooseberry  or  currant,  and 


244 


GARDEN    CROPS 


throw  up  the  earth  in  a  mound  around  the  plants,  so  as  to  cover 
the  bases  of  several  of  the  stems,  say  4  or  5  inches  deep.     This 


Fig.  83.     Second  grade  pupils  learning  how  to  propagate  plants. 

will  cause  each  stem  to  throw  out  roots  and  thus  make  several 
individual  plants. 

10.  Developing  mold  from  spores. 

Material:  A  piece  of  damp  bread;  a  potato. 
Set  the  damp  bread  in  a  dark  place  and  let  it  mold.  Take  a 
piece  of  potato  or  potato  peeling  and  place  some  of  the  mold 
from  the  bread  on  the  surface  of  the  freshly  cut  edge.  Lay  the 
potato  away  in  a  damp,  dark  place  and  observe  occasionally 
the  growth  of  the  mold. 

11.  Learning  to  propagate  strawberry  plants. 
Material:   A  strawberry  plant. 

Strawberries  propagate  by  runners.     Plant  some  strawberry 
plants.     After  they  have  been  well  cared  for  and  reach  a  good 


PROJECTS  AND  PROBLEMS  245 

size  notice  the  number  of  runners  sent  out  and  the  new  plants 
that  have  been  formed  the  same  season. 

12.  Showing  that  plants  require  light  for  growth. 
Apparatus:    Two  cans  filled  with  earth. 
Material:    Some  beans  or  grains  of  corn. 

Plant  a  few  beans  or  grains  of  corn  in  each  can.  Place  one 
can  in  a  light  place  and  the  other  in  the  dark,  but  under  the  same 
conditions  with  regard  to  soil,  heat,  air,  and  moisture.  Note 
the  difference  in  their  growth.  Why  are  plants  in  the  field  and 
orchard  that  grow  in  the  shade  inferior  to  those  that  grow  in  the 
open?  Why  are  corn  plants  that  grow  directly  under  the  shade 
of  a  tree  inferior  to  those  grown  in  open  fields?  Is  there  more 
than  one  reason?  Why  are  low  buds  on  trees  in  a  dense  forest 
only  slightly  developed?  Why  are  trees  in  a  dense  forest  tall 
with  only  a  few  limbs  growing  high  on  the  trunk?  How  are  the 
trees  grown  which  are  used  for  telephone  and  telegraph  poles? 
Which  make  the  better  logs,  tall  straight  limbless  trees,  or  low 
heavy-bodied  and  heavy-limbed  trees?     Why? 

13.  Showing  that  plants  require  heat  for  growth. 
Apparatus:    Two  cans  filled  with  earth. 
Material:   Some  corn  or  beans. 

Plant  corn  or  beans  in  each  can  and  keep  them  under  the  same 
conditions  with  regard  to  soil,  moisture,  air,  and  sunlight.  Keep 
one  can  in  a  temperature  of  about  700  to  8o°  P.,  the  other  in  a 
temperature  of  from  200  to  300.  Now  notice  the  difference 
in  growth.  Early  winter  or  late  fall  is  the  best  time  to  try  this 
experiment. 

14.  Showing  that  moisture  is  essential  to  plant  growth. 
Apparatus:    Two  cans  filled  with  earth. 
Material:   Some  corn  or  beans. 

Plant  corn  or  beans  in  each  can.  Keep  both  under  the  same 
conditions  except  that  all  moisture  is  to  be  kept  from  one.  Note 
the  difference  in  growth. 


246  GARDEN   CROPS 

15.  Showing  that  air  is  essential  to  plant  growth. 

Apparatus:  Two  cans  filled  with  earth. 
Material:  Some  corn  or  peas. 
Plant  corn  or  peas  in  both  cans.  Keep  both  under  same  con- 
ditions except  with  regard  to  moisture.  Use  Only  a  moderate 
quantity  of  water  in  one  can  with  drainage.  In  the  other  use  a 
large  quantity  of  water  without  drainage.  The  excess  of  water 
in  the  latter  case  will  exclude  so  much  air  that  the  plant  will  be 
affected.  Note  the  difference.  What  effect  has  a  number  of 
cold,  wet  rains  in  the  spring  upon  the  planted  corn?  What  soil 
is  best  for  carrying  off  surplus  moisture?  What  are  the  uses 
of  tile  drains? 


vSECTION   TWO 
THE  PRESERVATION   OF   GARDEN   CROPS 


CHAPTER    LXX 
WHY   AND   HOW  WE   PRESERVE  FOODS 

There  was  a  time  in  the  world's  history  when  man  did 
not  preserve  foods  for  winter  use.  This  neglect,  due  to 
ignorance,  often  caused  famine  in  many  lands.  The 
world  could  not  prosper  and  develop  when  abundant  food 
was  not  to  be  had  at  all  seasons  of  the  year.  For  this  reason 
people  began  to  study  ways  and  means  of  keeping  for 
winter  and  spring  use  the  food  so  abundant  during  the  grow- 
ing season.  This  study  was  continued,  until  to-day  as  the 
result  of  the  combined  effort  of  so  many  persons  we  have 
perfected  methods  whereby  foods  may  be  kept  for  years. 

How  we  came  to  preserve  foods.  It  has  been  said  that 
berries  that  had  dried  naturally  upon  their  vines  and  bushes 
first  suggested  the  idea  of  drying  foods.  Later,  as  the  result 
of  accident,  the  methods  of  preserving  by  pickling  in  brine 
and  vinegar  and  by  salting  were  discovered.  Preserving 
by  canning,  too,  was  the  result  of  chance  and  was  prac- 
ticed for  years  before  it  was  learned  why  heating  and 
sealing  in  air-tight  jars  prevented  spoiling. 

Why  foods  spoil.  After  years  of  study  it  has  been  proved 
that  spoiling  and  decay  are  caused  by  the  presence  of  fer- 
ments (yeasts),  molds,  and  bacteria.  After  this  became 
known,  the  problem  of  the  preservation  of  foods  became  a 
simple  one,  for  all  that  was  necessary  was  to  find  some  way 
to  kill  these  plants  or  to  prevent  their  growth. 

How  foods  are  preserved  and  stored.  When  our  grand- 
mothers  dried  fruits   and  vegetables   they   prevented   the 

249 


250  GARDEN   CROPS 

growth  of  destructive  agents  simply  by  taking  away  the 
water  necessary  for  their  growth.  When  the  water  was 
removed  the  germs  became  harmless  although  they  were 
not  killed.  Later  those  who  began  pickling,  salting,  pre- 
serving, and  jelly-making  were  unconsciously  using  pre- 
servatives. Yeast,  molds,  and  bacteria  do  not  grow  where 
salt,  sugar,  vinegar,  or  spices  are  present  in  large  quantities. 

Food  may  be  kept  for  long  periods  in  cool  cellars  and 
refrigerators  because  the  little  plants  that  destroy  foods 
are  like  garden  plants — they  grow  well  only  in  a  fairly  warm 
temperature.  Keeping  food  in  cold  places  does  not  destroy 
these  plants,  it  only  retards  their  growth.  When  the  food 
is  removed  to  a  warmer  temperature  they  will  revive  and 
cause  it  to  spoil. 

In  canning  food  we  accomplish  two  things:  First,  by 
heating  it  we  destroy  all  molds,  yeast,  and  bacteria — as 
well  as  their  seeds  or  spores — that  are  present  in  the  food; 
second,  by  enclosing  it  in  air-tight  containers  we  prevent 
more  germs  or  their  spores  from  entering  it. 

Vegetables  and  fruits  may  be  preserved  in  their  natural 
state  for  a  limited  time  by  storing  them  in  indoor  and  out- 
door cellars,  in  pits,  cold  frames,  and  in  cool  or  warm  rooms. 

Why  surplus  food  should  be  conserved.  The  constant 
use  of  fruits  and  vegetables  is  essential  to  good  health. 
Since  vegetables  and  small  fruits  are  so  abundant  at  certain 
seasons  and  so  expensive  and  difficult  to  obtain  at  others,  it 
is  highly  important  that  during  the  growing  season  every 
family  should  preserve  enough  of  such  perishable  food  to 
last  through  the  winter.  The  variety  of  diet  which  good 
health  requires  may  be  maintained  throughout  the  year 
by  conserving  the  surplus  of  the  summer  crops. 


WHY   AND    HOW  WE    PRESERVE    FOODS  251 

Food  production  in  the  world  does  not  keep  step  with  the 
increase  in  population.  Each  year  our  surplus  food  supply 
grows  less.  For  this  reason  we  must  not  only  know  the 
best  methods  of  producing  garden  and  other  food  crops 
and  thus  increasing  the  food  supply,  but  we  must  also  learn 
how  to  preserve  them  in  the  most  economical  manner. 

STUDY    OUTLINE 

1.  What  was  one  cause  of  famine  in  the  early  history  of  the  world? 

2.  What  first  suggested  drying  foods? 

3.  After  drying,  what  methods  of  preserving  were  discovered  as  the 
result  of  accident? 

4.  Why  does  drying  prevent  the  decay  of  foods? 

5.  When  foods  are  pickled,  salted,  or  otherwise  preserved,  what  pre- 
vents decay? 

6.  Why  do  foods  keep  longer  in  cold  storage  than  in  ordinary  tem- 
peratures? 

7.  What  two  things  are  accomplished  when  foods  are  canned? 

8.  What  other  methods  are  used  in  the  preservation  of  foods? 

9.  Why  should  fruits  and  vegetables  form  a  part  of  our  regular  diet? 
10.  Why  should  more  attention  be  given  to  the  preservation  of  foods? 

HOME    AND    COMMUNITY    WORK 

Visit  five  homes  in  your  neighborhood  and  be  prepared  to  answer  the 
following  questions: 

1.  How  many  preserve  food  by  drying?  What  foods  do  they  preserve 
by  this  method? 

2.  How  many  preserve  food  by  pickling  or  salting?  What  foods  do 
they  preserve  by  this  method? 

3.  How  many  preserve  food  by  canning?     What  foods  do  they  can? 

4.  How  many  store  foods  in  the  natural  state?  What  foods  do  they 
store  in  this  way? 

5.  Are  any  other  methods  of  preservation  used?  If  so,  what  methods 
are  used  and  what  foods  are  so  preserved? 


CHAPTER   LXXI 
CANNING:  ONE-PERIOD   COLD-PACK  METHOD 

Garden  products  may  mature  in  larger  quantities  than  the 
family  can  use.  To  prevent  waste  it  is  wise  to  can  them. 
We  have  long  been  accustomed  to  this  mode  of  saving 
fruit.  But  the  canning  of  vegetables  has  been  considered 
too  difficult  to  be  done  satisfactorily  at  home.  The  process, 
however,  is  a  simple  one  and  not  only  saves  waste  but  affords 
an  appetizing  supply  of  good  food  for  the  winter  months. 

Cold-pack  method  of  canning.  The  one-period  cold- 
pack  method  is  the  best  for  canning  vegetables  and  fruits, 
especially  in  the  North.  In  hot  climates  other  methods  of 
canning  are  preferred  by  many  experienced  canners. 

Equipment.  The  equipment  should  consist  of  deep  pans 
for  blanching  (Fig.  86)  the  vegetables  and  fruit;  a  wire 
basket,  or  steamer,  or  several  yards  of  cheesecloth  for  use  in 
blanching;  a  knife  for  removing  air  bubbles  in  containers; 
spoons;  a  knife  for  paring;  a  pan  for  cold  dipping;  salt  for 
vegetables ;  glass  cans  to  hold  the  fruit  and  vegetables ;  new 
rubbers;  and  an  apparatus  for  sterilizing.  There  are  many 
outfits  for  sterilization  on  the  market  but  a  home-made 
one  will  answer  every  purpose.  Select  a  large  tin  pail  with 
a  well  fitting  cover  (Fig.  85).  There  should  be  a  faucet  at 
the  bottom  to  empty  the  water  quickly  and  easily.  Place  a 
smaller  pail,  well  perforated,  inside  the  larger  one.  A  wash 
boiler  (Fig.  90)  is  frequently  used  instead  of  the  large  pail, 
while  a  galvanized  wash  tub  is  excellent  if  provided  with 
a  cover.     In  the  bottom  of  these,  racks  should  be  placed 

252 


CANNING:    ONE-PERIOD    COLD-PACK   METHOD 


253 


to  keep  the  jars  from  touching  the  bottom  and  coming  in 
direct  contact  with  the  heat.  The  racks  may  be  wooden 
slats  (Figs.  85  and  90)  or  woven  wire. 

Preparation  for  canning.     Select  the  containers  —  either 
glass  jars  or  crockery  —  and  place  them  in  a  convenient 


Fig.  85.     Galvanized  pail  and  wooden  rack.     An 
inexpensive  equipment  for  canning. 

place.  Never  use  old  rubbers.  Buy  new  ones  every  year, 
since  rubbers  deteriorate  from  one  season  to  another.  The 
products  should  be  fresh.  If  possible,  fruits  and  vegetables 
should  be  picked  the  day  they  are  to  be  canned.  Peas 
and  corn,  which  lose  their  flavor  rapidly,  should  be  canned 
if  possible  within  four  hours  after  gathering.  Fit  the  tops 
to  the  jars  carefully  before  beginning.  The  containers 
should  be  washed.  They  should  next  be  placed  in  a  vessel 
of  clean,  cold  water,  and  set  over  a  fire  to  heat.  They  will 
be  hot  and  ready  for  the  fruits  or  vegetables  by  the  time 
these  have  been  prepared  for  packing.  If  glass  lids  are  to 
be  used,  they  may  be  placed  in  the  water  with  the  cans. 
If  screw  tops  are  used,  boil  them  for  fifteen  minutes  in  sepa- 
rate water.  After  selecting  clean,  sound,  fresh  products  for 
canning,  wash  carefully,  trim,  and  cut  into  pieces  if  necessary. 


254 


GARDEN   CROPS 


Steps  in  the  canning  process.  The  cold-pack  method 
consists  of  five  steps:  scalding  or  blanching,  cold  dipping, 
packing,    sterilizing,    and    sealing.      It    is    very   important 

to  observe  the  first 
two  steps  with  all 
vegetables  and  some 
fruits.  In  canning 
berries  and  soft 
fruits  the  first  step  is 
omitted. 

Blanching.  Scald- 
ing or  blanching  in- 
sures thorough  cleans- 
ing  and  removes 
objectionable  odors 
and  flavors,  also  excess 
acids.  The  process 
consists  of  lowering 
the  vegetables  or  fruit 
into  boiling  water  for 
a  short  time  (Fig.  86). 
For  this  purpose  they 
are  placed  in  the  wire 
basket  or  a  piece  of 
cheesecloth.    The 


Fig.    86.       One    process    in    canning. 

Blanching  vegetables  by  putting  them 

in  cheesecloth  and  dipping  them 

in  boiling  water. 


blanching  time  varies  from  one  to  twenty  minutes,  as  shown 
in  the  table  (page  258). 

Spinach  and  other  greens  must  not  be  blanched  in  hot 
water.  They  should  be  scalded  in  steam  so  that  they  may 
better  retain  the  volatile  oils.  To  do  this  place  them  in  a 
steamer  with  a  tightly  fitting  cover,  and  set  it  over  another 


CANNING:    ONE-PERIOD   COLD-PACK   METHOD  255 

vessel  in  which  there  should  be  an  inch  or  two  of  boiling 
water.     The  water  must  not  be  allowed  to  touch  the  greens. 

Cold  dipping.  As  soon  as  the  vegetables  or  fruits  are 
removed  from  the  boiling  water  or  steam,  they  should  be 
dipped  in  cold,  clean  water,  then  removed  quickly  and 
drained.  This  hardens  the  pulp  and  sets  the  coloring 
matter.     Do  not  allow  them  to  stand  in  the  cold  water. 

Packing.  This  step  should  follow  immediately  after  the 
cold  dipping.  Spoilage  of  products  is  sometimes  due  to 
carelessness  in  one  of  these  two  steps.  The  products 
should  be  packed  in  the  containers  as  closely  as  possible. 
Where  fruits  are  intended  for  table  use,  enough  sirup  should 
be  placed  over  them  to  fill  the  jars. 

In  the  case  of  vegetables,  fill  the  can  with  hot  water 
immediately  after  packing,  remembering  that  the  glass 
must  be  warm  when  the  hot  water  is  poured  in  or  it  will 
break.  Add  1  level  teaspoonful  of  salt  to  each  quart  jar 
of  vegetables,  YA  teaspoonful  to  each  pint.  Put  the  rubber 
rings  and  the  scalded  tops  of  the  jars  in  place  and  partly 
seal  the  tops  of  the  cans.  If  the  glass  top  is  used,  pull  only 
the  upper  wire  across  the  cover  to  hold  it  in  place.  If  the 
screw  top  is  used,  tighten  the  lid,  but  not  quite  enough  for 
final  sealing.  When  the  jars  are  ready  place  them  in  the 
sterilizing  apparatus,  which  in  the  meantime  has  been  filled 
with  hot  water. 

Sterilizing.  The  final  application  of  heat  is  known  as 
sterilizing.  The  process  consists  of  boiling  the  packed  cans 
of  fruit  or  vegetables  in  water  (Fig.  90)  for  a  period  deter- 
mined by  the  character  of  the  product  (consult  table,  p.  258). 

The  boiling  water  in  the  sterilizing  outfit  should  be  kept 
1  inch  above  the  tops  of  the  cans  of  fruits  or  vegetables. 


Fig.  87.     Members  of  a  boys'  class  grading  beans  for  canning. 


Fig.  88.     Two  members  of  a  canning  class  sealing  jars. 


CANNING:    ONE-PERIOD   COLD-PACK    METHOD 


257 


This  will  insure  a  sufficient  amount  of  liquid  in  the  cans 
when  they  are  taken  out. 

Sealing.  After  the  termination  of  the  sterilization  period 
the  cans  should  be  lifted  from  the  apparatus  and  sealed 
tightly  at  once  (Figs.  88  and  89). 


Fig.  89.     Scaling  jars  of  fruit  canned  by  the  one-period 
cold -pack  method. 

Set  the  jars  upside  down  in  a  tray  to  cool.  Examine 
them  for  leaks.  If  any  occur  the  covers  should  be  tightened 
until  the  jars  are  air-tight.  Most  products  packed  in  glass 
jars  will  bleach  or  darken  if  exposed  to  light.  It  is  therefore 
best  to  put  the  jars  in  paper  bags  or  wrap  them  in  paper. 

The  following  chart  is  based  upon  government  home- 
canning  work. 


17 


Fruit  and  Vegetable  Canning  Chart 


Fruits  and  vegetables 

Preparations 

Sterilize  in  hot- 
water  bath  outfit 

2I2°F. 

Minutes 

Soft  fruits:    Strawberries, 
blackberries ,  raspberries , 
grapes. 

Grade,  rinse,  stem,  pack  whole; 
add  hot  sirup. 

16 

Sour  fruits1:     Currants, 
gooseberries. 

Stem,  rinse,  blanch  in  hot  water 
i  minute;  dip  quickly  in  cold 
water;     pack    whole,    closely; 
add  hot  sirup. 

12  tO   l6 

Vegetable  greens:    Aspar- 
agus,     spinach,      cauli- 
flower, Brussels  sprouts, 
beet  tops,  Swiss  chard, 
kale,    endive,    green    or 
red  peppers. 

Blanch  in  steam  from   15  to  20 
minutes;  dip  in  cold  water;  cut 
in  convenient  sizes;  pack  tight; 
season  to  taste,  add  salt  and 
hot  water. 

120 

Pumpkin,    squash,    sweet 
potatoes. 

Remove    shell    of   pumpkin    and 
squash;     steam   medium   soft; 
pack  tight.     Steam  sweet  po- 
tatoes;     remove    skin;      pack 
tight. 

I20 

Tomatoes. 

Scald  long  enough  to  loosen  skins ; 
dip  quickly  in  cold  water,  core 
and  skin;  pack  whole;  add  salt 
and   hot  tomato  juice   or  hot 
water. 

22 

Corn. 

Blanch  in  boiling  water  on  cob 
from    5    to    15    minutes;     dip 
quickly    in    cold    water;     cut 
from    cob    with    sharp    knife; 
pack  loosely;  add  salt  and  hot 
water. 

l8o 

Legumes:  Peas,  lima  beans, 
string  beans. 

Cull,    string,    grade;     blanch    5 
minutes  in  boiling  water;  dip 
quickly   in    cold   water;     pack 
whole;   add  salt  and  hot  water. 

180 

Roots:    Beets,  carrots. 

Cleanse   thoroughly;       scald   til] 
skin   is  loose;     dip   quickly  in 
cold     water;      remove     skins; 
pack  whole  or  in   cubes;   add 
salt  and  hot  water. 

90 

Use  same  plan  for  rhubarb  as  suggested  for  currants  and  gooseberries. 


CANNING:   ONE-PERIOD    COLD-PACK   METHOD 


259 


Time  for  sterilizing.  The  time  for  sterilizing  is  based  on 
quart  jars.  For  half- gallon  jars  increase  the  time  30 
minutes;  for  pint  jars,  deduct  5  minutes. 

The  time  given  is  for  fresh  products  at  altitudes  up  to 
1,000  feet  above  sea  level.  For  higher  altitudes  increase 
the  time  10  per  cent  for  each  additional  500  feet. 


Fig.  90.     Here  at  the  right  the  teacher  is  seen  placing  the  rack  in  the 

washboiler,  and  at  the  left,  the  pupil  ready  to  place  the 

filled  jars  in  the  boiler. 

Sirups.  Thin  sirups  may  be  used  to  save  sugar  as 
follows :  1  cup  sugar  to  3  cups  water  and  boil  2  minutes ;  or 
1  cup  corn  sirup,  1  cup  sugar,  and  3  cups  water.  Bring  to 
a  boil  and  pour  over  fruit  in  jars. 

About  iH  cups  sirup  are  required  for  1  quart  of  closely 
packed  uncooked  fruit. 

Corn  sirup  may  be  used  successfully  in  varying  propor- 
tions in  canning,  preserving,  and  jelly-making. 


260 


GARDEN    CROPS 


Fig.  91.     Eight  varieties  of  vegetables  successfully  canned  by  the 
one-period  cold-pack  method. 

Begin  to  calculate  the  time  from  the  moment  the  water 
in  the  canner  reaches  the  boiling  point. 


STUDY    OUTLINE 

1.  What  equipment  is  needed  in  canning  by  the  one-period  cold- 
pack  method? 

2.  How  many  steps  are  necessary  in  canning  by  this  method? 

3.  Describe  each  step. 

4.  Give  work  required  in  canning  one  soft  fruit,  one  sour  fruit,  one 
vegetable  used  for  greens,  sweet  potatoes,  tomatoes,  corn,  one  legume, 
and  one  root  crop. 

HOME    AND    COMMUNITY    WORK 

Visit  ten  families  in  your  neighborhood  and  be  prepared  to  answer 
the  following: 

1.  How  many  use  the  one-period  cold-pack  method  of  canning? 

2.  What  fruits  and  vegetables  were  canned  by  this  method? 

3.  What  other  methods  were  used  that  were  successful? 


CHAPTER   LXXII 
PRESERVING   AND   JELLY   MAKING 

Preserves.  The  small  fruits,  including  strawberries, 
raspberries,  blackberries,  gooseberries,  currants,  and  grapes, 
may  be  made  into  preserves  by  cooking  with  sugar  until 
quite  thick  and  then  put  in  jars  and  sealed  while  hot.  The 
proportion  of  sugar  required  varies  according  to  the  acidity 
of  the  fruit. 

The  fruits  must  not  be  overripe  when  preserved.  Care 
must  be  used  in  handling  if  the  fruit  is  to  remain  whole. 
Use  a  shallow  kettle  when  making  the  preserves,  because 
a  large  kettle  and  a  heavy  mass  of  fruit  would  destroy  the 
shape  of  the  individual  berries,  currants,  or  grapes. 

Jelly.  Fruit  juice  containing  both  pectin  and  acid  can 
be  made  into  jelly.  Pectin  is  a  substance  in  the  fruit  which 
is  soluble  in  hot  water  and  which  when  cooked  with  sugar 
and  acid  has,  after  cooling,  the  proper  consistency  of  jelly. 

The  proportion  of  sugar  to  juice  depends  on  the  quantity 
of  pectin  contained  in  the  fruit  juice.  A  larger  proportion 
of  sugar  can  be  used  with  a  juice  rich  in  pectin  than  with 
one  poor  in  pectin.  When  too  much  sugar  is  used  the  juice 
will  form  a  sirup  and  will  not  jelly. 

Overripe  fruit  contains  too  little  pectin,  for  this  reason 
it  is  better  to  select  for  jelly  making  fruit  that  is  underripe. 

The  fruits  mentioned  in  this  chapter,  with  the  exception 
of  strawberries,  are  ideal  for  jelly  making,  because  they 
contain  pectin  and  acid  in  sufficient  quantities.  Straw- 
berries have  acidity,  but  are  lacking  in  pectin.     The  pectin, 

261 


262 


GARDEN   CROPS 


however,  may  be  supplied  by  the  addition  of  juice  from 
underripe  grapes  or  crab  apples.  For  the  best  results 
grapes  and  gooseberries  should  be  used  before  they  are 
quite  ripe. 

Directions  for  making  jelly.  Select  fruit  in  good  condi- 
tion for  jelly  making,  which  means  that  it  must  be  firm  and 
not  too  ripe.  Wash  it  and  remove  the  stems.  Put  in  a 
saucepan  and  cover  with  water.     Cook  slowly  until  very 

soft.  Pour  into  a  thick 
muslin  bag  to  drain  (Fig. 
92).  When  the  juice  has 
drained  from  the  pulp  meas- 
ure it.  The  sugar  must 
also  be  measured  and  the 
following  proportions  may 
be  used:  For  1  cup  currant 
juice,  green  gooseberry,  or 
underripe  grape  juice,  use  1 
cup  sugar.  For  1  cup  rasp- 
berry or  blackberry  juice 
use  %  cup  sugar. 

Pour  the  juice  in  a  pan 
and  when  it  begins  to  boil 
add  sugar  in  the  above  pro- 
portions.    Boil  rapidly. 

The  jelly  poin:  is  reached 
when  two  drops  of  juice  run 

together    and    fall    as    one 
A  jelly  strainer.  „  °         .  .  i         , 

from   the   side   01  a  spoon. 

When  the  juice  reaches  this  point  pour  the  hot  jelly  into 

sterilized  glasses  and  cool  as  rapidly  as  possible. 


PRESERVING  AND  JELLY  MAKING  263 

Storing  the  jelly.  When  the  jelly  is  cold  pour  a  layer  of 
hot  paraffin  over  the  surface.  This  paraffin  will  kill  all 
germs  which  may  have  fallen  on  the  surface  of  the  jelly 
and  will  also  keep  other  germs  from  entering.  Cover  glasses 
with  tin  or  glass  covers  or  paper  and  place  in  a  clean  dry 
place. 

STUDY    OUTLINE 
i.  How  are  preserves  made? 

2.  How  is  jelly  made? 

3.  Name  some  of  the  most  important  points  to  be  observed  in  making 
preserves  and  jelly. 


HOME    AND    COMMUNITY    WORK 

1.  What  fruits  are  used  for  making  jelly  and  preserves  in  your  neigh- 
borhood ? 

2.  What  methods  are  usually  practiced? 

/ 


CHAPTER   LXXIII 
DRYING 

Some  fruits  and  vegetables  can  be  preserved  by  drying 
as  well  as  by  canning,  and  drying  has  certain  advantages 
which  make  it  desirable  to  use  this  method  whenever 
possible.     Some  of  the  advantages  are  the  following: 

i.  Bulk  is  decreased,  ioo  pounds  of  raw  food  weighing 
only  10  pounds  when  dried. 

2.  Less  space  is  required  for  storage. 

3.  No  sugar  is  required. 

4.  Fewer  and  less  expensive  containers  are  needed. 

5.  Products  can  be  kept  for  an  indefinite  period. 
Methods    of    drying.     Well-known    methods    of    drying 

include  drying  by  exposure  to  the  sun  (Fig.  84),  by  artificial 
heat  over  the  stove  (Fig.  95),  by  air  currents  as  with  the 
electric  fan  (Fig.  96) ,  or  by  combining  some  or  all  of  these  ways. 

In  its  simplest  form  drying  means  merely  the  loss  by 
evaporation  of  the  moisture  contained  in  freshly  cut  fruits 
and  vegetables. 

Selection  and  preparation  of  food.  Select  young  tender 
vegetables  and  fresh  fruit  for  drying.  See  that  the  fruit 
is  neither  overripe  nor  underripe.  Prepare  and  dry  very 
soon  after  gathering. 

Cut  vegetables  and  fruits  into  slices  or  shred  them  for 
drying  (Fig.  93).     Berries  are  dried  whole. 

Most  vegetables  and  fruits  may  be  dried,  but  it  is  less 
expensive  and  requires  less  trouble  to  store  some  vegetables 
than  to  dry  them. 

264 


DRYING 


265 


Sweet  corn,  lima  beans,  string  beans  (Fig.  94),  tomatoes, 
spinach,  carrots,  and  Brussels  sprouts  are  more  commonly 


Fig.  93.     Drying  apples.     The  apples  are  spread  on  a  wire  screen 
and  exposed  to  I  he  sun. 

dried.     For    information    on    storing     vegetables     consult 
Chapters  LXXV  to  LXXIX. 

All  foods  should  be  thoroughly  washed  and  cleaned  before 
drying.  Vegetables  should  be  blanched  and  cold-dipped 
for  successful  drying,  but  this  is  not  necessary  for  fruits. 
The  time  required  for  blanching  vegetables  that  are  to  be 
dried  is  about  the  same  as  for  canning.  The  blanching 
of  vegetables  gives  them  a  more  thorough  cleansing,  removes 
objectionable  odors,  softens  the  fibers  and  makes  possible 
a  quicker  and  more  uniform  evaporation  of  moisture. 


266 


GARDEN    CROPS 


Preliminary  steps  in  drying  food.     In  preparing  food  for 
drying  there  are  eight  steps  to  be  taken : 

i.   Gather  the  food  while  in  proper  condition. 

2.  Sort  it  to  get  the  best  food. 

3.  Wash  and  cleanse  thoroughly. 

4.  Blanch,  using  time  suggested  in  table  under  canning. 

5.  Dip  in  cold  water. 

6.  Drain  off  water. 

7.  Cut  in  small  pieces  or  shred. 

8.  Spread  out  thin  on  boards  or  tables. 

Drying  food  in  the  sun.     When  drying  food  in  the  sun 
select  a  bright  sunshiny  day  when  there  is  a  good  breeze. 


Fig.  94.     Preserving  the  surplus  bean  supply  by  drying. 

Fruit  dries  better  on  a  hot  windy  day  than  on  a  hot  still 
day.     The  food  to  be  dried  should  be  spread  out  thin  on 


DRYING 


267 


trays  that  are  exposed  to  the  sun  and  breeze  through  the 
entire  day.  Bring  food  indoors  before  sunset  as  well  as  on 
damp  or  rainy  days. 
Drying  food  by 
artificial  heat.  When 
food  is  to  be  dried 
over  the  cookstove 
use  an  apparatus  sim- 
ilar to  the  one  shown 
in  the  illustration 
(Fig.  95).  Expose  to 
a  gentle  heat  at  first, 
increasing  the  tem- 
perature to  1500  F. 
When  drying  in  an 
oven,  keep  the  door 
partly  open  to  allow 
the  moisture  to  es- 
cape and  prevent 
overheating  the  prod- 
uct.  Shelves  or 
trays  may  be  used 
over  the  top  of  the 
stove  (Fig.  96). 


Fig.  95.     A  home-made  drier  constructed 
of  lath  and  wire  netting. 


The  electric  fan  is  a  common  means  of  drying  vegetables 
and  fruits  by  air.  Place  trays  one  above  the  other  in  front 
of  the  fan  (Fig.  96). 

Test  for  dried  products.  Dried  products  should  have  a 
leathery  and  pliable  feeling  when  pressed  in  the  hand.  They 
should  not  rattle  or  crack  when  poured  together. 


268 


GARDEN  CROPS 


Preparing  dried  food  for  use.  In  preparing  dried  food 
for  the  table  the  object  is  to  replace  the  water  lost  by  evap- 
oration and  to  develop  flavor.  To  do  this  soak  the  food 
in  cold  water  over  night  and  cook  slowly.  Each  year  more 
vegetables  and  fruits  should  be  dried  in  order  that  a  greater 
supply  of  food  may  be  preserved  for  the  use  of  the  family. 
The  health  of  the  family  will  be  improved  if  an  ample 
supply  of  fruits  and  vegetables  are  preserved  for  winter  use. 


Fig.  96.     Two  devices  for  drying.     The  drier  at  the  right  is  set  on  top  of 

the  kitchen  stove,  where  the  hot  air  rises  through  the  trays.     The 

electric  fan  dries  the  food  in  the  trays  at  the  left. 


STUDY    OUTLINE 


1.  Give  five  reasons  for  drying  foods. 

2.  Describe  three  methods  of  drying  food. 

3.  Why  should  vegetables  be  blanched  before  drying: 

4.  Give  eight  necessary  steps  in  the  drying  of  food. 

5.  Explain  the  process  of  drying  food  in  the  sun. 

6.  Explain  drying  by  artificial  heat. 

7.  Give  a  test  for  properly  dried  food. 

8.  How  are  dried  foods  prepared  for  table  use? 

9.  Why  should  more  food  be  dried  each  year" 


CHAPTER   LXXIV 
FERMENTATION   AND    SALTING 

Preserving  food  by  fermentation  and  salting  is  a  very 
common  practice  in  Europe,  but  in  America  the  method 
is  not  extensively  used  because  of  our  ability  to  procure 
fresh  vegetables  at  almost  any  season  of  the  year.  Perhaps 
sauerkraut  and  salt  pickles  are  the  most  important  foods 
that  we  preserve  in  this  way. 

Methods.  There  are  three  methods  used  in  preserving 
foods  by  salting:  (i)  Fermentation  with  dry  salting;  (2) 
fermentation  in  brine;  and  (3)  salting  without  fermen- 
tation. 

Equipment.  The  equipment  should  consist  of  scales  and 
a  measure;  water-tight  containers,  not  of  metal  but  stone 
crocks  or  glass  jars;  a  supply  of  salt;  clean  white  cheesecloth 
for  covering  the  material  after  packing  in  the  container; 
a  board  (not  of  yellow  or  pitch  pine)  cut  the  shape  of  the 
container  and  made  to  fit  down  as  closely  as  possible  on  top 
of  the  cheesecloth;  or  a  plate  for  this  purpose  if  the  con- 
tainer is  small;  one  or  more  clean  stones  to  place  on  top 
of  the  board  or  plate  to  serve  as  weight  upon  the  contents. 
To  insure  greater  protection  against  mold,  paraffin  is  some- 
times poured  over  the  liquid  in  the  container  after  fer- 
mentation has  ceased.  The  vital  factor  in  preserving  is 
the  lactic  acid  which  develops  in  fermentation. 

Fermentation  with  dry  salting.  Cabbage  (sauerkraut), 
string  beans,  and  turnips  are  the  most  common  vegetables 
preserved  by  this  method. 

269 


270  GARDEN    CROPS 

In  preparing  sauerkraut  cut  cabbage  fine  and  place  it  in 
a  crock  or  other  container.  Remove  the  outside  leaves  from 
mature,  sound,  clean  heads  and  pack  immediately  after 
cutting.  Mix  the  cut  cabbage  with  salt  by  first  putting  a 
layer  of  salt  in  the  bottom  of  the  container,  then  three  or 
four  inches  of  cabbage,  then  a  layer  of  salt,  and  so  on  until 
the  container  is  full  or  the  cabbage  all  used.  The  salt 
should  be  distributed  evenly  through  the  cabbage  and  be 
used  at  the  rate  of   i   pound  for  40  pounds  of  cabbage. 

Pack  the  cabbage  firmly  by  pounding  it  lightly  with 
a  wooden  mallet  after  the  addition  of  each  layer.  When 
the  container  is  full,  sprinkle  salt  on  the  top  layer  of  cabbage 
and  cover  with  two  thicknesses  of  cheesecloth,  being  careful 
to  tuck  the  cloth  down  at  the  sides.  Place  upon  the  cloth 
the  board  cover  or  plate  that  exactly  fits  inside  the  con- 
tainer. On  the  board  or  plate  put  a  stone  or  clean  bricks, 
the  size  of  the  weight  depending  upon  the  quantity  of 
material  being  preserved.  For  a  5 -gallon  crock  use  a 
10-pound  weight.  This  weight  together  with  the  action  of 
the  salt  should  be  sufficient  to  extract  the  juices  and  form  a 
brine  which  should  cover  the  top  in  twenty-four  hours.  If 
the  brine  does  not  rise  above  the  cover  in  that  time  add 
more  weight  on  the  board.  Be  sure  that  the  weight  is  suf- 
ficient to  keep  the  kraut  beneath  the  surface  of  the  liquid. 

After  the  container  is  packed  set  it  in  a  warm  room  for 
ten  days  or  two  weeks.  In  a  cellar  or  cool  room  it  will  take 
from  three  to  five  weeks  to  ferment.  In  other  words,  the 
rate  of  fermentation  depends  principally  upon  the  tem- 
perature. After  the  sauerkraut  begins  to  ferment  a  film 
appears  which  should  be  skimmed  off.  As  fermentation 
continues  bubbles  will  rise  to  the   surface  of  the  liquid. 


FERMENTATION   AND   SALTING  271 

If  when  the  side  of  the  container  is  tapped  gently  no  more 
bubbles  rise,  then  the  sauerkraut  has  stopped  fermenting 
and  is  ready  for  use.  Before  setting  away  in  storage  remove 
any  scum  that  has  formed  and  cover  over  with  hot  paraffin 
until  it  makes  a  layer  Y±  to  Yi  inch  thick.  This  paraffin  is 
used  to  prevent  the  formation  of  scum  if  the  weather  is 
warm  or  if  the  storage  room  is  not  well  cooled.  When 
kraut  is  made  in  the  fall  and  stored  in  a  cool  place  the  addi- 
tion of  paraffin  is  not  necessary. 

String  beans  and  turnips  may  be  pickled  in  the  same  way. 
Select  young  vegetables.  Remove  the  tip  ends  of  string 
beans  and  either  break  or  leave  whole.  Pare  and  slice 
turnips  and  place  in  container. 

Fermentation  in  brine.  Cucumbers,  string  beans,  green 
tomatoes,  corn,  beets,  and  green  peas  do  not  contain  suffi- 
cient water  for  a  good  brine  when  salt  alone  is  used.  For 
such  vegetables  a  previously  prepared  weak  brine  made  of 
1  gallon  of  water,  Y2  pint  of  vinegar,  and  Y±  cup  of  salt  must 
be  added.  The  quantity  of  brine  needed  to  cover  the  vege- 
tables that  have  been  placed  in  the  container  will  be  one- 
half  the  volume  of  the  material  to  be  fermented.  The 
vegetables  must  be  washed  clean  and  drained  before  placing 
them  in  the  crock.  Set  the  filled  vessel  in  a  moderately 
warm  room  to  ferment.  When  fermentation  is  complete 
place  in  a  cool  cellar  or  room  and  cover  the  surface  in  the 
same  way  as  for  kraut. 

Salting  without  fermentation.  By  this  method  enough 
salt  is  used  to  prevent  fermentation  or  the  growth  of  yeast 
or  mold.  It  is  used  for  preserving  cucumbers,  string  beans, 
greens  for  winter  use,  green  peas,  and  corn. 

First  wash,  drain,  and  weigh  the  vegetables.     Use  enough 


272  GARDEN    CROPS 

salt  to  equal  one-fourth  of  the  weight  of  the  material  to  be 
preserved.  Put  a  i-ineh  layer  of  vegetables  on  the  bottom 
of  the  container.  Cover  this  layer  with  salt.  Continue 
with  alternate  layers  of  vegetables  and  salt  until  the  crock 
or  container  is  rilled.  Cover  the  whole  as  suggested  for 
kraut. 

If  after  twenty-four  hours  the  salt  and  the  pressure  of 
the  weight  have  not  extracted  sufficient  liquid  to  cover  the 
vegetables  in  the  crock,  it  will  be  necessary  to  add  brine. 
This  should  be  made  by  using  i  pound  of  salt  to  2  quarts  of 
water.  Pour  enough  of  this  strong  brine  into  the  container 
to  cover  completely  the  top  layer  of  vegetables.  Slight 
bubbling  may  be  noted  at  first  but  it  will  soon  stop  and  the 
container  may  be  set  aside  until  the  vegetables  are  to  be 
used.  Hot  paraffin  may  be  poured  over  the  surface  as  was 
suggested  for  kraut. 

How  to  serve  salted  vegetables.  Vegetables  preserved 
by  salting  may  be  served  as  they  are,  or  they  may  be 
freshened  by  soaking  in  clear  water  and  cooked  as  fresh 
vegetables. 

Pickling.  Tomatoes,  peppers,  cauliflower,  onions,  and 
cucumbers  are  some  of  the  vegetables  that  may  be  preserved 
by  vinegar  pickling,  the  acetic  acid  in  the  vinegar  acting  as 
a  preservative  by  preventing  the  growth  of  bacteria  or 
molds.  Any  one  of  these  vegetables  or  combinations  of 
two  or  more,  seasoned  with  salt,  sugar,  vinegar,  and  spices 
of  different  kinds,  are  used  in  making  pickles,  such  as  catsup, 
chili  sauce,  chow-chow,  tomato  relish,  cucumber  pickles, 
green  tomato  pickles,  mustard  pickles,  piccalilli,  table  relish, 
and  pickled  onions. 

Soak  the  vegetables  over  night  in  a  brine,  made  of  1  cup 


FERMENTATION   AND   SALTING  273 

salt  and  1  quart  water.  This  brine  aids  in  removing  the 
water  in  the  vegetables  which  if  retained  would  weaken 
the  vinegar  used  in  pickling. 


STUDY    OUTLINE 

1.  How  is  sauerkraut  made? 

2.  What  other  vegetables  than  cabbage  may  be  preserved  by  fermen- 
tation with  salting? 

3.  What  vegetables  are  preserved  by  the  use  of   brine? 

4.  Describe  this  process. 

5.  Describe  the  process  of  salting  without  fermentation. 

6.  What  vegetables  are  preserved  by  this  process? 

7.  What  vegetables  and  vegetable  combinations  are  used  in  making 
pickles? 

8.  What  action  takes  place  in  pickling  that  prevents  the  growth  of 
bacteria  and  molds? 

9.  What  prevents  the  weakening  of  vinegar  that  is  used  in  pickling? 

HOME    AND    COMMUNITY    WORK 

1.  What  vegetables  are  preserved  in  your  community  by  fermentation 
and  salting? 

2.  Which  one  of  the  plans  described  in  this  chapter  is  most  commonly 
used  in  your  neighborhood? 


18 


CHAPTER   LXXV 
STORING  VEGETABLES 

Properly  planned  and  cared  for,  the  home  garden  will 
furnish  an  ample  supply  of  vegetables  for  the  entire  year. 
The  gardener  must  plan  not  only  for  summer  but  also  for 
fall,  winter,  and  early  spring.  He  must  give  attention  to 
the  preservation  of  his  vegetables  as  well  as  to  the  produc- 
tion of  his  crop. 

Storage  plans.  Because  of  the  different  character  of  the 
several  vegetables,  the  plans  for  storing  them  must  be 
different.  For  convenience  in  discussion  the  crops  will 
be  divided  into  four  groups  as  follows : 

i.  Vegetables  that  require  cool,  moist  conditions  with 
little  circulation  of  air.  The  crops  of  this  group  include 
potatoes,  carrots,  beets,  turnips  and  rutabagas,  winter 
radishes,  parsnips,  and  cabbages.  These  crops  are  stored 
in  cellars  and  pits. 

2.  Vegetables  that  require  cool,  moist  conditions  with  free 
circulation  of  air.  They  include  celery,  Brussels  sprouts, 
kohl-rabi,  endive,  leeks,  and  parsley.  These  crops  are 
stored  in  cold  frames  or  on  the  cellar  floor. 

3.  Vegetables  that  require  cool,  dry  conditions  with  free 
circulation  of  air.  The  onion  is  the  best  example  of  this 
class.     The  crops  of  this  group  are  stored  in  cool  rooms. 

4.  Vegetables  that  require  warm,  dry  conditions  with  free 
circulation  of  air.  These  crops  include  sweet  potatoes, 
squash,  and  pumpkin.  The  vegetables  of  this  group  are 
stored  in  warm  rooms. 

274 


STORING   VEGETABLES  275 

Other  methods  of  preserving  garden  crops  besides  storage 
have  already  been  thoroughly  discussed.  They  include 
canning,  preserving,  jelly-making,  drying,  fermenting,  and 
salting.  Some  of  the  crops  preserved  in  these  ways  are 
asparagus,  beans,  peas,  beets,  cabbage,  cauliflower,  chard, 
corn,  cucumbers,  onions  (for  pickling),  peppers,  small  fruits, 
rhubarb,  squash,  pumpkin,  sweet  potatoes,  and  tomatoes. 
In  the  preceding  four  chapters  (LXXI-LXXIV)  we  have 
been  discussing  these  methods  of  preserving. 

Thus  we  see  that  under  proper  management  we  can 
provide  for  the  preservation  of  nearly  all  of  our  vegetable 
and  small-fruit  crops. 

Every  gardener  should  take  note  of  this  fact  early  in 
the  season  and  see  that  nothing  is  allowed  to  waste  that 
the  family  can  use  through  the  winter  and  spring  months. 

STUDY    OUTLINE 

1.  Name  four  plans  for  storing  vegetables. 

2.  What  crops  are  stored  by  each  plan? 

HOME    AND    COMMUNITY    WORK 

1.  What  storage  methods  are  used  in  your  community? 

2.  Which  ones  have  proved  most  satisfactory? 


CHAPTER  LXXVI 
STORING  VEGETABLES  IN  CELLARS 

The  vegetables  in  group  i — potatoes,  carrots,  beets, 
turnips,  rutabagas,  winter  radishes,  parsnips,  and  cabbages 
—  require  moist  conditions  with  little  circulation  of  air  for 
their  successful  storage.  All  vegetables  that  are  to  be 
stored  should  be  harvested  when  the  ground  is  dry.  They 
should  also  be  allowed  to  remain  on  the  dry  ground  for  at 
least  ten  hours  in  order  that  the  surface  moisture  on  them 
will  have  time  to  evaporate.  All  imperfect  or  bruised  vege- 
tables should  be  taken  out  for  immediate  family  use.  Only 
sound  specimens  should  be  stored. 

Before  putting  beets,  turnips,  rutabages,  carrots,  winter 
radishes,  and  parsnips  in  storage,  cut  off  the  tops,  leaving 
a  stub  one  or  two  inches  long  to  prevent  the  vegetable 
from  bleeding  or  drying  out. 

The  crops  of  this  group  can  be  successfully  stored  either 
in  a  cool  cellar  or  a  well-drained  outdoor  storage  pit.  An 
outdoor  storage  cellar  built  in  a  side  hill  is  frequently  used 
by  farmers  and  truck  growers,  but  is  not  necessary  for  the 
ordinary  home  gardener. 

Cellar  storage  of  this  group  of  vegetables  will  be  discussed 
in  this  chapter;  outside  pit  storage  of  this  group  will  be 
taken  up  in  the  following  chapter. 

Importance  of  cellar  storage.  The  larger  part  of  our 
vegetable  crops  are  stored  in  the  cellars  of  homes.  For 
this  reason  too  much  importance  cannot  be  attached  to 
this  method  of  storing. 

276 


STORING   VEGETABLES    IN    CELLARS  277 

In  storing  cabbage  pull  the  plant  from  the  soil  so  as  to 
retain  most  of  its  roots.  Remove  part  of  the  leaves  before 
storing.  If  the  cellar  floor  is  cemented,  cover  it  with  two 
inches  of  soil.  Put  the  cabbage  heads  upon  the  floor  with 
roots  upward,  and  cover  the  heads  with  moist  soil.  If 
preferred,  the  cabbages  may  be  stored  in  boxes  or  barrels. 
To  prevent  their  drying  out  and  wilting,  the  heads  should 
be  completely  surrounded  by  4  to  6  inches  of  moist  soil. 
To  prevent  heating,  which  decreases  the  food  value  of 
cabbage,  avoid  using  containers  that  are  larger  than 
barrels. 

If  surrounded  with  moist  earth  or  slightly  damp  sand 
all  crops  of  this  group,  with  the  exception  of  potatoes,  can 
be  stored  in  the  cellar  in  boxes  or  barrels.  The  moist 
earth  prevents  the  roots  from  drying  out  and  at  the  same 
time  absorbs  any  disagreeable  odor  that  may  result  from 
decaying  roots. 

The  storage  of  potatoes  in  indoor  cellars.  Potatoes 
should  be  dug  during  dry  weather.  They  should  be  left 
along  the  rows  for  a  few  hours  after  digging.  This  will 
permit  them  to  dry  out  before  storing.  Care  should  be 
taken  to  see  that  no  bruised  or  cut  potatoes  are  placed  in 
storage.  The  imperfect  specimens  should  be  used  at  once 
before  they  decay.  Potatoes  should  also  be  graded  and 
those  of  the  same  size  placed  by  themselves  in  separate 
containers. 

Important  factors  to  be  considered  in  storing  potatoes 
are  proper  ventilation,  avoiding  exposure  to  strong  light, 
protection  from  extreme  changes  in  temperature,  proper 
moisture,  the  size  of  the  containers,  and  the  condition 
and  types  of  the  potatoes  stored. 


278  GARDEN   CROPS 

The  containers  used  for  storing  potatoes  should  be  crates, 
or  ventilated  boxes  or  barrels.  This  will  permit  a  free 
circulation  of  air.  Boxes  and  barrels  may  be  ventilated 
by  boring  holes  in  the  sides  and  ends.  Small  containers 
are  better  than  large  ones  because  the  potatoes  are  less 
liable  to  heat.  Boxes  or  crates  about  30  inches  long,  18 
inches  wide,  and  12  to  18  inches  deep  are  satisfactory.  All 
containers  should  be  set  upon  slats  to  raise  them  a  slight 
distance  from  the  floor  and  thus  permit  the  air  to  circulate 
around  them. 

If  the  cellar  is  a  very  dry  one  air  should  be  prevented 
from  circulating  too  freely  among  the  stored  vegetables. 
This  is  done  by  lining  the  containers  with  paper  and 
placing  paper  over  the  tops.  Too  much  dry  air  causes 
potatoes  to  wither. 

Potatoes  should  not  be  stored  in  a  room  containing  a 
furnace  or  steam  pipes.  A  better  plan  is  to  use  a  room  ad- 
joining the  furnace  room.  In  moderate  weather  this  room 
will  not  be  too  warm,  and  in  long  continued  zero  weather 
the  door  between  the  storage  room  and  the  furnace  room 
can  be  opened  occasionally  to  keep  the  temperature  of  the 
storage  room  about  4o°F. 

Before  storing  see  that  the  potatoes  are  in  as  clean  a 
condition  as  possible.  All  sprouts  should  be  removed 
from  the  tubers  as  fast  as  they  appear.  The  containers 
should  be  examined  occasionally  and  all  decaying  potatoes 
removed. 

Temperature  for  root  cellars.  A  root  cellar  should  be 
kept  at  as  nearly  a  uniform  temperature  as  possible.  The 
temperature  should  not  fall  below  freezing  (320)  nor  be 
warmer  than  500. 


STORING   VEGETABLES   IN   CELLARS  279 

STUDY    OUTLINE 

1.  What  vegetables  are  stored  in  indoor  cellars? 

2.  Tell  how  they  are  stored  for  winter. 

3.  How  should  potatoes  be  harvested? 

4.  What  plan  of  storing  potatoes  is  used  by  most  families? 

5.  Describe  the  method  of  storing  potatoes  in  indoor  cellars. 

HOME    AND    COMMUNITY    WORK 
Visit  six  persons  in  your  community  who  have  now  or  recently  have 
had  potatoes  in  storage.     Be  prepared  to  answer  the  following  questions: 

1.  How  many  store  in  indoor  cellars? 

2.  How  many  use  other  plans  of  storing  potatoes? 

3.  Which  is  most  satisfactory? 


CHAPTER   LXXVII 
STORING   VEGETABLES   IN   PITS 

The  vegetables  of  group  i  may  also  be  stored  in  out- 
side pits.  They  include  potatoes,  carrots,  beets,  turnips, 
rutabagas,  winter  radishes,  parsnips,  and  cabbages. 

A  suitable  site  for  the  pit.  The  storage  pit  should  be 
situated  in  a  well-drained  location  such  as  is  often  found 
on  a  gentle  slope,  or  hillside.  If  such  a  site  cannot  be  found 
and  it  becomes  necessary  to  locate  the  pit  in  a  less  favorable 
place,  then  a  slight  elevation  should  be  made  by  throwing 
up  the  soil  on  the  spot  where  the  bottom  of  the  pit  is  to  be. 
This  will  slightly  elevate  the  pit  above  the  surrounding 
ground  level  and  insure  better  drainage.  Trenches  15  to 
24  inches  wide  and  8  to  12  inches  deep  should  be  made  on 
both  sides  of  the  pit.  The  trenches  should  be  at  least 
6  inches  lower  than  the  bottom  of  the  pit,  so  as  to  carry 
away  the  surplus  water. 

Preparing  and  filling  the  pit.  The  pit  should  be  made  in 
the  shape  of  a  mound  (Fig.  97).  First  remove  a  few  inches 
of  earth.  Line  the  bottom  with  leaves  or  straw.  Place 
any  of  the  vegetables  of  the  group,  except  cabbage,  in  a 
pile  in  the  form  of  a  mound.  The  pile  can  be  about  4  feet 
wide,  3  feet  high,  and  long  enough  to  include  the  supply 
of  vegetables  to  be  stored.  Cover  the  pile  with  2  or  3  inches 
of  straw  or  leaves.  Over  this  place-  3  or  4  inches  of  earth. 
As  cold  weather  increases  add  more  covering,  using  first  a 
layer  of  straw  then  a  layer  of  earth.  In  latitudes  where 
the    temperature    continues    for    some    time    below    zero, 

280 


STORING   VEGETABLES   IN    PITS 


281 


the  covering  should  be  increased  to  12  or  15  inches.  If  the 
cold  weather  continues  for  long  periods,  corn  stalks  or 
stable  fertilizer  may  be  placed  over  the  outer  layer. 

How  to  keep  vegetables  from  heating.  To  prevent 
vegetables  from  heating  after  storing,  nail  four  6-inch 
boards  together  so  as  to  form  a  rectangular  flue.  This  flue 
should  extend  from  the  center  of  the  pile  of  vegetables  up 
through  the  layers  of  earth  and  straw  and  about  6  inches 


Fig.  97.     A  cross  section  of  a  storage  pit.     Notice  the  ventilating  flue 
and  the  arrangement  of  the  potatoes,  straw,  and  earth. 

above  the  top  of  the  outer  layer  of  earth.  Bore  holes  in  the 
sides  of  the  flue  (Fig.  97).  This  will  aid  ventilation.  If 
the  pile  is  long  place  flues  every  6  feet.  These  may  be 
withdrawn  after  continued  cold  weather  arrives.  Several 
small  storage  pits  are  better  than  one  large  one.  The  soil 
on  top  of  the  pit  should  be  packed  firm  to  help  carry  off 
the  water. 

Removing  vegetables  from  pits.  When  some  of  the 
vegetables  are  needed  for  the  household  open  the  pit  at  the 
end.     First  remove  the  layer  of  straw,  stalks,  or  top  cover. 


282  GARDEN   CROPS 

After  this  has  been  done  dig  down  in  the  soil  with  a  shovel, 
pick,  or  spade,  and  make  a  small  opening  reaching  to  the 
pile  of  vegetables.  Then  remove  a  supply  sufficient  for  a 
week  or  two.  Place  them  in  the  house  or  cellar  where  they 
will  not  freeze  before  they  are  used.  Do  not  leave  the  pit 
open  too  long.  After  taking  out  the  vegetables,  fill  the 
opening  tightly  with  straw,  manure,  and  earth.  Replace 
the  layers  of  straw  and  earth  alternately  as  before,  until 
there  is  enough  covering  to  prevent  the  vegetables  from 
freezing. 

Storing  cabbages  in  pits.  Cabbages  may  be  stored  in 
pits  in  two  ways: 

i.  Pull  the  cabbages  from  the  ground,  root  and  all.  Re- 
move a  few  of  the  outer  leaves.  Place  3  rows  of  cabbages 
in  the  pit  with  heads  down.  Above  these  place  2  more 
rows,  heads  down.  Pack  tightly  together.  Over  the 
entire  pile  spread  6  to  8  inches  of  soil.  Only  a  small  quan- 
tity of  top  covering  is  necessary  until  very  cold  weather 
sets  in,  because  freezing  slightly  will  not  result  in  much 
injury  to  cabbages. 

2.  Set  the  cabbages  in  the  pit  root  down.  Cover  the 
roots  with  earth.  Build  a  frame  inside  of  the  pit  as  follows: 
Drive  a  stake  into  the  soil  at  each  of  the  four  corners  and 
nail  boards  to  these  stakes.  Bank  the  soil  on  the  outside 
of  these  boards.  Place  poles  or  boards  on  top  of  the 
enclosure  thus  formed.  Above  these  spread  straw,  corn 
fodder,  or  hay,  increasing  the  amount  as  the  cold  weather 
continues.  At  one  end  of  the  pit  provide  an  opening 
through  which  the  heads  may  be  removed. 

When  the  heads  are  cut,  the  roots  should  be  left  in  their 
places  covered  with  earth.     When  spring  comes  they  will 


STORING   VEGETABLES   IN   PITS  2S3 

sprout  and  supply  the  family  with  greens.     As  the  spring 
weather  comes  on,  gradually  remove  the  covering. 

Cabbage  is  a  valuable  food  for  table  use  and  will  also 
furnish  excellent  winter  and  spring  food  for  the  hens.  For 
this  reason  every  family  should  arrange  to  store  a  sufficient 
supply  for  winter  use. 


STUDY    OUTLINE 

1.  What  points  should  be  observed  in  selecting  a  site  for  a  storage  pit? 

2.  Describe  the  preparing  and  filling  of  the  pit. 

3.  How  may  heating  in  pits  be  avoided? 

4.  How  are  vegetables  removed  from  pits? 

5.  Give  two  methods  of  storing  cabbages  in  pits. 


HOME    AND    COMMUNITY    WORK 

1.  Have  any  gardeners  in  your  community  made  use  of  outdoor  storage 
pits? 

2.  If  so,  what  crops  did  they  store  in  these  pits? 

3.  Had  they  provided  any  means  to  prevent  heating  in  the  pits? 

4.  Which  plan  do  they  use  for  storing  cabbages? 


CHAPTER   LXXVIII 
STORING  VEGETABLES  IN  COLD  FRAMES 

Celery,  Brussels  sprouts,  kohl-rabi,  endive,  leeks,  and 
parsley,  vegetables  of  group  2,  require  cool  moist  conditions 
with  free  circulation  of  air.  These  conditions  may  be  met 
by  storing  in  a  cold  frame  or  on  the  floor  of  an  indoor 
cellar. 

How  to  store  in  cold  frames.  Celery  should  be  so  dug 
that  a  considerable  amount  of  soil  will  cling  to  the  roots. 
Set  the  plants  with  soil  attached  in  a  cold  frame  or  in  moist 
soil,  on  the  cellar  floor  or  in  a  box  in  the  cellar.  Moisten 
the  soil  on  the  roots  occasionally  but  be  sure  that  none  of 
the  water  falls  upon  the  leaves  or  stems.  The  other  vege- 
tables of  this  group  may  be  stored  in  a  similar  manner.  If 
a  cold  frame  is  used  it  should  be  covered  with  a  glass  sash. 
The  sides  of  the  frame  should  also  be  banked  with  earth 
to  keep  the  interior  warm.  In  the  North  during  the  coldest 
weather  cover  the  glass  with  straw,  hay,  or  fodder  to  give 
additional  protection.  The  cold  frame  method  for  winter- 
ing over  vegetables  will  probably  not  prove  such  a  successful 
one  for  the  inexperienced  gardener  as  storage  on  the  cellar 
floor. 

Parsley  for  winter  use.  If  the  roots  are  taken  out  of  the 
garden  and  transplanted  to  a  box  or  flower  pot,  parsley  will 
furnish  green  leaves  all  winter  long.  It  can  then  be  placed 
in  a  sunny  window  either  in  a  living  room  or  in  the  indoor 
cellar. 

284 


STORING   VEGETABLES   IN    COLD   FRAMES  285 

STUDY    OUTLINE 

1.  Name  the  vegetables  in  group  2. 

2.  Tell  how  they  may  be  stored. 

HOME    AND    COMMUNITY    WORK 

i.  Do  any  of  the  gardeners  of  your  neighborhood  store  these  vege- 
tables in  cold  frames? 

2.  If  so,  tell  how  the  cold  frame  is  arranged  and  protected. 

3.  Do  any  persons  store  the  vegetables  of  this  group  in  an  indoor 
cellar? 

4.  If  so,  which  plan  has  proved  most  satisfactory? 


CHAPTER   LXXIX 
STORING  VEGETABLES  IN  COOL  AND  WARM  ROOMS 

Vegetables  requiring  cool  conditions.  Vegetables  of  group 
3,  such  as  the  onion  and  garlic,  require  cool,  dry  conditions 
with  free  circulation  of  air.  These  conditions  can  be  se- 
cured in  a  good  dry  indoor  cellar  or  in  some  unheated 
room  in  the  house.  Onions  should  be  placed  in  crates  for 
good  ventilation.  Garlic  cloves,  as  has  already  been  said 
(Chapter  LV),  may  be  hung  upon  nails  or  hooks  after 
braiding   their   tops   together. 

Vegetables  requiring  warm  conditions.  Vegetables  of 
group  4,  including  the  sweet  potato,  squash,  and  pumpkin, 
require  warm,  dry  conditions  with  free  circulation  of  air. 
These  conditions  can  be  secured  in  a  warm  furnace  room  or 
beside  a  warm  chimney.  Sweet  potatoes  may  be  spread 
out  on  boards  or  wrapped  separately  in  paper  and  placed 
in  crates. 

STUDY    OUTLINE 

i .  What  vegetables  are  included  in  group  3  ? 

2.  How  are  these  stored? 

3.  What  vegetables  are  included  in  group  4? 

4.  How  are  these  stored? 

HOME    AND    COMMUNITY    WORK 

1.  How  are  all  group  3  vegetables  stored  in  your  community? 

2.  How  are  all  group  4  vegetables  stored  in  your  community? 

3.  Describe  the  method  that  is  most  satisfactory  for  storing  the 
vegetables  of  each  group. 

286 


CHAPTER   LXXX 
SAVING   THE   BY-PRODUCTS 

Economy  is  one  of  the  most  valuable  lessons  any  person 
can  learn.  The  saving  of  by-products  for  some  good  use 
is  one  way  to  practise  economy. 

By-products  as  food  for  animals.  When  vegetables  and 
fruit  are  being  prepared  for  preserving  or  for  the  regular 
meal,  a  quantity  of  by-products  become  available  for  use. 
Some  of  these,  including  vegetable  and  fruit  peelings,  may 
be  fed  to  poultry  and  to  pigs.  Root  crops  may  be  fed  to 
rabbits  or  to  poultry. 

By-products  improve  the  garden  soil.  All  vegetable 
and  fruit  waste  not  used  in  feeding  animals  should  be 
placed  back  upon  the  soil.  To  do  this  dig  trenches  10  to 
12  inches  deep.  Put  the  waste  into  these  trenches  and 
cover  it  with  earth.  These  by-products  decay  and  help 
to  improve  the  soil. 

Vegetable  and  fruit  waste  help  build  the  compost  heap. 
If  the  gardener  is  preparing  a  compost  heap,  vegetable 
and  fruit  waste  will  help  to  build  it.  Directions  for  making 
one  have  already  been  given  (Chapter  X). 

Preserving  left-overs  in  refrigerator  or  cooler.  Portions 
of  vegetables  and  small  quantities  of  fruit  left  over  from  a 
meal  are  frequently  wasted  when  no  cooler  is  used.  If 
no  part  of  the  refrigerator  is  intended  especially  for  vege- 
tables, they  can  be  placed  directly  upon  the  ice  contained 
in  the  cooler.  If  there  is  no  cooler  the  food  can  be  placed 
in  a  cool  moist  place  for  a  short  period.     For  the  best  results 

287 


288  GARDEN   CROPS 

the  tops  should  be  left  on  root  crops  until  they  are  needed 
for  the  table. 

How  to  keep  left-over  vegetables  crisp.  Young  onions, 
lettuce,  radishes,  and  rhubarb  left  over  from  a  meal  can 
be  kept  crisp  if  wrapped  in  moistened  paper  and  placed  on 
the  cellar  floor. 

How  to  utilize  left-overs.  Left-over  vegetables  and  fruits 
may  be  prepared  in  a  variety  of  ways  so  that  nothing  need 
be  wasted.  Onion  tops,  beet  tops,  and  parts  of  other  vege- 
tables may  be  used  in  salads,  pickles,  soups,  and  greens. 
Watermelon  rinds  may  be  saved  for  preserves.  The  juices 
resulting  from  the  cooking  of  vegetables  should  be  saved 
for  soups.  When  by-products  or  unused  foods  are  utilized 
for  some  good  purpose  we  are  conserving  food,  adding  to 
our  own  comfort,  and  promoting  the  welfare  of  the  nation. 


STUDY    OUTLINE 

i.  How  may  vegetable  waste  be  utilized  for  improving  the  soil? 

2.  For  what  purpose  is  a  refrigerator  or  cooler  used  in  the  home? 

3.  How  can  moist  paper  be  used  to  save  vegetables? 

4.  Give  two  good  reasons  for  trying  to  save  food. 

HOME    AND    COMMUNITY    WORK 

i.  What  use,  if  any,  is  made  of  vegetable  waste  in  your  own  home? 
In  the  homes  of  your  neighborhood? 

2.  In  what  other  ways  than  the  ones  suggested  here  is  food  economized 
in  the  families  of  your  community? 


SECTION  THREE 
SUGGESTIONS  TO  TEACHERS 


19 


Fig.  99.     An  exhibit  0}  home  garden  crops,  Milwaukee.     A  suo;3?>fn' 

showing  of  what  young  gardeners  can  do  in  ths  p'jl  t'Mo  1 

and  preservation  of  crops. 


SUGGESTIONS  TO  TEACHERS 

These  suggestions  to  teachers  are  included  in  the  book  for  the  pur- 
pose of  encouraging  every  teacher  or  supervisor  of  gardening  to  make 
the  most  out  of  his  work. 

LESSON   ASSIGNMENTS 

The  chapters  in  most  cases  have  been  made  short.  This  plan  was 
followed  because  many  teachers  desire  to  assign  subject  matter  for  les- 
sons in  complete  units.  With  a  few  exceptions  one  chapter  will  not  be 
too  much  for  one  day's  lesson.  Where  chapters  are  long  they  have  been 
subdivided.  In  these  few  cases  more  than  one  lesson  may  be  given 
to  a  chapter. 

CHAPTERS   FOR   REFERENCE   AND   STUDY 

Because  of  the  nature  of  Chapters  VI,  VII,  VIII,  XV,  XVI,  XXII, 
and  LXVIII  they  are  intended  chiefly  for  reference  but  may  also  be 
assigned  for  special  study  and  discussion  by  the  pupils. 

PROJECTS  AND  PROBLEMS 

At  the  end  of  Section  I  there  are  three  groups  of  exercises  suitable 
for  indoor  class  work.  If  the  teacher  desires  additional  matter  of  this 
nature  for  classroom  work  it  can  be  secured  in  bulletin  form  from  the 
United  States  Department  of  Agriculture.  Most  books  on  gardening 
and  agriculture  also  contain  lists  of  classroom  exercises  or  experiments 
for  school  use.  Both  the  author's  handbook  for  teachers,  Agriculture 
in  the  Public  Schools,  and  the  Ivins- Merrill  Practical  Lessons  in  Agri- 
culture, contain  a  large  number  of  classroom  exercises  suitable  for  pupils 
doing  gardening  work. 

STUDY    OUTLINE   AT    END    OF    CHAPTERS 

Questions  for  aiding  the  pupil  in  the  study  of  the  lesson  are  found 
in  the  "Study  Outline,"  given  at  the  close  of  most  of  the  chapters. 

291 


292 


GARDEN    CROPS 


HOME  AND  COMMUNITY  WORK 
The  directions  given  at  the  close  of  the  chapters  under  "Home  and 
Community  Work"  should  be  given  particular  attention  in  teaching 
with  this  book.  These  studies  will  teach  the  child  to  note  the  methods 
used  in  producing  and  preserving  garden  crops  in  his  home  and  com- 
munity. This  survey  of  local  conditions  should  result  in  increasing 
the  child's  interest  in  gardening. 

CLASS   ROOM   AND   OUTDOOR   WORK 

To  secure  the  best  results  the  child  should  have  regular  classroom 
instruction  in  the  principles  of  gardening,  accompanied  and  supplemented 
by  practical  experience  out  of  doors  (Fig.  100).  Classroom  instruction 
necessitates  the  use  of  a  textbook  on  gardening.     The  work  outlined  in 


Fig.   100.   Teacher  and  pupils  at  work   in  a  school  garden, 
knowledge  gained  here  later  will  be  put  to  good  use 
in  the  home  garden. 


The 


the  textbook  may  be   supplemented  by  state  and  federal  leaflets  and 
bulletins    on    the  subject,    garden  magazines,  literature   published   by 


SUGGESTIONS  TO  TEACHERS 


293 


seed    houses    and  nurseries  or  brought  out  and  distributed  by  private 
and  patriotic  organizations,  general  textbooks  on   gardening   and  agri- 


Fig.  101.     Teaching  pupils  how  to  garden  in  a 
school  garden,  Washington. 

culture,  and  library  books  on  insects,  birds,  soils,  plants,  fertilizers,  and 
garden  crops. 

Classroom  instruction  in  gardening  may  be  given  during  the  entire 
year  or  during  either  semester,  and  receives  regular  school  grades  or 
credits.  Additional  credits  are  allowed  for  outdoor  garden  work.  The 
outdoor  work  should  provide  an  opportunity  for  each  child  to  plant, 
cultivate,  and  harvest  at  least  one  garden  crop.  If  land  is  available  on 
the  school  grounds  or  on  some  vacant  lot  near  by,  the  child  will  find 
much  pleasure  and  will  be  greatly  benefited  by  doing  the  actual  work 
of  planting  and  cultivating  his  crops  under  the  personal  direction  of 
an  instructor  (Fig.  101). 

In  many  instances  this  opportunity  for  outdoor  work  will  be  fur- 
nished by  a  garden  at  the  child's  home.     Whenever  this  happens  to  be 


294 


GARDEN    CROPS 


the  case  the  parents  will  offer  helpful  suggestions  and  will  gladly 
coo'perate  with  the  school  in  carrying  out  the  program  arranged  by  the 
school  authorities. 

TYPES    OF    GARDENS 

The  garden  at  the  school.  The  school  garden  on  the  school  grounds 
has  very  definite  reasons  for  its  existence.  It  has  a  distinct  educational 
value.  It  serves  (i)  as  an  outdoor  laboratory  for  the  school  where  the 
home  gardeners  are  trained  in  the  principles  of  gardening;  (2)  it  can  be 
made  the  model  for  many  home  gardens;  (3)  it  can  be  used  as  a  com- 
munity garden  containing  the  individual  plots  for  the  children  of  the 


Fig.  102.     At  the  end  of  a  lesson  in  the  school  garden,  the  pupils  are 
putting  the  paths  in  order. 


neighborhood  (Fig.  102);  (4)  demonstrations  in  the  use  of  lime,  fertilizers, 
crop  rotation  systems,  and  irrigation  methods  can  be  carried  out. 


SUGGESTIONS  TO  TEACHERS 


295 


Schools  should  not  inaugurate  work  that  they  cannot  properly  com- 
plete.    The  school  garden  that  is  abandoned  when  school  closes  reflects 


Fig.  103.     A  large  tract,  or  community  garden  for  girls.     After  com- 
pleting their  work  on  the  tract,  the  girls  are  able  to  plan  and  make 
home  gardens  without  the  assistance  of  a  teacher. 

on  the  efficiency  of  the  entire  system.  On  the  other  hand  a  successful 
school  garden  is  a  credit  to  the  school  and  is  evidence  of  an  enthusiastic 
school  teacher  or  principal.  Work  in  the  school  garden  should  blend 
with  the  garden  work  at  home.  A  properly  managed  school  garden 
should  mean  a  more  successful  home  garden.  The  following  are  some 
of  the  advantages  of  the  school  garden: 

1.  The  children  are  taught  in  groups  on  individual  plots  the  proper 
way  to  prepare  the  seed  bed,  to  plant  seeds,  to  thin  plants,  and  all  other 
garden  operations.  This  group  instruction,  which  is  economy  in  edu- 
cation, is  of  course  impossible  in  the  home  garden. 

2.  All  the  children  become  interested  in  gardens  and  gardening 
since  enthusiasm  is  sure  to  be  contagious, 


2g6 


GARDEN   CROPS 


3.  Certain  social  values  are  obtained.  The  cooperative  use  of 
land,  tools,  water,  and  seeds,  teaches  the  child  to  recognize  the  rights 
of  others;  it  impresses  upon  him  the  fact  that  the  world  does  not  begin 
and  end  with  himself. 

4.  The  children  are  less  tired  at  the  end  of  the  day,  because  regular 
periods  of  outdoor  garden  work  break  the  monotony  of  the  daily  school- 
room routine. 

5.  The  growing  child  gets  the  exercise  in  the  open  air  that  he  needs, 
while  at  the  same  time  his  activities  are  under  wise  direction. 

6.  The  school  garden  gives  opportunity  for  the  study  of  natural 
life  and  forces.     The  life  history  not  only  of  plants  but  of  insects,  birds, 


Fig.   104.     A   boy's  garden,   Cincinnati.     The  garden,  a  part  of  a 

large  tract,  contains  4/10  of  an  acre  and  yielded 

the  owner  $138  in  one  year. 

earthworms,  and  moles  is  under  observation,  and  the  action  of  heat  and 
light  and  other  natural  forces  is  being  constantly  illustrated. 


SUGGESTIONS  TO  TEACHERS 


297 


i 


'-.-"■r%«*r»-  •«•■■ ~ 


Fig.  105.     Scattering  lime  on  a  large  tract  gatden.     Sour  clay  soils 
are  greatly  improved  by  the  addition  of  lime. 

7.  The  school  garden  offers  opportunity  for  vitalizing  all  school 
subjects  through  correlation.  The  interest  in  natural  history  in  plant 
and  animal  life,  that  is  developed  and  fostered  in  the  school  will  be 
carried  into  the  home. 

Large  tract  garden.  Progressive  citizens  in  all  parts  of  the  country 
are  urging  the  teaching  of  gardening  in  the  schools.  Each  year  boys 
and  girls  are  becoming  more  and  more  interested  in  the  subject. 
Because  of  these  new  demands  and  the  constantly  growing  interest  on 
the  part  of  the  children,  school  authorities  everywhere  are  searching 
for  available  garden  sites  that  will  furnish  garden  plots  for  large 
numbers  of  children. 

Business  men  and  public  spirited  citizens  are  cooperating  with  the 
schools  by  offering  them  at  little  or  no  cost  large  tracts  of  land  for  garden 
purposes  under  the  direction  of  the  school  faculties. 

These  interested  citizens  realize  that  when  all  vacant  land  is  utilized, 
it  affords  an  opportunity  to  increase  the  food  supply  and  makes  any  city 
a  more  attractive  place  to  live  in. 


298  GARDEN   CROPS 

When  large  tracts  are  at  the  disposal  of  the  garden  teacher  and  super- 
visor, usually  each  child  can  be  given  an  opportunity  to  do  something 


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Fig.  106.     Supervisors,  teachers,  and  gardeners.  Union  Tract,  Cleveland. 


in  the  way  of  producing  food  for  himself  and  the  family  (Fig.  104) .  Pupils 
residing  in  densely  populated  areas  take  advantage  of  the  large  tract  to 
secure  ample  garden  space,  and  those  who  have  a  very  small  space  for  a 
garden  at  home  can  usually  secure  additional  space,  if  they  desire,  on 
a  large  tract. 

The  large  tract  system  has  been  found  to  be  more  economical  than 
either  the  home  or  the  school  garden  on  the  school  grounds,  because 
demonstrations  in  planting  can  be  given  on  one  tract  to  the  children  of 
several  school  districts  at  a  time.  Some  garden  supervisors  find  that 
the  pupils  take  a  greater  interest  in  working  large  tracts.  They  say 
this  is  due  to  the  greater  scope  for  competition  and  friendly  rivalry  among 
gardeners. 


SUGGESTIONS  TO  TEACHERS 


299 


Tracts  should  be  selected  in  as  many  different  parts  of  the  school 
district  as  possible.     If  a  child  has  to  travel  long  distances  to  his  garden, 


The  school  board  furnished  all  the  tools  used  in  tilling  the  Union  Tract. 


much  of  his  enthusiasm  will  be  lost  before  he  begins  his  work.  When 
possible  the  garden  tracts  should  be  so  located  that  no  child  will  be 
required  to  travel  over  two  miles  to  work. 

Vacant  Lots.  The  vacant  lots  within  a  city,  land  adjacent  to 
parks,  or  even  a  part  of  a  park  itself  will  provide  a  large  acreage  for 
gardens.  Some  of  the  larger  cities  have  under  the  cultivation  of  young 
gardeners  as  many  as  thirty  tracts  ranging  from  3  to  50  acres  in  size. 
If  the  larger  pieces  of  land  cannot  be  had,  then  small  vacant  lots  are 
recommended.  In  any  case,  the  land  should  be  divided  into  individual 
plots  for  the  use  of  each  child.  This  plan  marks  definitely  the  space 
each  child  cultivates. 


3oo 


GARDEN   CROPS 


Advantages  of  the  large  tract.     Community  school  gardens  on  the  large 
tracts  not  only  increase  food  production,  but  also  offer  some  advantages 


Fig.   107.     This  large  tract  garden  has  an   unusually  fine  location. 

in  plowing,  planting,  watering,  cultivating,  and  harvesting  (Fig.  105). 
They  can  also  be  supervised  at  less  cost  than  home  gardens,  or  small 
gardens  at  each  individual  school.  On  a  large  tract  one  teacher  may 
be  able  to  supervise  the  work  of  two  hundred  children,  while  the  task 
would  be  impossible  if  he  were  required  to  visit  the  home  of  each  child. 
Any  general  instruction  can  be  given  more  easily  and  more  economically 
upon  the  larger  tracts  than  upon  the  home  garden  or  the  school  garden 
on  the  school  grounds. 

Small  lots  are  frequently  available  in  almost  any  part  of  the  town  or 
city,  with  the  possible  exception  of  the  very  congested  districts.  Plans 
should  be  carried  out  to  list  all  such  small  areas  in  the  fall  in  order  that 
garden  work  may  not  be  delayed  in  the  spring  because  space  was  lacking 
early  in  the  season.  By  obtaining  the  land  in  the  fall,  leaves  and  stable 
fertilizers  may  be  added  during  the  season  if  desired. 


SUGGESTIONS  TO  TEACHERS 


301 


Disadvantages  of  the  large  tract.     While  many  things  arc  gained  by 
gardening   in  large  tracts  there   are  objections  to  the    plan.     Some  of 


77  affords  garden  plots  for  pupils  who  have   no   home  garden   space. 

these  are  the  following:  The  products  are  exposed  and  frequently  large 
quantities  are  stolen;  considerable  time  is  lost  going  to  and  from  the 
gardens;  children  are  kept  away  from  home  a  large  part  of  the  time; 
it  is  troublesome  to  carry  home  the  crops,  if  they  are  produced  in  large 
quantities;  unless  tools  and  tool  houses  are  provided,  it  means  taking 
the  tools  back  and  forth  each  day;  where  shelter  houses  are  not  provided, 
children  are  exposed  to  storms;  water  for  watering  out  plants,  drinking 
water  and  rest  rooms  are  frequently  a  considerable  distance  away, 
necessitating  loss  of  time  from  actual  work.  Several  of  these  disad- 
vantages are  being  overcome  in  many  places  by  the  school  authorities. 
Tools  and  tool  houses,  rest  rooms,  drinking  fountains  and  water  systems 
are  being  provided.  In  spite  of  these  disadvantages,  every  large  school 
system  should  have  land  in  connection  with  some  of  the  school  build- 
ings, as  well  as  a  few  large  garden  tracts.  Lands  used  in  this  way  serve 
as  models  for  the  children  of  the  community.     In  these  tracts  many 


302  GARDEN    CROPS 

interesting  and  valuable  demonstrations  can  be  worked  out  to  the  ad- 
vantage of  the  community. 

The  garden  at  the  home.  Perhaps  five  million  children  in  the  United 
States  plant  and  cultivate  home  gardens  each  year.  This  number  will 
be  increased  when  all  boys  and  girls  are  taught  gardening  in  the  schools 
as  they  should  be.  Where  this  subject  has  been  made  a  part  of  the 
regular  school  work,  a  much  greater  interest  is  shown  and  better 
garden  crops  are  produced. 

Some  of  the  advantages  of  the  garden  at  the  home  are  the  following: 

i.  The  home   garden   places   the  child  upon  his  own  responsibility 

more  than  does  the  garden  at  the  school,  or  the  large  tract  garden  where 

many   persons  are   working   together.     This    is    good    for    the    child's 

personal  development. 

2.  Parents  can  aid  in  directing  the  garden  work  in  the  home  garden 
or.  if  experienced  in  gardening,  can  profit  by  the  instruction  the  child 
receives  at  school. 

3.  The  work  performed  by  the  child  at  home  in  cooperation  with  the 
parent  on  a  school  project  is  good  for  the  parent,  the  child,  and  the  com- 
munity in  general. 

4.  The  home  garden  helps  to  make  the  home  self-sustaining.  It 
gives  the  child  an  opportunity  to  contribute  toward  keeping  up  the  family 
table. 

5.  The  home  garden  is  the  most  convenient,  and  therefore  offers 
an  opportunity  for  the  child  to  work  a  few  minutes  at  a  time  when  not 
otherwise  engaged. 

6.  Parents  feel  more  comfortable  to  have  the  children  working  at 
home  than  when  they  are  working  on  some  distant  school  garden  or  large 
tract. 

7.  Both  parents  and  children  are  pleased  to  see  garden  plants 
growing  on  their  own  home  lots.  It  seems  to  intensify  their  feeling 
of  ownership,  and  gives  an  added  security  to  their  sense  of  possession. 

8.  Thrift  is  taught  when  the  child  sells  the  surplus  and  places  money 
in  the  savings  bank. 

9.  Like  the  school  garden  and  the  large  tract  garden,  the  home 
garden  gives  an  opportunity  for  outdoor  exercise  with  a  definite  object 


SUGGESTIONS  TO  TEACHERS  303 

10.  Vegetables  produced  at  home  release  cars  for  transporting  other 
food,  and  for  hauling  coal  and  other  materials  that  are  needed  for  our 
homes. 

The  aims  of  school  garden  work.  The  ultimate  aims  of  all  forms  of 
garden  work  and  all  types  of  gardens  under  school  direction  are:  To 
afford  children  an  opportunity  to  have  a  form  of  exercise  that  will  put 
them  in  good  health  and  keep  them  so;   to  teach  a  greater  appreciation 


Fig.  108.     A  section  of  a  7-acre  school  garden.     Each  young  gardener 

cultivated  1/20  of  an  acre,  keeping  an  account  of  all  receipts 

and  expenditures. 

of  the  value  of  food;  to  furnish  a  means  of  utilizing  children's  spare 
time  and  keep  them  off  of  the  streets;  to  teach  the  elements  of  agricul- 
ture, an  industry  on  which  our  lives  depend;  to  teach  children  to  learn 
by  observation  and  to  give  them  a  practical  training;  to  influence 
character  by  appealing  to  a  child's  love  of  nature;  to  prepare  the  child 
for  citizenship  by  teaching  him  to  respect  public  and  private  property; 
to  teach  independence  and  self-reliance;  to  bring  the  school  and  home 
into  closer  relationship  by  having  the  child  apply  at  home  what  he  has 
been  taught  in  the  school  garden;  and  to  enable  the  coming  generations 
of  men  and  women  to  grow  a  sufficient  amount  of  food  for  their  own  use. 


3°4 


GARDEN' CROPS 


SCHOOL   EXHIBITS   OF   GARDEN    CROPS 

Perhaps  one  of  the  best  means  of  creating  an  interest  in  producing 
and  preserving  garden  crops  is  by  having  exhibits.  These  may  be  held 
at  the  school  as  a  collection  of  individual  exhibits,  composed  of  speci- 
mens produced  from  one  garden  by  any  child;  in  a  community  house 
or  public  hall  as  a  group,  club,  or  company  exhibit;  at  a  county  fair  as 
a  county  exhibit,  representing  work  of  many  children  from  one  county; 


Fig.   109.     Among  school  garden  exhibits  this  one  of  Portland, 
Oregon,  stands  almost  unrivaled. 

and  at  a  state  fair,  as  a  collection  of  any  of  the  above  kinds  of  exhibits 
from  different  parts  of  the  state. 

A  community  leader,  a  chairman  of  a  Teachers'  Institute,  a  captain 


SUGGESTIONS   TO   TEACHERS] 


305 


of  a  company,  or  a  club  president,  frequently  arranges  for  an  exhibit 
in  connection  with  some  special  meeting  of  a  particular  group. 


Fig. 


10.     An  exhibit  of  vegetables  from  Columbus  and  Cincinnati 
school  gardens  at  the  Ohio  State  Fair. 


The  vegetables,  canned  goods,  and  other  items  that  make  up  the 
exhibit,  should  be  arranged  with  care  and  made  as  attractive  as  possible. 
Everything  should  be  clearly  marked  to  indicate  exactly  what  it  is. 
Crops  of  similar  kind,  whether  canned,  dried,  or  in  their  natural  state, 
should  be  shown  together.  All  vegetables  exhibited  must  be  clean, 
free  from  disease,  and  with  tops  removed.  Uniform  inexpensive  plates 
or  containers  should  be  used. 

Classification  of  exhibit  crops.  The  following  outline1  of  garden 
crops  may  prove  suggestive  in  arranging  the  exhibit. 

iFromR.  L.  Watts's  Vegetable  Gardening,  pp.    196-199.     The  groupings  used 
throughout  this  book  may  also  provide  satisfactory   plans  for  preparing  exhibits. 


20 


306  GARDEN    CROPS 

Classl.     Annual  vegetables 

Subclass  I.     Crops  grown  for  their  subterranean  parts 
Group  i.     Root  crops  (5  to  each  plate) 

Beets 

Carrots 

Parsnips 

Radishes 

Salsify 

Turnips  and  rutabagas 
Group  2.     Tuber  crops  (5  to  a  plate) 

Potatoes 
Group  3.     Bulb  crops  (5  to  a  plate) 

Onions 

Leeks 
Subclass  II.     Crops  grown  for  their  foliage  parts 
Group  4.     Cole  crops  (1  to  a  plate) 

Cabbages 

Cauliflower 

Kohl-rabi 
Group  5.     Pot-herb  crops  used  for  greens  (1  to  a  plate) 

Spinach 

Beets 

Dandelion 
Group  6.     Salad  crops  (1  plant  to  a  plate) 

Lettuce 

Endive 

Celery 

Parsley 
Subclass  III.     Crops  grown  for  fruit  or  seed 
Group  7.     Puis?  crops  (1  pint  to  a  plate) 

Beans 

Peas 
Group  8.     Solanaceous  crops 

Tomato  :s  (5  to  a  plate) 

Eggplant  (2  to  a  plate) 

Peppers  (5  to  a  plate) 
Group  9.     Cucurbitaceous  or  vine  crops 

Cucumbers  (3  to  a  plate) 

Melons  (1  to  a  plate) 

Squashes  (1  to  a  plate) 


SUGGESTIONS   TO  TEACHERS 


307 


Group  10.     Corn 

Sweet  corn  (4  green  ears  in  husk) 
Class  II.     Perennial  vegetables 

Asparagus  (2  bunches  to  a  plate) 
Rhubarb  (6  stalks  to  a  plate) 

Programs.  Special  programs  can  be  held  in  connection  with  these 
exhibits.  Garden  pageants,  songs,  essays,  drills,  lantern-slides,  and 
photographs  or  drawings  of  gardens  will  make  them  interesting. 

Classification  of  exhibits.  Best  individual  exhibits,  to  be  confined 
to  articles  produced  from  one  garden  by  any  pupil.  Five  or  more  plates 
may  be  required,  no  two  to  be  of  the  same  kind  of  crop. 

Best  school  exhibit,  to  be  confined  to  articles  produced  by  the  pupils 
from  any  one  school  building,  consisting  of  at  least  fifty  plates.  As 
many  different  garden  crops  as  possible  should  be  shown  (Fig.  109). 


EXHIBIT  OF  VECfJABLES.PWNTEO.CULTIWF^ 

*MARVCsrs  W  BOYSWOSf  AVffVWMf  isn  vears   ' 


Fig.  hi.     This  excellent  exhibit  of  vegetables  displayed  by  the  garden 

class  of  Lincoln  Agricultural  School,  New  York,  shows 

what  young  boys  can  do. 


3o8  GARDEN    CROPS 

Best  group,  club  or  company  exhibit,  to  be  confined  to  articles  pro- 
duced by  members  of  a  regularly  organized  group,  club  or  company, 
from  one  or  more  school  buildings,  consisting  of  at  least  one  hundred 
plates  of  as  many  different  garden  crops  as  can  be  secured  (Fig.  in). 

Best  county  exhibit,  to  be  confined  to  articles  produced  by  the  chil- 
dren from  one  county.  See  that  all  of  the  crops  that  can  be  grown  in 
the  county  are  represented  in  the  county  exhibit.  It  should  require 
250  plates  or,  if  a  canning  exhibit,  250  cans. 

A  state  exhibit  may  be  made  up  of  any  or  all  of  the  above  described 
exhibits  (Fig.  no). 

Premiums.  Premiums  given  for  exhibits  may  consist  of  merchandise, 
cash,  ribbons,  certificates  or  merit  cards  and  flags. 

Leading  merchants  are  frequently  willing  to  contribute  merchandise 
from  their  stores  for  premiums.  We  should  not  ask  too  much  of  mer- 
chants, but  small  donations  will  add  interest  to  the  exhibit.  Use  the 
small  pieces  of  merchandise  for  individual  premiums,  and  the  larger 
ones  for  the  school,  group,  club,  or  company  premiums.  A  bookcase, 
tools  for  working  the  garden,  or  similar  things  of  permanent  value  that 
will  become  the  property  of  the  school  make  suitable  premiums. 

The  premiums  most  commonly  used  are  cash.  Many  small  premiums 
are  better  than  a  few  large  ones  as  the  distribution  of  rewards  among 
a  larger  number  of  pupils  makes  the  competition  more  interesting. 

Many  persons  feel  that  ribbons  of  different  colors  make  desirable 
premiums.  The  rank  of  each  prize  is  printed  on  the  ribbon  and  is  also 
indicated  by  the  color.  For  example,  the  first  prize  may  be  red,  the 
second  blue,  and  the  third  white. 

Certificates  or  merit  cards  of  different  colors  and  kinds,  and  American 
flags  in  different  sizes,  are  occasionally  given  as  premiums. 

SCORE    CARDS 

Score  cards  are  valuable  guides  for  showing  the  teacher  or  pupil 
the  most  important  points  to  be  considered  in  grading  or  scoring  a  proj- 
ect. For  score  cards  to  use  in  judging  any  particular  garden  crop  write 
your  state  experiment  station,  state  college  of  agriculture,  or  state  super- 
intendent of  schools.  The  cards  used  below  may  prove  helpful  for  the 
purposes  indicated. 


SUGGESTIONS  TO  TEACHERS 


3°Q 


Score  Cards  for  Judging  Home  Gardens 


Scale  of  points 


Score 
awarded 


1) 


General  appearance 

Arrangement  of  rows. 

Freedom  from  weeds 

Cultivation  and  care 

Proper  thinning 

Choice  of  vegetables 

For  home  use 

For  marketing.... 

For  canning 

Freedom  from  pests 

Spraying  for  insects. 

Spraying  for  disease 

Other  remedial  measures. 
Evidences  of 

Continuous  cultivation 

Companion  cropping 

Succession  cropping 

Care  of  tools.. 

Value  of  produce 

Used  at  home 

Sold  in  the  market 

Used  for  canning 

Accuracy  of  garden  records. 


Total. 


15 


15 


100 


IF 


Score 
awarded 


1.  Effort 

2.  Care  of  garden  and  tools 

3.  Record  of  work  done 

4.  Value  of  produce 

Total 


iPublished  and  recommended  by  the  Garden   Division  of  the   United   States 
Bureau  of  Education,  Washington. 

2  From  the  Ivins-Merrill  Practical  Lessons  in  Agriculture. 


3io 


GARDEN   CROPS 


Score  Card  for  Judging  School  and  Vacant  Lot  Gardens1 


Score 
awarded 


1.  Attendance 

2.  Care  of  garden  and  tools 

3.  Cooperation 

4.  Records  of  work  done _ 

5.  Value  of  produce 

Total 


Score  Card  for  Judging  Vegetable  Exhibits 


Scale  of  points 

Score 
awarded 

1.  Quality  or  condition 

50 
15 
10 
10 
15 

2.  Completeness  of  display..              .  - 

3.  Uniformity  of  specimens  exhibited 

4.  Arrangement  of  display 

5.  General  appearance 

Total 

IOO 

Score  Card  for  Judging  Canned  Vegetables 


1  From  the  Ivins-Merrill  Practical  Lessons  in  Agriculture. 


Scale  of  points 

Score 
awarded 

1.  Flavor 

65 
15 
20 

2.  Color... 

3.  Condition  of  vegetable 

Total..     .     . 

IOO 

SUGGESTIONS  TO  TEACHERS 
Score  Card  for  Judging  Jelly 


Score 
awarded 


1.  Flavor. - 

2.  Color 

3.  Consistency 

4.  Texture ~~ 

Total 


vScore  Card  for  Judging  Canned  Fruit 


1.  Color. 

2.  Flavor ..... 

3.  Condition  of  fruit.. 

4.  Condition  of  sirup. 


Total. 


Score  Card  for  Judging  Preserves 


1.  Flavor 

2.  Color 

3.  Consistency... ..: 

4.  Condition  of  fruit... 

Total. 


3I2 


GARDEN  CROPS 


SOME  SUGGESTIVE   FORMS 

The  forms  suggested  below  have  been  used  with  success  in  many- 
parts  of  the  country. 

Instructions  for  Merit  Record1 
I 


1.  Daily  attendance — full  time 

2.  Good  deportment — best  behavior. 

3.  Perfect  spading,  raking,  and  leveling  of  garden  bed 

4.  Straight  rows,  evenly  planted  and  plant  rows  rilled  out 

5.  Garden  with  no  weeds 

6.  Best  cultivation,  keeping  surface  soil  well  pulverized 

7.  Watering — done  when  needed;  no  dried  plants;  no  baked 

soil 

8.  Best  notebook,  showing  each  step  and  figures  kept  by  each 

child - 

9.  Keeping  all  insects  controlled  and  destroying  them 

10.  Best  selection  of  varieties 

11.  General  appearance — neatness  of  garden  bed,  path,  and 

plants 


Points 


5 

10 
10 
10 
10 
10 


10 

10 

5 


II 

WEEKLY    MARKINGS,    DETERMINED    BY    LEADER    OF    DIRECTING    COMMITTEE    OF 
EACH    GARDEN,    BASED   ON   POINTS    SHOWN  IN  I 


Weekly 

Merit   marks 

Total 

Remarks 

date 

1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

6    |    7 

8 

9    J  10 

11 

1  This  form  was  issued  by  the  Women's  Directing  Committee  for  children's 
gardens  in  the  city  of  Chicago. 


SUGGESTIONS  TO  TEACHERS 


313 


Teacher's  Record  of  Home  Garden  Visited 
I 

Pupil's  name - - Age ...Grade. 

Address - Location  of  garden Size 

Child's  experience  in  work.. Character  of  soil 

Attitude  of  parents Local  conditions 

RECORD    OF    INSPECTIONS 


Date 

Condition  of  garden 

Suggestions  offered 

Remarks 

II 

SKETCH    OF    GARDEN    PLAN    RECORDED    BY    INSPECTOR 


Child's 

Report  of  Receipts  and  Expenditures 

Months 

Receipts.'] 

Expenditures 

Months 

Receipts 

Expenditures 

Julv. 

P^h 

Aug.   ... 

Sept 

Oct 

Nov 

Dec 

June  ... 

Total  .. 

Profit 

3H 


GARDEN  CROPS 
An  Account  Form  for  Children1 


i.  Nam 

RECEIPTS 

2.  vSize  of  garden  .. 

Date 

Vegetables, 
fruit  or  flowers 

Amount 

Sold 

Used 

EXPENSES 

Items . 

Time 

Amount 

Seeds 

or 
plants 

Labor 

Tools 

Total 

Total  expenses 

Total.... 

Profits. 

The  purpose  of  the  following  survey  is  to  find  out  the  location,  if 
possible,  of  every  garden  in  the  city,  and  the  name  and  address  of  the 
person  cultivating  it.  The  street  on  which  the  garden  is  located  should  be 
given  and  where  convenient  the  number  of  the  house  or  lot.  Where  there 
is  no  number,  give  the  side  of  street  on  which  the  garden  fronts  and 
near  or  between  what  streets  it  is  situated.  In  case  of  community  or 
neighborhood  clubs,  the  names  of  the  officers  should  be  given.  In  the 
last  column  state  whether  a  boy,  a  girl,  or  an  adult  cultivated  the 
garden. 

:A  form  used  by  the  Children's  Garden  Club  of  Normal,  Illinois. 


SUGGESTIONS  TO  TEACHERS  315 

Form  for  Making  Survey 

Board  of  Education 
City  of  Chicago 

Garden  Survey  of School.     Reported  by 

School  Extension  Dept.  Date. 191 


LOCATION  OF  GARDEN 

SIZE 

CULTIVATED  BY 

Boy 
girl  or 
adult 

Street  and 
number  or 

Near  or 
between 

E,W,  N,  S 
side  of  street 

Length 

Width 

Name 

Address 

Combination  Form  for  Report  and  Score  Card1 
I 

Directions:  Repeat  in  later  columns  those  scores  that  remain  the  same 
after  the  first  inspection.  Add  the  two  or  three  columns  and  divide  by  two 
or  three  to  get  the  average  score.  Take  into  account  in  scoring,  age  of  pupil 
and  difficulties  overcome.  Three  or  more  inspections  recommended,  May  to 
September,  if  worth  while. 


Highest 

possible 

score 

Judges'  scoring 
inspection 

Aver- 

1              2              3 

Selection  of  plot,  difficulties  overcome,  im- 
provement made  (describe,  remarks) 

IO 

The  plan  and  general  arrangement  of  the 
garden 

10 

IO 

IO 

30 
30 

Care  in  soil  preparation  and  planting  in- 
doors and  out,  stand  of  plants 

Vigor  and  general  condition  of  plants,  free- 
dom from  insects  and  disease 

Cultivation,  freedom  from  weeds,  and  gen- 
eral care  during  the  summer 

Kinds,  quantity,  and  quality  of  crops  grown 

Total 

100 

1  This  combination  form  was  used  by  the  Cincinnati  schools. 


3*6  GARDEN    CROPS 

i.  Has  practically  all  work  been  done  by  the  pupil? 

Exceptions....: 

2.  Approximate  value  of  products  raised  for  season? ..Sold?. 

Records  kept? ..Quality 

Inspection  dates 


Underline  dates  when  pupil  was  instructed 
Award 


II 
Name  of  school 


Signature  of  Inspector. 


Name  of  teacher ...Room 

Name  of  pupil .....Home  address.... 

Age  of  pupil Sex Grade  March  i. 

Location  of  garden  (school,  home,  etc.) _ 

Approximate  size  (in  sq.  ft.  or  sq.  rds.) 

Parent  or  guardian  approves... Dates 

Kind  of  vegetables... ._ 


Kind  of  flowers. 


Check  above,  at  each  inspection,  plants  still  growing,   with  number  of  inspec- 
tion.     Underscore  those  started  early  indoors  by  pupil. 


Products  suitable  for  exhibition,  canning,  etc 


Products  canned 

Products  dried 

Years  in  garden  work Success.... 

Amount  paid  toward  school-garden  expenses.... 

Source  of  seed.. Remarks. 


SUGGESTIONS  TO  TEACHERS  317 

Form  for  Certificate  of  Enrollment  for  Prospective  Gardeners1 

Name Age Grade 

Street  and  number  of  residence 

If  garden  is  not  at  home  give  location 

Size  of  garden 

Telephone  number Date 

Name  of  city 

Name  of  garden  teacher 

Years  of  experience  in  gardening ... 

Do  you  desire  your  garden  inspected  for  credit? 

Do  you  desire  free  garden  helps  issued  by  the  state  or  federal  government? 

State  briefly  the  difficulties  upon  which  advice  is  wanted 


Return  when  filled  out  to  (name  of  person) 

Form  for  Application  for  Garden  Space1 


Name  of  city 

Name  of  school  or  organization  having  garden  work  in  charge.. 

Fill  out  and  return  to 

Name  of  person  desiring  space 

Street  and  number 

I  wish  to  apply  for  space  for  a  garden.     Size  of  garden  desired. 

My  telephone  number  is Date 

1  Planned  by  Indiana  Committee  on  Food  Production. 


3i» 


GARDEN   CROPS 


Form  for  Donation  of  Vacant  Lots1 

Name  of  city Organization  in  charge 

Fill  out  and  return  to 

Name  in  full 

Street  and  number  of  residence 

I  offer  the  following  lots  for  garden  purposes 


Size  of  lots 

Location,  street  and  lot  number 

My  telephone  number  is Date 

A  Form  for  Record  Sheet2 
(name  of  city)  home  garden  army  or  club 

Name  of  company  or  club 

Name  of  garden  soldier  or  club  member 

Size  of  plot Location  of  garden 


Date 

Kind  of 
work 

Amount 
of  time 

Expenses 

Quantity 
of  veg. 

Used  or 
sold 

Value  for 
home  use 

Value  of 
veg.  sold 

Totals . 

..  .  Totals ... 

Visits  by  garden  teacher 

By  garden  suoer 

visor 

1  Planned  by  Indiana  Committee  on  Food  Production. 

2  Tack  this  card  where  tools  are  stored.     The  form  is  somewhat  similar  to  one 
used  in  Grand  Rapids,  Michigan. 


SUGGESTIONS  TO  TEACHERS  319 

A  Form  Used  by  Teachers  for  Reporting  Results  of  Garden  Work  l 

City 


Date. State 

Total  number  of  home  gardens  planted 

Estimated  average  size  of  each Total  size 

Total  number  of  school  gardens  at  the  schools.. 

Estimated  average  size  of  each Total  size 

Total  number  of  vacant  lots  or  other  gardens 

Estimated  average  size  of  each .Total  size 

Estimated  value  of  products  used  at  home 

Value  of  products  sold Value  of  canned  goods  sold. 

Estimated  value  of  canned  products  for  home  use 

Name  of  company  reporting 

Number  of  garden  soldiers..... 

Garden  Teacher-Director 

Garden  Supervisor 


Form  for  Canning  Project  Record  Sheet2 

Name Home  address 

Canning  center  at 


MATERIAL  CANNED 

LABOR 

Date 

Kind  of  ma- 
terial canned 

Cost  in- 
cluding can 

Number  of 
hours 

Value  at  ioc 
per  hr. 

Total 

investment 

Recommended  and  used  by  Garden  Division,  Bureau  of  Education,  Washing- 


-  Used  in  Cleveland  schools. 


320 


GARDEN    CROPS 


Form  for  Labels  on  Canned  Goods1 

Contents Name 

Variety Age 

Date  of  canning School 


Note  to  teacher.  For  detailed  information  in  preparing  forms  for, 
as  well  as  conducting,  school  exhibits  and  contests  in  corn,  flower,  and 
vegetable  growing  see  the  author's  Agriculture   in  the  Public  Schools. 

THE  COMPOSITION  OF  VEGETABLES 

It  is  interesting  to  note  the  composition  of  some  of  our  important 
garden  crops  as  shown  below.2 


Water 


Protein 


Fat 


Carbo- 
hydrate 


Fiber 


Ash 


Calories 
per  lb. 


Asparagus  fresh 

Beans,  string 

Beans,  dried 

Beets 

Cabbage 

Celery 

Corn 

Cucumbers 

Turnip  greens  ... 

Lettuce... 

Peas,  green 

Potatoes,  white. 
Potatoes,  sweet. 
Tomatoes... 


94 

89.2 

7-i 

§7-5 
9i-5 
94-5 
75-4 
95-4 
86.7 

94-7 
74.6 

78.3 
69 

94-3 


1.8 

2-3 
20 
1.6 
1.6 

3-i 

.8 

4.2 

1.2 

7 

2.2 

1.8 

•9 


3-3 
7-4 

65 
9-7 
5-6 
3-3 

19.7 

3-1 

6-3 

2.9 

16.9 

18.4 

27.4 

3-9 


•9 
1.1 
1 

•5 

•7 


•/ 
i-7 

•4 
i-3 

.6 


•7 
.8 

4 
1.1 

1 


•5 
2.2 

•9 
1 

1 
1.1 

•5 


105 
195 
:625 

215 

145 

85 

470 

80 

220 

90 

465 

385 

57o 

i«5 


Vegetables  with  the  exception  of  potatoes  and  beans  have  little 
actual  food  value.  The  salts,  acids,  and  the  cellulose  which  they  contain 
keep  our  digestive  organs  working  more  perfectly. 

Persons  refraining  from  eating  vegetables,  therefore,  are  much  more 
likely  to  become  ill  than  those  who  use  a  reasonable  quantity  in  each 
day's  ration. 

1  Used  in  Cleveland  schools. 

2 Arranged  by  Emma  E.  Pirie  in  The  Science  of  Home  Making. 


SUGGESTIONS  TO  TEACHERS 


321 


ADDRESSES   OF   STATE   EXPERIMENT    STATIONS 

Persons  desiring  bulletins  of  interest  upon  the  production  or  preser- 
vation of  garden  crops  published  by  each  state  experiment  station  may 
obtain  them  by  using  the  addresses  given  below. 


Alabama,       Auburn,        [Jniontown, 

Tuskegee  Institute 
Alaska,  Sitka 
Arizona,  Tucson 
Arkansas,  Fayetteville 
California,  Berkeley 
Colorado,  Fort  Collins 
Connecticut,  New  Haven,  Storrs 
Delaware,  Newark 
Florida,  Gainesville 
Georgia,  Experiment 
Guam,  Island  of  Guam 
Hawaii,  Honolulu 
Idaho,  Moscow 
Illinois,  Urbana 
Indiana,  La  Fayette 
Iowa,  Ames 
Kansas,  Manhattan 
Kentucky,  Lexington 
Louisiana,  Baton  Rogue,  Audubon 

Park,   New  Orleans,  Calhoun 
Maine,  Orono 
Maryland,  College  Park 
Massachusetts,  Amherst 
Michigan,  East  Lansing 
Minnesota,    University    Farm,    St. 

Paul 
Mississippi,  Agricultural  College 


Missouri,     Columbia,     Mountain 

Grove 
Montana,  Bozeman 
Nebraska,  Lincoln 
Nevada,  Reno 
New  Hampshire,  Durham 
New  Jersey,  New  Brunswick 
New  Mexico,  State  College 
New  York,  Geneva,   Ithaca 
North  Carolina,  West  Raleigh 
North  Dakota,  Agricultural  College 
Ohio,  Wooster 
Oklahoma,  Stillwater 
Oregon,  Corvallis 
Pennsylvania,  State  College 
Porto  Rico,  Mayguez 
Rhode  Island,  Kingston 
South  Carolina,  Clemson  College 
South  Dakota,  Brookings 
Tennessee,  Knoxvillc 
Texas,  College  Station 
Utah,  Logan 
Vermont,  Burlington 
Virginia,    Blacksburg,    Norfolk 
Washington,  Pullman 
West  Virginia,  Morgantown 
Wisconsin,  Madison 
Wyoming,  Laramie 


UNITED  STATES  AND  STATE  PUBLICATION'S  OF  INTEREST  TO 

GARDENERS 

Much  valuable  literature  upon  gardening  is  published  by  the  federal 
and  state  governments.  The  United  States  Bureau  of  Education  has 
issued  many  valuable  leaflets  and  bulletins  upon  gardening.  Many  have 
recently  been  issued  by  the  Garden  Division  of  the  Bureau.  These  have 
been  written  for  particular  regions  of  the  country.  Any  one  desiring  the 
list  of  available  bulletins  should  address  the  Bureau  of  Education, 
Washington,  D.  C.  The  list  published  for  your  region  will  be  furnished. 
From  this  list  the  leaflets  desired  may  be  selected  and  ordered. 


322  GARDEN    CROPS 

A  series  of  School-Home  Garden  Circulars  of  the  Bureau  of  Educa- 
tion should  also  be  in  the  library  of  all  persons  interested  in  gardening. 

The  United  States  Department  of  Agriculture  has  also  published  a 
large  number  of  excellent  bulletins  and  circulars  upon  the  production  and 
preservation  of  garden  crops.  The  following  list  includes  some  of  those 
most  frequently  recommended. 

List  of  Farmers'  Bulletins 

157,  "The  Propagation  of  Plants." 

196,  "Usefulness  of  the  American  Toad." 

198,  "Strawberries." 

203,  "Canned  Fruits,  Preserves,  and  Jellies." 

213,  "Raspberries." 

218,  "The  School  Garden." 

220,  "Tomatoes." 

232,  "Okra:  Its  Culture  and  Uses." 

245,  "The  Renovation  of  Worn-Out  Soil." 

254,  "Cucumbers." 

255,  "The  Home  Vegetable  Garden." 

256,  "Preparation  of  Vegetables  for  the  Table." 

257,  "Soil  Fertility." 

266,  "Management  of  Soils  to  Conserve  Moisture. 

278,  "Leguminous  Crops  for  Green  Manuring." 

282,  "Celery." 

289,  "Beans." 

295,  "Potatoes  and  other  Root  Crops  as  Food." 

324,  "Sweet  Potatoes." 

354,  "Onion  Culture." 

359,  "Canning  Vegetables  in  the  Home." 

406,  "Soil  Conservation." 

408,  "School  Exercises  in  Plant  Production." 

428,  "Testing  Seeds." 

433,  " Cabbage." 

471,  "Grape  Propagation,  Pruning,  and  Training." 

488,  "Diseases  of  Cabbage." 

544,  "Potato — Tuber  Diseases." 


SUGGESTIONS  TO  TEACHERS 


323 


548 
553 
554 
642 

643 
664 

714 
753 
766 

799 
804 
818 
821 
829 
832 
837 
847 
853 
856 

868 
870 
871 

879: 

881 
884 
887 
900 
901 
914 
921 
925 
934 
936 
948 
970 


"Storing  and  Marketing  Sweet  Potatoes." 
"Pop  Corn  for  the  Home." 
"Pop  Corn  for  the  Market." 
"Tomato  Growing  in  the  South." 
"Blackberry  Culture." 
"Strawberry  Growing  in  the  South." 
"Sweet  Potato  Disease." 

"Handling,  Grading,  and  Marketing  Potatoes." 
"Common  Cabbage  Worm." 
"Carbon  Disulphid  as  an  Insecticide." 
"Aphids  Injurious  to  Orchard  Fruits." 
"The  Small  Home  Garden." 
"Watermelon  Disease." 
"Asparagus." 

"Trapping  Moles  and  Utilizing  their  Skins." 
"The  Asparagus  Beetles  and  Their  Control." 
"Potato  Storage." 

"Home  Canning  of  Fruits  and  Vegetables." 

"Control  of  Disease  and  Insect  Enemies  of  the  Home  Vegetable 
Garden." 

"Increasing  the  Potato  Crop  by  Spraying." 
"The  Community  Fair." 

"Fresh  Fruits  and  Vegetables  as  Conserves  of  Other  Staple  Foods." 
"Home  Storage  of  Vegetables." 
"Salting,  Fermentation,  and  Pickling  Vegetables." 
"Saving  Vegetable  Seed." 
"Raspberry  Culture." 
"Home-made  Fruit  Butters." 
"Everbearing  Strawberries." 
"Control  of  the  Melon  Aphis." 
"The  Principles  of  Liming  the  Soil." 
"Cabbage  Diseases." 
"Home  Gardening  in  the  South. 
"The  City  and  Suburban  Vegetable  Garden." 
"The  Rag-Doll  Seed  Tester." 
"Sweet  Potato  Storage." 


324  GARDEN    CROPS 

State  Publications 
Requests  for  state  bulletins  and  circulars  should  be  made  directly  to 

the   addresses  given  below.     To  procure  publications  of  other  states 

write  to  the  addresses  of  the  experiment  stations  given  on  page  321. 

Alabama  Agri.  Exp.  Sta.,  College  Station,  Auburn.     Circ.  14,  "  Vegetable 
Growing  in  Alabama." 

Arizona  Agri.  Exp.  Sta.,  Tucson.     Circ.  27.  "  Spring  Vegetable  Garden." 

Colorado  Agri.  Exp.  Sta.,  Fort  Collins.     Bulletin  igg,  "Vegetable  Grow- 
ing in  Colorado." 

Georgia  Agri.  Exp.  Sta.,  Experiment.     Bulletin  106,  "Vegetable  Garden- 
ing." 

Illinois  Agri.  Exp.  Sta.,  Urbana.     Vol.  XV,  no.   25,  Extension  Bulletin, 
"War  Garden." 

Indiana  Agri.  Exp.  Sta.,  Lafayette.     Circ.  80,  "Home  Gardens." 

Kansas   Agri.    Exp.    Sta.,    Manhattan.     Kas.   Extension   Serv.    Circ.    1, 
"Mulching  Home  Gardens." 

Louisiana  Agri.  Exp.  Sta.,  Baton  Rouge.     Bulletin,  Vol.  V,  no.  7,  "Veg- 
etable Garden." 

Maryland  Agri.   Exp.   Sta.,  College  Park.     Course  g,  Ex.  Serv.   Dept., 
' '  Vegetable  Growing. ' ' 

Minnesota  Agri.  Exp.  Sta.,  University  Farm.     St.  Paul  Ex.   Bid.   17. 
"Farm  Vegetable  Garden." 

Nebraska  Agri.  Exp.  Sta.,  Lincoln.     Bulletin  142,  "Vegetable  Gardens 
in  Irrigated  Farms  in  Western  Nebraska." 

New  Hampshire  Agri.  Exp.  Sta.,  Durham.     Press  Bulletin  16,  "Vegetables 
for  the  Home  Garden." 

New  Jersey  Agri.  Exp.  Sta.,  New  Brunswick.     Ex.  Bulletin.  Vol.  I,  no.  2, 
"The  Home  Vegetable  Garden." 

New  York  Agri.  Exp.  Sta.,  Ithaca.     Reading  Course  58,  "Planning  the 
Home  Vegetable  Garden." 

North  Carolina  Agri.  Exp.  Sta..  Raleigh.     Bulletin.  "The  Home  Vege- 
table Garden." 

North  Dakota  Agri.   Exp.   Sta.,  Agri.   College,   N.   D.     Circ.  5,   "The 
Farm  Vegetable  Garden." 

Ohio  Agri.  College,  Columbus.     Ex.  Serv.,  Vol.  XIII,    no.   16,  "Home 
Vegetable  Garden." 


STATE  PUBLICATIONS  -„- 

Oklahoma   Agri.    Exp.    Sta.,    Stillwater.     Circ.    rj,    "Home    Vegetable 

Garden." 
Oregon  Agri.  Exp.  Sta.,  Corvallis.     Ex.  Bulletin  12S,  "Gardens." 
Rhode   Island  Agri.  Exp.  Sta.,    Kingston.     Vol.   1,  no.  4,  " Children's 

School  and  Home  Gardening." 
South  Carolina  Agri.  Exp.  Sta.,  Clemson.     Bull.  166,  "Home  Gardening." 
Tennessee  Agri.  Exp.  Sta.,  Knoxville.     Ex.  Bulletin,  "Farm  Gardening." 
Texas  Agri.  Exp.  Sta.,  College  Station.     Circ.  3,  "Truck  Farming  in 

Texas." 
Virginia   Truck   Exp.   Sta.,   Norfolk.     Bulletin    10,   "The  Home  Vege- 
table Garden." 
West  Virginia  Agri.  Exp.  Sta.,  Morgantown.     Ex.  Circ.  ,/.  "City  Garden 
Contest." 

HELPFUL  BOOKS 

Allen.     Cabbage,  Cauliflower  and  Allied  Vegetables.     Orange  Judd  Co. 

Bailey.     The  Principles  of  Vegetable  Gardening.     The  Macmillan  Co. 

Bailey  (ed.).  Garden  Making.     The  Macmillan  Co. 

Corbett.     Garden  Farming.     Ginn  &  Co. 

Davis.     School  and  Home  Gardening.     J.  B.  Lippincott  Co. 

French.     How  to  Grow  Vegetables.     The  Macmillan  Co. 

Green.     Popular  Fruit  Growing.     Webb  Publishing  Co. 

Henderson.     Gardening  for  Pleasure.     Orange  Judd  Co. 

Ivins  axd  Merrill.  Practical  Lessons  in  Agriculture.  American  Book- 
Co. 

Kilpatrick.     The  Child's  Food  Garden.     World  Book  Co. 

Lloyd.     Productive  Vegetable  Gardening.     J.  B.  Lippincott  Co. 

Meier.     School  and  Home  Gardening.     Ginn  &  Co. 

Nolan.     One  Hundred  Lessons  in  Agriculture.     Rowe,  Peterson  &  Co. 

Parsons.     Children's  Gardens.     Sturgis  &  Walton  Co. 

Powell.     The  Orchard  and  Fruit  Garden.     Doubleday  Page  Co. 

Rexford.     The  Home  Garden.     J.  B.  Lippincott  Co. 

Shepperd  and  McDowell.  Elements  of  Agriculture.  Webb  Pub- 
lishing Co. 

Upham.     An  Introduction  to  Agriculture.     D.  Appleton  &  Co. 

Watts.     Vegetable  Gardening.     Orange  Judd  Co. 

Wilkinson.     Modem  Strawberry  Growing.     Doubleday  Page  Co. 


THE  INDEX 


Account  form,  314 
Alfalfa,  233,  242 
Anemone  japonica,  230 
Annuals: 

vegetables,  198 

weeds,  103 
Anthracnose,  150,  157 
Aphis,  97,  106 

bean,  151 

cabbage,  125,  151 

corn  root-,  153 

melon,  151,  156,  163 

pea,  115-116,  151 

spinach,  125,  151 
Army  worms,  106 

beet,  127 
Arsenate  of  lead,  96,  124,  128,  136, 
145,  150-151,  153,  156,  163,  217 
Arsenicals,  96 
Asparagus,  28,  29,  184,  192,  275 

canning,  258 

discussion  of,  194-195 

exhibiting,  307 

harvesting,  201 

marketing,  208 

propagating,  199 

Bacteria,   98-100,   249,   250 

Bacterial  blight,  153 

Bean  anthracnose,  150 

Bean  aphis,  151 

Beans,  43,  234,  238,  242,  245,  275 

bunch,  34,  156 

bush,  28 

canning,  258 

climbing,  225 

diseases  of,  150 

discussion  of,  147-149 

dwarf,  29 

enemies  of,  1 50-1 51 

exhibiting,  306 

harvesting,  202 

lima,  66,  72,  202,  265 

marketing,  208 


pole,  33,  226 

saving  seed  of,  198 

snap,  66,  72 

See  also  String  Beans. 
Bean  blight,  150 
Bean  ladybird,  150 
Bean  leaf-beetle,  150 
Bean  weevil,  150 
Beard's  tongue,  230 
Beet  army  worm,  127 
Beetles,  95 

blister,  150 

Colorado  potatoes,  96,  105,  136 

cucumber,  155,  156,  163 

flea,  122,  123-124,127,  136,  145,  153 
Beets,  28,  29,  33,  35,  66,  72,  75,  184, 
198,  288 

canning,  258 

discussion  of,  126-127 

exhibiting,  307 

fermenting,  271 

harvesting,  202 

storing,  274,  276,  280 
Berries : 

canning,  254 

drying,  264 

preserving,  261 
Biennials: 

vegetables,  198-199 

weeds,  103-104 
Birds,  106-108 
Bisulphide  of  carbon,  116 
Blackberries,  29,  210,  233 

canning,  258 

discussion  of,  215 

preserving,  261-263 
Blackleg,  120 
Black-rot,  120 
Blanching: 

cauliflower,  172 

celery,  167 

endive,  187-188 

for  canning,  254-255,  265 
Bleeding  heart,  230 


326 


THE  INDEX 


327 


Blister  beetle,  150 
Blue  vitriol,  99 
Bordeaux  mixture: 

preparation  of,  136 

use  of,  99,  118,  145,  150,   156,   157, 
167,  212,  220 
Borecole,  184 
Boston  ivy,  228 
Brush: 

as  a  protection,  91 

as  a  support,  1 15 
Brussels  sprouts,  29,  170 

canning,  258 

discussion  of,  174-175 

drying,  265 

storing,  274,  284 
Bulb  crops,  306 
Bulbs,  228 

Burdock,  104,  234,  243 
Bush  honeysuckle,  230 
Butterflies,  95 
By-products,  287-289 

Cabbage,  32,  35,  43,   170,   171,   172, 
174,  176,  275 

discussion  of,  120-12 1 

early,  28,  66,  72 

enemies  of,  122-125,  133 

exhibiting,  306 

fermenting,  269-271 

harvesting,  201-202 

late,  29 

saving  seed  of,  198-199 

storing,  274,  276,  277,  280,  282 
Cabbage  aphis,  125,  151 
Cabbage  butterfly,  122-123 
Cabbage  looper,  122,  123-124 
Cabbage  worms,  96,  122,  123-124 
Caladiums,  228 
Canada  thistle,  243 
Cannas,  228 

Canned  fruit,  score  card  for,  311 
Canned  vegetables,  score  card  for,  310 
Canning,  250,  275 

discussion  of,  252-260 
Carbon  bisulphide,  150 
Cardinal  flower,  230 
Carrots,  28,  33,  66,  72,  75,  169,  191, 
224 

canning,  258 

discussion  of,  1 30-1 31 


exhibiting,  306 

harvesting,  202 

saying  seed  of,  198 

storing,  274,  276,  280 
Castor  bean,  225-226 
Caterpillars,  105,  106,  167 
Cats,  90,  91 
Cauliflower,  29,  32,  170,  1 74 ,  176^275 

canning,  258 

discussion  of,  172-173 

exhibiting,  306 

harvesting,  201-202 

pickling,  272 

plants,  66,  72 
Celeriac,  169 
Celery,  29,  43,  190 

discussion  of,  166-169 

exhibiting,  306 

seed,  66,  72 

storing,  274,  284 
Cellar  storage,  167,  188,  189,  274 

indoor,  191,  197,  250,  276-279 

outdoor,  250 
Chalcid  flies,  105 
Chard,  184,  275 

Cheesecloth  frames,  90-91,  101,  156 
Chervil,  131 
Chickens,  90,  91 
Chinese  cabbage,  72 

discussion  of,  121 
Chives,  189 
Chrysanthemums,  230 
Citron  melons,  159 
Class  room  and  outdoor  work, 

293-295 
Clematis,  229 
Clover,  35,  233,  242 
Clubroot,  35,  120,  133 
Cocklebur,  234,  243 
Cold  dipping,  254,  255,  265 
Cold    frame,  77,  143,   167,   175,  187, 
188,  189,   197,  233 

directions  for  making,  62-64 

storing  vegetables  in,  284-285 
Cold-pack  canning,  252-260 
Collards,  66,  72,  170,  184 

Collard  {Continued): 

discussion  of,  174 
Columbine,  230 

Community  marketing,  206-207 
Companion  cropping,  32-34,  128 


328 


THE  INDEX 


Compost  heap,  287 
directions  for  making,  50-51 

use  of,  53,  63 
Coneflower,  229,  230 

Cool  rooms,  storage  in,  286 
Cooperative  marketing,  206-207 
Copper  sulphate,  136 
Corn,  34,  152,  200,  203-204,  210,  241, 
246,  275 

canning,  253,  258 

exhibiting,  307 

fermenting,  271 

salting,  271 

See  also,  Sweet  Corn  and  Pop 
Corn. 
Corn  earworm,  153 
Corn  root-aphis,  153 
Corn  salad,  182-183 
County  exhibits,  308 
Cowpeas,  233,  242 
Crab  apples,  262 
Crickets,  106 
Crop   rotation,    35-36,    94,    98,    118, 

120,   153 
Crop  succession,  77,  132 
Crop  varieties,  41-42 
Cucumber  beetles,  155,  156,  163 
Cucumbers,  34,  66,  72,  158,  162,   163 

blossoms  of,  242 

discussion  of,  155-157 

exhibiting,  307 

fermenting,  271 

harvesting,  202 

marketing,  208 

pickling,  272 

saving  seed  of,  198,  199 
Currants,  29,  210 

canning,  258 

discussion  of,  217-218 

plant  of,  243 

preserving,  261-263 
Currant  worm,  217 
Cutworms,   106,   122,   131,   138,   145, 

153 

Dahlias,  228 
Daisy : 

ov-eye,  104,  243 

shasta,  230 
Dandelion,  234,  306 


Day  lily,  230 

Delphinium,  230 

Dicentra,  230 

Dogs,  90,  91 

Downy  mildew,  117-118,  150,  157 

Drainage,  47-48 

Drying,  250,  275 

discussion  of,  264-268 
Dust  Mulch,  81,  138 

Earthworm,  108 
Eggplant,  66,  72,  163 

discussion  of,  141-142 

exhibiting,  307 
Endive,  186 

canning,  258 

discussion  of,  187 

exhibiting,  306 

storing,  274,  283 
Exhibits: 

classification  of,  307 

classification  of  crops  for,  305-307 

score  cards  for,  310 

Fall  work,  232-233 

False  bitter  sweet,  229 

Farmers'  Bulletins,  124,  150,  151,  220, 
242 
list  of,  322-323 

Fermenting,  269-273,  275 

Fertilizers,  130,  138,  153,  155,  240 
commercial,  51,  .53-55,  94,  239 
See  also,  Stable  manure  and  Com- 
post heap 

Fetticus.     See  Corn  salad 

Flea-beetle,  122,    123-124,   127,   136, 

145,  153 

Flies,  105,  106 

Flowers,  227-230 

perfect  and  imperfect,  213,  242 

Foliage  crops,  307 

Food  preservation,  249-251 

Forget-me-not,  230 

Formaldehyde  gas,  136 

Formalin  solution,  118,  136 

Forms : 

canning  project  record,  319 
certificate  of  enrollment,  317 
donation  of  vacant  lots,  318 
for  making  survey,  315 


THE  IXDEX 


329 


for    reporting     results    of    garden 
work,  319 

labels  on  canned  goods,  319 

record  sheet,  318 

report  and  score  card,  315 
Foxglove,  230 
Fruit  or  seed  crops,  30(1 
Fungi,  98-100,  120 
Funkia,  230 

Garden : 

friends  of,  105-109 

plans  for,  24-31 

records,  92-94 

silo  of,  21-23 
Garden  cress,  183 

discussion  of,  182 
Garden  crops, 

harvesting,  201-204 

marketing,  205-209 

preserving.  247-273 

protecting,  90-91,  1 01-102 

spraying,  95-100 

storing,  274-288 

varieties  of,  41-42 
Garden  line,  83,  85 
Garden  pinks,  230 
Garden  types: 

home,  302-303 

large  tract,  297-299 

school,  294-297,  303 

vacant  lot,  299-300 
Gardeners'    Planting   Tables,    45-46, 

75 
Garlic : 

discussion  of,  189 

storing.  286 
Germination  of  seed,  43 

conditions  affecting,  44-45.  75,  76, 
185 

testing.  57,  236 
Gladioli,  228 
Gold  flower,  230 
Golden  glow,  229,  230 
Gooseberries,  29,  210 

canning,  258 

discussion  of,  217-218 

preserving,  261-263 
Grapes,  29,  224 

canning.  258 


discussion  of,  219-220 

preserving,  261-263 
Grasshoppers,  95,  106 
Green  manure,  233 
Greens,  170,  174,  22^,  306 

canning,  254-255  ' 

salting,  271 

See  also,  Spring  greens  and  Sum- 
mer greens 
Ground  beetle,  105 
Group  exhibits,  307-308 
Growth,  requireme  its  for,  245-246 

Harrowing,  50 

Harvesting,  201-204 

Helianthus,  250 

Helpful  books,  list  of.  525 

Hibiscus,  230 

High-bush  cranberrv,  2^0 

Hoe: 

hand,  26,  81,  82,  83,  64.  1  v..  1  ;> 

wheel,  26,  8^,  84 
Homing,  164,  167 
Hollyhocks,  230 

Home  and  community  work.  2^2 
Home  gardens,  302-303 

score  cards  for  judging,  309 

teachers'  record  of  visits  to,  313 
Honeysuckle,  229 
Horse-drawn     implements,     26,     29, 

83-84,  153,  194 
Horse-radish,  29,  191,  194,  199, 

discussion  of,  192 
Horse-tail,  243 

Hotbed,  62,  112,  117,  120.   138,   140, 
141.  143,  155,  167,  184,  186,  255 

directions  for  making,  59-61 
Hyacinths,  228 
Hydrangea,  230 

Ichneumon  flies,  105,  106 
Individual  exhibits,  308 
Individual  marketing,  206-207 
Indoor  seed  boxes,  77,  112,  117,  120, 

140,  141,  143,  155,  162,  184,  [87, 

189 
Insect    enemies,   56,    13*,    142,    153, 

155,  1.59,  164,  172 
destruction    of,    36,    8^,    105-109, 


15- 

45. 


16,  ill 


28,  131,  133, 


:56,   163,   167,  217.  232 


33° 


THE  INDEX 


discussion  of,  95-98 
of  cabbage,  122-125 
of  beans,  1 50-1 51 
Insect  friends,  105-106 
Iron-weed,  243 
Irrigation : 

over-head  sprinkling,  86,  88-89 
sub-irrigation,  86-87 
trench  system  of,  86,  88 

Japanese  barberry,  230 

Japan  Iris,  230 

Japanese  quince,  231 

Japonica,  231 

Jelly,  score  card  for  judging,  311 

Jelly-making,  250,  259,  275 

discussion  of,  261-263 
Jerusalem  artichoke,  225 
Juneberry,  230 

Kainite,  53 

Kale,  29,  66,  72,  174,  184 

canning,  258 

discussion  of,  1 70-1 71 

harvesting,  201 
Kerosene  emulsion,  97,  116 
Kohl-rabi : 

discussion  of,  176-177 

exhibiting,  307 

storing,  274,  284 

Lace-wing  flies,  105 
Ladybirds,  or  ladybugs,  105 

bean,  150 
Lamb's  lettuce.     See  Corn  salad 
Large  tract  gardens,  297-299 

advantages  of,  300 

disadvantages  of,  301-302 
Larkspur,  229,  230 
Leaf- blight,  167,  220 
Leaf-bugs,  125 
Leaf  crops: 

harvesting,  201-202 

marketing,  208 
Leaf-hoppers,  125 
Leaf-tryer,  167 
Leeks,  189 

discussion  of,  190 

exhibiting,  306 


marketing,  208 

storing,  274-284 
Legumes,  233,  242 
Lesson  assignments,  292 
Lettuce,  28,  29,  32,  33,  59,  62,  66,  72, 
77,  107,  128,  156,  182,  183,  288 

discussion  of,  110-112 

exhibiting,  307 

harvesting,  201 

saving  seed  of,  198,  199 
Lilacs,  224,  230 
Lilies,  228 

Lily-of-the-valley,  230 
Lime,  51,  52,  53,  99,  120,  240 

air-slaked,  51,  123 

burned,  51 

unslaked,  136 
Limestone,  51 
Lizards,  108 
Looper,  122,  123-124,  167 

Marketing,  205-209 

Martynia,  224 

Matrimony  vine,  228 

Measuring  line,  83 

Melon  aphis,  151,  156,  163 

Melons,  32,  34,  43,  66,  72,  162,  199 

discussion  of,  158-160 

exhibiting,  306 

harvesting,  202 

marketing,  208 
Milkweed,  234 
Mites,  95 

Mold,  244,  2 19,  250 
Moles,  90,  91 
Moneywort,  229 
Moonflower,  228 
Morning-glory,  138 
Moss  pink,  229 
Moths,  95 
Mulberry,  107 

Mulching,  195,  196,  210,  215,  217 
Mullein,  104 
Muskmelons,  158-159 
Mustard,  66,  72,  179,  182 

discussion  of,  1 80-1 81 

Narcissi,  228 

New  Zealand  spinach,  184 
discussion  of,  185 


THE  INDEX 


33i 


Nicotine  sulphate,  151,  163,  167 

Nitrate  of  soda,  53,  54,  180 
Nitrogen,  53,  54 

Ohio  Weed  Munual,  243 
Okra,  66,  72,  224 

discussion  of,  177-178 
One-period   cold-pack    canning,    dis- 
cussion of,  252-260 
Onion  maggots,  118 
Onions,  33,  35,  36,  43,  59,  75,   128, 
i8q,  190,  288 

discussion  of,  11 7-1 19 

exhibiting,  306 

harvesting,  204 

marketing,  208 

pickling,  272 

saving  seed  of,  198 

seed,  66,  72 

sets,  66,  72 

storing,  286 

winter,  28,  29 
Onion  smut,  11 7-1 18 
Oriental  poppy,  230 
Ornamental  plants,  224-230 
Ox-eye  daisy,  104,  243 

Packing,  254,  255 

Pansies,  230 

Paris   green,    96,    98,    122,    123-124, 

127,  136,  163,  217 
Parsley,  66,  72,  131,  224 

discussion  of,  186-187 

exhibiting,  306 

storing,  274,  284 
Parsnips,  33,  66,  72,  130,  191,  192,  198 

discussion  of,  128-129 

exhibiting,  306 

storing,  280,  376 
Pea  aphis,  11 5-1 16,  151 
Peas,  28,  29,  33,  107,  234 

canning,  253,  258 

discussion  of,  11 5-1 16 

early  smooth,  66,  72 

exhibiting,  306 

fermenting,  271 

harvesting,  202 

salting,  271 

wrinkled,  66,  72 
Pea  weevil,  11 5-1 16 


Pectin,  261-262 

Peonies,  229,  230 

Pepper  grass.     See  Garden  cress 

Peppers,  66,  72,  77,  275 

canning,  258 

discussion  of,  1 40-1 41 

exhibiting,  306 

harvesting,  204 

pickling,  272 
Perennials : 

flowers,  229-230 

vegetables,  194-197,  *99,  307 

weeds,  104 
Phlox,  229,  230 
Phosphate: 

acid,  54 

rock,  53 
Phosphoric  acid,  55 
Phosphorus,  ^t, 
Pickling,  249,  250,  272-273 
Pigs,  287 

Pigweed,  103,  243 
Pinks,  229 
Pistils,  213,  242 
Plant  diseases,  35,  36,  159,  212 

cause  and  prevention  of,  98 

of  beans,  150 

remedy  for,  99-100,  117-118,  120, 
153,  220 
Plant  food,  elements  of,  53 
Plant  lice,  95,  106,  122,  125,  151 

See  also  Aphis 
Plantain,  243 
Plantbugs,  95 
Planting: 

by  rows,  25-26 

companion  cropping,  32-34 

directions  for,  43-46 

saving  seed  for,  198-200 

succession  cropping,  26-29 
Planting  dates: 

east  of  the  Mississippi,  65-69 

west  of  the  Mississippi,  70-74 
Planting  zones,  65-74 
Plants: 

growth  requirements  of,  245 

studying,  242-246 
Plow,  garden,  81 
Plowing,  50,  153,  232 
Pop  corn,  153-154 


332 


THE  INDEX 


Potash,  240 

muriate  of,  53 

sulphate  of,  53 
Potassium,  53 

Potato  beetle,  Colorado,  96,  105,  136 
Potato  blight,  136 
Potato  blister,  136 
Potato  scab,  35,  136 
Potatoes,  35,  138,  142,  210 

discussion  of,  135-137 

early,  28,  33,  34,  66,  72,  120,  201, 
208 

exhibiting,  307 

storing,  200,  274,  276,  277-278,  280 
Poultry.  225,  287 
Premiums,  308 
Preserves,  score  card  for,  311 
Preserving,  250,  259,  275 

discussion  of,  261-263 
Programs,  308 

Projects  and  Problems,  234-246,  292 
Propagating,  199,  243-244 
Pruning,  217,  219-220 
Publications: 

United  States,  321-323 

State,  324-325 
Pumpkins,  34,  163,  224,  275 

canning,  258 

discussion  of,  164 

marketing,  208 

storing,  274,  286 
Purslane,  103 
Pyrethrum,  97 

Quack  grass,  243 
Quince  bushes,  224 

Rabbits,  90,  287 

Radishes,  28,  29,  32,  33,  59,  66,  72, 
75,  77,  128,  130,  156,  186,  288 

discussion  of,  11 3-1 14 

exhibiting,  306 

harvesting,  202 

saving  seed  of,  198,  199 

storing,  274,  276,  280 
Rag-doll  seed  tester,  57 
Ragweed,  103 
Rake,  83,  84 
Raking,  50 
Raspberries,  29,  210,  234 


canning,  258 

discussion  of,  215-216 

preserving,  261-263 
Records: 

of  home  garden  visited,  313 

of  merit,  312 

of  receipts  and  expenditures,  313 
Red  spiders,  95 
Replanting,  75-76 

Rhubarb,  28,  29,  192,  194,  199,  275, 
288 

discussion  of,  195-197 

exhibiting,  308 

harvesting,  201 

marketing,  208 
Root  cellars,  278 
Root  crops,  287 

exhibiting,  306 

harvesting,  202 

marketing,  208 
Roots: 

propagating  by,  199 

studying,  242 
Rosemallow,  230 
Russian  olive,  230 
Russian  thistle,  243 
Rutabagas: 

discussion  of,  133 

exhibiting,  307 

storing,  274,  276,  280 
Rye,  233 

Sage,  230 

St.  John's  wort,  230 

Salad  vegetables,  180,  225,  306 

See  also  Spring  and  Summer  salads 
Salsify,  66,  72,  75 

discussion  of,  191-192 

exhibiting,  307 
Salting,  249,  250,  275 

discussion  of,  269-273 
Sand  cherry,  230 
Sauerkraut,  269-271 
Sawflies,  95 

Scarlet  runner  bean,  224 
School  exhibits,  307 
School  gardens: 

advantages  of,  294-296 

aims  of,  303 

score  cards  for  judging,  310 


THE  INDEX 


333 


Score  cards,  309-3 1 1 
Sealing,  254,  257 
Seed: 

dissemination  of,  234 

economy  in  use  of,  39-40 

germination  of,  43.  45-46 

purchasing,  37-38 

saving,  for  planting,  198-200 

testing,  56-58,  75,  235-236 
Seed  bed,  62-64 
Shovel,  83,  84,  138,  282 
Shrubbery,  107,  227 
Shrubs,  230 
Siberian  pea  tree,  230 
Sirups,  259 
Skunks,  108 
Small  fruits,  29,  250,  275 

canning,  252-260 

discussion  of,  2 10-2  n 

harvesting  and  marketing,  221-222 

preserving,  261-263 
Smut  boils,  153 
Snakes,  108 
.Snowball,  230 
Snowberry,  230 
Snow-in-summer,  229 
Sowbugs,  95 
Soaps,  97,  116,  125,  151 
Soft-rot,  120 
Soil,  44,  45 

cultivating,  81-83 

preparing,  50-52 

testing,  237-241 

types  of,  21-22 
Solanaceous  crops.  306 
Sorrel,  104 
Sour-dock,  243 
Sow-thistle,  243 
Soy  beans,  233 
Spade,  83,  84,^138,  282 
Spading,  50,  153,  212,  232 
Spanish  needle,  233 
Sparrows,  90,  107 
Spinach,  28,  29,  33,  62,  66,  72,  184, 

158 

canning,  254-255,  258 
discussion  of,  179-180 
drying,  265 
exhibiting,  306 
harvesting,  201 
saving  seed  of,  198 


Spinach  aphis,  125,  151 
Spirea,  230 
Spraying: 

for  insects,  95-98 

for  plant  diseases,  98-100 
Spring  greens,  17Q-181 
Spring  salads,  182-183 
Squash,  66,  72,  164,  224,  275 

canning,  258 

discussion  of,  1 61-163 

exhibiting,  307 

harvesting,  202 

marketing,  208 

saving  seed  of,  198 

storing,  274,  286 
Squash  bug,  97,  163 
Stable  manure,  53,  54,  60,  62,  63,  [94, 
195,  210,  212,  217,  232,  281,  282 
Stamens,  213,  242 
State  exhibits,  308 
State  Experiment  Stations,  addresses 

of,  321 
State  Publications,  list  of,  324-325 
Stem  crops,  208 
Sterilizing,  254,  255,  257,  259 
Storage: 

in  cellars,  276-279,  284 

in  cold  frames,  284-285 

in  cool  and  warm  rooms,  286 

in  pits,  280-283 
Storage  pit,  167,  175,  191,  250,  274, 

280-283 
Storage  plans,  274-275 
Strawberries,  29,  210,  215,  233 

blossom  of,  242 

canning,  258 

discussion  of,  212-213 

preserving,  261-263 

propagating,  244-245 
.Strawberry  tree,  230 
String  beans, 

canning,  25<S 

drying,  265 

fermenting,  269,  271 

salting,  271 
Study  outline,  291 
Sugar  pea,  224 
Sulphate  of  ammonia,  53,  54 
Summer  greens,  184-185 
.Summer  salads,  186-188 
Sunflowers,  225 


334 


THE  INDEX 


Sweet  corn,  29,  33,  34,  35,  36,  65,  66, 
72,  164 

discussion  of,  152-154 

drying,  265 

early,  28,  29 

exhibiting,  306 

harvesting,  203-204 

marketing,  208 

saving  seed  of,  198,  200 
Sweet  potatoes,  66,  72,  163,  275 

canning,  258 

discussion  of,  138-139 

harvesting,  201 

storing,  274,  286 
Sweet  William,  230 
Swiss  chard, 

canning,  258 

discussion  of,  184 

harvesting,  201 
Syringa,  230 
Syrphus  flies,  105 

Tachina  flies.  105 
Tarnished  plant-bug,  167 
Thinning  plants,  75-76 
Thistle,  234 

bull,  104 

Canada,  104 
Thomas  slag,  53 
Thrips,  95,  125 
Tillage,  81-83 
Tin  cans, 

for  irrigating,  86 

for  protecting  plants,  91,  101 

for  spraying,  98 
Tip  layering,  243 
Toads,  106 
Tobacco,  116,  123 
Tomatoes,  26,  33,  226,  275 

canning,  258 

discussion  of,  143-146 

drying,  265 

exhibiting,  306 

fermenting,  271 

harvesting,  203 

pickling,  272 

plants  of,  66,  72,  77 

saving  seed  of,  198,  199 
Tomato  worms,  96,  145 
Tools,  26,  233 


Trailing  myrtle,  229 
Transplanting,  77-80 
Trench  irrigation,  86,  88 
Trowel,  83,  84 
Trumpet  flower,  229 
Tuber  crops,  306 
'Tulips,  228 
Turnip  aphis,  125,  151 
Turnips,  28,  29,  32,  34,  66,  72,  75,  120, 

121,   176 

discussion  of,  132-133 
exhibiting,  307 
fermenting,  269,  271 
harvesting,  202 
saving  seed  of,  198 
storing,  274,  276,  280 

Upland  Cress,  186 
discussion  of,  187 

Vacant  lot  gardens,  300-301 

score  card  for,  311 
Variegated  kale,  224 
Vegetable  Crops      wSee  Garden  Crops. 
Vegetable  marrow,  discussion  of,  163 
Vegetable  oyster.     See  Salsify 
Vegetables,  250-251 

canning,  252-260 

composition  of,  321 

drying,  264-265 

fermenting  and  salting,  269-272 

pickling,  272-273 

saving  by-products  of,  287-289 

storing,  274-286 
Vetches,  242 
Viburnum,  230 
Vine  crops,  198,  307 

harvesting,  202 

marketing,  207,  208 
Vine  layering,  243 
Vines,  227,  228-229 

moon,  228 
Virginia  creeper,  229 

Wahoo,  230 

Warm  Rooms,  storage  in,  274,  286 

Wasps,  105 

Water: 

capillary,  or  film,  47 

gravitational,  47 
Watering,  86-89 


jfcQretJT  UBMABS 


